Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy Tahoe



  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I see what you mean on the rear axle ratios. The 3.42 is the standard, or for $100 on the sticker you can get 4.10.

    Wanna bet the 3.73 was dropped to get the tow rating high enough to avoid the CAFE requirements??? ;)
  • rjp1rjp1 Posts: 1
    I took my Tahoe to the dealership with the following problems. The rear a/c was blowing hot air and I had heard this terrible noise from under the hood, like the fan was hitting something, which happened just before the a/c went out. The noise was very short, but loud and did cause power loss to the vehicle. The noise was heard several times and was heard earlier in the day before dropping the Tahoe off at the service department. It usually happened during acceleration. I told the service advisor that I felt that the two things were related in some way. They called within two hours to tell me that the compressor was bad and to fix it would run $1200. When I picked up the vehicle two days later, the rear a/c is still blowing hot air and the front doesn't seem to be working as well as it did before they worked on it. Now, my questions can the only a/c compressor in the vehicle be bad and it still be blowing cold air in the front? Also, Why would they need to replace the belt ($34), tensioner ($73), switch ($46), plus various other items under $15 if the compressor is all that was bad? What is the real problem here and am I getting ripped off by the dealership?

    I would appreciate any advice, thanks.
  • ffdawgffdawg Posts: 1
    I am buying a 98 chevrolet tahoe 4dr 5.7 vortec mark III edition and its my 1st suv is there anything that i should do to it after I get it it has 160,000 miles on it and I want it to last. their are a few problems that I have to fix when I get it. need's a new cat and new tires any suggestions would by helpful :) thanks Lou
  • AC finally died this past weekend. I was getting an awful vibration when I stepped on the accelerator but I thought I had narrowed the problem down to a broken clamp. I fixed that and everything seemed great for a week or two. This weekend it just died.

    A buddy of mine at work also has a 02 tahoe and he's had the belt tensioner replaced once already and is now having the same problem again. This seems to be a common problem I wonder if GM put a service bulletin out on it. Anyone know?
  • Technical service bulletin "03-01-38-019A" "SEP 04 A/C - Underhood Rattle Noise on Hard Acceleration" addresses this issue.

    Here's what it says:
    Some customers may comment about an underhood rattle noise heard on acceleration or a sudden loss of
    A/C system performance.
    Service Information
    This condition may be caused by liquid slugging of the A/C compressor. This condition may cause an
    internal failure in the A/C compressor. The serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt may also be
    Technicians are to check the A/C system performance and compressor operation using the following
    repair procedure:
    1. Open the hood and inspect the A/C compressor for damage and to see if the compressor is seized.
    Verify that the serpentine belt is not damaged or missing. If the A/C compressor is seized,
    proceed to step 5.
    2. Perform the A/C System Performance test. Refer to the Heating, Ventilation and Air
    Conditioning (HVAC) section of SI. Correct any performance concerns or refrigerant leaks that
    are found.
    3. Inspect the vehicle for other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns.
    Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-013 for more information.
    4. After all other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns have been
    eliminated, only then should the A/C compressor be replaced.
    5. Remove the A/C compressor. Refer to the A/C Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC
    section of SI.
    6. Inspect the transmission cooler lines for damage due to contact from the serpentine belt. Replace
    the transmission cooler lines if necessary.
    7. Install an inline A/C system filter. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-006C for more
    information about A/C system flushing and filter installation procedures. An A/C system flush is
    not to be done unless prior authorization is given by the GM Area Service Manager (in Canada,
    the District Service Manager).
    8. Install an A/C Suction Screen. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-39-003A for more
    information about A/C suction screen repair recommendations and procedures.
    9. Install a new A/C compressor. Refer to the Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC
    section of SI.
    10. Install a new orifice tube for the front A/C system. Refer to the Expansion (Orifice) Tube
    Replacement procedure in SI.
    11. If the vehicle is a 2003 model year Chevrolet Express or GMC Savana van, the vehicle may
    require a new accumulator. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-016 for more
    information. This bulletin refers to an updated design accumulator that may improve the
    performance of the A/C system.
    12. Install a new serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt if they have been damaged due to A/C
    system slugging or an A/C compressor seizure. The serpentine belt tensioner may have broken
    stop tabs and/or a missing front cap.
    13. Verify proper operation of the A/C system.
  • I brought my new 2005 Yukon to the dealer regarding my AC vibration issue I spoke about in a post about a month ago
    The dealer indicated that GM has agreed there is a problem, but they have not come up with a soution. They have given me a case # and showed me GM's Memo on the issue (which is from Nov 2004) and told me they will contact me when GM has a solution. I could post more info on the memo if anyone needs it

