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Subaru Outback/Legacy Towing Questions
paulotterstedt
Member Posts: 9
Does anyone know if the Spec B can tow? I thought I read somewhere that it was discouraged due to Aluminum suspension components
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Comments
Bob
-Brian
IMO the Outback is much better suited for towing.
Bob
-mike
Of course we only get the H6 with an auto, so I'd still recommend an OB with that engine.
I have not needed to pull anyone from a ditch with it yet, but I expect it will be a real chore to do so compared to the AT. Granted, that is not towing, but it can be similar from a stop depending on weights, grades, etc.
All things to think about, but if towing is infrequent at best, it is probably more important just to know if it can tow and go with the preferred transmission for that 99% driving!
Neither my '97 Outback Limited nor my '99 Quest have a hitch. So that's the issue. Which one (or neither and just rent a truck).
I have a load of boxes to move for a 1,000 plus miles and I'm thinking a 4x8 U-Haul. If I can keep the load under 1,000 pounds, then trailer brakes wouldn't be an issue, but the trailer weighs 850 pounds and the boxes will probably come in around 500 pounds.
I'd rather put the hitch on the Outback but towing is limited to 2,000 pounds max (1,000 without brakes).
The Quest tows 3,500 pounds, but again, 1,000 without brakes. Maybe that's worthwhile to do though just for the extra margin I may be getting?
Both are automatics and I'm not excited about adding a transmission cooler on for the limited use I plan to do.
There's a Hidden Hitch available (seems like Fibber and Lilengineerboy have these?) but U-Haul may be quick and easy for similar pricing. Maybe my mechanic will have something lying around too; have to check with him.
Thanks for any comments.
Steve, visiting host
If you are considering DIY installation, I highly recommend Curt Manufacturing for trailer hitches - they make a very nice product! I do not think a class-3 unit is available for your Outback due to the location of the muffler, but class-2 is widely available. The Curt unit is #12270, and is available from Amazon for about $157.00. The wiring will run you another $35.00-$40, and is most likely available for that price both online and locally.
For your Quest, it is the same story, except that there are class-3 models available from Draw-Tite and Hidden Hitch; if you think you might use it for other things such as a cargo tray, a class-3 is the only way to go! The Curt unit (class -2) is #12105 and Amazon has it for about $168. E-trailer.com has the class-3 units I mentioned above and also has good pricing with great service!
As for the trailer brakes, you're skirting the edge of the "no-brainer" comfort zone. If I was towing regularly with that weight using the Outback, I would probably invest in the brake controller (assuming my trailer had brakes on it - many that small do not). For just a one-time use, there's no way I would bother. At that weight, it all comes down to your comfort/familiarity with pulling trailers as you can get yourself into trouble if you do not know what you are doing. I have pulled a lot of trailers and am very comfortable with them, so I just want to offer a balanced opinion.
Bob
The Quest is a 170 hp 6 cylinder, and yeah, was looking at the enclosed box.
U-Haul didn't say anything about surge brakes, so I assume that's not available.
Oh, and it looks like the boxes are already pushing 800 pounds, so figure another 15% on top of that.
I had a utility trailer back in the mid-70s in my Jeep CJ days, and I didn't enjoy pulling it around. Imagine the fun of trying to back that thing up with a short wheel base Jeep.
So ... how about flat towing an Outback AT? Possible? Hmm, not recommended in the manual.
Not for any real distance! Maybe a few miles, at most. You could put the front end on a car dolly and disconnect the rear drive shaft, but otherwise I would put it on a car hauler.
Are you folks moving south?
That was the method we used when my sister got her first apartment back in the 80s... drove her stuff from NJ to Ohio (she went to college at OSU, and decided to move there permanently), plus, we were able to use the van to move her roommate's stuff as well as avoid delivery charges picking up some larger items from the store while we were out there. Then Dad and I went back to NJ with the empty van.
You'd probably be able to rent the van cheaper than the U-haul trailer and all the hitch work.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Naturally he's about as far north as you Wes. :P
I'm sort of thinking a small container may be easier. Gotta get some quotes.
It might be worth checking out some removalists in your area and where you are going. We just had to move 15m3 of books from my father in law's former home to our carport so that we can finish sorting them. I had intended to do it by trailer or hire a truck but checked out and found a removalist who typically carries new furniture from near my home to near my father in law's old place. They were happy to get a back load and only charged a fraction of the cost that I would have incurred with the truck. I reckon it was a bout 30% of the likely cost.
The only real problem was that they were too efficient. The boxes were delivered next day! A mad scrabble to get tarpaulins fixed over them because we then had wild weather. Now we are working through sorting all of the goods.
Cheers
Graham
Got a quote from a "mover", partial trailer load, door to door, for US $900. $600 to the terminal, but that's a good ways away. Not sure how to find a backhaul but that would be good.
Haven't gotten a quote yet, but the container services are attractive since you don't have to do a mad scramble. If the three days to unload it they give you at the destination aren't enough, you can pay to store it. That would also be the advantage of owning a trailer; no hurry to unpack it.