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Chevy Tahoe



  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Article Comments: 2007 Full-Size Domestic SUVs Comparison

    The Expedition owners have already been primed so join in the talk there.
  • I took my truck into the dealer to fix the following (posted previously): exhaust popping, intermediate steering shaft noise, and DIC language issue. Their response as follows: exhaust popcorn noise is "normal" expansion noise - not fixed; steering shaft - fixed by greasing; DIC language issue - not fixed as they could not reproduce it. Told me someone must have accidentally hit the buttons on the steering wheel. Of course, this is bunk, as I am the only one who uses my truck. I hope I can prove it to them so they will fix it. Service writer stated that they did not want to install a $600 part unless it was really needed. I will try again when the issue recurs, and if I am not satisfied, I will escalate it up the chain (service manager, dealership owner, regional manager, etc.). I've got six or seven months left of the warranty, so I have a bit of time.

    Thanks to all who helped me confirm the intermediate steering shaft problem. I guess I will end up buying the kit and greasing it myself next time it happens.
  • I am receiving a service 4wd light once in a while. 4wd works ok. what could be the problem?


  • I called the Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center. The phone number is listed in the owners manual.

    My vehicle had low mileage when the transmission broke, which is probably why they agreed to pay some of the repair bill. If your vehicle has high mileage the results may be different.
  • my tahoe misfires when I turn it on, then after a while it kinda smoothes out. Some times it starts finefor days with no problems at all but then it might start misfiring for no reason. It feels like a horse trying to get out of the stable. I changed the plugs, gas filter but everything is the same. Help Please !!!!!
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Might check plug wires or someplace in the ignition system that could have moisture in it.
  • I just replaced my spark plugs & spark plug wires on my 04 Tahoe Z71. The owner’s manual and dealer tell you that the stock plugs are good for 100,000 miles. BS, on all 8 of my plugs the tips where a dark brown in color. I had 51,300 miles on stock plugs. They use AC Delco spark plugs, which were obviously bad. I replaced them with the E3 spark plugs. I bought the new E3 spark plugs at Kragons for $5.99 each; this is less than half the price most places are charging for the Denso Iridium plugs. The E3 plugs are a 3-prong plug in which all the prongs are attached together at the top. They look very cool and are suppose to give a lot better and hotter ignition burn of the fuel. By the way, my Tahoe was running great prior to me changing out the plugs and wires. You can not tell by the way it runs or the mpg it gets if the spark plugs need to be changed. On my last tank of gas I got 18.2 mpg with the bad plugs & plug wires. I suggest that the plugs be inspected at a very least at 50,000 miles if not sooner. 100,000 miles is way too many miles. They were all easy to get to except the one in the back on the passenger side. There wasn't much room to get a socket in there. Also there is a heat shield around each spark plug. The spark plug wires go through the end of the heat shields and attach to the spark plug. There is a spring on the inside of each heat shield. You can not see the spring until you pull the spark plug wire off the spark plug. This is very hard to do because of the tension between the spring and spark plug. You will need at a very minimum a pair of Channel lock pliers or pliers to pull the spark plug wires off of the spark plugs. It is amazingly hard to get the spark plug wires off of the spark plug.
    I also replaced my spark plug wires with MSD 8.5MM Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires. They are a lot better than the stock plug wires and only cost $64.95 for the set @ I recommend these plug wires or if you could afford to put out $283.00 plus S&H & Taxes then buy the Nology Hotwire spark plug wire set. Don't wait until 100,000 miles to change out your plugs and 150,000 to change your plug wires. You will be happy you did it. In addition, you will not need to put the heat shields with the springs inside them back on when you use either of these spark plug wires. I’ve read from a previous post that someone said the springs where caring some of the spark from the coil through them, and grounding out on the heads causing a little loss of power and mpg. He said you could see this at nighttime. I didn’t check it out prior to changing my spark plug wires but it does make since that they would by the way they are installed. So this is good information about taking these springs off. They are not visual do to they are inside the heatshield. I recommend that if you buy a better spark plug wire set then just don’t put the heat shields with then springs in them back on. I guess you could try and remove the springs from the shield also. But by the time you get the shields off using a pair of pliers you won’t want to put them back on, believe me.
    To the person who has his tires air sensor light that comes on and stays on, this means that one of your tires has below the recommended tire pressure, or the monitor is broken. I see that you said you took your monitors out. This will make the DIC come on every time you start up. You can clear this out, but after you turn off the ignition and then turn it back on, the message will reappear. I have 45psi in my tires. I run 305 70R16. I just changed my tire pressure to 45psi. At 45psi compared to 35psi I get approximately 2 more mpg and my Tahoe rides a lot smoother. If your tire pressure drops below I believe it’s 28-psi the indicator light and your DIC will let you know. My sensors work great and have let me know in the past when one of my tires had a slow leak and the tire pressure dropped. I have an air pump I plug into the lighter, which works great for pumping up the tires. I bought it at Wal-Mart for around $10.00. It’s small and also has a light on it so you can see at night if you need to. I keep it in the back of my Tahoe and recommend this to everyone.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312

