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Chevy Tahoe



  • I would put chains on all 4 wheels. I drive in Colorado in the mountains in the winter. There are instances when the snow is heavy, and when it becomes packed on the roads, the sun melts it in the daytime and it freezes at night. It can get pretty hairy. I have seen many cars off the side of the road during these conditions. At times, the road is pretty steep. I'm simply trying to add another layer of safety and assurance I can keep going. Thanks.
  • rjt427rjt427 Posts: 26
    I cant get my sensors to reset on my 07 Tahoe, I can get the horn to sound when I first push in the button. but When I let air out of the tire the horn does not sound. Before I take in to the dealer does anyone know what I can do. Thanks
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Are you sure you're letting the air out long enough?

    If you have the rubber valve stem, then you'll probably have to take it to the dealer.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    What button are you talking about?

  • rjt427rjt427 Posts: 26
    Yea the tire was almost flat.....this set of wheels does have the rubber valve stems.
  • rjt427rjt427 Posts: 26
    The button on the dash that says to resst the sensors
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Huh. No such button on my 2005 (Yukon XL). But I reckon the procedure from there is the same, letting air out in order and waiting for the horn honk. You say they're almost flat, was there a low pressure warning light on before you started? Maybe air them all up to about 40 and then try the process again.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    From what I've heard on other forums, the rubber TPMSs are working as well as the metal ones and have to be reset at the dealer. Some tire stores can do it also.
  • Why can't you buy a Tahoe with a diesel option? The Hybrid seems like a great idea but they offer diesel in selected trucks, why not across the board?
  • rjt427rjt427 Posts: 26
    I have tried it 4 times and the will not reset,I guess I will take it back to the dealer
  • I have a 6" lift kit on my 2002 suburban and it had autoride but the rear is disconnected because of the lift kit. I bought it this way. Because of this the amber/yellow light on the dash is on continuously saying "check auto leveling system". Does anyone know of a way to turn the light for this system off so it is not in my face all of the time. I had one person hook up a computer and he said that he could not do it because of the type of code it was? I do now think I can hook the autoride back up because of the lift.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You may want to search and reread these forums. I think I remember some poster a while ago indicating that he put a resistor across the sensing wires for each of the 4 axle to frame sensors. It made the computer think that the vehicle was at the correct height.
  • I have a 2002 Chevy. Tahoe Z71 that has not had a problem in 70,000 miles. 6 months ago the security light would come on for no apparent reason, every so often it would go into the tamper proof no start mode and let me sit for 10 minutes. I have known the service manager and the service personnel at the dealer since 1988 and found them to be forthright and honest. They checked the codes and said it looked like the Key Housing that was tripping the system. I replaced that at a cost of 278.00. That did not correct the problem. So we talked about what to do next and they said they were not sure and GM was not giving them much to go with as they have the problem with other models and have had poor success with a fix. Hoping someone here can shed some light on this.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    If the 2002 uses a rod to connect to the sensor like the NBS, couldn't you use a 6" longer rod?
  • I have a 2006 Tahoe that is about to go out of manufacturers warranty. I have had problems with the rear hatch and rear door locks. The fuse for the rear locks blows under normal vehicle usage. I have had the vehicle in to be checked about 6 times. The dealer did replace the left door lock actuator due to problems they found with it, they also replaced the fuse block due to a bulletin on this vehicle. They say they can not find any other problems beyond what they have already done. I feel when I take the vehicle in the dealer just lets it sit and then calls me that is done after they put a fuse in. I have tried to diagnose this through using different devices and checking the fuses to no avail. I am not sure what to do. I would appreciate any help with this.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Does the fuse blow when you try to lock/unlock the rear doors or rear hatch? Or is it already blown when you go to lock?
  • The accessory fuse(seats, power locks, mirrors) inside is blown. I replaced it once (it's a 12 dollar fuse) and i moved the seat once and it blew again. What could be the problem? It's a 1995 2 dr Tahoe 4wd
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Check the wiring under the seat to make sure something hasn't worn thru the insulation and is shorting out. Other than that it might be a motor that's gone Tango Uniform.
    My 01 Tahoe wont shift from 2wh to 4wh lo or hi, sometimes it goes into auto mode. What is the RPO for the 4x4 mode actuator. Also is hard to install? Is there some link where I can get directions for installing this myself? Thanks...JR :cry:
  • I may be looking to buy a used Chevy Tahoe Z71 or GMC Yukon. It would be my first large SUV. Roughly how much does it cost to fill up one of these babies at the current gas prices ($1.90 - 2.00 per gal)? I'm hearing the MPG averages around 14/18. Anyone getting better results?
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    The NBS GMT900s hold 26 gallons. Last summer I was paying about $100 to fill. :cry:

