Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy Tahoe



  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Funny but I think Tahoe looks better than Yukon especially for that nose part. This is my own opinion and I'm sure there are a lot of people who think opposite. The same way I think Chevrolet pick-up trucks look better than GMC trucks in front.

    As I used to drive a Ford Crown Victoria it was the same way that in my opinion the nose of Crown Victoria was a lot better looking than nose of Mercury Grand Marquis. I did not like the vertical grille fins at all. If I had been given a Grand Marquis for free or for a really good deal that I would have one I would have replaced the grille with the same Crown Victoria has.

    Thank god we all are different...

  • I have the same problem!! Have you found out any more about how to fix?
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I looked at Suburban as well as Yukon XL. Found my particular YXL that had only the options I wanted, i.e. leather, middle row buckets, 17" wheels, and power pedals. The way the options were structured, my YXL was actually a little cheaper than a Suburban LT with mandatory XM, heated seats, homelink, etc. Stuff I didn't want to pay for. The power pedals were especially difficult to find as a stand-alone option. Also had a heck of a time finding a good color combo. Gray interior seems to be more popular around here, but I prefer tan.

    I also happen to prefer the GMC nose and grille, and don't like the rubber trim on the sides of the Chevys. Not deal breakers, I would have been happy either way. This just happened to be the right combo for me and the dealer was nice to work with.

    Afterthought: I may be wrong, but the locking rear diff was standard on GMC and bit extra on Chevy. The websites now have specs for the '06 models. Some anal person will surely look this up and correct me if I'm wrong.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    "locking rear diff was standard on GMC and bit extra on Chevy" ... yes, locking diff. for years has been standard equip. on Yukon and an option on a Tahoe. I considered ordering (Tahoe or Yukon) at one point and observed it was much easier to pick and chose individual options on a Yukon. Chevy tends to bundle their options into packages.
  • did you get an answer?

    please email me
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Good advice,

    Next time I might go check GMC.

    When I bought my Tahoe there were two things that I had to have; A good seat with lumbar support etc. and automatic climate control. I can drive 10+ hours straight stopping only for gas and I need a really good seat. I also want the automatic climate control as I used to have it in My Crown Vic. and found it to be one of the best improvements for a driver there is. No need to adjust temperature of fan speeds, just set the temp and go.

    Well, guess what. Those two items come only with the LT package at Chevrolet. Because of that I now have this very nice truck with almost all of the options. Luckily I don't have moonroof or 4-wheel drive. Traction control might be beneficial but the locking differential seems to work really well.

    Perhaps GMC can sell a Yukon with only the options I want? Need to go ask them next.

    On the other hand, for that $6500 for all the options it is not all that bad...

  • Rob & Jay,
    Sorry it took so long to get back to you guys. The procedure description is quite long, but I believe it is not that difficult, based on the low warranty charge back to GM in my case.

    Inside Air Temperature Sensor Replacement (Overhead)
    - Remove the left windshield garnish Pull the molding straight out
    to release retainers.
    - Remove the left center pillar assist handle & center pillar garnish
    Hold molding firmly & pull straight out. Handle is held on with (3) screws.
    I think you only need to pull out the top of this molding.
    - Remove the left sun (3) screws & an electrical connector if lighted
    - Remove the headliner retaining screws. Just the screws that hold the
    headliner in that area I believe. I found no picture or detail showing # of
    - Gently pull down the headliner.
    - Remove the inside air temperature sensor from the headliner. Doesn't say
    how, so I believe the headliner must hold it in place.
    - Disconnect the electrical connector from the inside air temp sensor.

    Installation Procedure

    - Rather than list all the steps.....Just reverse the order of removal.

    The GM shop manual is (5) volumes & a bear to find things in, but the procedure above is the combination of procedures from the sensor removal & all the interior trim removal procedures. Hopefully this helps. Let me know how you guys make out with this, & don't hesitate to ask if you need more help.

    Good Luck,

  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    I just bought an 06. I shopped and shopped for an LS with the things I wanted. . . . 5.3 engine and a bose sound system. You buy an LS with those two options and you are in and around $39k. . . I think GM must have a rule to the dealers. . . for every desirable option, you gotta add 2 nobody gives a flip about.
    In the end, I bought an 06 2WD Z71 with no options but XM. MSRP was $41,735 compared to the LS I considered listing for $39,520. For the $2,215 difference I got 17" wheels and upgraded Goodyears, overhead garage door opener, leather seats, and a 6 disk changer. Instead of a single 6-way driver's power seat, I got driver and passenger 10way power seats w/ power lumbar and reclining + heated seats + memory driver's seat. I got power outside mirrors, w/power fold, curb-tilt, integrated signal and driver side auto diming and courtesy ground illumination lights. The Z71 added things that may not be useful to me. . .a high capacity air cleaner, recovery hooks, and a skid plate pkg. The LS had a third seat and the Z71 didn't. That suited me fine as I've stored the third seat in my last 4 vehicles.
    My seat-of-the-pants theory. . .best deal is a base LS, Z71, or LT. They get you with the adds. It ain't easy to find a stripped Z71 or LT.
  • Dave,
    My aspirator is rattling as well. I pulled the cover off, which seamed loose, and then fished some string up through the tiny holes, over the fan assembly, and back down through the cover. This allowed me the leverage to snap it back together, but to no avail. It still rattles.

