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Chevy Tahoe



  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    My suggestion would be to find a reputable junk yard/parts dealer and have them find it for you.
    Don't forget to check your local area Craig's List....also dealers on Ebay have seats for sale all the time.
  • dsatwoodsdsatwoods Posts: 7
    I have a 2002 Tahoe Z71 with 60/40 split in gray leather and in perfect condition as they are not sat in. if someone needs a swap.
  • asanchez1asanchez1 Posts: 1
    In Feb 2008, I bought a z71 Chevy Tahoe. Within the past two months, I began hearing a horrible rattling sound that comes on about two seconds after I start the vehicle. It is so loud that I am embarassed to start it. It is only happening after the vehicle is started. I took the vehicle in for service. However, nothing was found. It is doing it more often. Has anyone had the same problem? :confuse:
  • piercemanpierceman Posts: 47
    I am very interested
    Please email me at [email protected] I have grey captains chairs in vvery good condition
    My only worry is that the shades of grey may be different. Does anyone know if they significantly changed the greys from 2001 to 2005
    Where are you located? I am in Central NJ just south of NY


  • rmills33rmills33 Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Tahoe Z71 and its my first 4X4. The steering has gotten loose and it pulls to the right. If there is one of those anoying lines in the road where they have patched it my Tahoe trys to follow the line. I have to hold it strait when I hit a bump also. Any Ideas on where to begin with this would be greatly appreciated.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    Can I swap out front row buckets for a split bench?
  • dsatwoodsdsatwoods Posts: 7
  • uofaz71uofaz71 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Z71 Tahoe. On the freeway today the oil pressure was sitting on 80 psi. I got home, turned it off, and checked it 5 minutes later. This time it was past 80, probably 100-110psi. Several hours later it had gone down to 70 psi. I check the amount of oil and it is dead on. I figured the sensor was probably broken, but it’s moving around a lot for that. Use 10W-30 Motor1 full synthetic in AZ summer.

    Any idea on the cause?
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    The Battery is dead on our 2003 Tahoe. Given its 5 years old and hasn't been started in 3 weeks, I'm not too suprised. Any suggestiosn on replacement battery? Is there anything special in the replacement procedure?

    2003 LS with power locks and security system

  • mholtmholt Posts: 1
    Have used the round cell batteries sold at COSTCO. Two cars have them in service four 4 years and one we use in a motor sailer. They are leak proof, costly but of good quality.
    Mike Holt
  • booogbooog Posts: 8
    I'm having this same problem on my 99 Tahoe. Where is the resistor pack? How do I get to it? Actually, I'm not sure where the blower housing is?
  • rtapscottrtapscott Posts: 1
    I'm looking to buy a Tahoe LT3 or Yukon Denali. GM announced its new financing deal this morning and I'm trying to determine how it's impacting the pricing. $7000 owner loyalty rebate or 72 mos. at 0%. Nobody's jumping over themselves on invoice discounts or even selling at invoice. What's the deal with invoice? I thought that invoice pricing was pretty common and that you could even negotiate a discount on invoice.

    The MSRP on the Yukon is $43,100 and I figure an invoice of around $38,790.

    The MSRP on the Denali is $53,170 and I'm told that the invoice is $49,019.

    Shouldn't I be able to get them to finance the invoice amount without cutting into them too deeply? What about discounts in addition to the $7000. Shouldn't they be willing to do inoice minus $7000 minus a little more?

    Any thoughts based on today's news would be appreciated.
  • piercemanpierceman Posts: 47
    I think you will find invoice a lot lower than that. On my 2005 SLT, I believe the difference between MSRP and invoice was close to 10k

    If I could get the invoice and 0% I'd think about moving up to a Hybrid, although I doubt I'll get much on my trade in
  • booogbooog Posts: 8
    I went to Checker to get the resistor pack and manual. When I described the problem to the guy working there, he suggested I first change the fan switch. The $25 part, and a fairly easy change, did the trick.
  • I have an '02 Tahoe w/Z71 which, for lack of a better word, just feels 'goosey' at highway speeds. A new front end within last 9 months& new Goodyear Triple Treads helped some, but the truck still doesn't exactly inspire confidence at 75 mph. Any suggestions that might improve the handling?
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I have a '04 Tahoe, which probably is the same base as '02?

    Anyway, I had a problem with front tire wear at inside edge, i.e. toe was open. When I took it to a shop for alignment it was right in the middle of the tolerance. I asked to close the toe to the minimum limit on the tolerance and this seems to have fixed the issue. I also put on Triple Tread Fortera tires right after alignment job and after 6000+ miles don't see any inside / outside wear on them.

    Handling also is very good.

    I think the toe setting what GM recommends is for mostly slower speeds. When you drive fast highway speed the down force lowers the vehicle. This in turn, believe or not, changes the toe and I think with these trucks the toe opens. For handling with high speed you want to have the toe at zero so closing the toe a little bit might do the trick for you.

    I had the same problem with a Ford Crown Victoria. That car was just awful when I went to pass someone on a 2-lane highway where it often must be done fast. Moving that big car sideways to on-coming traffic lane fast so that the car would lean left caused it to want to go further left as the left front suspension lowered under the leaning. This opened the toe and you really had to put a lot of steering input to keep the car from leaving the road. On that car I had the toe checked and it also was in the tolerance area. We checked the toe by pulling down on front of the car and it clearly made the toe open up quite a lot. I then asked to set the toe to the minimum limit and it was a huge improvement on handling.