    Just to clarify the issue with removing the heat shields around spark plugs as I think you refer to some of my postings.

    The little spring in the end of the aluminum heat shield is there, I believe, to prevent a spark from forming between the shield and engine parts close to it. This would be a safety feature since a spark under the hood could ignite some gasoline fumes if a leak in fuel line or something similar should happen.

    For this reason I DO NOT RECOMMEND REMOVING THE SPRINGS ONLY. Removing the shield and spring together is ok if you use spark plug wires that do not need the shield, like I do.

  • Johnny, I appreciate your help, I will change the spark plug wiring since I have already changed the plugs, gas filter and the oxygen sensors. But what I don't get is, my tahoe works fine for a day or so but then it feels like its miss firing or not idling correct. I press on the gas pedal to make it stop misfiring. When I take off it feels fine and runs great. But when I stop I feel that its jumping or misfiring. thanks for your help.
  • Danger64 it sounds like your going through the process of elimination. I have done this myself several times on my vehicles to try and fix a problem. You start with the most obvious choice and then work your way down the list until you find a cure. The only problem with this type of process in the Tahoe and other new vehicles now is that there are just to many sensors and other computer related parts in our vehicles. But if your going to try and save hundreds in mechanical fees this is the best way to do it that I'm aware of. I would first plug in the analyzer below your steering column and let it read your system to make sure you have no codes come back. This will tell you what is wrong exactly if a code does come back. I bought my analyzer at auto zone years ago and paid $180.00 for it, I believe you can get it for around a $100.00 now if you wanted to buy one. Auto Zone also lets you use it for free in front of their store and will even show you how to use it if you’re not sure. But it’s, as easy as tying your shoes and from the sounds of your post you wouldn't have any problems. Last night I was reading through the information online for my 2004 Tahoe Z71 On Star vehicle diagnosis. You wouldn't believe how many sensors are tested for operation during the On Star monthly check, I didn't count them all, but would say there was over 50 different sensors that are checked. Each one sounds like they could cause the problem that you’re having. Normally if a sensor does go bad your check engine light comes on. This is where the analyzer comes in real handy and can tell you what exactly is wrong. If you had this problem continually without any interruptions I would say to check your coils. Start up your vehicle and being very careful not to shock yourself, unplug a coil wire one at a time and listen for any changes in your engine. If there is a change that is good. It means that coil and cylinder, etc is working. Go through this step with each coil wire. Unplug it at the coils, as this is the easy place to do it. If you come across one that has no change when you unplug it then this cylinder is not functioning correctly. It could be the coil, wire, spark plug or something much worse. But at least you have isolated the area of concern. Next would be to find out why it's happening. If you have already replaced your plugs, then you might try exchanging the plug wire on that cylinder with one of the other ones. If it corrects it then you know that it was the plug wire. If not then the next step I would take would to be to check the coil. You could do the same thing as you did for the spark wire as far as I know there is no difference in the coils. If it corrects it doing this then you again know what the problem is. I have noticed on my Tahoe a few times that it feels like someone is stepping on the brakes. I would be going down hill or on a highway with the cruise control on and it just feels as if the brakes are being applied. Later on, on those days I would receive the monthly email notice from OnStar. So I'm wondering if while they test our vehicles and the entire sensors etc. if it effects the way are Tahoe’s drive. It seems that every time that OnStar does this monthly check and I'm driving my Tahoe I have that problem where it feels like someone is stepping on the brakes. I hope that this information helped. One other thing, on my 89 Ford Taurus I had the same problem as your having. I went through all the things you've done and more. I finally checked the fuel pressure and found that it was very low. So all of the new parts spark plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor, coil, etc was a waste of money. It was my electronic fuel pump. And of course it is in the gas tank and not easy to remove and replace. But once the fuel pump was replaced my Taurus did not miss anymore and ran like new again. Another time it was doing the same thing and it turned out to be the MAP sensor. This was an easy an inexpensive fix. It is located on the firewall about dead center on the Taurus. 2 screws holding it on and a couple of vacuum plugs. Once the MAP sensor was replaced my Taurus ran fine again. So you see you can never tell what the problem is right off the bat. You might get lucky and the 1st thing you buy might fix it. Obviously you haven't had such luck. I hope that this information helped. I would go to an Auto Zone and if there isn't one around you then go to any auto parts store and either try or buy the analyzer out to make sure that your Tahoe sends back no codes. If it does then you've found a problem that needs to be corrected.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    If you put some dielectric grease in each sparkplug boot, you won't have any problem removing next time. GM used to do that when they went to the HEI system but sounds like they quit.