    Do you think I need a whole new assembly, or is it likely just rattling against the top side of the headliner? Seams like if I stick my finger up and raise the assembly off the headliner, it stops rattling, but who knows. Before I replace the whole thing I was wondering if I could put some kind of rubber gasket between the assembly and the headliner.

    Could I get those removal and install procedures instructions from you as well? I have never taken off the headliner and was leery of doing that, however that rattle is going to drive me crazy.

  • Greg,
    It sounds like your problem of rattling is somewhat different than Rob & mine, as described in messages 5563, 5566, and 5569. My problem was a noisy, squealing fan bearing within the "Aspirator", not a rattle. As I stated in msg 5569, my aspirator was replaced by the dealer while the truck was still under warranty at a total charge to GM of $79.39. Today, the part lists for $39.23, or can be boughten through for $22.36 + S&H.

    Due to the low cost of the part, I doubt that it is serviceable. I would replace it, if that is truly the cause of your rattle. If yours came apart, then I would think that it probably is bad at this time. I have not personally replaced mine, as the warranty replacement, done by the dealer is still good. As I have not taken mine apart, I can not comment on whether I think that it may be rattling on the headliner.

    As for the procedures, ....that is what I posted in message 5605, directly, word for word from various sections of the GM shop manuals. The only difference is that the shop manual indicates to remove the center pillar garnish molding, which to me indicates the entire molding, which then also requires removing the sill plate moldings. Removing the entire molding might not be that easy as the seat may be in the way. That is why I suggested that it may be possible to only remove the top part of the molding.

    NOTE: The procedure does not require the removal of the entire headliner. The procedure only requires removing the attachment screws in that area of the headliner, & gently pulling down the headliner in that area, to give you room to reach above it to remove the aspirator.

    These procedures are what GM has written as the proper way to remove & replace the Aspirator (Inside Air Temperature Sensor).

    As the total warranty cost was only $79.39, it doesn't seem like the job took to long to complete, so I believe that the entire center garnish molding was probably not removed & replaced.

    As you seem to be a hands on type person, perhaps you can post your findings & suggestions, if you proceed to replace yours. That way we can all benefit from your experience.

    Hope this helps. Good Luck & keep us posted.

  • jmogajmoga Posts: 1
    Well on my way home, my 2002 Tahoe that has only 42000 miles on it, had a really bad sound. Transmission issues. The dealer says I have the 100k warranty on my vehicle, so I'm hoping that the Transmission is totally covered under that. We will see.
  • Hi Guy
    You most likely have a speaker grounding out.The power amplifer will open to protect your audio system.Check the speakers over the barn doors or tailgate first as these are the most likely ones to give trouble .

    Good Luck
  • I'm looking at getting a 2002 or 2003 Tahoe (probably '02). I'm new to this site but I read through many of the reviews. It seems that the '02's have potentially had some tranny problems? Do you guys think the problem is significant enough for me to stay away from the '02? Is the '02 a good vehicle? I was also looking at a 4Runner but I like the Tahoe better. I need a good 4X4 for the snow and to haul my dog around.

    Also, what is a common warranty on these, 36K?

    Should I be going with the LT version?

    Thanks guys.
  • dfhsahdfhsah Posts: 1
    I started having this problem today. Have you found a solution to the problem? If the problem was fixed, did you have it fixed by the dealer?

    Would appreciate any help.

  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    I would say the newer the better as far as problems go. The later in model life the less bugs to work out. That goes for most any vehicle. I don't think the '02 had more tranny problems than any of the others. There are some problems with the sunshells, but it's not epidemic or anything. There are millions of these trannys on the roads (it's the same tranny that's in every chevy 1/2 ton truck/suv) so if there were major problems you'd know about it.

    LT vs LS vs Z71? Depends on what you're looking for. An LS can be equipped somewhat similar to an LT at least during the years you're considering. I had an '02 LS with cloth seats. Mainly because I needed a bench seat up front and it only came on the base model with cloth. You probably don't need the 3rd row so you might be more likely to find one in an LS. Z71 has more aggresive tires, less chrome, and a more conventional suspension.

