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Chevy Tahoe



  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    You might be interested in this discussion: What will it take for consumers to buy American brands??

    tidester, host
  • Thanks for your reply. I also thought about a bad connection but only checked the obvious ones. I looked for any corrosion around the Battery terminals - none and both cables are very tight. Any other grounds, I wouldn't know where to start looking. I would hope given the symptoms that I described to the mechanic that they would have also thought of a grounding problem. I thought about checking for loose or worn wires myself but when I open the hood on these new cars, it just looks like a jumbled mess to me. It sure was allot easier back when cars actually had 2 inches of free (empty) space under the hood. Since it's an intermittent problem, I give the mechanics the benefit of the doubt. In other words, when I take it in, the problem isn't happening. It has thus far started fine, no shorts, no gauges going nuts, etc. Unfortunately my Tahoe seems to only want to act up away from the shop. This leads me to agree with you that it is a short. Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to check it myself nor the know how if I did. If it were the cluster, would it affect the door locks, power seat, etc? I want to be able to tell the mechanic today, "NO, it's not the cluster, check for grounding problems" I hate being on the receiving end of a mechanic shot gunning the problem.
    Thanks again, Jason
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The Tahoe actually has a computer system that runs a lot of the functions you describe. If the power to that computer is bad, everything it controls will look "bad". My first place to look is the fuse box under the hood on the drivers side on the wheel well. There are several high current power busses going through there and with it being in the hostile under hood environment I would check it carefully for corroded or loose connections.

    The cluster itself is a display unit only. It doesn't control the starting function or windows, locks, etc. Common logic (which doesn't appear to be all that common in the repair industry anymore) would dictate that multiple system failures occuring all at one time (seats, locks, windows, cluster, no start) are going to be power related. In these newer vehicles are several power distribution systems, but a mechanic worth his salt should be able to figure this one out pretty quickly. The '99 and later GM trucks and SUVs had a simplified wiring system with far fewer splices and interconnects. This makes it much easier to track down as most connection problems will be at junction boxes instead of buried in the middle of a harness somewhere inside a body panel.

    If you have access to another GM dealer, you might consider a second opinion. These guys are shooting in the dark.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,571
    There's an interesting thread in the archives about this stuff:

    Grounding Kit

    Steve, Host
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    very interesting. I laughed at the cost of $200. Back in the day, we sold Standard Ignition battery cables with a through hole lug on each end for about $2 a foot.

    I guess we should have used a fancier name.

  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Or you can remove the switch, clean the contacts and reinsert. 10 min. job, pop off the trim surround (all the way to the radio is one piece), remove the switch, disassemble, clean contacts, reinsert. Problem solved..
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Remember to never run the tank dry as the fuel pump is cooled by the reserve fuel. Why would you run it so that the low fuel warning light comes on anyway?
  • fjd44fjd44 Posts: 11
    Actually I did just that -- about once every eight to ten weeks. Spend the $35, do it just once.
  • The dreaded intermediate-shaft clanking is back--at least that's what I think it is--right after the my three years are up! The truck only has 30K miles on it. I had it "fixed" at around 5K miles and it was just fine... I assume the first fix was just a temporary patch until the warranty expires.

    Please please please, does anyone know of a permanent solution, or perhaps a temporary one that I can do myself. My independent mechanic says he has heard of the problem (has a Suburban himself) but doesn't know exactly what to do about it. Any information/pointers would be most appreciated.

    PS: I can grab the intermediate shaft and feel it rattle as I shake it--more towards the steering wheel than the U-joint at the bottom.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    there is a fix. . . not the one where they just lube the steering column. . . go ask your Chevy dealer. . .
  • Replace fuel pump on 97 Tahoe and now Service Engine light is on. Ran a scan and got back codes P0172, P0175 and P1153 not sure where to start to trouble shoot the problem.
  • I am ready to buy a 2004 Tahoe and have noticed that the Trailblazer actually has more front leg room... 41.3 vs. 46.9 inches. Is there any way to have the driver seat moved back in the Tahoe to get 2 or 3 more inches?


