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Chevy Tahoe



  • Hi, I just bought a trooper with the 12 cd changer in the back, can anyone tell me how to eject the actual box that you slide the cd's into to load it with cd's, I have never had one of these types of cd changers and I have tried every button.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Lots of questions in the last few days and no one is tossing out ideas.

    Too busy dreaming of the '07 to respond?

    Full Test: 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe LT (Inside Line)

    Steve, Host
  • Has anyone encountered a rattling noise possibly emanating from the steering column? I heard this is something that is an inherent problem with chevy trucks. The noise is real noticeable when driving around the city that has undulating roads. It is verging between a rattling and a shaking noise, almost like a loose joint or something. Since I'm due for a service I'll have the dealer look into it, but I don't want them to tell me that it is not covered by the warranty. BTW, I have a 2003 Tahoe w/Z71 package. Thanks in advance!
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Very common on all pickups/SUV's. They replaced the steering shaft on my '03 Silvy. My '02 Tahoe had the same problme and they lubed it.
  • Thanks for the reply...I called the dealer and they said the exact same thing, but they said that it would (possibly) require replacing the steering shaft/sleeve. After they lubed your 02 (w/o replacing steering shaft/sleeve), did you still have that problem?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    The clunking began around 15k miles and got bad enough I complained at 20k miles. Sold the Tahoe at 40k miles and the rattling had not returned. My '03 Silvy started around the same 17k miles and I had it fixed around 20k. So-far so good but I'm just at 23k miles now. I don't drive the truck muchh and plan to sell it in the spring so I'll probably never know how it holds up long-term.
  • I have a 2001 tahoe and it seems to come back about every 20,000 miles. I have 85K miles on mine and I have had my steering lubed twice. Now it needs it again.
    I heard GM now has a permanent fix though. Check with them because i think they have a TSB on the problem.
  • jonnyb1jonnyb1 Posts: 32
    clunks and rattles like mad. I had them lube it at 28k but it came back at 50k and now I am just too lazy to take it in and put any more money into it...since I am trying to sell it.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    "Chevrolet has announced the starting price for its 2006 Tahoe, and it's a good one: $33,900, or a good $2,000 less than the price tag of the outgoing model."

    GM Cuts Prices on All Chevys, (Inside Line)

    Steve, Host
  • fjd44fjd44 Posts: 11
    While cutting the MSRP on a Tahoe by $2000 is great, how much have they cut the invoice price, which is the actual target price we expect to pay?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    GM's goal is to reduce MSRP and rebates. There is probably a slight increase in actual out-the-door price on '07 vs '06 models. I'm sure there are some dealers that will be trying to sell the '07's for MSRP but that won't last long. These don't appear to be that great when you get right down to it. I wouldn't pay much over invoice for one, same as the old models.
  • how do i get the battery out of my tahoe? i can't seem to see where it is bolted down.

  • oldestoldest Posts: 2
    Hi All,
    Just purchased a 2001 Tahoe w/ 44k miles. Is GM Certified as well.

    I have just a few questions. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

    1) About 10 minutes or so after starting the vehicle after it's been sitting for awhile and still at idle. I hear a noise in the rear end which sounds like something engaging or disengaging. It's a fast sound like a "thump" or something. Any ideas what this is?

    2) I noticed that when I rev the engine that the oil pressure gage goes up also and then back down when I let go of the gas. Is this normal?

    Thank you all.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    #2. Yes. Oil pressure goes up with engine speed and down at idle. Typical is around 35psi at idle and 60-70psi at highway speeds, 2500RPM or so.

    These are not hard and fast numbers as engine temp, oil viscosity, and the guage/sending unit all play a part. But the guage behavior you describe is quite normal. As long as the gauge doesn't go to zero or peg on the high end you are likely doing fine.

    Now, if you see gauge fluctuations without engine speed changes, check it out. I am talking erratic readings such as you would get with very low oil levels (sucking air up in the oil pan) or a failing sending unit.