    I get about 12 in town and 17 on hwy w/ a best of 19 on one tank. :) Was going 55-60 while pulling my jet ski.
  • I'm on my second Tahoe. My current is a 2007, Z71. I typically get 16mpg on mixed driving. I have popped off a couple of 20's when I've been on the interstate going across flat country. I just filled up last night and it cost me a shade under $47. I love my truck and can recommend it if you need one.

    Grand High Poobah
    The Fraternal Order of Procrastinators
  • tsf7tsf7 Posts: 31
    What years are you looking at? For comparison to an older model, my '04 Suburban gets 14/18 pretty frequently, and it has 4:10 gears. I've gotten close to 20 on long state highway drives (55 - 65 mph); I took a fast trip across Nevada a couple weeks ago w/ cruise set on 85 mph, and got about 15 mpg, so it depends how you drive it. With the standard 3.42 gears, I think I'd get 1-2 mpg better on the freeway, since my truck is turning about 2000 rpms at 60 and 2500 rpms at 75 mph due to the lower gears, but I need the lower gears for towing. I know you asked about Tahoes, but I'd expect their performance to be very similar if not identical to a Suburban of the same years and equipment.

    That begs the question, why do you want a Tahoe? For me and my family's "needs" (wants), after moving up to the Sub and getting used to all the space, I wouldn't be happy with a Tahoe (or Sequoia, Armada, standard length Expedition, ect). The Sub is more useful and costs about the same as a Tahoe to drive and buy. For towing, hauling lots of cargo, or using the rear seat, the Sub is hands-down better, due to the longer wheel base and functional rear seat (which is nearly as comfortable as the middle row, unlike the Tahoe, which basically has a seat sitting on a flat floor), and there is almost as much storage room behind the 3rd seat of the Sub as there is beind the second seat of the Tahoe (w/ 3rd seat removed). The lack of a fold-flat rear seat is no issue in the Sub, b/c when you tumble it forward, there is enough room for just about anything -- I've only had to pull the rear seat out once or twice, unlike my brother, who is always installing and removing the rear seat in his Tahoe due to space limitations. We had a Dodge Durango before the Sub (we were actually shopping for Tahoes, and found a great deal on an '04 Durango, and I regretted buying it for the 2 years we had it), which is similar is length to a Tahoe, and have found the Sub to meet our needs far better. Of course, we tow a 28 ft. travel trailer in the summer and we put 6-8 people in the Sub quite frequently, so we use and need the Sub's maximum capabilities. But if you aren't doing these things frequently, and are worried about gas mileage, you probably don't need, and may not be happy with a full-size SUV -- there are cheaper, more efficient vehicles out there, to be sure. Which brings me back to the thought that if you want a Tahoe to actually do full-size SUV things with, the Sub is better at virtually all of them than the Tahoe. The only thing better/more useful would be a diesel Suburban (crossing fingers that GM comes through w/ the baby Duramax!). Not trying to start a flame war or anything -- Just some thoughts based on my experience.

    The Sub has a bigger tank (31 gals), but it costs about $45 to fill up here w/ $1.65 gas (last summer -- $125+ :cry: ), and unless we are taking a trip or something, that lasts us about 3 weeks on average. If you can't already tell, I think they are great trucks!
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Ditto. I have a Yukon XL and can't see the logic in the Yukon/Tahoe for someone who will actually use the third row. A whole lot more utility for very little additional cost.

    That 31 gallon tank has been a real benefit, too. I have 2WD, 3.42 gears, and we get about 15-16 around town, 20 on the highway. Although we had a strong head wind going both directions from Fort Worth to McAllen and back last weekend, and managed about 17, at over 70 mph most of the way. Not bad considering it's rated for 18 highway.