    Another question for everyone
    My driver side mirror seems to be auto dimming (looks like the inside rear view mirror in tint etc), but my passenger side mirror does not seem to tint/dim. Is this standard. I have a 2005 Yukon SLT. SO when you look at the outside mirrors at night, they do not look the same

    Another intersting thought: When loading up my Yukon for a trip, I heard the air compressor going off too level off the ride height(I have Autoride) , Why doesn't GM have this compressor accessible to use to blow up items etc. My father in laws GM minivan has this feature. Just a thought

  • kkullkkull Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Tahoe 5.7L with 140,000 miles. Sometimes when I start engine and place in reverse to back out of garage engine stalls. Some times when I am stopped at a red light engine stalls. It may go a week without doing this or it may happen 3 or 4 times a day.

    Each time this happens it will immediately restart and run fine. Computer shows no codes (12).

    I have replaced the coil, cap, rotor, electronic module in distributor, pickup coil, and ECM. Nothing has helped so far.

    Anyone have any ideas?

    Thank you,

  • I love my 2004 Tahoe, but it costs 50$ at least to fill it up !! I am sort of thinking maybe I need to trade to a smaller car, better on gas, maybe toyota avalon. any thoughts?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The difference in fuel economy will be more than offset by first year depreciation. Expect around a 25% loss in value from your purchase price.

    It is something that many do not consider; the big incentives in rebates, employee pricing, and subsidized interest rates can kill the value of a one year old vehicle. I can use our '04 Yukon as an example:

    MSRP: 38720
    Rebate: 3500
    Disc.: 3720
    Price: 31500 before taxes and fees.
    Value: 23687 Private party per Edmunds

    So, assuming I can get top dollar, thats a $7813 loss after 15 months.

    An '05 equiped the same as the '04 can be had for about $32K, or about the same as the '04 was new. And get the full warranty.

    Now, for those of you who might not have caught something here, you might note that the '05 actual cost, even with rebates and "employee discount" is more than the '04. That is because GM is nothing if not a master at number magic. By raising the employee cost, they were able to run the big ad campaign and still make the same or better money on the vehicle.

  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Well, if $50 is the magic number....I hate to inform you that it could easily cost almost as much to fill an Avalon. 18 gallons at todays average $2.429 for 87 octane will run you $43.72. Of course the cost of a fill-up isn't exactly a good measure of your fuel costs. I have a diesel truck that holds 90 gallons.....

    Now...if you want something that gets better gas mileage that's another story. An avalon is a very nice car, particularly the new ones. You'll probably average about 25mpg instead of 15mpg with the Tahoe. So if you drive 15,000 miles per year, that's a savings of about $1,000 per year. Not likely to make-up for your terrible depreciation hit you're going to take by trading your Tahoe.

    If you're planning to buy a new vehicle anyway, then this would be a good time to consider something more reasonable on fuel. Particularly if you really have no need for a full-size SUV, which appears to be the case.