    Also read in a service manual that you shouldn't pull the coil wire without grounding it as hard on the coil. Not sure if applies to coil-on-plug systems now in use.

    I agree on fuel pump as possible cause. Check fuel pressure. A bad fuel pump can cause some strange symptoms.
  • Believe it or not there was still quit a bit of grease on each plug boot. The tension from the spring is just unbelievably that tight. I have kept all my spark plug wires, spark plugs and shields but will probably never use them again.

    Does anyone know where the microphone is located for the OnStar phone system? This is why I was looking through my owner’s manual. All it says is if you are in the driver’s seat to face the steering wheel when talking and if you are in the passenger seat to face the rearview mirror when talking. Where is the Microphone located? The manual doesn’t say where it is.

    I have drove approximately 15 or more miles since the Plugs & Wires were changed. One thing I've notice is my Tahoe it not having to pull as many RPM's to shift out of 1st, 2nd and so on from a compete stop. I try to keep my RPM under 2K from a stop to getting up to the driving speed and when driving to save on gas. Keeping my RPM’s fewer than 2K my top speed was usually between 65 & 70mph with the old plugs and wires, which was fast enough for me. With the old spark plugs and wires I could barley touch the gas pedal to keep my RPM’s fewer than 2K when taking off from a stop. Now I’ve noticed that my Tahoe is shifting a lot faster from 1st to 2nd and so my RPM’s do not climb as fast. I'm not trying to upgrade for more power; I'm trying to get better mpg. Getting more power is an added bonus for me, and the more power does help since I tow my trailer several times a year. I haven’t drove on the freeway yet, but I’m sure that I will notice a big difference once I do.

    I did find another reason why at least my Tahoe feels like the brake are being applied once in a while, while the cruise control is on. I was again reading through the owner’s manual yesterday and came across a section that talked about the air system, etc in the Tahoe. Apparently for some reason, I can't remember exactly what the manual said, but the computer applies the brakes if you’re going down hill, etc. for safety reasons. Personally I don't like that it does this. You can feel it when it happens. I have traveled to a place up in the Sequoias the past few weeks. There is a road that goes up the mountainside for about 15 miles before you reach the top. Going up you don't feel the brakes being applied. Going down hill with the cruise control on in certain areas you can differently feel as the brakes are being applied. While your cruise control is still on and your speed is 60mph the brakes are being applied. It seems like a waste of gas.

    I also found out some more very useful info in the manual. I will have to go read through it again, probably several more times to fully understand all the options that my Tahoe has on it. The stable Trac system, the air system that levels off the vehicle, etc are all quit amazing to read. I was wondering what that noise was which sounds like an air compressor being discharged was when I turn off the ignition? Now I know, or at least I think I do. I believe that it is the air compressor that is used to level off the Tahoe being exhausted when the ignition is turn off. It sounds like the big rigs when they stop and apply their air brakes. I had no idea my Tahoe had this leveling system installed in it. There are several other features that are installed on my Tahoe with the Auto 4-wheel drive system, etc that I knew nothing about. I know that I will have to read my owner’s manual again several more times to understand all the equipment on my Tahoe. :)
  • I have a 2007 Tahoe and put some subs in the back but i still have the stock radio (so my OnStar) will work. We bought the little module thing to put behind the head unit but we still cant get the subs to work, anyone have any idea?!?!?!
  • blink3blink3 Posts: 74
    I put my 2003 Tahoe in the garage last night no problems. I replaced a bulb that had blown (Right Side Day running light) and now the thing will not start. starter spins, acts like it will fire just one revolution. Like something is cutting it off. Any ideas????? I am stuck.