    We've towed an 18' and a 24' travel trailer (rentals). I plan to try a 30' trailer next. It will be well within the 7300# towing capacity, and it comes with a weight distributing hitch as well. It seems that wind resistance, not weight, is the major issue when towing. We love the YXL and have thoroughly enjoyed our times renting those travel trailers. I am very tempted to buy a trailer at some point, in which case I'll probably also try and upgrade to a 2500 Suburban/YXL. A cousin has one with the 8.1 and says while he barely gets 12 mpg downhill, he can't even feel his 25'-ish travel trailer back there.
  • tsf7tsf7 Posts: 31
    Yeah, the wind resistance is pretty noticable when towing a travel trailer (I recently towed a mid-size SUV on a flat bed with the Sub -- probably a 5500 lb. load, and it towed much easier than the travel trailer, to be sure), but you can get the trailer weight up pretty easily as well. You'll definitely need a weight-distributing hitch and a trailer brake controller on a trailer that large. On our 28 ft. bunkhouse, the mfr. weight is 5100; it weighs 5300 - 5600 on the wheels loaded to camp, and we usually have 6800-7000 lbs on the truck axles (with us, gear, bikes on top, and a full tank of gas). Our heaviest load so far was a 10 day trip w/ 4 adults, 2 kids, and transporting some extra household equipment/furniture in the trailer for a relative. We had 7900 on the truck axles and a gcvr of 14500 according to the scale, putting us just 500 under the 14000 lb max. gcvr for our Suburban w/ 4.10 gears (the gcvr for a 3.42 geared truck is 13000 lbs, at least for an '04). So we were pretty heavy.

    The good news is the Sub handles the weight pretty well as far as the chassis goes -- it never feels overmatched, pushed around, ect, even when loaded at or above its listed capacities, and that includes going from Utah to Oregon, to Colorado, and to Montana so far, over some pretty steep, long mountain grades. Living in Utah, we have to climb hills every way we go, usually combined with wind, so we tow in pretty challenging terrain on virtually every trip. Combining the weight with the wind resistance, the Sub is adequate, but could certainly use more towing power imo -- 4th gear is pretty much useless unless on flat ground w/ little or no headwind (which we rarely have), and we spend lots of time in 2nd gear @ 4000 rpms going up hills. And get 8-10 mpg as a result. With 3.42 gears, I'd imagine you'd probably just have to drive it in third gear to save your tranny, although the tow-haul mode does a pretty good job of limiting excessive gear hunting under most circumstances.

    I shopped 3/4 tons a little, but decided that the estimated 5-6 trips with the trailer weren't worth the extra sticker cost (2500s are harder to come by) and wouldn't be worth the extra gas bill each month, as we use the Sub for a daily driver as well as a vacation-mobile. And I don't think the extra 30 ft.lbs of torque from the 6.0L (360 ft/lbs in the 6.0L vs. 330 in the 5.3L) would make much of a difference at all. Although the 8.1 L puts out 447 ft/lbs, which would probably make some difference, those numbers aren't anywhere close to what a diesel will do, and gas mileage is dismal at best. Anyway, after several months of shopping, I never came across a used 8.1L in my price range, so I never got a chance to test one out, but I don't think I would have bought one had I found one. We also shopped diesel Excursions, but decided that the substantially higher cost (they jumped in price quite a bit after Ford quit making them), the more unwieldy vehicle for daily use -- we test drove a few, and my wife, who was going to be the daily driver, didn't like them at all -- and the questionable reliability history of the 6.0L diesel engine made the 1500 Sub w/ 4.10 gears our vehicle of choice for now. But in light of the fact that we use the trailer a lot more that I thought, and I underestimated how taxing it would be to pull it in our hills and wind, I'm definitely coveting a Duramax Crew-cab or Dodge Cummins Mega-cab when I'm pulling the trailer (we only have 2 kids, so if we make the extra relatives drive their own cars, we'll have plenty of space). I towed the travel trailer with my bro-in-law's '06 2500 Duramax once to try it out, and with twice the torque of my Sub (660 ft/lbs!), the difference was incredible. As a result, unless GM does come out with the 4.5L Duramax Suburban soon and it is up to the task as far as towing goes, there is definitely a 3/4 ton diesel pickup in my near future, as much as I love the Suburban for everything else. Sorry to turn this into a Suburban travel-trailer towing essay. Happy to answer any other questions about my experiences, though.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I suppose a crew cab pickup with a camper cover over the bed would be a good option for a family of four. Or even five, our three kids are small enough to share a bench. But the three row SUV is just far more useful and comfortable as our daily family car. I don't see my wife ever driving anything else.

