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Chevy Tahoe



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    for the particular HP units. Another reason that the programmer won't work is if the previous user did not return the programming back to stock on his truck as the unit can be used on only one vehicle at a time.

    Be sure to get a Return Authorization Number from HP before shippin it back. The turn around time is usually about 5 days from the time you send it and the time you get it back.
  • Over the last week (since the temp has dropped), whenever we start our Tahoe the outside temp display in the rear view mirror alternates between "ICE" and the outside temp for about 5 minutes.

    It has displayed this when the temp is as high as 35F - as expected there is NOTHING in the owner's manual about this feature.

    Has anyone else noticed this?
  • jdh8jdh8 Posts: 9
    yes... i've noticed this... it comes on when the outside temp is cold enough that there might be ice on the road.

    apparently gm thought we were too stupid to tell when it is cold enough that the roads could be icy.
  • The display will show ICE when the sensor detects a possible condition for ice to form. It should flash between the temperature and ICE for a short time then return to a steady temperature reading. It's perfectly normal, just a warning to the driver that it's cold enough for ice to form.

    FIGOMAN: I can turn the wheels lock to lock and the steering wheel won't lock into any position...weird.

    ROCKO7: thanks for the info on the CD changer.

  • The Hypertech website says that the Power Programmer III can only be used with the first vehicle it is connected to. It cannot be subsequently used with another vehicle, if I understand what they are saying. If you had three Suburbans I guess you'd need three Hypertech programmers. This might explain the trouble you are having with the unit originally used with the Silverado.
  • Is that with the key removed? If so something is wrong. Mike
  • Peter, you should have kept the wood shipping crate so you could ship it back :c( Mike
  • Yeah....with the key out...can turn the steering wheel and it doesn't lock at any position at all. Not a very secure thing (not that it stops anyone from stealing a car anyway).

  • selmanselman Posts: 17
    You can use the programmer on multiple vehicles, but you can only have one vehicle at a time reprogrammed. You MUST use the Hypertech unit to return the original vechicle back to it's original programming before you can use the unit on another vehicle. No matter what your current programming is, the programmer will save off the current settings prior to reprogramming. I would contact the guy you bought it from. The T-stat is cheap, he may have just made most of his money back and thrown in the T-stat to make it look more legit.
    Hope this isn't the case.
    Good Luck,
  • Mine locks with the key out withing a short distance, just like every other car. Sounds like the lock pin isnt extracting or is broken.
  • What type of truck do you have and what year?

    I've got a 2001 YXL and a friend of mine picked up a 2001 Sierra which also doesn't appear to lock either.


  • 2000 Yukon XL 3/4 ton

    Not apples and apples
  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    Could you check your Service Repair ticket for the part numbers for the good motor assembly. Please post it here so that cwmartin can post on his site. Others would like to present this good number to their service shops to be sure that they are NOT getting another motor assembly of the old type. Just a thought.
  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    The 2001 fuel economy ratings by the U.S. Department of Energy are now available on a dedicated web site at:
    Over 800 SUV`s, minivans, light trucks and automobiles are rated.
    To obtain 64 miles per gallon or 48 mpg you will have to buy a Honda Insight or a Toyota Prius. These are Hybrid gasoline-electric Vehicles.
    SUV`s seemed to average about 18 MPG.
  • Our 2000 Tahoe built in Janesville in May, 2000,
    has a steering wheel that locks in place when the ignition is off. Orville
  • The pin either broke off or its jammed in. Mine locks fine.

    Yes PLEASE post the new part #'s for the window motors, I feel its just a matter of time for me to make that second trip back to the dealer.
  • I asked this question in another forum dedicated to Tahoes. It seems, as with most of you, the rear window stopped working on my truck, big surprise. Ok, after reading all of these posts, I expected it.
    One thing I don't understand, the lights in the truck don't turn on when unlocked via the keyless-remote. I was told about the dome-overide, which was the first thing I checked, that wasn't the cause. Sometimes the lights will turn on, and other times, they won't. No interior lights, work, however all the ext. ones do. After the car is running for a while, the lights turn on...weird.
    Thnx and sorry for the inconvenience
  • ledled Posts: 4
    The window part number is
    -SOP 15757400 Window Regulator-
    SOP stands for Special Order Part.

