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Chevy Tahoe



  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    Now that is a good way to thank those here that made an initial effort to help you. Maybe your attitude towards the dealer is part of the problem.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    You people who suggest going to another dealer are in LA-LA land. Wake up and enter the real world!!! The other dealer says that I should have bought the vehicle there, however, because they are required to repair vehicles purchased elsewhere, maybe if I left it they would look at it when they were done servicing their own vehicles AND they felt like it...maybe august 2006...if lucky. The dealers can get away with this nonsense because GM allows them too. As I said any calls and E-mails to GM customer service gets a form letter telling how sorry they are about the problems and a referral back to the dealer. Worthless!!!! They have taken minor, inexpensive problems and lost a customer for life. Actually many customers as I know many people who have experienced the same things as me and say the same. The dolt who suggested getting an attorney is silly. cost of the attorney is more than the repairs and still wouldn't engender thoughts of buying another GM product.

    I've been called lots of things, but never a dolt! If you wish to not take the advice, that is your choice.

    Good luck and have a wonderful day.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Is it possible that every person in your area is rude and obnoxious? If so the answer to your problem is- Live with it.

    If a customer were to present themselves to a repair facility and use sophisticated words such as dolt, la-la land, and silly, I can understand why they could care less if said customer were to fall off the face of the earth. They're probably taking bets on something to do with Darwin.

    I would think an obviously sophisticated person such as yourself would be able to convince these dealerships to take care of your vehicle in quick order. I have never had a problem getting warranty work done to any vehicle regardless of the dealer it was taken to. I have family that owned a large network of dealerships and there is no incentive to NOT do warranty work for a customer regardless of where they bought the vehicle. Sounds like something else is going on here.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    I bought my truck 3 hrs away from me. Am I expected to travel that distance to have warranty work done? I take it to a local dealer and have never had any problems. They are great. We take my moms blazer there also (which we bought elsewhere).

    Cant help it there sales staff is bad
  • stump21stump21 Posts: 41
    Story sounds real fishy to me. My dealer replaces stuff without question. I just had my rear hatch struts replaced because IMO they didn't go up like they should. They never said a word and got me two new ones. C'mon man, save the hate for another web site.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    I also have had no problems getting warranty work done at my local dealership, regardless of the fact that I bought my Tahoe somewhere else (and believe me, I have had to have a lot of warranty work!!). In fact, one GM dealer in town agreed to do warranty work (an oil consumption test) even though they don't sell Chevrolets.
  • Does anyone know if 17 inch wheels are an option for 2004 without getting the Denali or Z-71? Also, any idea what the new color silver birch is suppose to look like?
  • mfullmermfullmer Posts: 819
    ...or just isn't being straight.

    First of all, at 10k, 18k, 35,999k (It's obviously under 3 years old.) the vehicle isn't under an Extended Warranty. The standard, bumper-to-bumper warranty is in effect.

    I did have a problem once with an Olds that couldn't be resolved at the service department. I contacted Olds customer service and they actually put me on a three way call with ANOTHER dealer who took care of everything.

    It doesn't matter where you bought the vehicle. As long as you are taking Chevy to Chevy, they are obligated (and,usually, more than happy to fix the warranty claim.). Although I've had them need to duplicate the problem before fixing it, I've never had anyone tell me it must get worse before it is fixed. That would be obsurd.

    I think you're right, another GM hater, obviously.
  • mfullmermfullmer Posts: 819
    According to his posts on the Kia board, he owns a 2002 Trailblazer.

    Me thinks me smells a troll.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    "First of all, at 10k, 18k, 35,999k (It's obviously under 3 years old.) the vehicle isn't under an Extended Warranty. The standard, bumper-to-bumper warranty is in effect."

    The extended warranty offered by General Motors under the GMPP runs concurrently with the factory warranty. While it may not make much sense...that's how it is.
  • dwsiisdwsiis Posts: 16
    I do indeed also own a Trailblazer.....AND???
  • bhobho Posts: 4
    My local dealer only has Tahoe's with the 4.10 rear, none of the 3.73 rears. I have a 99 GMC 5.3/3.73 pickup that gets between 14 and 18 mpg. The dealer is trying to tell me I won't notice any difference in gas mileage with the 4.10 rear but I don't believe it. Anybody out there have a 4.10 rear with the 5.3 engine and what kind of gas mileage do you get?
  • yukon97yukon97 Posts: 30
    Taking all things into account, the 4.10 and the 3.73 get roughly the same gas mileage. Traveling at 65 mph, the 3.73 turns about 2000 rpm, while the 4.10 runs about 2100 rpm. There really is no reason to buy a 3.73. Especially if you live in hilly terrain, the 4.10 setup will not have to work as hard to haul the heavy Tahoe. I have actually heard cases where the 3.73s got worse gas mileage.