  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Take those codes, and your Tahoe, to your local AutoZone. They will scan for free and "SHOULD" be able to tell you what they mean.
  • I recently had a similar experience with my 2005 Tahoe. The gauge dropped quickly from 1/4 tank to E, and the light went on. It has a 26 gal. tank and took only 18.6 gal. to fill up.
  • i cannot imagine the Trailblazer being bigger in the front seat than the Tahoe/Yukon. Putting the seat all the way back leaves me probably more than a foot away from the pedals (But I'm only 5'-10" They are very roomy and comfortable up front

  • 2003 Tahoe. RPM gauge started sticking at 6k RPM but would eventually ease its way back down to normal (no I wasn't driving so hard to make it go that high) (I know you were thinking that)LOL....anyway, it then started sticking at 0 and would finally go up to where it should be. It only did this in cold weather. Now, it sticks all around, no matter what the temp outside is. ???? Help?!?!?
  • :sick: New motor in 1995 4x4 tahoe. Won't start from time to time - not reproducible when visiting mechanic(s).
    Must jiggle gear shift back and forth, move to nuetral etc and finally it may start. Had Nuetral/park sensor replaced on transmission, didn't help. Has a new battery. Could it be starter related?
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Found info on codes as follows:

    P0172 - Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 1

    P0175 - Fuel Trim System Rich Bank 2

    P1153 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1

    This all would indicate an oxygen sensor problem.

    Unfortunately I don't remember which side is bank one and which is bank 2.

    I also don't know how many oxygen sensors you have in a '97 Tahoe. In my '04 there are 4 sensors. One before and one after converter in each bank. (Bank here is left or right side exhaust piping before they join together).

    Also check that oxygen sensor wire harnesses are in good shape and well connected.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,571
    2007 Chevrolet Tahoe Drive (Karl on Cars)

    New model talk is happening in the 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon discussion.

    Steve, Host
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Sometimes this will happen if the cluster is not making a good connection to the harness. If there are no other performance issues, and this is the only gauge with problems, that is probably the cause. I have seen this where merely unplugging the cluster and plugging it back in would cause the problem to go away.

  • Andrew2001 did you find out the fix for this problem? My '99 Tahoe started doing the same thing this weekend. I also changed the flasher, to no avail. Hopefully, you found the cause. :confuse:
  • jbug1jbug1 Posts: 1
    I too have a 2004 Tahoe and yesterday, 1/1/2006, when I got in my Tahoe both front eletrical seats and the passenger side windows would not work. AND they are still not working, we tried many things and My husband first thought it could be a fuse and then tried checking the wiring but could not find the problem (my husband is a mechanic, on large vacuum trucks, but is not as familiar with electrical stuff so his experience didn't help this time). I have to leave town in the morning and drive about 5 hours away to work for the week, (without the seats or passenger windows working) but I am going to try to find a dealership when I get there to look at the problem. jpenney if you find out what the problem is would you please post it? I promise to do the same.
    A little background on my vehicle, I had to have the fuel pump replaced in Sepetember and about two weeks ago we kept hearing a knocking noise in the dash when the heater was on, don't know if this could be related or not.
    Please let me know if you have an answer, I love my Tahoe and do not want to have to trade it in yet!!
  • cay1cay1 Posts: 4
    If it is not a external grounding problem it may be a cracked internal battery terminal. Some AC Delco batteries are known for this. Even though you replaced the battery you may have replaced it with another defective battery that may be intermittent. You might measure between chassis ground and the positive battery terminal with a voltmeter to see if you have at least 11 volts or more when it is dead. If not wiggle the battery terminals and see if you can get anything to read on the attached volt meter.
  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    >>A Tahoe or Yukon with Turbo Deisel? Wow, that's one I've never seen.

    Yep, the older 2-door Tahoes and Yukons were available with a 6.5L (?) turbo diesel engine back in the early to mid 90's. Not sure what year they did away with that option. I know you could buy 2-door Yukons up to 1997, and 2-door Tahoes up to 1999.