    Hope this helps.
  • 2000 Yukon 5.3L, 3.42 with 18,900 miles and 459 hours on the engine for avg. of 41.18 miles per hour. The steering wheel locks as soon as the key is turned off and pulled out of the lock.

  • Don,
    Does your access to technical info extend to adjustment of rear view mirrors?
    The rear view mirror on the driver's side of my 2001 Suburban will not angle out far enough to avoid a blind spot on the left side. With the left cheek (facial) just brushing up against the drivers side window, the rear view mirror will not slue out far enough to look straight behind the vehicle - much less look into the adjoining lane.
    Is there a mechanical adjustment that will permit the range of motion of the rear view mirror to be altered?
    Your counsel and advice will be appreciated.
  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    Every now and then I feel I must remind people that I don`t have a 2000 or 2001 vehicle - so some real owners will be the finial reference. I`m just a nut who enjoys learning about general design for my 2002 Tahoe or Yukon.
    Will certainly review my 2000 service manual for remarks concerning mirror adjustment and report back tomorrow.

    My old 1992 electric mirror in my suburban had a small electric motor which turned a threaded rod to move the mirror. If someone walking by my suburban walked into the mirror quite forcefully they would jam the mirror to one extreme end of rotation. Then the normal electrical positioning switch could not move the mirror to where I could observe the rear of my truck and most of the next lane. The view I observed exactly matched what you describe. If I remember correctly I gently placed my palm of my hand to the right and left mirror edges. I then pressed the mirror on the outside left edge until I heard three or four clicks as the gear was reset.
    PLEASE DON`T try this YET. While I read my manual tomorrow morning some of of good buddies can respond. Maybe someone else has had need to reset the mirror adjustment threaded rod. I hope this makes sense to you.
    Don 434
  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    Hope I`m not being a pain in the rear but I think I remember cwmartin advising me that each rear window motor assembly ( regulator ) has a different part number. Could you please recheck your service sheet to be sure if they listed one or two different part numbers. They may be just one digit apart. Please advise.
  • Well, I gave Hypertech a call and they said I had the older "revision" of the 5.3L #30003 model. So, I'm sending it back and they're either going to exchange it or reprogram it. I got my "RGA" number, whatever that stands for...I'm use to RMA. I also got the warranty under my name. The guy I got it from never registered it with Hypertech, and he made sure that it was put back to stock before he sold it. As far as the Hypertech PowerStat 160 goes, they usually cost $49 including the housing, etc. for the new Vortecs. The older model Vortecs without the housing cost around $29 I believe. All around, it was a pretty good deal considering he only had it for a couple months or so and only used it once...everything looked brand new. The only thing missing was one sticker. :) No tax, just shipping at cost. The best price I've seen for the HPPIII is $299, but usually $349 elsewhere it seems. So getting both for $331 wasn't too shabby. If it weren’t for the reserve set by the other bidder, I would have gotten it for less. I just out-bid her by $5 with 15 seconds about adrenaline rushing. :) The seller started at $220 for ended at $325. All around, I'm happy with the purchase as long as this reprogramming works.

    Anybody get the Hypertech PowerStat? How did the installation go if so?
  • True...darn termites...I could have used that crate! :) Don't get me wrong...I love the vehicle! I'm just really "anal" when it comes to the quality...especially for $35K+. It seems they could have done a better job, yet it seems that I would have had even more problems if I got one of those old model Yukons...the new ones are so much better! I'd feel much better if I won that 2001 Denali sweepstakes for sure! :) he he!
  • selmanselman Posts: 17
    Glad the purchase worked out. You have to excuse my skepticism about internet auction purchases. Let us know what kind of mileage/performance improvement you feel once you have it all installed. I would welcome some additional torque between 1500 and 2000 RPM. Maybe I'm just not used to a V8 that makes noticeably more torque and HP up in the RPM's.
    Does the 5.3L use a reverse flow type cooling system?
  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    A gentle hand or talented mechanic is required so as not to break the mirror face, electric motor, push rod, or housing. $$$.
    I reviewed the eleven pages in the service manual- no-where does the manual talk to a misadjusted mirror.In my humble opinion either the factory misadjusted the mirror or someone has struck it hard enough to drive the threaded rod out of it`s normal adjustment range.

    I also checked a copy of the 2001 owners manual for Yukon,Yukon XL. It does not cover your problem.The pictorials relating to mirror replacement in the service manual does NOT show the positioning or motor views.I guess your problem is Not supposed to occur - I guess it`s just you. JUST KIDDING!!

