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Chevy Tahoe



  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    Could be.
    Mine is factory installed and is fairly well hidden.

    Back with my 91 S-15 Jimmy, I could get two different after-market hitches. One specific for the S-15 Jimmy or a universal fit one. The Universal fit hung much lower and was very visible and $25 less.

    Do a simple check with some parts stores they should be able to tell you more about the fit of after market-hitches. Maybe the U-Haul one is more of a universal fit?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Check on Valley Hitches. They are custom fits and generally available through Pep Boys.

  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Before you buy a Ford product Google "blown spark plug" and be amazed. After that go ask your 'would be' Ford dealer if they know anything about the problem.

    I had this problem with my Crown Victoria, which had the same design spark plug mounting as all 4.6 L engines at the time did.

    Mine went just two days before christmas two years ago and as Ford denied having any kind of a design problem with the engine regardless of hundreds of people writing about it in the internet I had to come up with $5000 to replace the engine. Nice Christmas present.

    One thing this experience did is that the Crown Victoria I had was my last Ford product I ever spend any money on.

    I would by a Tahoe. I travel almost 200 days per year and drive a lot of Hertz vehicles and as we know Hertz used to be owned by Ford meaning that most of the rental cars I drive are Ford products. I have had Explorers and Expeditions and I can say without any hesitation that they do not come even close to Chevrolet quality. One really annoying thing that I noticed was rattles coming from various places in the vehicles and these rental vehicles have less than 30 000 miles on them.

  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    I have a 2000 Silverado with 53K miles. The filter indicator has barely moved. I bought an air filter, cab air filter and fuel filter from gmpartsdirect over 3 years ago. Haven't replace any of these yet as there has been no need to. The truck has been driven in low dust and dirt conditions. I drive the 50th AE vette mostly.
  • We had a U-Haul hitch put on and the whole process was a nightmare! They lied to us about the price, then after it was done changed the price to a WAY higher past that issue...Now 6 months later we had an electrical fire and it was all due to their faulty wiring in back. The guy did not do it correctly and after some time it finally started a fire! And yes, it does not look like a good hitch. It hangs so low that with the trailer on, it will bottom out on driveways. Once we could not even get it backed into the driveway. It was resting on the street! We had to un hook the trailer and push it into the driveway! We had to buy a special piece from U-Haul to raise the trailer a little...Another added charge! Never again! Now we will get it already on our new SUV, for sure!
  • mm450excmm450exc Posts: 37
    I have a Hidden Hitch on my Tahoe which is excellent. All Tahoes have the wiring already in place. Look for a round plug. All you need to get is an adapter to hook up your trailer.
  • larigirllarigirl Posts: 1
    I know this is a little late on your question, but I just found this website. Very useful! I just bought a 1999 Tahoe, with 105,000 miles for $7,000, and I absolutely love it 100%, so I'm hoping you went ahead and got it for yourself!!! ***Lari Lee :)
  • dmgatordmgator Posts: 2
    After having owned a 1999 and 2001 Chevy Tahoe, I will not buy another Chevy vehicle after I get rid of the current one. I have a 2001 Tahoe with only 48,000 miles and have been easy on the vehicle with all service done at the dealer. My rear brakes have squeaked and the dealer says they are fine and that is normal for metalic pads. That is ridiculous to have a part that is working squeak like that. The second thing was having to replace ABS electronic which part alone was over $900 and a total of $1,200 installed by the dealer. With pricing like that, how much are the major components like a transmission or A/C going to cost. I will not be finding out because I will be done with Chevy for good.
  • piercemanpierceman Posts: 47
    My 2005 Yukon's wipers seem to be making noise at 65mph and higher when they are in the parked position. Seems like they are banging against the windshield. They are the Original equipment wipers.Noise goes away of I turn the wipers on

    Anyone else have this issue?

    Doesn't it sound like a reason to get rid of it for a 2007?
    The wife didn't buy that arguement either
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    "With pricing like that, how much are the major components like a transmission or A/C going to cost."