    Yes, tow/haul mode does alright. I just don't get in a hurry and stay at or below 65 mph. Like you said, a few tows a year would make poor mpg from the 8.1 the rest of the time difficult to swallow. But if I owned a tailer, I'd like to think we'd use it at least once a month (I'm sure every new RV owner justifies the purchase that way!). Maybe the new six-speed automatic makes the 1500 better. You get the tall final drive for unloaded fuel economy, and still have plenty of flexibility with gears 3-5 for keeping it in the relatively narrow power band when towing. Anyway, I agree a diesel would be nice. Wasn't Ford supposed to be putting a small diesel in their F150? Maybe they'd also put it in the Expedition EL, and that would prod GM to get one in the 1500 pickups and Suburbans. We can only hope.
  • Thank you. I pulled the seats out not too long ago to steam clean the carpet, but didn't check the wiring. I've been lookin for new front seats since mine rock, but I am tired of my door locks not working so I'll give it a look. Thanks Again!
  • tsf7tsf7 Posts: 31
    Agreed that the Sub is just a more useful vehicle than a crew cab pickup for our needs. We use the rear seats on a weekly basis -- hauling around the church youth group, my wife and her friends and kids going places, or just going to Costco with the four of us and the in-laws on Saturday morning. I have a 10 ft utility trailer for anything too big or dirty to put inside, so I have little use for a pickup bed. My wife would not drive a 3/4 ton pickup. She would drive an Acura MDX, Acadia, ect, but I'm leery that those won't get much better mpgs than the Sub, and aren't quite as versatile. But if GM doesn't come through with the diesel, we'll probably end up with a CUV and 3/4 ton truck combo, as opposed to the Sub/sedan combo we have now.

    As far as the travel trailer goes, I know a bunch of people who never use theirs, so we aimed conservatively and bought a cheaper trailer that we could tow with the Sub to see how much use we'd get out of it. We actually use ours about twice as much as I estimated -- 2-3 times a month in the summer, plus a few early and late season trips that we could not or would not take in a tent -- too cold! It has been a great investment for our family. It is nice to get the kids away from tv, video games, ect on a regular basis (we specifically did not opt for the tv in our trailer!)

    I do think the new 6-spd auto would help the 5.3 tow better. There is a big gap between gears in the 4-spd -- often it will be at high rpms in 2nd or 3rd not working too hard, but when it upshifts, there isn't enough power to pull the higher gear, so it has to shift back down. I don't know whether the 6 spd has a much higher final drive than the 4 spd, but filling in those gaps would certainly be nice, and would help out a bit with the performance, I would think. As far as diesels go, Ford and GM announced smaller diesels for 1/2 tons in early '08, to start production for the 2010 model year. I haven't been able to find out whether GM actually plans to follow through, but I suspect they are not on track to do so now that they've had all this financial trouble. Oh well. There is always that company in Colorado that will swap in a new 6.6 L Duramax/Allison combo into a 2500 Sub for $15k or something like that! Happy motoring ...
  • I have a 03 Tahoe with 5.3 L. I get around 18 mpg hwy. I bought it used with 86,000 miles. Warranty claims were instrument cluster replace, fuel tank fuel module replace,intermediate steering shaft replace, right front diff shaft seal replaced,pressure cycling switch replace, transmitter of rear door compartment lock replace.
    I like the power and the ride, and ease of parallel parking, though there are different suspensions available, I tried some pretty rough riding Tahoes before I bought this one. It does have some play in the steering while turning corners around the block but not while driving on the highway. This may be the way the steering box is set up, but is not a major issue. I am concerned about the reliability of the electronic modules and dash cluster though.
    I also have a 03 Silverado short box with the 8.1 L and it gets the same mileage. The last I checked was 33.5 liters for 150 miles. 1 liter is about the same volume as 1 US quart. Both have 3.73 gears
  • mmercurimmercuri Posts: 2
    I realize your original message was posted a long time ago, but I want to know if you ever had any resolution to the front end shaking? I have a 2000 Tahoe LT 4WD and we have experienced a tremendous front end shaking at highway speed, just as you described, but the strange thing is that it has only happened 4 or 5 times in the last 12-18 months. Chevy can't find a problem, so we took it to an independent mechanic, and they can't find the problem either. Of course, it never happens when they take it for a drive. Please let me know, I get a little nervous driving the car on the highway because of this.
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