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Chevy Tahoe



  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    This engine uses the CPI injection system. I was not aware that the injectors could be replaced individually. This design also requires that a special sealant be added to the coolant after separating the intake manifold halves. He may have a vacuum leak in the manifold.

    Good luck. While the CPI design did greatly improve the fuel economy and horsepower of the 5.7L engine, it is definitely a strange little beast of an injection system.
  • I know he purchased the parts from his Chevy dealer with whom he has an excellent relationship with the Service Manager so I would think that if the injectors couldn't be replaced individually he would have told him - maybe I am wrong but one would think that the Service Manager would know and say something? OK, if there is the vacuum leak what is the sealer that has to be added to the coolant and can it be added now? or does he have to pull apart everything again - heaven forbid! :confuse:
  • Sorry, I forgot to ask, what is the name of the sealant that you speak of?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    My bad. The CPI engine uses a central injector with multiple nozzles. It must be the nozzles that he is replacing. The dealer will know about the sealer. I just know we had to replace the CPI unit several times on a 4.3L V6 and each time sealant was added to the coolant. Something about sealing leaks between the air intake of the manifold and the cooling passages.

    If he is not getting any error codes he must have all the sensors connected correctly. That is why I am thinking vacuum leak. Is the problem now the same as before he started the repair?
  • Well, the plot thickens. We went to try starting it up this morning and the battery is totally dead - nothing! Gary said he checked all the doors etc last night to make sure that nothing was open and he had had the battery disconnected while he worked on it but now its totally dead. I think he has almost given up in frustration. No, the problem we had before the repair was that the water would disappear and it was getting into the where the valve lifters were and then it mixed with the oil there. YUK! A mess to say the least. Well we shall see as he has decided to have it towed to the Chevy dealer tomorrow and get them to fix it now.... I'll keep you posted on the outcome as it may help others.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    We all wait with baited breath! :)

    Somewhere back in the old memories I recall an issue where an alternator problem caused the whole ECM system to just go nuts. Engine acting weird, guages all over the place, just totally nuts. Your hubby finding the battery dead for no apparent reason reminded me of this. Will be interested to hear what the dealer finds.
  • Check again. There is a subwoffer in the console upfront towards the front of the vehicle. If you stick you head in by the pedals you can shine a flashlight in behind the console and you will see a powered 6 1/2 inch sub woofer. Apprently Bose thought that location would be better then the rear where the regular non bose stero has its subwoofer.
  • I apologize in advance if this problem has posted before. I did do a search but could not find this exact problem.

    I bought a Used 2004 Tahoe from a dealership. In the deal I had them but on 22" that were on another Tahoe that was on the lot. When I drove away I noticed the "Tire Monitor Service" message. At first they thought the sensors just needed to be re-programed. After that did not work they ordered new sensors thinking it was bad sensors. After that did not work they told me know that my only option is to put the stock rims and tires back on. I am hoping there is are more options.
  • thanks very much, Jim . . . it means they know they have a bad part, and those who are under warranty get it for free, and those who aren't . . . well, I didn't have to tell you that . . . ;-)

    do you know if it was a big deal . . . ? Is it just a case of popping off that speaker looking 'thing' . . . ? One site I went to said I'd have to remove the headliner, but I don't want to get into that, and another said the amount the dealer would have otherwise charged is $80, so it can't be that big a deal . . . ?

    Ideally it's pop off the cover, disconnect / unhook the aspirator, and connect / hook up the new one . . . I hope so . . . 'dear wife' says she wants it fixed, now . . . ;-)
  • thanks very much . . . my doors are making a very irritating, and loud squeak that I would not think is at all related to their alignment, i.e. nothing a little WD-40 on the hinges won't solve, but after several 'squirts', I suppose I can't rule out anything. If the originl 'poster' or others with a similar experience, and cure (!!!), can reply, it will be appreciated . . . thanks agin . . .
  • The weather strip mounted to the body at the top of the rear doors rubs against the top metal part of the door edge on my 2000 Yukon and makes a loud squeak when the door opens or closes. A little silicon grease (not silicon sealer!) fixes that problem.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I wasn't there when they did the repair, but the parts guy said he was pretty sure it was a snap in/snap out. Even if the headliner has to come down, it shouldn't be that hard to get the section down over the drivers door. I think when you see the new part and can look at the attachment you will get a good idea of how to procede.

    I would just ask when you pick up the part. Any good dealer is willing to give info on a relatively simple repair. Good luck.

  • Read the various messages starting w/ #5563 thru #5608. I posted a number of messages regarding replacement & cost of the automatic climate control headliner mounted aspirator (fan).

    In message #5605 I posted the procedure as written in the GM shop manuals. It may sound complicated, but I believe it is not difficult based on the total GM warranty charge of less than $80.

    You do not, I repeat do not, need to remove the entire headliner, but do need to release headliner fasteners as described, & reach above it. You may find a shortcut to replacing it. As I stated, mine was replaced by the dealer under warranty, so I have no first hand experience in the replacing it myself.

    I do not believe that it can be replaced by merely removing the small round cover plate on the headliner, in fact I believe that cover may need to be released from above the headliner, and that you will likely damage the headliner and/or cover plate if you try to pry it off. The manuals I have are the actual GM shop manuals, but are the worst written manuals I have ever used. I wouldn't be at all surprised to hear that there is an easier method.

    If you do replace it yourself, be sure to post back here as to what you find. Good luck!!!