    Much more if its a import?

    A simple knock sensor for my subaru cost $260 to replace and the regular maintanence every 30K is about $550. At 90K miles I've spent $2200+ on reagular maint. and repairs (not including oil changes).

    Our 2003 Tahoe is at 45k. Zero maint. costs so far other than oil changes.

    Just a guess on the brakes, but due to limited miles it build up some surface rust on the disk/drum? Our previous van and current subaru squeaked or had a grinding noise when not driven often due to slight surface rust. Our Tahoe has the best brakes by far.

    Try a different dealer or just a local brake specialty shop.
  • Wanted to know if anyone has had any problems with there wipers not working? Last summer we drove our 97 Tahoe from Idaho to Michigan and had the wipers just stop. {several times} Eventually they'd come back on, I'm still having problems with it. My husband has the same problem with his 94 Chevy pickup. We bought them used so if there was a recall on the wiper motor, we, being a second owner wouldn't know if there was or wasn't. Any info would be much appreciated.
  • a68rsa68rs Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Tahoe LS with 33,000 miles on it. The heater fan doesn't work in the #1 & 2 settings. I tested it in another tahoe and it worked fine. Someone suggested that it could be the Blower Motor Resistor? If it is, where is it located in my Tahoe?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    It isn't the wiper motor, it is the control board. If you, or someone you know, is good with a soldering iron, the control board is mounted to the wiper motor and has a harness plugged into it. Unplug the harness, take the cover off the motor and remove the circuit board. The connector where the harness was plugged in is on the edge of the board. Check the solder connection of the connector to the board. You will most likely find the solder joints have cracked.

    Using solder-wick, remove the old solder from the circuit board. Resolder using rosin core (NOT ACID CORE) solder and reassemble.

    This is a very, very common problem caused by the wiring harness not being supported and the vibration being transferred to the connector causing the solder to crack.
  • I have a question, whenver I drive my tahoe at slow sppeds, for example, in parking lots, coming to a stop, in my drive way or stopping in my garage when I apply the brakes they seem to lock or just really grab. has anyone experienced anything similar and does anyone know what could becausing it? i have been to Midas and they replaced the pads, shoes and wheel cylindars and it stopped for awhile but now it's reaccuring?
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    I've decided to go with a hitch installed by my (wonderful) mechanic. Thanks for your comments.
  • kevinlsukevinlsu Posts: 2
    They may have a fix but they haven't told my dealer as of 2/27/06. :mad: The shaft was replaced 20,000 miles ago and the dealer rep said the "fix" isn't lasting as long as the original.
  • kevinlsukevinlsu Posts: 2
    I'd love to share that info with my dealer. They lubed mine on 2/27/06. I'd appreciate any info you can provide.
  • jp233jp233 Posts: 1
    I had this same problem on my 97 Tahoe and it's also a recall on the 2000+ GM trucks.

    Does the ABS kick in, or it feels like the wheels lock up momentarily? Mine happened at LOW SPEED.... like 2 mph. If so, what you need to do is remove the wheel, caliper, rotor, then dust shield. Then remove the wheel speed sensor (one bolt, it's got a wire going to it). Clean the sensor itself, the mounting surface for it (I used a steel brush to break up the light rust), and the bore in which it goes. Apply a light coat of high-temp grease to the whole thing and put it back together. Wouldn't hurt to bleed the front brakes while you are in there.
  • a68rsa68rs Posts: 2
    My '02 Tahoe had 24K miles on it when the steering shaft started knocking. They first lubed it to hold it over until they ordered the replacement part for it and it was installed a month later. The Chevy fix recall number was 02039.
  • fastmxfastmx Posts: 1
    bank one cat. clogged, change both.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    "The Tahoe -- with better fuel economy and added features -- has been on sale only since early January, but sales are up 49.8% from January and February last year."