  • oldestoldest Posts: 2
    Hi All,
    For the life of me I can not figure out how to turn on the front to lights with the clear lenses (not the fog lites). When I start up my 2001 Tahoe the headlites automatically come on. When I press the "dome lite" switch 4 times they go out but the 2 lites with the clear lenses below the headlites do not come on. I have changed the bulbs also. Any idea how to make them work?

    Thank you all.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    I've had 4 Tahoes including my new 06. My new one (unlike the other 3) has a transmission and/or power train that is noisy. When cold (in the garage where you can easily hear such things) I hear a metalic clunk when I shift into reverse. I don't hear it when it's warm. Is this something I should worry about?
  • Greg,

    I had my '01 Yukon taken in for some kind of fuel circuit assembly recall and a ground wire was somehow involved and when I started hearing static coming from what I thought was a speaker ( to the left of the driver, in the headliner ), I thought they didn't 'do' the ground properly. The static would come on when the vehicle started, and last about 10-15 miles or so, and though it sounded like static, leading me to believe it was speaker / radio / ground related, I'm very surprised to learn (from your posts and the posts of others), that apparently it's not at all related to that, that it's an aspirator and / or fan related to the ACC. Do I just pop off that little speaker-looking 'thing', and replace whatever's underneath, or . . . ? I've seen some mention of doing what may need doing by first removing the headliner, but that seems like more than I want to get in to . . . any advice you or others may be able to give is greatly appreciated, thank you.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    We had the aspirator replaced in our '04 Yukon on Monday. What does it say when a dealer has several of these little jewels in stock at all times? Hmmm?

    At least we still had 6K miles of warranty left. I have told dear wife (it's her car) to start paying close attention to squeaks, rattles, whatever so we don't end up paying for warranty items.

  • t1019t1019 Posts: 1
    Both my Driver and passenger doors on my 99 tahoe are not aligned properley. so theyr hard to open and close and scrape real bad how do I align them properley?
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Loosen the hinges and re-align. Best left to somebody that knows what they are doing.
  • I have a 05 base with the manual climate controls under the radio. Is it possible to upgrade to the digital control without major modifications?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    No. Have you used auto climate control? I've owned many and usually just run them in manual mode.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    No. Have you used auto climate control? I've owned many and usually just run them in manual mode.
  • Last night my Tahoe was broken into so I am looking for new 3rd row seats, oh yeah... a kick @$$ alram to install too. If anyone knows of a good alarm or where to get 3rd row seats plz let me know?

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    If the hinges are welded in place, you may only need to replace the hinge pins.
  • sorry bout that, it seems to be happening a lot in ft. worth, tx. Those 3rd row seat are being stolen all the time. look on ebay, thats probably where yours will end up, or as a couch in some punks apt. stereo shop for an alarm your best bet.
  • I have an 05 Z71 Tahoe. Is there any recommendations for a chip that will exhance performance and increase gas mileage at an affordable price. Also, has anyone tried the tornado fuel saver and does it work on a Tahoe?
  • tourguidetourguide Posts: 190
    I personally don't place much faith that programmers will do much for fuel economy. They will likely improve your performance, though not as dramatically as you may hope. The best thing you can do for increased fuel economy is develop a light foot and SLOW down. As far as tornado fuel savers go - forget it. They are snake oil and worthless.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Someone once told me, don't you think if car manufacturers could enchance the performance AND gas mileage of their cars with a simple computer chip, they would jump all over it and install it as original equipment? There are hundreds of engineers working at GM, I tend to trust their judgment more than some iffy aftermarket tuner.

    Having said that, if you actually accomplish this amazing feat with some cheap tuner chip and can prove the results, let me know and I'll go get one too!
  • aa555zzaa555zz Posts: 55
    When you press the dome override button 4 times you also disable the Daytime Running Lights.

    The Daytime Running Lights will come on when the following conditions are met:
    * The ignition is on,
    * The exterior lamps control is in automatic headlamp mode,
    * The automatic transmission is not in PARK (P),
    * The light sensor determines it is daytime,
    * The parking brake is released.

    If the light sensor determines that it is not daylight the headlights will come on instead of the Daytime Running Lights.

    Your owners manual explains in more detail how the automatic headlamp system and the Daytime Running lamp system work.
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