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Chevy Tahoe



  • is it possible to change my 2 row into a 3 row? also i can't get the larger side of the split back seat to fold down. The single seat folds no prob.....the double won't budge. It's supposed to isn't it? PLEASE HELP ME - thanx Sal
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    You can buy third row seats aftermarket. I don't know how well they work. I also don't know anything about their safety!!! I would be concerned because you likely don't have seat belts back there now.

    Both sides of the second row in my 99 fold down. You likely have something keeping the hinge from rotating. Look at how the small seat folds and see if something is keeping the large seat from rotating.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Just remember that the third row option included heavier rear springs.

    The wide side should fold down in the same manner as the narrow side. Make sure the cable is in good shape or the latch will not release when pulling the fabric tab. Could just be a minor adjustment.

    The seat belts are integral to the seats themselves.
  • Hi I'm currently in the market for a two door tahoe. Well I wanted to ask a couple of questions considering this will be my first SUV and my first Chevy.
    First I'm looking for a Two Door Tahoe or Yukon that is no older than 1995 or 1994 (depending on conditions). Second I want the 6.5 Tubro Diesel with no more than 150,000 miles. Is what I am looking for impossible to find?
    I'm not asking for people to help me buy it I'm just asking can I still find a Tahoe or Yukon in this condition?
    Thanks :D
  • chitochito Posts: 1
    I have basically the same problem except only my speedometer is the only thing that quit. Anyone know what I can do to fix it?
  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    No, not impossible to find...but almost. The two-door Tahoes and Yukons have sort of a cult following. They can bring stupid money sometimes, especially with the turbo diesel engine! The prices are all over the place on them (check out and

    And folks just love to jack 'em up and modify them...which in my humble opinion ruins the look and the value. They also tend to be like buying a used BMW or many cases, they've had the piss run out of them.

    So, the caveat here would be buyer beware. Make sure you're getting a nice one, and be prepared to look for a while if you insist on the turbo diesel engine. If you're willing to drive (or fly) a ways to find one, then autotrader or ebay motors would be the way to go.
  • My Tahoe 4-wheel drive makes grinding sounds when slowing down. If I am making a turn and slow down, the truck will come to a complete stop. However; it does great @highway speeds. I am clueless as to what this can be.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Which 4x4 mode are your running when this happens and what are the road conditions? Dry, wet, snow, etc.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    A Tahoe or Yukon with Turbo Deisel? Wow, that's one I've never seen. :confuse:
  • yrneh1yrneh1 Posts: 25
    I also have similar problem. My tachometer died first. Now the speedometer is also out after 2 months. When I went to the dealer (out of warranty - 45k miles), they quoted $650 to replace the entire cluster. Outrageous. Is this a possible factory recall issue?
  • In 4x4 hi and it doesn't matter what the road condition is, dry or wet. It just started doing this about 2 months ago. I don't know what the difference is?
  • I own a 2002 Chevy Tahoe..Nowhere in my owners manual does it tell you at what level(gallons remaining) that the light comes on...The tank holds 26 gallons..Does anyone know how much fuel you have left in the tank when light comes on???? Thanks, Steve
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    You should not be in 4hi for any dry/wet road conditions. Only snow/ice/mud. 2hi and autotrac are the only selections that can be used on anything besides slippery surfaces (wet is not considered slippery). 4hi locks your axles together and powers both front and rear wheels. When you turn, the axles are binding because the inside wheels are not able to turn at different speeds, which they must do when turning. You're essentially destroying your 4x4. It's not noticeable at highway speeds because you're not making any turns large enough to bind the axles. A quick description of the settings:

    Autotrac- Can be used on any surface. All power is sent to the rear axle until slippage occurs. When the rear tires slip, 50% of power is almost instantly shifted to the front axles. It's not as good as 4x4, but the big benefit is you can drive on all surfaces. This is great when the roads are partially slippery, or you're driving some clear roads/some slippery roads etc.