    Tahoe puts rush on GM's SUVs (Detroit Free Press)

    Steve, Host
  • barryl1barryl1 Posts: 1
    Planning to purchase '03, '04, or '05 Tahoe or Yukon.
    Having trouble finding the 'right' one with side air bags.

    Is it possible for a dealer to install these things?
    Approximate cost for driver side & front passenger side?

    I've heard that the seat, etc must be replaced and some
    electronics installed.

  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I'm no expert, but I doubt very much that it can be installed aftermarket, and if it can, it would be labor intensive and expensive. You are probably better off finding one that already includes them. It was only about a $400 factory option, and I just can't imagine you getting them installed for anywhere near that amount. Where do you live? They are such popular vehicles I would think you would have plenty on the market. Even if you had to pay for a transport through Carmax or whatever, that would probably be more cost effective.
  • jsc4jsc4 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe with 75,000 miles. A week ago I started experiencing a problem that I can't seem to figure out. When I try to pump gas into my tank, the pump clicks off repeatedly as if the tank is full, but the tank is not full. I can see the gas coming up and then filtering down into the tank, and I can eventually get the tank full - at a pace of about $1-$5 at a time (and yes, I've tried numerous gas stations). I took the truck to my regular servicer and they "scoped" the hose to the gas tank and inspected the gas tank - no hose blockages were found, and the only thing with the gas tank that appeared to need service was one "seal" (no idea what this is). They also "flushed" the fuel system. I'm still having the problem though, albeit a little more intermittently - I can get $10-$15 at a time in now, followed by spurts of $1-$5. Also, I'm noticing a ringing sound coming from around my gas tank, but I can't confirm that it is actually coming from the gas tank. Any ideas as to what the problem might be here, and more importantly, what to do about it? Thanks.
  • I dropped a friend off tonight and turned down the music and noticed when my foot was on the brake in gear, forward or reverse i heard some sort of squeaking, and again at home in teh garage. I couldnt notice a change when driving over 10mph, nor in park the squeaking was gone. I have a hunch it is the transmission. The truck has somewhere near 100k miles and is like 3k over an oil change >.< its too damn cold out and I prefer doing stuff myself. What are these symptoms of? Could it be because of no oil change? I heard the sound almost directly in or under the engine..somewhere in there?! let me know!
  • zoltarpzoltarp Posts: 4
    Yes there was a faulty solder joint on the circuit board. Please talk to you local dealers service department. There was a recall.

  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    Possible, but it would be so labor intensive (new seats, new wiring, new electronic componentry and sensors), that there would be no way to make it worth it.

    There are a TON of these trucks out there that do have the side bags, just keep looking.

    Actually, strangely enough, we had an '02 Avalanche that had them (back when they were standard, like they should have always been), then bought an '04 Suburban that didn't have them...very weird to be moving up 2 model years and almosgt $8k extra in price, but not get something as basic as side airbags. I asked one of the local dealers, when they became an option, why they never ordered any with them, and was told "Well, most people who buy such a large full-frame vehicle could care less, and the lower we keep the MSRP, the better." Dumb excuse if you ask me, but this is the same place who said buying a 4wd model, even if you never used it once, was better than getting a 2wd just because it would be worth more in the end...
  • ace003ace003 Posts: 4
    So I have a 99 Tahoe that I like to make "get up and go". Well I have a problem that reacently popped up. When I put the gas all the way down it doesn't take off like it use to. The engine and the RPMs go full throtle like they are suppose to but the truck hardly increases in speed. Its as if the transmission isn't sending the power to the back wheels. Or the transmission isn't kicking into gear. And as long as I hold the gas down it continues to do this. I have to let off the and press down slowly to get it up to speed, which is no fun. So if anyone knows what the problem is I would appreciate the words.
  • ace003ace003 Posts: 4
    Has anyone ever bought and installed a PowerTrax No slip locker in thier differential? If so is it easy to do and is it worth the money and effort?
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    How many miles on that Tahoe?
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