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Chevy Tahoe



  • Thanks for the help guys! I have always gone by the placard plus about 5# for good measure (checked only when cold and out of the sun). Having ridden a bicycle with low tires, I feel for the engine and try to stay on top of tire pressures.
  • capriracercapriracer Somewhere in the USPosts: 854
    When you use the same size, use the same inflation pressure.

    If you change sizes, you need to recalucate using a load table for both the old size and the new size. I have these tables and will assist anyone who needs helps.

    BTW if you need a technical explanation of why this is so or why the tire store guy is wrong -

      Just visit the "Tires, Tires, Tires" forum.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Here it is! Tires, tires, tires

    tidester, host
  • eman5eman5 Posts: 110
    So the service guy first told my wife there was no leak, at least not that his personnel could reproduce. Fortuitously, they had it parked outside when another southeast Texas deluge hit, and... Oh yeah, it's got a leak after all, a bona fide biblical flood, "coming from the windshield." THE WINDSHIELD!!! That line again? [As my old surgery professor was wont to say, "Either you're stupid, you just don't care, or you're trying to piss me off--now which is it?" Clearly, all three options applied here.]

    So my wife showed them your post, jay 24--thanks so much!--and they then "re-set and re-sealed the sunroof where it was leaking," where they "could see where it was tracking down both sides" so that it'd pour out the passenger visor mount and the parking brake area. We can only hope they're telling us the truth, that the leak's fixed (this time). Keep your fingers crossed for us, and we'll post again after the next rain or car wash.
  • aa555zzaa555zz Posts: 55
    This web page explains the cold start knock. The noise is caused by piston slap.

    There are tons of web pages that talk about this subject. Just search the internet for, "gm piston slap"
  • aa555zzaa555zz Posts: 55
    I have a 2002 Tahoe. Has anyone replaced the self-leveling rear shocks? Did the rear ride height change as a result?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Just so we're on the same page, we're NOT discussing the autoride suspension, just the base suspension with self-leveling in the rear.

    This is the system I have on my Tahoe and I have a set of Bilstein HD shocks and new rear springs sitting in the garage awaiting my install. I spoke extensively with an engineer at Bilstein concerning this swap and he'd personally dealt with a couple Tahoe/Susburban swap-outs. He felt (as do I) that the factory nivomat shocks are junk after a short period of use. Mine started to really loosen up around 10k miles. A lot of folks might not notice, but I'm quite in-tune with my vehicles.

    In short, you need to replace the rear springs to correct the height change that will occur by removing those factory nivomats. You can install an airbag system if you need the leveling function, because you're obviously losing out on the self-leveling feature of the nivomats. An alternative to airbags is installing the Bilstein Suburban HD springs, which will not "squat" nealy as much as the Tahoe springs. Flip side is, that will make your Tahoe ride rough. I prefer the airbag system myself.

    There are some other brands of shocks out there that have applications for our trucks, but Bilsteins are the best IMHO. I generally swap out suspensions very early on with every car I own. Most people would be quite surprised with how worn a factory suspension can be at such low miles. They don't notice it because the vehicle slowly changes, but it happens. I've pulled shocks at 20k miles that had half the force/rebound for which they were spec'd when new.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    Thanks for the post. I feel better, now. Love my Tahoe in spite of cold start piston slap.
  • in addition to my XM no signal and loud exhaust ping on cooldown, i noticed this weekend that if my a/c is on and blowing through the dash vents, if i turn it off/on it is now blowing at my feet. this can't be normal.
  • gtlaxgtlax Posts: 2
    Just bought an 03 with captains chairs in the back. Any suggestions on what can be put between the two seats? Console of some sort...
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    why GM bothers to make the 4.8. In theory the smaller engine with considerably less torque and slightly less HP ought to (1) get better milage or (2) post better milage on the sticker to help GM's overall fuel averages. I see way more 4.8's on the lots lately but the sticker posts the same milage numbers as the 5.3. Can't see why you'd opt for the smaller less powerful engine with no advantage other than the tiny difference in price.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    of $700 between the 5.3 and the 4.8. I would guess that GM doesn't think the price difference is tiny since they do offer it.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    the 4.8 does get slightly better mileage on the highway.
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    How accurate are the gas gauges supposed to be?
    Our 2003 Tahoe drops to 1/3 (2/3 full) within about 55 miles. At just under a half a tank the odometer will have about 220 miles...

    We have been getting about 17.5mpg

    Obviously the gauge drops a bit too fast at first...

