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Chevy Tahoe



  • Thanks alot for your help. im going to use that method, is there another way to do this with out using compressed air, Just in case i can't get an air compressor.
  • mwillsmwills Posts: 3
    Hi - This sounds a lot like the clicking noise I heard in my '70 Buick LeSabre and '85 Park Avenue. I could hear the clicking whenever I drove close to a wall with my windows down. It turned out to be the center medallion in the wheel cover. They are held in place by a spring clip, and after a little wear sets in, they are not held in place tightly and will fall around as the wheel turns, resulting in a slight clicking sound. A small amount of silicone bathtub caulk should take care of it. Good luck.
  • camydogcamydog Posts: 64
    If you are replacing your fuel pump I assume the pump is no longer working. If the pump were working I would say you could use it to pump the fuel into a container upstream, somewhere connected into the fuel line. The best place I can think of is at the fuel filter. In any case, you will need to get under the truck. A lift is invaluable for this repair.

    I can't remember all the plumbing we were dealing with on the '96 Tahoe. There may be another way but I can't think of it. We made very little mess with the jet pump and were able to lower the tank with only a few quarts left in it. That sure beat 30 gallons!

    Good luck.
  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    I've got a 2000 Yukon with 145K miles that still looks/runs near perfect in every way - except it's got an oil leak that is driving me insane, not to mention bleeding my wallet dry.

    Last fall, I replaced the transmission with a new GM Goodwrench transmission. Before then, it had a small leak from the rear main seal, nothing real bad. After the tranny replacement, it definitely got worse. So the thought was, it definitely was the new rear main seal that we installed, right? Wrong. I just replaced it again, no luck. Still leaking.


    1. Replaced oil pan gasket.
    2. Replaced valve cover gaskets.
    3. Replaced intake manifold gasket.
    4. Reminder - already replaced rear main seal twice.

    The only thing I can think of now is a leaking cam sensor, or leaking oil pressure sensor. They are both at the back of the block. And whatever is leaking is now dripping on the exhaust and creating an oil smell. If it was just the rear main seal, it wouldn't be smelling bad...right?

    Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.
  • I am having the same problem. Did you ever figure out what the solution was?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Try pulling the fuse - see the How to Remove a Stuck CD guide. If you can't find the fuse, removing the negative battery cable for a few minutes may reset it too.
  • DeerSlayer2,
    I have a 96 Suburban and I need to replace the HVAC fan, I read that you had some problems, any advise on how to remove the fan and fan shroud? It seems like its pretty tought to get to the fastner that holds the shroud on? Is there a special tool? Any help is a lot of help.
  • I have a rattle that sounds like it is coming from the front left. I think I can feel a sensation through the sterring wheel. I know it's not this - but, it sounds and feels like the wheel is loose. I have a 2005 Tahoe with approx. 26,000 miles. Is this the steering column problem that has been discussed? Thanks.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    That's what it felt like on my 2005 Yukon XL, and there was also a noticeable knocking sound when turning or on bumpy roads. It was the intermediate steering shaft and a left front suspension cross member, both covered under warranty. Happened right about 30K miles. I was impressed at how much better if felt when fixed - very smooth and quiet. Hopefully you are still covered by warranty.

    From what I gathered from various online sources, for the first couple of years that this problem was known, GM would either simply lube the piece, or replace it with an identical piece that was equally prone to failure at a later date. Then they actually redesigned the part a couple years ago, and that is what I got. Hopefully it will last the life of the vehicle.
  • Thanks for your response. I think this is my problem exactly. I have an appointment with the dealer to get it fixed day after tomorrow. Thanks again.
  • My 04 z71 tahoe has started to "run out of gas" even when it's got plenty in the tank. When I changed the fuel filter underneath on the drivers side, I tried to blow thruogh the old one and couldn't. I figured the new one would solve the problem but 20 miles down the road the engine shut down again. It started back up after a few minutes only to shut down after another 15-20 miles (and so on for the next 80 miles home.
    I need help, advice,or a grenade. Any suggestions on what to check next?
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Check fuel pump pressure. The clogged filter may have taken it out.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 190
    Has anybody figured this out. I do think my hubby tried the battery and fuse options. NO good. It just clicks and clicks and doesn't pop out. Tried taking face plate off, but there is no little hole to stick a pin in to manually eject it.
  • ndmattendmatte Posts: 4
    I have an 07 Tahoe, purchased OCT 06. I had planned to take it to the dealer this past Monday for Oil, tire rotation and check out what I believed was slipping in the transmission on start. Making a long story short, as I was coming home on Sunday night, I accelerated from a stop at a red light. Normal acceleration, nothing hard and at 30-35 mph, bang and thatt was all she wrote. Lost all forward drive. After pulling over, I discovered that I had reverse and could only go forward in first gear. 2,3, and D nothing. I searched tahoe trannys on the web from my phone and found this site. Sorry I am not the only one with this same story. Good news. Roadside assistance is spot on. Within 1 hour, my tahoe had been towed to the nearest dealer.