    Back to the little I know - have learned. On page 8-1210 (mirror face replacement) it mentions that the mechanic can gently insert his fingers as far as possible behind the mirror back toward the CENTER of the back.He then can use sufficient force in order to disengage the snap-fits from the adjuster mechanism and pulling the mirror back out of the housing. Heated mirrors will now also require the un-pluging of the two electrical connections from the mirror back. With the mirror out of the way - on my 1992 Suburban - you can now observe the nylon threaded rod with top ball with two rods sticking out of the balls center. This ball snaps into the mirror back upon reassembly on my 1992. I don`t know for sure what your drive mechanism looks like.You may or may not have a pined ball as your connection.

    Again I hate to even present my views of A WAY to cure your problem for fear of damage.
    On my 1992 I now remember that the first mirror adjustment I just pushed firmly on the mirror face half way between center and the left extreme edge. I heard several clicking sounds as the threaded rod was forced back thru the motor mechanism. This is what must happen when someone walks into your mirror - just in the opposite direction.

    If you do remove the mirror face as described on page 8-1210 you can see the threaded adjustment rod and - rather than force it thru the motor drive mechanism - you can screw it inward far enough to allow the mirror to travel further to the left. Maybe about 1/8" may be enough.

    To reassemble the mirror back the mechanic is instructed to:
    Look for damage to any parts.
    Make sure that the mirror back and the glass sub-assembly have all of the snap fit hooks in place.
    For heated mirrors replug the two electrical connectors to the back of the mirror back.
    Line up the mirror back snap-fit hooks with the adjuster mechanism ramps.
    Use the palm of your hand on the center of the mirror glass to GENTLY press the mirror back into the adjuster mechanism. The palm of your hand can be used to rotate the glass until the snap hooks engage.
    Last item is to test for proper mirror retention by placing a large piece of foam on the ground and use your hand to slap the top center of the housing. It should not fall out.
    I wish there was a simpler way to do this but without printed documentation this is all I have to offer.
    Please respond if you are a mechanic who knows more about this adjustment need.
  • I have been driving trucks for 20 years and the 00 Sub driver mirror does not adjust to where you want it to be (which is also where I want it to be). I believe it is a function of 1) the narrow (IMHO) height of the mirror and 2) it does not adjust "out" far enough.

    A convex spot mirror helps alot (I have always used these on both sides of all my trucks anyway, helps you see the motocycles especially). I use a 1 inch on the driver side, stuck on the right side of the lowest point on the mirror (ends up almost in the bottom middle on the Sub).

    Good luck,

  • Well, after owning the 01 tahoe for 12 days, it was in the shop for 6 days. I have one with the new climate control. On manual the heat won't maintain what I set it at. As soon as some warm air comes in, the unit than reverts to cool air. Anyone else had any trouble?

    It was nice of GM to give me a rental, but the rental was something most of us would not want to drive. I think the engine on the rental was from a singer sewing machine. After the 4th try to fix the problem and changing out everything, I called G.M. for a case #. I was lucky to be able to meet with the service Mgr. and the district guru. They both agreed there was a problem. When I started talking about a BUY BACK, you would have thought they were both on the olympic back stroking team.

    Come this Friday they are flying in a super guru tech from Michigan to look at my problem, and if I believe that one I should be looking to buy a bridge somewhere in Az. Will let you all know what happens. Here in Ca. it has already qualified for the buy back lemon law, and I plan on pressing that issue if they can't fix it this next time. Sorry for the long post, but needless to say I am @&;$#@.

  • The wife wants a remote starter installed on the 2000 Yukon for those -20 degree days. I contacted the dealer who,not surprisingly,warned of voiding the warranty. The installer (Add-On Accessories)has installed hundreds of these things and,off the record,the GMC salesman says that many of his customers have had them installed. Have any of you installed remote starters-particularly those made by DesignTech? If so,any problems? Thanks.
  • We have yet to experience any deep snow here in VT since purchasing the Yukon in June. I am looking at these tires and wondering if they'll "cut it"when we have deep snow. Particularly since the wife has to drive 1.5 hours to work and MUST be there. I'm considering purchasing some Nokian Hakkepellitas for the Yukon for winter use. We've had them on previous vehicles and they are a terrific winter tire. Does anybody have any experience yet in deep snow with these Firestone Wilderness tires? Thanks
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