    3 years/36k is all GM puts on their vehicles. Won't be much if any warranty left on any of the years you mentioned. Might look for a private party that is selling that bought the GM extended warranty. You should be able to transfer that into your name for very little money. Plus you can typically get a better deal buying from a private party. I'm not a big fan of extended warranties, but I did get one once when buying from a private party. Transferred a 100k miles Toyota warranty for $50. I'd only look at the extended warranty if it's through the manufacturer. I'm not a fan at all of non OEM extended warranties either. They go out of business too often and take your money with them.
  • sebring, thanks for the help. I won't stress over the tranny then. I guess I'm not real sure what the main differences between the LT and the LS. I originally thought the LS was 2 wheel drive but I see that it can be 4x4 too.

    I'm going to pick one up cheap from a professional auction. My buddy owns a dealership. I saw one yesterday go for $12,500 at auction (leather, 4x4, 50K miles). I can't afford not to get one at that price!

    Either way, I doubt they'd come with extended warranties from the auction?

    Thanks again.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    A buddy with a dealership - that could get dangerous. How many cars will your garage hold? :-)

    Lots of info in the Extended Warranties discussion too. The standard warranty on the '02 is 3/36k. (link)

    Steve, Host
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Either way, I doubt they'd come with extended warranties from the auction?

    Not likely. It usually can only be transferred from the original owner to the next owner. In this case, the next owner is the dealership that's running it through the sale. Your buddy (if he's a GM dealer) might be able to get you a decent deal on an ext. warranty. I think you'd need to find a Tahoe with at least SOME factory warranty though. That might be hard to figure out at an auction.

    LS is the base model. LT just has more options standard. LT & LS can come in 4x2 or 4x4 and have either 4.8L or 5.3L V8. Based on my experience, the 4.8L isn't worth bothering with. I've had both and have no intention of ever buying the 4.8L again.
  • Is it possible to get bucket seats with a 1/2 console, so that you don't have anything on the floor between the 2 front seats? Thanks.
  • lf398lf398 Posts: 1
    I need help from other tahoe owners. I have a 2002 tahoe. Has electronic climate control system, BUT, I never put the mode to "auto" on either the mode knob or the fan knob. When I put my heat on, I put the temp knob at about 78, fan blower in the middle, and the mode to bi-level (floor, dash). I get warm heat for a while, then it starts blowing cold. Been into the dealer MANY times and they keep telling me that is how it is supposed to work with climate control, but shouldnt that only be if I use the AUTO mode settings? Help - someone explain how the heat is "supposed" to work!!
  • I have just purchased a 2000 Tahoe and I am having problems with the two buttons on the dash that damper the re circulating air damper or bring in air from the outside. Right now it seems to be stuck in the outside air position. When I push the button for recirculation it blinks for a second and then returns to the outside air setting. I am looking for a solution. So any suggestions are appreciated.
  • cay1cay1 Posts: 4
    Rotate your vent selection knob CCW slightly so that it doesn't point directly at the lower vent selection.
  • Hi, I am new here

    I have a '05 Tahoe with the stock 1 disk cd player and saw the 6 disk changer radio on ebay, is it just a plug in that will work or is there more to it then that, will the radio controls on the stearing wheel work with the 6 disk and will ON Star work, I would also like to inqure about rims and tire packages, i would like 20-22" rims with a level kit has anybody done this, i am getting bored with the stock look of my truck i am in the houston are if anybody knows of shops that do a good job with the tires and wheels

  • Hello all,

    Have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe that was purchased new. The first set of Firestone tires wore choppy even with rotation and balancing every 5000 miles. Replaced after 20,000 miles. Neither dealer nor firestone would step up to replace. Not their issue each said.

    Got new set of tire and had wheels aligned. Rotated and balanced tires every 5000 miles, but still wore choppy. Replaced after 30,000.

    Replaced all shocks, pitman and idler arms before purchasing third set of tires. Got alignment with third set. Tires still wearing choppy.

    Anyone having this issue? Any suggestions?
  • Yes - I have the same problem. Bad engineering I guess. In winter time once the car is warmed up and I select 82 it will blow cold hair - if I turn it all the way (hot) it will be way too hot! So I just set the temperature and everything else to AUTO. That's seems to work.
  • I have a 2005 Yukon with 2nd row Buckets. A Suprise new addition to the family (There will be 5 of us total) is coming and looks like the 2nd row bench is a lot more practical than the 2nd row of buckets.
    Can a standard bench be ordered and installed?
    Does anyone make a 'filler' that will make the buckets more like a bench??
    Otherwise I might be trading up to a XL

  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I have a bench. Would love to have 'captains'. My color is tan...

  • Hello all,
    I have a 2001 Tahoe and have not had any problems with it. Lately it is hesitant to start promptly. It used to start right up on the initial turn of the key. Now I have to turn the key two or three times to start it. I have changed the fuel filter and the air filter but it still does it . Can anyone tell me why?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Mileage? Could be plugs or plug wires, or, if your locale is seeing the same issues we have had here with a particular major brand of fuel, poor quality fuel.
Sign In or Register to comment.