    On my Tahoe the handling did not improve that much I guess because it never was as bad as on the Crown Victoria but this is something you might want to try.

    I know front alignment costs $45 or so but I think it is well worth it.

  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    My 2005 Tahoe has a roof rack but didn't come with the cross bars. Could someone point me to some good information on the web about them - I can't seem to find any. I found one site that seems to offer OEM bars for around $100. I've been told that Thule and Yakima have good systems - but you seem to have to buy a whole rack for around $300. Can I get something less expensive? Thanks.
  • Arrie,

    Thanks for the tips. I'll definitely give this a try.

  • No metal clunking noise is coherent. They are avoiding a minor repair and waiting for the major repair and major money to be made from it.
    I had a similar noise, from what you describe, and had work done on my front axle system. The electronic engagement was not fully off or on, and under braking and a little during acceleration, a clunking sound could be heard. I make no guarantees that this is your problem, but it would be worth looking into from the way it sounds.

    As far as tranny problems, I have had nothing but trouble with my 4l60e, since rebuild. I would recommend going with a remanufactured from a company like Jasper, that carries a strong warranty and will cover if any problems. Rebuilds are only as good as the person doing the work. Since you have already rebuilt twice though, I can understand frustration in having to pay more money, but I really think it is the best option and only wish I would have gone that route myself. Hope this helped and good luck.
  • If you have the vortec engine, which you probably do, I can help with your problem. I had a noise like that for a long time. I thought that it was probably drivetrain or something too, turns out it was a leaking intake gasket. The noise was rattling out under truck making it seem like a u joint or something.

    It was actually a cylinder and valve train slapping due to added pressure from water and coolant leaking in. Have you been losing coolant at all. Mine was such a small leak that I really never noticed till the small noise turned vicious. Good luck and hope this helps.
  • Had the same problem in my tahoe. What you are hearing is caused by coolant and water leaking into your cylinder. The rattle can sometimes sound like it is coming from under the truck, but it is under the hood, I can guarantee.

    I had mine in the shop more times than I can count trying to figure it out. It would stop after warming up a bit, but eventually would not stop at all. Only reason I found out was I started to notice a coolant smell coming from exhaust. Pulled off intake and sure enough, bad leak. Once repaired, never had noise and later talked to a mechanic at local garage, one I didn't go to, that said he has had a few come in like that that he repaired and fixed the problem. Good luck and I hope this helped.
  • i just drove my 2001 Suburban for like 15 minutes, and then suddenly the warning light for the brakes came on and stayed on. I didn't feel anything different with the brakes, what does the light mean? My husband is deployed and I don't know what to do. I am not really familiar with this town, so any help is welcome.
    Thank you. :confuse:
  • Brake light could mean a few things. No matter what though, brake problems are never anything to avoid or ignore. Usually, that light means a warning that brake pressure is low and/or brake fluid is low. There are secondary pop fillers under cyclinder cap to take up gap of missing fluid temporarily. This may be why brakes don't feel different, but they soon may fail. There is also the possibility that your parking brake may be activated. If you even lightly press on it, one locking click down will kick on light.

    First thing I would try is to pull the parking brake release lever under dash. On tahoes, it is directly under dash below the turn signal. If that does not work, I would recommend taking it to a brake shop for inspection. Tell them that you are getting quotes to have brakes repaired and that you are not paying anything till you have a few quotes to find the best price. This might help in saving money by shops not just throwing an outrageous price at you, if they think you are getting quotes from other shops. Most of the time, they will look at it for free and hopefully have you on your way.

    I would do something pretty quick though, just in case you have a small leak.
    Hope this helped and good luck.
  • Thank you very much. I made an appointment already to get this checked out! Thanks again for your help!!! :)
  • jbran95jbran95 Posts: 10
    Anyone have an idea if i can replace the factory autoride shocks with aftermarket and not have the message center tell me to check the suspension?
  • I own a 95 Tahoe, 4WD, and lately when I accelerate to get up to speed on the freeway, or am going up a hill, the transmission kicks back and jerks. Sometimes it can work through it, other times it keeps going, and you have to lay off the gas and take it slow. I am hoping that it does not need a new transmission! Does anyone know what may be causing it? Is there a part that i may be able to swap on the trans instead of getting a new one?

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,043
    A reporter is interested in talking with satisfied owners of a 2001-2006 Chevrolet Tahoe who are also parents. If you are interested in commenting on your experience, please reply to [email protected] no later than Friday, November 21, 2008 and include your city and state of residence, the model year of your vehicle and the age of your child/ren.

    Thanks for your consideration,

    Jonathan Wahl
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds Inc.


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  • What if I was so happy with my 2004 that I bought a 2007? Do I still count?

    Grand High Poobah
    The Fraternal Order of Procrastinators
  • I have a 2000 1500 Suburban, 4WD, with P265/70R-16 wheels and tires. The manual says to not use chains because of clearance problems. Has anyone successfully used tire chains on their Suburban with these wheels and tires? The tire chains I have looked at have rubber or cable tighteners that keep the chain tight to the wheel. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Boy, if you are someplace that a suburban with 4WD can't handle.....I wouldn't want to be driving in it!

    So you're planning to do what? Put chains in the rear, and just leave the fronts as is....and then put it into 4WD with this mis-match?

    or... are you planning to put chains on all fours?
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