  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    ndmatte said: I accelerated from a stop at a red light. Normal acceleration, nothing hard and at 30-35 mph, bang and that was all she wrote. Lost all forward drive. After pulling over, I discovered that I had reverse and could only go forward in first gear. 2,3, and D nothing.
    Gee, what a surprise! Another failed transmission on a new GM SUV. As I have said many times on this forum.....they don't build 'em like they used to. Oh sure, they give you DVD, Nav, Bose stereo, fold up power seats, heated mirrors, leather seats, expensive wheels and tires, big buck clear coat paint jobs, etc but somewhere along the line GM forgot that most SUV buyers would like to have a dependable vehicle that starts and stops and can do some work on occaision. And a vehicle where the transmissions and fuel pumps actually perform like they should. Dream on.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Might want to withhold your verdict 'til you know what caused the failure. We don't know how many miles on it, maintenance history, how the truck was used, what broke, etc. Not saying it wasn't a bad tranny, just a premature judgement.
  • ndmattendmatte Posts: 4
    My bad. 19K for milage. The truck isn't driven much anymore. We bought a third, get around car for my wife. To and from work. 30+mpg much more efficient. The Tahoe wasn't driven hard. It was used to transport kids to and from competitions. Most miles where highway. Only use the 4wd twice. Both in snow. I talked to the maint department yesterday. It was on the rack getting a new tranny or so they say. I have yet to go by and see it. Still a firm believer in the make. Here is hoping for the best.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    73 shark said: Not saying it wasn't a bad tranny, just a premature judgement.
    When you see hundreds of posts on many forums on the net talking about premature transmission failures.....I don't think my judgement was premature.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,081
    A reporter hopes to speak with current owners of large SUVs who are trying to sell their vehicle and their experience. If you are a consumer with a large SUV that just sold or looking to sell, please respond to [email protected] with your daytime contact information no later than Monday, March 24, 2008.


    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • 07 tahoe just gave me a message when i turned it on stating "service needed stable link>>>then nothing. as it died. Now the remotes dont work and the car will not turn over.

    I sent it in last week for a recall as the remote battery replacement message was being displayed --- i dont think they fixed it. any suggestions _ cant even make it to the dealership _ should i try and jump it? thanks
  • I have a 96 chevy tahoe, 5.7 liter. There is a high pitch whining noise when driving in warm to hot weather at highway speeds. Anyone have any idea what is causing this and what to do about it? It has 115,000 miles on it now... Thanks..
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    075bronco said: cant even make it to the dealership _ should i try and jump it?
    Your '07 should still be under warranty. Call your dealer and they will come pick up the vehicle and take it to their shop. Let them handle it. I would not try to "jump it". That could cause additional problems.
  • ndmattendmatte Posts: 4
    Little tranny update. Picked up the Tahoe today. It took more than a week to get the warranty to approve a new tranny but they did, when they saw the amount of parts and labor it would take to rebuild. The battery was determined to be ok. Just had to do some sort of software download. So far so good. Of course it took 19K miles to ruin the tranny last time. 18995 mile to go.
  • taxiecabtaxiecab Posts: 1
    My wife has a 2002 Buick La and I have a 2002 tahoe 2 wd 4 dr. when we went to have the brakes replaced after over 50,000 miles she was told they could not turn the rotors and they would all have to be replaced. She did find one brake shop that would turn the rotors and they did and so far the brakes have been ok. On my 2002 Tahoe when I had brakes put on they tried to turn the rotors and they just fell apart and could not be turned. The material was like some kind of pot metal and just crumbled up. I had to spend and additional $400. dollars for all new rotors. Had the same problem on my 1997 Tahoe when I had brakes put on at 30.000 miles and they turned the rotors and the next time I needed brakes at just 55,000 the rotors had to be replaced.
    On my 2002 Tahoe truck I have been having brake problems when at the end of a slow stop the wheel next to the driver would make a noise and make the brake pedal feel like something hit it. some times it would do it and some times not. I took it to my garage and they said the brakes were on recall. When i checked with all the dealers they said it was not for here but for Canada due to the high salt usage on thier roads. The service mgr. of the dealer where i bought it said he would ck into it and see what he could do. He was aware of the problem and said it was due to corosion and they needed to be clean and sensors ckecked.
    The service Mgr.called me today and said they will do it and Gen. Mts. will pay for it. I told him the only problem was that I just had a wreck with it where I rearended the truck in front of me because i could not get it stopped. It was a low speed accident and no air bags were deployed and I know it was do to those damn ABS brakes. The pedal was to the floor and mushy like air in the lines or what ever they did not feel right. Gen. Mts. has had a brake problem for many years now going way back into the early 90's and they just keep dancing around it and won't try to fix it. They love to sell rotors. The NBTS needs to make an accounting of this mes and bring them to task.
    Like when my wife purchased her 2002 Buick she asked if there was an emg trunk release inside of the trunk compart incase some one would lock u in it. They all said yes from the dealer to the manufacture. "They said all 2002 were equiped with them". I said please find hers. There was not one and do you know why? Her car was built in Aug. and they law didn't go inot effect until Sept. 1st so they didn't do it until the law made them. I would have cost maybe $2 bucks so that gives you a good idea of what they think of your safety. No wonder people buy those foreign Japnesse cars so much. They are a lot smarter than I am.
  • piercemanpierceman Posts: 47
    Responding to my own post 2-1/2 years ago.
    Has anyone swapped out 2nd row captains with a split bench?