  • mine does the same.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    with many diff. vehicles that if I really pack it full and squeeze in every drop I can it goes forever before it even starts to drop. BUT, if you stop when it automatically shuts off, the gauge drops a whole faster. Stands to reason 'cause it just isn't as full to begin with.
  • I am looking at buying a new Tahoe or Yukon with the Z71 package but in both cases you can order only blackwall tires with the 17 inch rims, unacceptable. Has anybody else dealt with swapping for some nice tires with outline white letters?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    I think those same 17" Goodyears can be bought in both blackwall or OWL. GM only installs the blackwall versions from the factory. I'd bet you could make arrangements with a Goodyear dealer to swap the factory blackwalls for the OWL versions for not too much money. I've had dealers swap tires for me before the sale as well.
  • rugetirugeti Posts: 54
    I got into a friend's Yukon that might be two years old, at most. The leather seats were all deformed and looked like mush. Now, I'm noticing that the seats in our two-month old Tahoe are starting to show minor signs of wear already. Has anyone else had a similar experience. What's the deal?
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    GM has offered a componet letter for the engines with CSK that extends the warranty for 6 years and 75K miles. The knock has to be verified by a dealer and put in the system. Upon asking for the letter, it was forthcoming in about a month.

    '01 Suburban K2500HD (6.0 liter)
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    Do you know whether the extended warranty is only available on the 6.0 liter engines or is it also available on the 5.3 liters?
  • Ok guys, brand new here. Just purchased a 2004 Tahoe LT, full time 4X4, DVD player, the works. What are the best mud flaps for this thing? I do have running boards but think I also want flaps for the front along with the rear. The Chevy dealer said the flat ones were the only ones that would fit the front because of the boards. Any other ideas would be appreciated.
  • Here is the scoop on CSK. The main problem, as you may know, is that these pistons are not as tall as they could be but that is done to reduce weight. The result is a rocking of the piston in the bore untill things warm up and expand to the designed size. Ford first began having problems with this and scuffing on the skirts 10 years ago. They came to us with this problem and we developed a "solid film lubricant" coating that solved the problem and has been in production on all Ford V-8 and V-10 engines along with selected V-6 engines for more than 9 years now. We finally got the GM business last year and all of the V-8 engines now have coated skirts since about 10 months ago. GM is well satisfied with the results. No, this coating does not contain Teflon or PTFE. There are several lubricating pigments in the formula that hold oil in the surface of the coating. It is applied by the piston manufacturers (3) using either an automated pad print or silk screen method. They are then cured in an oven. I do not have any knowledge as to the potential problems with the knocking engines made before the coated pistons were adopted but I would think it is not a longevity issue. Enjoy your new quieter engines.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Husky makes a moulded mud-guard that works perfect on Tahoes with the factory running boards. Part# 56251 front / 57241 rear for models without factory wheel-well flares. GM doesn't seem to make a moulded guard for some reason, but the Husky's are a perfect fit. The GM flat-ones look silly IMHO. for more info and where to buy. I bought mine from which is where I buy all my truck accessories.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    I put the Husky mud guards on the back wheels of my Tahoe and they fit great and look great (I do not have wheel flares). I would recommend them.
  • BrianThomas, thanks for the nice post. You may be claiming a little too much credit though for slippery pistons. Pistons (e. g, those made by AE) have had impregnated lubrication on their walls now for almost 20 years and certainly there are far more than 3 piston manufacturers out there. (Lets see, Badger, Silvo Lite, AE, Clevite, FM, Thompson, Ohio, etc. while not household names are certainly players.)

    The whole field of internal coatings for engine parts/castings has been around for a while and the racers are heavily into it. Pick up any hard core racing (as opposed to a buff book like Motor Trend) and you will see people advertising this. I think that the Englehard Corp. first started this.
  • sanandtonsanandton Posts: 342
    I have the 2003 5.3 L with a definite CSK problem. How do I go about getting the warranty extended on the engine.
       Also FYI. Just had my Tahoe in shop for 3 days for Transmission problem. It has a TSB on it. It would not shift into second well. It would "slide" slowly into the gear, then suddenly bump into full engagement. It felt as though someone had gently hit my bumper from behind. It is now fixed, but I have more rattles and squeaks than ever.
        Also I pulled a list of TSBs on the 2003 Tahoe and 50+ TSBs came up. Gives you a warm/quesy feeling way down in the gut huh?
  • I have a 2000 SLT Yukon, I have to say I absolutely love owning these trucks, this is the 2nd one I have owned, started with a 97 and what a nice difference between the 2. But I have to say, just looked at a 2004 Yukon that is comparable to mine in features and there is a $20,000 difference between the two, I am feeling a bit ripped here. Maybe its just my luck or the state I live in, but I was suprised on how much of a difference there was. Anyone else have a similar experience? Even in personal adds I find that the 2000 or 2001 is going for around $17500, can this be right?
  • Have 03 LT with wheel flares. Any recommendations on rear flaps ?
  • Blockislandguy, AE Piston has been gone for around five years now. The rest on your list do not make pistons for GM or Ford v8 engines. Impregnation is something that has been around for 30 years. Remember the Chevy Vega and the inpregnated aluminum? The piston coatings of today are just that, coatings. They do indeed bond to the aluminum but sit on top and are visible. There is one other popular piston coating on the market but it is difficult to work with in warm humid conditions. We sell to the aftermarket and racers but there is no money in it. One quart will do 1,000+ pistons when handled properly. The real market is in high production pieces. Federal Mogul was one of the first to heavily advertise coated aftermarket pistons using a little cartoon guy and the "war paint" theme.
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