    Here are some quotes from a very knowledgeable source:

    "If you calculate it out, with the same tires, a 4.10 will run about 150-200 RPM higher at 65 than a 3.73 providing that the lockup calibration in the PCM for the torque converter are the same...
    "Since the 5.3 is not a stump puller especially in the 4x4 Tahoe (Av), I would opt for the 4.10 no question... There is one benefit to the 3.73 in the Tahoe (Av); it's a "stronger" gear-set than a 4.10 especially in the 8.625 (1500) Rear ... The ring gear is more robust due to the lower ratio...

    "So, I conclude, if you live in Nebraska and drive flatlands, the 3.73 theoretically should give you a tad more MPG, but it will not be significant... The benefits of the 4.10 in a heavy Tahoe with the little 5.3 are overwhelming...
  • bhobho Posts: 4
    That's about the same thing my dealer said. He said that because we live in the mountainous area of New Mexico that's why he get's them with 4.10's.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I compared the 3.73 to the 4.10 when I purchased. I noticed a mid acceleration lag with the 3.73 that was not present with the 4.10. I think there may be a slight mileage difference, but it will br minimal. I also think that you will have fewer transmission downshifts with the 4.10 which should improve transmission life.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    I have the 3.73 and live in Wyoming where there are lots of hills. My transmission is constantly shifting between 3rd and overdrive. Maybe a 4.10 rear end would have been a better choice!

    In any event, does the fuel economy difference between the 3.73 and the 4.1 get wider when you are traveling at higher speeds? I usually travel on the wide open interstate where there is not much traffic - usually around 80 mph. Is the 200 RPM difference at those speeds more significant?
  • yukon97yukon97 Posts: 30
    I personally believe that even around 80 mph you are not going to see much, if any, diffrence in the MPG. If your tranny is switching between 3rd and OD frequently and a 4.10 did not you would see much better MPG with the 4.10.

    I have a 3.73 and wish I had the 4.10. I always feel the torque converter locking in and out when in OD, traveling through hilly terrain. Unfortunately, it is around $2000 to do the switch on a 4x4.
  • I suppose it's obvious, but maybe not. Dealers love warranty work. Why? They get paid for it! And getting paid is why they are in business. Warranty work is great: no hassles, no stop payment on the check, no better business bureau complaints, a chance to make friends and sell unrelated service or products (e.g, tires) or even another car, etc. etc. In fact, for some dealers (and unfortunately for some car lines) warranty work is probably the number one acivity in their shop. What do you think goes on all day long in a Land Rover dealers shop? Warranty work is one way to recoup the thin margin that the new car was sold for. (Quick: how could any business survive on a steady diet of transactions that were based on Dealer Invoice plus $200 and a hold back of say 3% to follow?). Why would any rational business person not want to perform work for which payment was guaranteed by a third party?

    In fact, DWIIS could probably have dealers lined up to COMPETE for his warranty work if he would lighten up!
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    (Quick: how could any business survive on a steady diet of transactions that were based on Dealer Invoice plus $200 and a hold back of say 3% to follow?).

    Which is exactly why I think we're not getting the "TRUE" invoice (i.e. dealer cost) of the vehicle. I could be wrong, or even a "dolt" as described by dwiis, but who really knows?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    (Quick: how could any business survive on a steady diet of transactions that were based on Dealer Invoice plus $200 and a hold back of say 3% to follow?).

    Used car sales and service work. Plus the "dolt" that pays way more than the informed shopper. Happens more often than you can imagine, but either way there's good money in used vehicles.