    It's not easy to save money by trading vehicles, particularly just for gas savings. Maybe if you drove 25,000 miles per year and would take a Civic over a Tahoe.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    Hmm, shoulda bought an Avalanche.
    '03 MSRP $34k, paid $24k
    Current Edmunds trade-in 18,827, private seller 20,315.
    only $3685 loss in 31 months. ;) (Been offered $18500 to 19500 trade on loaded '04s selling below Retail)
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    The reason GM charges $100 for the optional axle is to discourage people from buying them. If GM sells too many of the higher numeric axle ratios, it will hurt their CAFE numbers. So, by charging for the optional axle, you will only get it if you really want it. I found there was a major difference in acceleration feel between a 3.73 vs a 4.10 in 2001 on a 4wd Suburban. The 4.10 felt much better. This combined with the towing I do, made the decision very easy for me. No regrets at 65,000 miles.
  • tzunigatzuniga Posts: 2
    Just a thought have you tried to replace the starter solenoid. The symtoms your describing are signs of a bad starting solenoid. Also plugs and cables but if you don't have hesitation during acceleration I don't think the plugs are bad.
  • tzunigatzuniga Posts: 2
    I bought a 2001 Chevy Tahoe last year with the 5.3L engine, for the first eight months that I've had it the truck ran fine with regular gas, about four months ago I notice that my engine was pinging bad, I moved to Mid grade gas and the problem reduced a bit but I can still hear the engine ping at high accelerations when it's at operating temperature. Does anyone else have this problem and is there a better solution than paying high gas prices????? I though about getting my engine clean both oil and fuel systems but I don't know if that would address my problem.
  • taho02taho02 Posts: 3
    I just had my A/C compressor replaced due to this slugging problem. I was getting 2 noises. first the underhood rattle and sometimes a shudder sound. the rattle was due to the slugging and the shudder was due to the compressor locking up and the belt skipping.
    I never lost my A/C. My tahoe was at 36K when the noise started so I tried to find the problem ASAP to be covered under warranty. My dealer told me that I would have to produce this noise for them to help me. for me the noise was intermittant and hard to produce on demand . Fortunantely I found the TSB about the underhood rattle on this forum and took a copy of this to my dealer. By now I was a couple hundred miles over 36K but GM goodwill fix it under warranty. I did some pricing online in case the warranty wasn't honered and after market compressors for the 2002 tahoe ranged from $300 with remanufactured clutch to $600 for the part alone new. With labor and other parts $1,200 seems a bit high but not too much. To answer the question If you have cool air up front then the rear blowing hot issue is not the compressor. If your original complaint to the dealer was blowing hot in the rear then this should have been resolved and covered under the original estimate and I would hope your dealer would resolve this for you. It sounds to me like a control issue there is a seperate heater core in the rear but the refrigerant lines come from the compressor. The lines should have been flushed when the system was evacuated of the R134. The A?C performance of my
    tahoe is as good as when the truck was new after having the compressor replaced as per the GM TSB.Service was great as usual at my local chevy dealer.
  • taho02taho02 Posts: 3
    I just changed my cabin filters on a 2002 tahoe. the filters were $16 at advance auto parts they are listed in the purolator catalog. They are very easy to change it took me about 10 minutes. there are 4 screws you need to have a socket the second screw from the drivers side is recessed. once you remove this black cover you will see the A/C blower/heater core assembly it also looks like a black box. You will see the blower on the right under the dash and the heater core protudes lower into the passanger footwell by the drive axle hump.the filter compartment is between the blower and the core. you will see another screw holding a skinny acess panel in place remove this one screw,remove the access door and remove the filters, there are two side by side. to install reverse the procedure. make sure to have the filters facing the right direction there is an air flow arrow on the filters. this is very easy and my filters were very dirty. it made a big difference in the air flow.
  • I have a 2002 Tahoe and while the A/C is on it makes LOUD obnoxious noises especially while accelerating. Has any one had this problem before and what was it? How do you fix it? My husband thought it was the tensioner spent 80.00 and it still makes the noises. Any information on this would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you in advance. :sick:
  • arriearrie Posts: 312

    As I wrote a lengthy response earlier to your post detailing some issues with my '04 Tahoe with flex fuel (L59) engine, the Z-engine, I have done some more work and I think I found one quite remarkable problem and after working on this my get-up-and-go got MUCH BETTER.

    I had the same problem with lack of power when accelerating from stop light, felt like there just wasn't enough power. What was really confusing is that sometimes power was there but most of the time it wasn't. It also acted like power came with a delay. If I would just keep the gas pedal in one position and allow the truck to accelerate I could feel how power suddenly kicked on.

    All this made me think of possible problem with the intake manifold pressure and was one of the reasons I changed the MAP sensor, which then proved not to be faulty. I did find bad connection at wire harness to MAP sensor though but changing sensor did not really help.

    I still thought it to be a vacuum related issue so I did a simple test. As I had purchased an extra MAP sensor I built a vacuum delay system to see if this makes any difference. Thinking behind this was that if intake manifold pressure is too high (vacuum too low) it retards engine spark timing too much and power just won't be there, especially when gas pedal is suddenly pressed when taking off from stop. This would also explain why power suddenly kicks in when the vehicle first slowly accelerates, power would come when manifold vacuum reaches proper level.

    What I did was that I T-ed off of the vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator with a 3 foot long very narrow tube. The end of this tube I had connected to a 3/8" tube of about 1 foot long and in the end of that I had the MAP sensor. THIS MADE VERY NOTICEABLE IMPROVEMENT TO ENGINE POWER WHEN TAKING OFF FROM STAND STILL.

    Then I came across a GM-Tech Link page in the internet. It tells about a problem with intake manifold gasket for L59 engine. They had made a seal material change obviously due to some issues. The page I found was at:

    After seeing this info I decided to check tightness of my intake manifold bolts. I torqued all 10 bolts to 7.5 ftlb, as the 2002 Haynes repair manual says (believe this part is same design). ALL BOLTS TURNED AT LEAST ONE FULL TURN, SOME ALMOST TWO. Tightening the bolts did help some. It got better for get-up-and-go, pretty much the same as it was with my vacuum delay arrangement.