  • blink3blink3 Posts: 74
    When I put it up, I was low on gas, but the light had not yet come on so I figured I had around 5 gals left. Guess not. I got under and hit the plastic tank and heard no sloshing. Threw about a gallon in and it fired up. Hmmmmmm. Guess I better not rely on that gas light any more.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Just curious but what did your fuel gauge say?
  • Does anyone know where the microphone for the OnStar telephone is located? I own a 2004 Tahoe Z71. They are probably all located in the same place no matter what year the Tahoe is.

    Also I can't seem to get an answer from any auto parts store about the Transfer Case or the type of fluid to use in it. My manual says to use Auto Trac II and even gives a part number. Auto Zone, Pep Boys, Wal-Mart and Kragons, none of them carry Auto Trac II on their shelves and their computers don't give any information for the Transfer Case, etc. This is unbelievable. Does anyone know if Auto Trac II is the same type of fluid as your Transmission uses? My Transmission is supposed to use Dextron III. I might just have to go to the dealer and pay and arm & a leg for transfer case fluid it sounds like.

    One last question? As mentioned above my Transmission uses Dexron III according to the manual. I've been advised by my brother in-law who's been a Mechanic for over 25 years at a Chevy Dealer that you have to use the right transmission fluid. He said that now a day’s there are several sensors in your transmission and they know if the type of fluid you put in it is wrong and could mess up your transmission if you use the wrong type. He said that just because it say's Dexron III doesn't mean that it's the right transmission fluid for your transmission. I bought some Mobile 1 synthetic transmission fluid at Auto Zone today. It say's on the back of the bottle that it's for Dexron III. It also say's that it is for Dexron II, Dexron and several other types along with being able to use in Ford, Chryslers, and several other makes. Does this sound right? Can one type of Transmission fluid be used as if it where several different types of fluid on several different makes of vehicles?

    2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71:
    1. OnStar Microphone?
    2. Transfer Case fluid?
    3. Transmission fluid?
  • blink3blink3 Posts: 74
    fuel gauge was just hitting the red. I have gone well into the red many times before, then the light comes on. I have gone another 20 miles with the light on. Dont know why this time it was so off. Weird.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    My 2007 Tahoe fuel lite didn't come on once but has since so not sure what happened. The range on the DIC is usually pretty accurate.
  • Did you ever get an answer to your question?

    The reason I ask is because my 2004 Tahoe Z71 right side day running light also does not come on. I haven't taken it out to see if it is blown or not yet. I did take off the headlight assemble since it is only held on by the 2 pins. I attempted to pull the day running light assemble out, but couldn't get it to come out and I didn't want to break the plastic by forcing it out. So I've put it off for a day when I have more time to take it off with out breaking anything and when it's a little warmer outside.

    Is this a common problem with this particular light? If so then maybe it should be recalled. Also if it causes something in the electrical system to screw up starting your Tahoe then I will just leave it as it is. Let me now if you figured out if your engine troubles are related to the light bulb replacement.

    Anyone else out there that has also had this particular light that has stopped functioning pleases posts messages and let us know. If it is a problem with more than just 2 Tahoe's then something must be wrong and should be recalled.
  • I just had my Transmission fluid and filter changed. After about 40 miles on the road my heater started blowing cold air? I turned it of and on several times and it still just blew cold air. The outside temperature was about 39 degrees and the engine temperature gauge was reading it's normal temp of around 200 degrees.

    I went into Wal-Mart and came out a couple of hours later. On the way home I turned on the heater and it is now working fine. I have driven it a couple more times since and the heater is still working as normal.

    I was wondering if this could have happened because I had the mechanic put in Full Synthetic transmission fluid instead of just straight Dexron III and the transmission sensors were effected?

    I've never heard of this before, but seems strange how it happened right after the transmission fluid was changed.

    What ever the cause was, I pray that it doesn't happen again, at least not in the winter when the outside temp is running between 10 & 40 degrees.

