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Chevy Tahoe



  • Can anyone tell me about the homelink system. The manual doesn't tell you anything. I know it was an option, which I didn't get, but they controls are in the overhead and they light up so I assume if I want to buy the hand held transmitter I can. Is it just another garage door opener? If so not worth the money I guess.
  • This is primarily for opening/closing garage doors, but with outside equipment (such as that from x10, radio shack, etc), you can also turn on lights or any other electrical equipment. The device is an RF based transmitter (like a garage door opener), and can be programmed for specific frequencies.
  • I will second Matt's question in post #539 because there has been no response. Is anyone leasing their Yukon? What kind of deal did you get? Dealers advertising $5000 off MSRP but usually states not for lease. What types of deals anybody getting on leases? I would be interested too. Thanks in advance.
  • kreykrey Posts: 41
    You may have more luck posting this question on the Finance/Warranty board.
  • As I'm sure you know, leasing is on the way out.
    It's no longer inexpensive. National City and GE Capital just stopped leasing all vehicles. As for the Yukon, GMC has a program that lasts until March, I believe. It was $536+tax/36 months with $2,110 down on a Yukon with a retail of around $36,000. That is just an SLE with 3rd seat. I checked around and if you go through other leasing companies you can get a completely loaded one for the same price. If you go through GMAC they give you a $750 rebate but its still no deal.
    Leasing has become very expensive. Expeditions are in the $600++ range with $1,000 down. You used to be able to get them for $500/month tax included and loaded!! Good luck!
  • I am new to this board, but I have a basic question. Are there any differences between the Tahoe and the Yukon, including, but not limited to suspension, etc.? Also, is one viewed more highly than the other? I am not trying to cause any controversy, but a Chevy sales person made some unflattering remarks about the Yukon and I thought they were basically the same. Can anyone shed some light on this for me. Thanks.
  • kreykrey Posts: 41
    Other than cosmetics (the bow tie, grille, the leather used in the high-end seats, etc,), they're exactly the same. Their option packages are a little different so it's easy to think of them as different vehicles, and this is responsible for most of the confusion. The bottom line is you can buy a stripped down Tahoe, whereas you really can't with a Yukon; option out a Tahoe, however, and you're at virtually the same price point (MSRP) as a Yukon. Often, though not always, it's easier to make a deal on a Tahoe because there are so many more Chevy dealers than GMC dealers. Simple competition.

    Mechanically, however, they are IDENTICAL; they're even made on the same production line. And, as is always the case, if a salesperson doesn't sell 'em, he'll knock 'em.
  • kreykrey Posts: 41
    A friend has a 2000 Yukon and waited for that idiot light to come on after his first oil change at 3K...after the odometer hit 12K, with no idiot light, he gave me call. I looked at the dipstick and it was BLACK. Like I said, oil's cheap, motors are not.

    One of my first IP's (instructor pilots) told me, "Computers are great, but God put the very best one built right between your ears. Use it."
  • thanks for the lease information. I have leased cars in the past and have done ok (can write-off some of the payment) - i will have to see what is the better option for me now. Thanks again.
  • If your friend didn't get a infromation center light, he should have it fixed. I think you know what message center I am talking about. It is the one that flashes "Security" when the door is open and shows at battery when the ignition is turned on. I have found mine to very accurate! I have a friend that has two trucks, and his are accurate. My brother in law used to work for a guy that ran a fleet of six trucks and the owner had a Yukon XL and he sad they all worked fine! But like you said common sense should always rule over a computer/sending unit. There is a way to reset it and if your friend does that by accident it would ignore the sensor anyway, or at least that's what the dealer told me yesterday.
  • I really don't complain much about my vehicles, if there's a little rattle, it happens in most cars and I can't blame the manufacturer for which potholes I hit to make the noise!! BUT, 17 days and I have the weirdest problem. If I turn the wheel hard and give it a lot of gas "the cargo liftgate ajar" light comes on, the interior lights come on and my doors lock and unlock. Checked the cargo door, its closed!! I don't feel like sitting in the dealer for a few hours, so I'm going to deal with it for now. Anyone else have this experience?
  • I had the same problem with the "rear cargo door ajar" message shortly after bringing home a new Denali XL. I closed the hatch hard a few times and the message has not returned (several weeks later). I think its simply a matter of the new gaskets around the rear hatch requiring more force to close when they are new. The issue seems to have gone away as the hatch has been used more frequently.
  • I thought I was nuts and was going to be in to more problems already. Glad to hear I'm not alone! Its funny because I usually only open the glass but opened the whole door for the first time and that's when it started. Thanks!
  • Just about ready to purchase a 2001 Tahoe LT 4WD and wanted to know if anyone had a recommendation for a suspension lift kit. My purpose for the lift is more aesthetic than functional. This will be my first SUV and first lift, any tips? Does a lift void any warranties?