    Dealerships will typically do warranty work without complaint, but this isn't a huge profit business. Warranty rates aren't typically as high plus they're only paid for a very tight labor rate. If a dealer had to pick between warranty work and customer pay, the customer pay is almost always better. But, if you can get a "dolt" to pay for service that the warranty would have covered (or might even be billed for seperately, ha ha!) it's a great situation! These are called crooks, but they do exist and some folks do patronize them for some reason.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    off extended warranties, and finance and insurance kickbacks (er commisions?).
  • Yes, Davids1, Sebring95, and Txyank1 are right. Dealers don't live off warranty nor off the "invoice plus $200 plus the holdback" deals we hear about. When you read the industry trade mags, every department in a dealership is considered a profit center and each department's contribution is measured. Many other departments such as F & I ("Finance and Insurance" which includes extended warrantys, GAP insurance, disability insurance, rust proofing, etc. etc.) earn a higher profit than new car sales. (I'll bet that a lot of these "invoice plus $200 sales" that people think they got, really become home runs after the buyer gets through with the F & I guy.)

    I've always wondered if the new car showroom wasn't there just to generate the down the line revenues in F & I, parts, service, the body shop , and used cars. Kind of like the razor and the razor blade idea: sell the razor at "cost" (however measured) to build the population of razors out there and then cream them on replacement blades.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    "I've always wondered if the new car showroom wasn't there just to generate the down the line revenues in F & I, parts, service, the body shop , and used cars. Kind of like the razor and the razor blade idea: sell the razor at "cost" (however measured) to build the population of razors out there and then cream them on replacement blades. "
    The ink cartridges cost more than the printers!
  • Ok, I hope you all can bear with me on this question. My boss has a 2003 Tahoe. She was just asking me about a loud noise her vehicle makes about every 5th time you get in and drive off. She said there is a loud clicking noise coming from the right front. She thought the wheel was going to fall off or something. No vibrations but its loud enough for people on the sidewalk to hear and they seem to be concerned. She said the transmission has been doing odd things to. I know this is not much info but if anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears.

  • gmfan007gmfan007 Posts: 77
    This sounds like a tuff one. If it happens sporadically, it will be hard to demo it for the dealer. You didn't mention if it is a 2, 4 or all wheel drive. If it is 4 wheel drive, I assume she is keeping it in 2 Hi except on snow or ice. Maybe a front hub or axle needs lube. A transmission "doing odd things" doesn't tell us much. I am no mechanic, but I think I would get it to the dealer ASAP. It sounds serious, or potentially so.
  • yukon97yukon97 Posts: 30
    If the noise only happens at startup, and lasts for maybe 30 seconds, and soundsl ike it is coming from the engine, it is most likely the dreaded GM piston slap. Unfortunately, there is no known fix at this time, as GM puts it. This is a common occurance with the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0s. If it sounds like a diesel right at startup then this is most likely the issue. And when it does happen, it can be very loud. GM says it does not affect the performance or the life of the engine. But in the consumer world, it really affects the resale of the truck.

    Also, Tahoe's do not come in all wheel drive, just the Yukons and Escalades...
  • chile96chile96 Posts: 330
    Hi all. I currently own a 99 yukon and am looking for a replacement but was only considering luxury, i.e. german, until I saw the weekend paper. I was reading several dealers quoting anywhere from 9-10.5K off MSRP(including 3K cash back of course!) for models w/ MSRP roughly in mid to high 30K's. I don't really want to call/visit a dealer to inquire and have to deal w/ unrelenting sales calls so I thought I'd gather info here. Can I expect these same discounts for the 4WD LT's that have MSRP well into the 40K's? Also, should I even go for more money off than they are quoting? BTW, I'm in Houston.

    Thanks for the help
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    dealers in your city and state. Check GM Buypower and get a VIN number for a vehicle you have in mind and ask them what their delivered price is. Also, ask them to give you a guess on the value of your trade. I find that most dealers have internet/fleet salesmen who are used to doing this, and usually will email rather than call you. Once you have a list of dealers and prices you can play one dealer off against the other. One tip, don't make the actual purchase until the last few days of the month - dealers want to improve their monthly sales figures so you should get a better price then. You can get the big discounts you see, just compare the amount of money offered for your trade, if you have one. Good luck.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Are you talking German cars or SUV's? If you don't need a big ute then by all means who cares if the prices are good, get a nice luxo car. I have both (audi A6 and a Tahoe) and I can't fathom picking a full-size ute over a German car if I didn't have a use for it. If you're springing for a german ute (M or G class are about the only choices) I'd probably go for a Tahoe/Yukon over them. M-class does nothing for me, and G-class is a bit overboard.

    As for price, you should be able to get a good deal on anything right now. Rebates/incentives are nice but they just kill the resale value right off the start.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    You could look at the Denali, Escalade, or Navigator if you are looking for luxury. The are all offering very good incentives.
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