    Has this happen to anyone else, where their heater started blowing cold air for known reason?
  • blink3blink3 Posts: 74
    Hey! on the right side, there is a rubber mat next to the radiator. Run your hand down it and it will have a access port in it. My hand barely fit in it. you can pull the bulb fixture out that way. The wire it too short to pull the whole thing out so you will have to use one hand to hold the base and pull the bulb out at the same time. It can be done, just have to have strong dexterous fingers.

    Good luck.
  • If anyone is interested,
    The microphone for the OnStar system is located on your rear view mirror.
    The Transfer Case will only take Auto Trac II. This is only sold by a Chevy dealer. I asked the dealer several times if it was the same type of fluid as Dexron III, Gear Oil, or was it a special weighted fluid? I was again advised that you could not put anything else besides Auto Trac II into your Tahoe’s Transfer Case. This is not to good for us that like to shop around and get the best prices, etc.
    Just a reminder for those of you who did not see my post on the spark plugs. Don't wait until you have 100,000 miles to change them. I had 51,300 when I pulled mine and changed them out. They were all very brown. The dealer uses Delco Plugs. I bought some E3 plugs that work a lot better and are less expensive than the Delco Plugs.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Newsflash: brown spark plugs (insulator) are indicative of an engine that is running with the correct fuel/air ratio. :)

    What are you basing your statement on that the E3 plugs work a lot better? :confuse:
  • My 4x4 has worked for the most part since I bought it. It was working just lately, and as I drove it, the front axle light in front of the lever flickered and turned off. My lever was still engaged in 4hi. From noticing, my 4wd doesn't work anymore. I can shift it into 4hi or 4low, but my front axle light will not illuminate. Even when I pull forward a little or backward. And I've tried driving around a little and then shifting it in and it still doesn't work. What do I need to replace? (I've already checked the fuse)
  • I tried and can't even get my hand down far enough to reach the area you suggested. Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can find someone who can do it for me.
    Did you ever find out what the problem was with your Tahoe not starting?
  • From articles I've read in Off Road Magazines and other Magazines. In addition from what the informatin say's on the web site's, etc.
    Just today, 01/20/07 while at Kragons I read the Article they have on their New Bosch Platium Plugs that have what appears to be 4 prongs on top. The article states that the Bosch Platium plugs are better than the OM plugs.
    There are a lot of high performance plugs that are better than the OM Plugs. Some might cost you more and some might cost you less. It just depends on what type of plug you want to buy. I hope that this helped.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    I prefer actual test data such a dyno runs. I put a set of Bosch platinums in a Mitsubishi 3.0L V6 and it ran like crap. Put a new set of OEM Champions in and it ran great but that's just anecdotal evidence. Still like real test data by independent source.
  • It might be that you don't see a difference or see worse rather than better performance is do to the size of your vehicle. I mean come on, those rice burners can't weigh more than 1500 pounds if that. If you want to see an improvement in your performance in such a car, you'll probably have to change out the entire engine. But that's just my opinion.
    Also, the Bosch Platium Plugs have a new Platium plug out which is a lot better than their previous Platium Plug and certianly a lot better than the stock OEM plugs of any brand. I'm not knocking champion plugs in the least. I ran them in my 67 Camero. And yes it was a high performance engine, clutch, trans, differential, etc in my Camero. At that time though there wasn't these high performance plugs avaliable to me. And Champion was the only plug that ran hot enough to get the job done. I did try several other brands at that time, none of them compared to Champion.
    But now since we are in the future, 30 years later and these high performance plugs have come out, and yes they have been dyno tested, I will pay a little more for the added technology in these plugs. And some of them such as the E3 plugs aren't but $6.25 per plug.
    Of course my 2004 Tahoe Z71 with all the Off Road Equipment added on makes it quit heavy and I need all the extra power to get better gas mileage, towing power, etc. I hope that this helped. Have a Good Day. :shades:
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    It (the 3.0L) was in a 2 ton Dodge minivan. And something about their ignition system wasn't compatible with the Bosch platinums back then (90s). The platinum tip was actually burned off down to the porcelain insulator after less than 1,000 mi. I'm sure everyone is on the same page now so new ones are probably pretty good. It just seems strange that with the current horsepower wars, the OEMs wouldn't be using these new hipo plugs if it gave them more ponies. Arguing about spark plugs is about as fruitful as talking about which car wax is best. If they work for you, that's great. ;)
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