    Thanks for your help.
  • Just thought I would pass on a little info I found out this afternoon. A GMC dealer in Northern VA stated there is a $1000 customer rebate on the Yukon SLT. Not too sure of the exact details though. Can anyone confirm or deny?
  • cody17cody17 Posts: 11
    If you have a problem with your new Yukon, don't bother calling GMC Customer Assistance. All they do is tell you to contact the dealer. If the dealer was already no help, that's not a very worthwhile suggestion.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Edmunds is only reporting regional APR incentives for your area (but we may not have the very latest data):Incentives, Rebates and Leases

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • Check out the homelink website. They have tons of info on the homelink system.
  • My truck is 1 year old this month. What a great
    vehicle. Only had one problem, a rattle in the steering wheel. The upper steering shaft assy had
    to be replaced. It took the dealer less than 1 hour to fix. Thats it. At about 8000 miles had a high quality synthetic motor oil change. Oh boy!
    What a difference! Ten times smoother at idle,
    acceleration, starting.... magnificent. Highly recommend it.... worth the extra money. But allow
    a good break in period first,5000-8000 mi.
  • Anyone out there buy an LT Tahoe? If so, what was the price you paid? I was originally looking at an LS Tahoe, but I like some of the features of the LT, but I'm concerned about the difference in price.
  • Recently bought a base Tahoe with only one pkg (a/c, rear defogger, cruise, deep tint). The sticker was 27,216 but had addit'l add ons for 'after mkt' and 'emissions' which made the total 29,966. I got the salesman to throw those completely out (whew) and sell it to me for invoice of 24,160. I also had GM card rebates of 1,500, so ended up with a new 2001 Tahoe for 22,600. Just thought this might help someone. I think I came out OK. Not much on bells & whistles.
  • 4him4him Posts: 1
    I was thinking about doing something like this. Did you have to special order the base with your package? None of the dealers in my area carry the stripped down. They seem to all start around 31K and go up. I test drove a Tahoe last night and I really liked it, but I don't want to spend too much for a vehicle. Can you tell me how the gas mileage really is? I drive around 45 miles a day (in the city) and I don't want to spend $200 a month on gas. I am also considering the 4runner.
  • Was out shopping for a new Tahoe, and ran across what seems to be a great deal. I can get a LT (MSRP $41,660) for $35700. The only thing missing is the rear radio controls or something like that. Not a big deal. Price does not include tax, tags or processing fee. Anyone out there got one for a better price?
  • Anyone with a 95 tahoe / yukon which they care to comment on. I',m looking to buy a used one and am wondering about the RELIABILITY of this year.. The prices in Ca. range from 15000-17000. Going to be used for hunt/fish/camp.....
  • I posted the following GMC tow capacity information in the AWD vs 4WD forum and thought it might be of interest to those that visit this discussion. Sorry for the long post. All of the figures below are for the 2001 model year.