  • I have the same problem have yet to find the reason or the fix any help would be welcomed
  • manormanor Posts: 1
    I just put a new fuel pump in and now when I turn the ignition it cranks and I have to pump the throttle to get it to engage. Even when it does I have to keep pumping the gas or it will stall out. This must be a fuel problem right? I had the injectors cleaned and everything a month ago for its 90K service.

    Also Check Engine light went on and found nothing, after disconnecting battery it comes back on, is this normal?

    Please Help
  • tgarvtgarv Posts: 2
    Did you ever discover the cause of the hum? I just bought a 2006 Tahoe and am having the same problem. What did GM do for you? How was it resolved? Thanks for your time.
  • Changing the fluid can be a good idea.
    I just replaced all my fluid - transmission, front/rear differential, transfer case.
    The front diff fluid was grey ...
    The rear diff fluid was black and had water froth in it.
    The transmission was actually the best looking.
    I even did a full system flush on the ATF

    Best money I think I have spent as I did it myself
    Valvoline Syn Dexron 3, Mobil1 75/90 diff gear fluid and upgraded transfer fluid.
  • I'm interested in adding a trailer hitch to my new, 2005 Tahoe. Is a U-haul hitch the best option? Could the dealer add a GM hitch that would be better? Any comments or advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    "Sales of revamped Chevy SUV were up 50% in January despite slump in large-truck segment."

    Hot Tahoe fuels GM optimism (Detroit News)

    SRteve, Host
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The hitch that U-Haul sells is the same one sold by Discount hitch. I have used one and had good results. If you have a discount hitch dealer near by, you can usually save some $$$.
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    U-Haul vs GM hitch shouldn't make much difference. Somewhat depends on the load your towing. the GM hitch has the plug for the trailer lights. some after market hitches don't so your left with the wiring hanging down when not towing. (or you have to tuck it way)

    Other than that make sure you get the proper class of hitch for the job. I think the GM hitch is a class 4.

  • Just picked up an 04 Tahoe 24k mi loaded with every available option except the NAVI for $27,900.

    My Question ?

    Did the DVD player come with the wireless headphones and remote ? They were not in the vehicle at delivery.
  • The gauges on my original 1995 Chev Tahoe have been acting strange. The air bag light comes on, blinks and goes off. The oil pressure gauge drops to 0 then the check gauges light comes on. Also, some of the dashboard lights have gone out....coincidental?
    Any ideas?
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I have a question. The air filter cover in my 2005 Yukon XL (5.3) has an indicator to tell you when it needs changing. I have 9,000 miles, and as far as I can tell, it hasn't even moved from the green section. How long can I expect this filter to last? Am I reading it correctly? I seem to recall changing the air filter on my old cars around 12-15K, and they seemed very dirty. My vehicle has the "high capacity" air filter, as part of the towing prep package, whatever that is. Does that mean it will last longer, and/or breathe better?

    Also, if I upgrade to a K&N filter (just the filter, or the whole filtercharger intake kit), will that indicator still work? Will I have to disconnect it? How does it work anyway, is there some electrical connection so tat the message center on the dashboard will tell me to change it, like it does when I'm out of washer fluid?

    Just curious. Thanks for your input.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    The high capacity air filter used on these vehicles is a monster and can last for a very long (50K miles under low dust conditions) time. The indicator you are looking at monitors the vacuum draw in the air intake from the filter. As the filter becomes more contaminated, the vacuum increases. When the filter is "loading up", the vacuum will reach a point that it will trip the indicator to red, and you change the filter.

    This is a two-fold benefit in that you prevent premature filter changes, and you are not opening the intake path and exposing it to loose dirt and debris. If you feel you must examine the filter, make sure to clean any loose dirt away from the housings before opening. When you see how big that filter is, and how the whole intake system is integrated, you will understand the elegance and rational behind the design. Also you may notice that there are sections of the intake that do not appear to have any function, looking like "dead-end" passages that air does not flow through. These are tuning ports in the intake to dampen resonances in the system caused by rushing air. The engine can run fine without them, but at different throttle settings you can get roaring sounds from the air flow setting up sonic resonances.

  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    That is very interesting. What a smart design. I was going to ask about the "dead end" as well. I suppose I might as well not mess with the K&N thing after all.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    You will find opinions on both sides of the K&N filter choice, but I have found that the original high capacity filter does a good job, and doesn't require the cleaning and oiling maintenance of the K&N.

  • I have started to look into buying a larger SUV and was wondering what other SUVs are comparable to the Expedition and price. I have seen in different forums about the Nissan Armada, GMC Envoys, and Chevy Tahoes. I am very interested in the Expedition. Just want to know the different opinions of people that have owned either or all vehicles and what the experience has been. Thanks for the input. :D
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    That's kind of an open ended question. Go back and read the boards (5800 posts and counting...), and read the professional reviews, test drives, and comparison tests. Drive them yourself, check out the pricing, and make a decision.

    People on this board will probably agree that in general, the Tahoe/Yukon drives better than the Expedition, and is way more reliable than the Armada. And that the new 2007 GM SUVS raise the bar even higher, except for some subjective styling complaints. I know people who swear by each of the vehicles you list for various reasons.

    But opinions are like, um, belly buttons ;) - everybody has one. It's your call in the end. If I were you, I would do some independent research and then come back to the forums with more specific issues to be addressed. :)
  • The dealer doesn't do aftermarket hitches and referred me to UHaul. My problem with UHaul is esthetic: I don't like the way the hitch looks. It's a long horizontal bar that hangs way below the bumper. Unlike the hitches I've seen on other Tahoes, which is well disguised behind the bumper. The dealer said this is because the hitches I've seen are factory installed. Any aftermarket hitch will look like the UHaul hitch. Is this right? Thanks.
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