    After experiencing improvement with bolt tightening I decided to check the gasket. Surprisingly the gasket in my Tahoe was of the new green type, not the old orange but it was obvious that the bolts for my intake manifold were not tightened right. In the surface of the cylinder head around several intake ports it was clearly visible how the gasket had not even touched the surface. The seal itself also showed how it had not been compressed around several ports. Also, underneath the intake manifold on top of the valley cover there was all kinds of dirt build-up. This is really strange since there is a good foam seal at each end of intake manifold to seal between the manifold and top of valley cover. Dirt should not get in there unless there is a force to make it through the foam seals. This force I believe is the vacuum from intake ports that leaks through gasket.

    I went and bought a new set of gaskets for about $90.00 from a dealer and installed. Tightened bolts in two steps first with about 4 ftlb on all bolts and then 7.5 ftlb for final torque. Did this in the order described in the Haynes repair manual.

    NEW GASKET MADE A HUGE IMPROVEMENT IN GET-UP-AND-GO. The delay is gone, it goes now when I ask it to. It also made gear shift better, obviously as the engine can give a better torque output.

    Hope this helps,

  • I have a 97 tahoe lt 5.7L 4WD w/ 106000 miles. I have a problem with going up long inclines.
    My engine loses a significant amount of power and is very sluggish and the SES light flashes at me for about 2 minutes then goes steady for about 80 miles then goes out. I know thgat when the SES light comes on and goes out later the fault has not occured again. If I drive in 3rd gear the light will come on too an go out later. Driving on level roads seems to be fine, every now and then I can feel a little jump at driving speed. Is this a transmission problem or does it have something to do with the engine ? Maybe both ? Any help would be nice
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    I'm interested in a Tahoe and need the bench seat. It only comes in cloth. The salesman said I could get aftermarket leather installed for about $1000. Does anyone have experience with aftermarket leather on seats? Thanks.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    You might check the GMC Yukon. Back in '02 they had a leather bench option when the Tahoe did not.

    I've seen some aftermarket leather that was pretty good.
  • milehi2milehi2 Posts: 2
    I have a 03 Tahoe...The Dealership wants you to change the fluid in the front and rear differential ( front if you have a 4x4) every 30k miles because they wack you for $300.00 for the service. the synthetics should go the 100k distance, I just top my fluids off. Hope this helps !
  • milehi2milehi2 Posts: 2
    I have a 03 Tahoe and just took it to the dealership to check out the brakes (I have 40K miles on the vehicle) the brakes were fine ....the tech told me the front brakes go for 70k miles and the rears 45K. Thats the good news.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    The bench seat in the Yukon only comes in cloth. Thanks.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    There's a company called Classic Soft Trim that many Dealers use. Don't know if there are any in your area but from what I've heard their leather is better than OEM and they do very nice work. Folks who want leather but not alll the extras you have to take to get it often go this route.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    I'm considering buying a Tahoe. I see that a hybrid is due out in the spring 2006. Should I wait? Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I'd wait. If gas hits $5 a gallon they may be giving Tahoes away in '06. ;)
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    Turns out that, according to a recent article in, the Tahoe hybrid won't be much of a hybrid.

    For example, the "hybrid' versions of GM's Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra pickups use only conventional technology improvements rather than the full combination of gas-electric engines (these pickup trucks could easily reach 30-35 miles per gallon if GM had done a better job).

    But GM is not stopping there. Its "Green Line' Saturn VUE and Chevy Malibu "hybrid' will be only marginally more fuel-efficient.

    >While mislabeling conventional cars as hybrids is disturbing, GM's plans to >hybridize its massive Yukon and Tahoe SUVs in 2007 is a potential poison to >the market. GM officials call these vehicles "strong' hybrids, which may well be a >euphemism for "muscle hybrids' vehicles that use hybrid technology primarily for >performance rather than significantly boosting fuel economy
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Why do you drive an SUV? To look cool, or to do a job. A hybrid has yet to be economically designed to pull a 7K lb load. And if you need to pull a load like that, fuel economy is not a concern.

    And if a full tow capacity hybrid could be made, by GM or anyone else, it would have been done. The potential profit in sales for a vehicle like that would be astronomical.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    I don't drive one, yet. I'm considering a Tahoe with a bench seat because it's one of the few cars I can drive comfortably. I definitely don't need a Tahoe, but I'm not going to buy a car I'm not comfortable in. I'm open to any suggestions of alternatives. Thanks.
Sign In or Register to comment.