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Chevy Tahoe



  • Hi- I would appreciate some feedback as our A/c recently quit. How to troubleshoot this?
    1)I did test (low pres side)and there is some pressure still in the lines.
    2)The compressor will not engage on its own. I did cycle it through a test (hot-wired)
    Help? next step?
  • Your comment " There is still some pressure in the lines" is important. Most systems have a low pressure cut-out switch. This is intended to block compressor operation without the proper amount of charge being present. The refrigerant is also the lubricant which prevents high wear and tear.
    In my humble opinion someone must check connections and such for leaks, repair leaks, pull a vacuum on the system to check for leaks and remove moisture, repressurise system, and again check for leaks and correct temperature pull-down.
  • You are describing the Intemittent Half Shalf re-lube job. I actually just picket mine up from the dealer last night for the same problem. This is the second time I have had it done. About 4 months ago I went through some high water and think it may have washed out the lubricant. Talk with your dealer, it takes them no longer than an hour to replace and it is covered under warranty.

  • Would someone please post a link or send me the TSB regarding this in an email?

  • took it in for an oil change and my every-six-month steering lube. Took about 90 minutes. This is my third time in 17k miles. Every 10k miles would probably do it for most people but I'm kinda c/o about my cars. Even though I find it pretty crazy GM can't design a steering system for this car that doesn't need a "lube job" every 10k miles, it doesn't take long to fix and it feels kinda like a new car each time I have it done. It's worth an hour and a half.
  • Hi all,

    Anyone got a service manual for an 02 Tahoe? I'm looking for the pinout for the connector that goes to the separate tape deck in the center console. I'm interested in patching into the line level signals that run from the tape to the head unit. Yes, I know about the boxes from PIE and PAC. I don't care about retaining use of the tape deck. I just want to substitute my own line level signal (from mp3 player) instead of the tape deck's.

    Please post or email me at

    Thanks! Any help greatly appreciated!
  • why Edmunds shows a $1500, $1000, and $750 rebate on the '04 Tahoe? Is it regional or what?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Our incentives page loads data depending on what zipcodes you enter.

    My zip shows a $1500 and a $750 incentive - the $750 one is only for active military. I don't have the $1,000 one here. You can check the fine print under each incentive for the various restrictions

    Steve, Host
  • Just curious to know if any of you have tried this kit out.

    I am thinking about it and it seems fairly easy to install.

    I am not sure if it will void the warranty.
  • We bought our 2000 Tahoe in early 2002. The warranty ran out in May of this year. The Tahoe currently has about 38k miles and has been a pleasure to own thus far.

    However (you knew it was coming) for the past month, I've noticed that acceleration is very very sluggish. Once it's it second gear however the it feels fine. Just initially, it's awful and I feel I can run faster. It never had awesome pickup, but it was never this sluggish. Yet another problem is that the 'Service Engine Soon' light has been on. We brought it into the dealer but just to look at it was $179 and we simply cannot afford that. We're going to have our friend who owns his garage check it out, but do any of these problems sound familiar?

    The dashboard lights also aren't coming on - half the time I'm not sure how much gas is in the car or how fast I'm going. A part of it may be due to the remote start my husband had put on it. If so, we're going to take it off permanently. But can the remote start be a factor in all of the problems? Our friend thinks that it may need a new ignition switch. I'm taking it to the alarm place tomorrow to see if it's wired properly.

    Looking for any advice/suggestions.
  • Sounds like it's time for a throttle body/Fuel Injectors cleaning to me. Symptoms sound exactly like what occurred with my wife's Grand Am at 32,000 miles (Out of warranty/went past 3 year point 2 months ago). Check Engine Light code (P0300) is "misfire on cold start" but was kind of like you described, sluggish until speed picks up and engine warms up. The cleaning did the trick. GM (Pontiac) dealer charged me $93.39 which included diagnostic. I think they felt sorry for us as we just passed the warranty time limit. I've got 12,000 miles on our 2002 Tahoe and will start adding Fuel Injector cleaner after every 4 or 5 fill-ups from now on.
  • I believe Autozone will read the code for free. I am sure the sluggishness and check engine are related. I am sure an independent mechanic will be less than the dealer.
  • ryeung-

    If you get an answer to this, can you let me know. I am interested in doing the same thing.
  • If a lot of you do in-town or back road country driving, the injectors and plenum housing will become dirty much faster than usual.

    Occassionaly, maybe once or twice a month, take your vehicle out on the highway for a drive.

    Maintain a high speed of 65+ for at least 10 miles. This will help keep the injectors clean and blow out any excess carbon in the system.