    4hi- Can only be used on slippery surfaces. The road has to be slippery enough to let the front tires slip when making turns, otherwise the drivetrain can bind up and cause major damage. Best choice when roads are completely snow-covered or when off-roading.

    2hi- Use any time, only rear axles get power.

    4lo- Same basic use as 4hi except the vehicle is geared significantly lower. Use mainly off-road, or perhaps when pulling very heavy loads up very steep hills at slow speeds (boat ramps/heavy trailer). Not good for on-road use really.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I have a 2005 Yukon XL. It has a 31-gallon tank, and if I fill up as soon as the light comes on, it will take about 25-26 gallons. So there are 4-5 gallons to go. Kind of conservative, but better safe than sorry.
  • I really appreciate this. The manual only says you could damage your 4 wheel drive if you drive on dry or wet pavement for long periods of time. Your exactly right, this is what is happening. THANK YOU. I hope I have not done any damage to it.
  • I have a 2002 5.3 and my light comes on at 20.5 gallons (or every 2 days.....just kidding) or 5 gallons is still left.
  • My 03 Yukon with a 5.3 comes on with 3-3.5 gallons left. If my light comes on, I am looking for a gas station in 30 miles or less.

    Mike :)
  • drejdrej Posts: 119
    Hi ;My 95 truck developed an electrical problem (Worst problems at times)... the "Backing lights" (Bright white) blink in the rear with the turn-signal (So I put tape over them so as not to distract divers behind me) not to mention ....Also when hitting the brakes the rear backing lights go on. In addition the right rear turn signal (when applied) blinks both the left and right together (+with the backing lights) almost as if I applied the emergency flashers (less the idiot light). So I have to be care full making a right signal. Any ideas? I didn't see any posts on this one. I do haver the tralier tow Package D~
  • I bought my Tahoe brand new and have 50K miles on it in a little over two years. Everything was fine with it until last month, I had my oil changed and a week later the lifters were making horrible noise and my heater only works intermittently. Took it to the dealer and was told the oil was old and they did another oil change but three weeks later it's doing the same thing. This only happens in the morning when it's cold. Also the coolant is leaking out but they are not able to find the leak. I haven't smelled any coolant while driving. Has anyone heard of these issues? I'm very annoyed that I spent 47K on a SUV and two years later it's in the shop.

    Thanks :mad:
  • drejdrej Posts: 119
    Could be coolant leaking into your oil. look at the oil after driving , is it that foamy whitish color... smell of antifreeze? maybe a head gasket leak? no worries since you should still have a warranty!!!! go to another dealer! D~
  • I have a 2001 GMC Yukon w/109700 miles on it just took it in for its first real check-up - Plugs, fluid etc. I too have this problem, a couple of years ago I noticed it knocking in the morning but soon clears up as it warms up. My Cousin works as a mechanic at my local GMC dealer; I asked him about it and he informed me that for these trucks it is normal, it doesn't seem to hurt anything and as you can see I have a lot of miles on my truck and am planning on putting a lot more on it.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    The knocking is somewhat common, I believe it's called "cold start knock" officially. Some do it really bad, some lightly. My '02 started doing it around 20k miles and shortly thereafter I towed a trailer acrossed country and it never did it again. Go figure. My '03 hasn't done it yet, just rolling passed 24k miles. They tend to use a little oil too.

    The coolant leak is likely the intake and that needs fixed. Some have had problems with intakes. None of mine did, but it's a known problem.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    "Chevrolet said on Thursday it will introduce the redesigned 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe in New York at Times Square on New Year's Eve."

    2007 Chevrolet Tahoe Launch (Inside Line)

    Steve, Host
  • I'm new to the forum....noticed your message about the speedometer. Mine went out recently--needle drops to the bottom, then attempts to reset itself in 5 mph increments each time I cycle the ignition. Works fine for a few days, then same problem all over again... Have heard about other owners with same issue--sounds like a defect in the cluster and should be recalled. Looking for anyone with info on what to do. A $650 cluster replacement doesn't sound like a viable option.
    (2004 Tahoe, less that 2 years old, ~39,000 miles when problem first occurred.)
  • do a search on "piston slap". These trucks are notorious for this.....although dependable, these pushrod old school V8's aren't exactly precision engineered like a BMW V-10 engine and there is some slap on warm up.