    The highest 2wd Yukon tow rating is 7,900lbs with a 5.3L and 3.73 rear. The other 3 configurations for a 2wd Yukon provide the following tow ratings: 6900lbs with 5.3L & 3.42 rear, 6900lbs with 4.8L & 3.73 rear, 5,900lbs with 4.8L & 3.42 rear.

    The highest 4wd Yukon tow rating is 8,700 lbs with a 5.3L & 4.10 rear (4.10 rear not available in 2wd Yukon). The other 3 configurations for a 4wd Yukon provide the following ratings: 7,700lbs with 5.3L & 3.73 rear, 7,700 lbs with 4.8L & 4.10 rear, 6,700 lbs with 4.8L & 3.73 rear.

    The Denali has a tow rating of 8,500lbs with a 6.0L, 3.73 rear and AWD. (This is the only configuration.)

    The highest 2wd 1/2 ton Yukon XL tow rating is 8,800 lbs with a 5.3L & 4.10 rear. The other configuration for a 2wd 1/2 ton Yukon XL is 7,800lbs with 5.3L & 3.73 rear.

    The Denali XL has a tow rating of 8,400lbs with a 6.0L, 3.73 rear and AWD. (This is the only configuration.)

    The highest 4wd 1/2 ton Yukon XL tow rating is 8,600 lbs with a 5.3L & a 4.10 rear. The other configuration for a 4wd 1/2 ton Yukon XL is 7,600lbs with 5.3L & 3.73 rear.

    The highest 2wd 3/4 ton Yukon XL tow rating is 12,000lbs with the 8.1L & 4.10 rear. The other 3 configurations for a 2wd 3/4 ton Yukon XL are 10,900lbs with 8.1L & 3.73 rear, 10,300lbs with the 6.0L & 4.10 rear, 8,300lbs with the 6.0L & 3.73 rear.

    The highest 4wd 3/4 ton Yukon XL tow rating is 12,000lbs with the 8.1L & 4.10. The other 3 configurations for a 4wd 3/4 ton Yukon XL are 10,500lbs with 8.1L & 3.73 rear, 10,000lbs with the 6.0L & 4.10 rear, 8,000lbs with the 6.0L & 3.73 rear.
  • Hey Matt if that price of 35700 included autoride a sunroof and is 4 wheel drive call me up and I'll buy one also
  • Am looking at the Yukon Denali.

    1. Any idea about how close to invoice I should be able to get the Denali? Any suggestions about dealers in the Massachusetts area? Very few GMC dealers in my area.

    2. Can I order this via a Chevy dealer or have it serviced there under warranty?

  • londonfin: Not sure what the GMC dealers are like in Mass. but you should be able to order a Denali or XL somewhere between $500 and $1000 over factory invoice and consider that a competitive deal. It won't be easy but most dealers will find this an acceptable deal and would rather have this range markup over nothing. I don't know if you can order a Denali through a Chevy dealer however I doubt it. I do believe you can have it serviced at a Chevy dealer although I believe not all Chevy dealers will service a GMC. Best to check first.
  • I am looking to buy a new car, as I have just been informed that my 1990 honda accord needs a new clutch and transmission (this after just having to replace the ECU about 2 months ago). I am seriously considering buying a 2 door, 4WD yukon or tahoe (depending on how much and exactly what I can get for my money). I have several questions:
    1. First and foremost, do you suggest I buy one of these SUVs? After looking through the message boards, I have been surprised to see all the negative comments (such as rear window defrosters failing, power window problems, etc.).
    2. For the money, what is the best year I should buy (I would like to buy used). It seems to me like the 1996 is the best.
    3. Should I look for an LT or is an LS a better value for the money? Either way, I will be modifying the truck, so should I buy the factory modified one and continue with the mods, or should I get the base model (because the LT options suck)?
    4. Any other useful info would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • Stan,

    Thanks for the input. I'm not too sure about the autoride feature, but it's Four Wheel drive and does have the roof. Minus, the rear radio controls.
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