    High octane fuel really does not help in keeping the system any cleaner than 87 regular does. Actually, high octane may cause a hard start condition if used to often in an engine that does not require it.
  • Any predictions on rebate raises for 2004? Also, any thoughts or insight on an extension of the military $750 rebate? The other thing that makes me wonder in my search for a 2004 Z71, Black with neutral leather is that every Tahoe in the state right now has a pewter interior, shortage of tan cows???
  • We took the truck a friend who ran the codes - they all appear to be electrical. His guess is the problems are due to the remote start and Viper alarm. We are now considering having them both taken off, at the very minimum the remote start as that seems to be causing the most problems. I wonder, though, if the security alarm place we went to just did a hack job. I also took it there today and they said it looks good. Another car alarm place said they would look at it, and that maybe a module is bad. What a nightmare this all is.

    Anyone out there have an aftermarket car alarm and not have problems?
  • I got a Audiovox Prestige car alarm in my '03 Suburban , no problems.I had another audiovox in my '00 Yukon XL without any problems.The delaers love blaming problems on aftermarket accesories.I did have a Clifford alarm put into my '96 explorer and it screwed up everything, turns out they weren't compatible with each other. to save yourself some money call up 2 or 3 alarm places that install Vipers and ask them if they've had problems with '00 Tahoes and Viper alarms, they should remember if they did.
  • Hi everyone,
    Thanks in advance for any suggestions you might have. I own a 1997 GMC Yukon 90K miles. 2 weeks ago the fan controls on my heater began working backwards. i.e. the fan would blow hard in the "off" position and would not blow at all on the "Hi" position. A/c and heat controls work just fine. A week or so later the wipers would stop working only to come on again in 10 or so minutes. Last night as I drove, the dome lights would turn on and off in rapid succession for a minute or two. I could hear something under the dash clicking on and off with the light. This would happen every 5 minutes or so during my entire drive. This problem seems to be progressing and I would welcome any suggestions as to where to start.
  • This is endemic to Tahoes. Problem is solder fatigue on wiper module board located inside wiper motor housing - motor housing is attached to firewall on driver's side. Very easy fix. Board costs approx $50 at dealership. Remove cover to motor housing, replace board and enjoy your Tahoe.
  • Bought a loaded '03 Tahoe less than a month ago. It has the memory for the seats, etc. that is supposed to be recognized when I put the key in (this is the way I have it programmed). For some reason when I put the key in after my wife has driven the car, it wont adjust the car to my settings (driver 2). It says "Driver 1" when I put the "Driver 2" key in. Is something wrong?
  • You may have to press the unlock button on the keyfob for this to work properly. The keys are not encoded, so this is the only way I can think of that it knows which person is driving...
  • Have an '03 Suburban w/memory seats and they change each time one of the keys is in the ignition.

    The keys are encoded for drivers 1 & 2.

    I would try to reset the memory of the seat positions by saving your seat adjustments while using the respective keys in the ignition.

    Lobenza is correct by saying that unlocking the vehicle with the other key fob will change the driver of the vehicle.

    If you unlock the vehicle via the remote with key #2 but put key #1 in the ignition, the settings will remain for #2 because that key activated the vehicle.

    You would have to re lock the vehicle with #1 and then unlock it to have the proper settings for driver #1.
  • Just wanted to add my $.02. The memory settings are based on which remote transmitter unlocked the door. If my wife has previously driven the Tahoe and the door is not locked I have to lock and unlock with the transmitter, or I can press the #2 memory button on the door. By the way, is it universal that the husband is always #2?
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    Purchased a 2003 used tahoe last night.
    LS with towing package, 5.3, 3rd row, Bose speakers, and probably more. Bought it used with 10k on it. Kids love it. My 6year old can even move the second row to get into the back. Big lift gate actually is easyier to lift/close that the trailblazer. Takes up only slightly more room in the garage than the Plymouth Grand Voy. that we traded in.

    Only negative is that my wife will drive it more than me.

  • Thanks. My wife is the normal driver and I usually get in it when it is in the garage, so I don't use the transmitter. If this is true, the keys must not be encoded. What confused me is the setting that allows the car to change the settings when the key is put in the ignition. I guess this doesn't mean that the car recognizes which key is put in, rather it just waits to change the settings for the respective transmitter until the key is put in. Does that seem right?
  • It actually changes the settings when you press the transmitter. You can't, of course, tell that it has been changed until you put the key in and the message appears in the information center. If you swap keys with your wife (not the transmitter, just the key), it will still work the same, i.e. you will still be driver 2. You'll also notice that the transmitters have either a 1 or a 2 on the back of them.
  • Just received word that I was awarded a buyback from GM for the above-noted vehicle. If anyone wants details, email me
  • Just curious. What did you have to pay? I'm wondering how the rebates are affecting resale. I would think you'd wanna pay considerably less than same/same with no miles.
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    Paid 28K. It would have been about $32k invoice and after rebates. So I saved $4k for the miles on it and still have 2years of warranty left.

  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    Is anyone using seat covers to protect from dirt and wear? If so what kind/brand? With GM having the seatbelt in the seat I was wondering how that works with seat covers.

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