    Unfortunately the pregnancy I spoke about 2 years ago didn't make it, but thankfully we are expecting again.

    Sorry if I never responded to previous responses
    I have grey leather in an 05 Yukon SLT in great condition

    Let me know if anyone has done the swap and/or if they have a bench to trade


  • dsatwoodsdsatwoods Posts: 7
    I have a 2002 Chevy. Tahoe Z71 that has not had a problem in 70,000 miles. 6 months ago the security light would come on for no apparent reason, every so often it would go into the tamper proof no start mode and let me sit for 10 minutes. I have known the service manager and the service personnel at the dealer since 1988 and found them to be forthright and honest. They checked the codes and said it looked like the Key Housing that was tripping the system. I replaced that at a cost of 278.00. That did not correct the problem. So we talked about what to do next and they said they were not sure and GM was not giving them much to go with as they have the problem with other models and have had poor success with a fix. Hoping someone here can shed some light on this.
  • dsatwoodsdsatwoods Posts: 7
    I have installed many remote starts over the years in Chevys and had no problems. I used a number of systems and settled with Bulldog Security. I normally use their Model RS1200E Starter. I do not bother with all the extras as cars now have remote door locks. They have developed an interface cable that is easy to install and eliminates allot of cutting and splicing. Naturally you will have to drop the bottom pannels of the dash to get to everything but that is pretty easy.
    the interface cable is called a T Harness and it is worth it.
  • bpdcpa1bpdcpa1 Posts: 4

    We had a similar situation due to a new child, although it was with a 2002 Suburban. For that year, the bucket seats have the exact mounting configuration as a 60/40 split bench for any Suburban for years 2000, 2001 & 2002 I believe. Thus, I found a split bench at a junk yard from a 2001 Suburban. This was after about 1 year of searching. I actually previously bought two different seats that I thought would work - one off of Ebay in which the guy only sent 1 part of the 60/40, and another from an out-of-state used parts guy - the seat was from a '99 Suburban. The problem with the wrong year, other than the size is a bit different, is that all of the mounting locations are different. I would have had to drilled new points through the floor board to mount it. When I got the correct year seat, it fit perfectly on the existing mounts.

    Forget trying to buy the bench from the dealer or Chevy - they won't sell it to you. My suggestion would be to find a reputable junk yard/parts dealer and have them find it for you. Since yours is an '05, you may want to check first to see if any of the adjacent years are compatible. Chevy may be able to help you with that.

    Good luck!

  • piercemanpierceman Posts: 47
    Thank Brian, I will keep looking, posting and lurking and hopefully I will find one

    I will be checking junk yards also if things look bleak
  • bpdcpa1bpdcpa1 Posts: 4
    For your reference, I paid $250 for the seat from a junkyard, then $500 to have it reupholstered in matching leather.
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