    The turbo diesel engine Tahoes and Yukons go for stupid money, at least in my opinion. The engines might be durable, I suppose...but I can't see where a '95 2-door Tahoe with the TD engine is worth big bucks.
  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    I've got a 2000 Yukon with the 5.3L engine. It also has the "cold start" knock or piston slap or whatever you call it. I currently have 114,000 trouble-free miles, and it's had the cold-start knock since it was practically new.

    Just take it easy and slow, and accelerate real gently when starting out on a cold morning.

    I'm getting just a tiny bit of oil leakage between oil changes (drops on my garage floor), but with 114K miles and nothing spent other than oil changes, and 1 plug and wire set...I'm not complaining at all! I had my brakes checked last year at 95K miles...and they still have over 75% of the pad left.

    This has been an awesome truck. I keep thinking about perhaps replacing it with a newer Z71 Tahoe...or maybe even a used Land Cruiser. But dang, it's paid for and it never causes me a minute's problem, so it's hard to part with something like that.
  • frankf3frankf3 Posts: 96
    I had the same problem a few years ago on my GMC Jimmy. The dealer went nuts throwing parts at it, first the switch on the column (not it), then the control module (not it), then while trouble shooting it, they fried the replacement module and sent me home because they had to special order a part. I stopped at an auto part store and got a chilton's manual and traced the problem myself to a bad park switch that was inside the wiper motor assembly. Turns out this switch would "tell" the delay module when the wipers were in the home position. I got a new wiper motor installed and all was better. I went back to the dealer to get reimbursed for the wiper motor. This may or may not be the same for your year/model windshield wipers.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    When you sit down with a good manual and really study everything involved in how a wiper system operates, the delay function, mist function, how many wipes to a washer application, etc...

    Actually a rather impressive piece of design engineering when you consider the operating temp range and the operating life expectancy.
  • My wifes Tahoe will not start. It has 1 active P1133 code, and 2 pending, a P1133 and P1153. I borrowed a scan tool to check the codes. It started running badly while my wife was driving it, but it made it home. Now it will not start at all. I know the codes are for Heated O2 sensor. I thought this problem was fuel related because before my wife took it, the tank was almost empty. I dumped a couple cans of gas in it and she left. So far, I have changed the filter and dumped some dry gas in, but no luck. I am getting fuel in the fuel rail. It seems to want to start but will not. If I step on the gas pedal, it definately doesn't even think about starting. Just cranks. Any advice? I assumed it was getting spark, since it wanted to start. I am going to double check it tonight. Thanks
  • To anyone that can help in diagnosing a clicking sound I have coming from my rear drive shaft upper portion where the yoke and transfer case meet. I recently replaced all the rear universal joints. Before the replacement the u joints where slipping and there was a significant amount of vibration at higher speeds. Once the change out was complete everything was normal. But now I hear a clicking sound coming from the rear drive shaft upper portion where it connects to the transfer case and the vibration is back. There is also visible fluid leakage coming from that area to where the rear drive shaft upper portion and the transfer case meet. Can I get some suggestions to what may be going on and the best possible course of action that I may take to fix this problem? Thanks.
  • Hello,
    My 2001 Tahoe's "Check Engine Soon" light came on the other day. After a couple of days it started running like it was sputtering, losing power, etc. Also, the "Check Engine Soon " light started blinking while I was riding. I had Advance Auto parts read the codes and I had a P0300(rapid misfire) and a P0420 code. I thought, along with the guy working there, that I needed to replace the plugs. I Did. It still runs like crap. so, I figure maybe it is the plug wires. I had another place check the codes and Bank 1 ONLY is misfiring(cylinders 1,3,5,7). I switched the plug wires from the other side which did nothing. So I know the plug wires are good.Still misfiring on Bank 1 only.
    I have never seen 4 coils go out at the same time. So WHY is this truck running like this?
    Please help me in troubleshooting my problem! Any good advice will be greatly appreciated.
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