    Mine has done it for years with no probs! Just be gentle on the engine during warm takes a while to warm up as well.
  • Can anyone advise me how to remove the headrests from the middle row of seats.They go up and down but not out and I need the space. Its an 02 Tahoe with leather.
  • This is my first post to this forum so bear with me if I'm doing this wrong. About one week ago my wife was driving our 2004 Chev. Tahoe home when all of the sudden all of the gauges went on the blitz. The Odometer readout read somthing like "Service Stability". At that point it didn't die but everything electrical seemed to have a mind of it's own. Once she got home, and turned off the motor, she tried to start the engine. When she turned the key, everything was dead (no power seats, power locks, starter, etc.) When I get home from work a few hours later, she tells me what happened and that her truck was dead. SO I go out and try to start it. It starts immediately with no problems ??!!??!!??!?!?!? Back to normal or so we thought. The next day, the same syptoms again but this time, it would not start for me either, completely dead. Me being an old school shade-tree, I guessed either the battery or alternator so I go have them both checked at the local mechanic (after I jump started the engine). He says both the batt. and the alt. are fine. and that I should take it to the dealership to have them run tests on it. Once at the dealership, they run some tests on it and say they THINK it's the battery.
    Confused at this point, I figure, what the heck, I'll try it, they're Chevrolet's official mechanic's and SHOULD know what they're talking about (WRONG). I replace the battery and it works OK for one day then the gremlins start up again. SO...back to chevrolet with a new (needless) $70 battery. This time, the mechanic changes his mind and says he thinks it needs reprogramming and charges me $145 to do so. He then does a short 10 min. Test drive and proclaims it cured! (WRONG) This time, it worked for a whopping 2 hours before the symptoms started again. Does ANYONE have any idea what could be wrong with this thing?
    I have a friend who's a mechanic. When I told him the symptoms, he said that he thought it might be the cluster. Not knowing anything about a cluster (or even what it is) does this sound viable? He also said that the cluster would cost about $400 +/-! This is a 2 year old Tahoe mind you just out of warranty.
    Lastly, the local Chevrolet dealership has thus far cost me $215. If I take the Tahoe back again tomarrow and they decide (by process of elimination obviously) that the cluster needs replacing it could potentially cost me $400 +/- and labor cost (I'm guessing $500 total). Overall, this could cost me $800 to get a dang electrical problem fixed. Would it be customary for chevrolet to deduct the $145 from the toal cost since they did not fix it yesterday or am I asking too much?
    Any help any of you could provide would be GREATLY appreciated.
  • 2002 2wd tahoe... wondering what the max tire size i can put without rubbing and without a lift... putting 20inch rims with nitto terra grapplers... thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Whoah. Lets look at the symptoms you described and think this one through. Gauges went nuts, then car would not start. Cluster has nothing to do with the car being dead. My best guess without seeing the vehicle is that there is an electrical connection failure. Proper procedure would be to check the grounding between the battery and the engine, frame, and body. Also check the 12VDC connections at the fuse box under the hood as well as the one in the dash. This really sounds like an intermittent grounding problem as the cluster started giving crazy readings before all went dead. That can be caused by a low voltage condition, but your saying the whole vehicle went dead and then started up again would indicate that a bad ground is more likely.

    But not a bad cluster. Somebody is shot-gunning the problem and is costing you money that needn't be spent.

    If I were a betting man, I would go with a bad ground, or a loose power connection at the underhood fuse box.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I agree 100%!

    When it gives those cluster problems first and then is completely dead as you try to start it, it really sounds like a grounding problem or other loose electrical connection.

    Would they refund you some money for no good "fixes", DREAM ON.

    Service today with GM and Ford by my own experience is so bad no wonder people turn to buy Toyotas and Hondas.

    What is wrong with American car manufacturers?

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