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Chevy Tahoe



  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Is your problem like regina1 explain, i.e. it shakes after you hit a bump?

    If it is the next question is, what mileage do you have and have you ever changed the front shock absorbers?

    Also, do you have oversize wheels on your truck?

    Does it feel like you cannot stop the truck if you hit brakes right before or after a bump on road?

    All of the above points to direction of inadequately working shock absorbers.

  • mmercurimmercuri Posts: 2
    Hi Arrie, thanks for the response.
    Yes, it happens after we hit a bump. I have just under 65K Miles (not bad for 9 years old), we have Kelly Safari Tires P245/75R16, and we have NOT changed the shock absorbers.
    I haven't really thought about the stopping that you mention before/after hitting bumps, so I would have to say I don't recall a problem stopping.
    -One thing to note that might be helpful to you... once when this happened, 2 men driving almost next to us had us pull over because they saw the severe shaking and wanted to look under the truck to make sure the front wheels weren't going to come off! They did a quick 'by the side of the road' check, and didn't see anything unusual. This particular time we had just gone over some bumps, and we were in a slight turn to the right. Although this has also happened when we are going straight.
    Although this has only happened a few times, I have this fear that the wheels are going to come off when I'm on the highway! Is that even possible?
    Any thoughts? Thanks again! :)
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    It really sounds weird if shaking is so bad that people in the car next to you can see it so severe they want to stop you for inspection...

    Again, it sounds like your shock absorbers are all gone. For a 9 year old truck you should change them anyway. And they are not really that expensive.

    Do you think your tires are in a good balance, i.e. do you feel any kind of vibration in the steering wheel other than when shaking goes very bad?

    It could be that when you hit a bump it gives the suspension spring system an impulse that is then kept vibrating by off balance tires.

    How about tire wear? Do they wear evenly. i.e. no outside or inside edge wear?

    The big shaking should be taken care of with new set of shocks and tires should be in such balance that you feel absolutely no vibration when you drive.

    You can test shocks by applying weight on front bumper (same for rear). When you remove the weight the truck should raise up and then slightly down and stop at its normal resting position. If you see any movement up again your shocks are to be replaced. i.e. shock absorbers should stop the up-and-down movement at 3/4 point of the vibration cycle and not start up again.

  • Just had to replace my drivers' side front window this last weekend. Purchased the motor on-line. Same motor will work for the front or rear window on same side. It only cost me $47.99 out the door, and my neighbor installed it for me. It took him a few hours but it works as good as new. It is slightly louder than the other motors, but nothing to complain about.

    Hope this helps!

  • I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe :sick: with 81000 miles on it. The heater and a/c fan only works on the highest speed #5. How do you repair this problem?
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Not sure if they still use the resistor network for speed control on all but the highest or not but if they do, it sounds like there is a open circuit in the common line to the resistor network.
  • kmitchell3kmitchell3 Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Chevy Tahoe Z71 -- the ac seems to work but the fan doesn't blow at ll unless you are going down the road pretty fast it will blow out some. I checked the BLOWER fuse and it was fine. It seems to me that this might be a wiring issue. Does anyone know where the ac fan is located in the engine so I can check the wire going to it? Also, what other things can I check myself before having to have it looked at by a professional. Thanks
  • gabecmodelgabecmodel Posts: 2
    ive replaced the altnator, spark plugs, fuel filter, battery, fuel pump sensor, starter sensor, and it still wont turn over. it cranks and starts for a second then cuts out. ive checked all the grounds and i have no idea PLEASE HELP
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    how much fuel pump pressure do you have?
  • gabecmodelgabecmodel Posts: 2
    i dont know how do i check for that im not a mechanic
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You need fuel, compression, and spark to run (all done at the correct time of course). If your vehicle cranks, starts, and runs for a period before stalling out, then your compression is 'probably' okay, and your electrical is 'probably' okay. I'd be focused on verifying good fuel supply.

    For instance, if you had a bad fuel pump or some obstruction in the fuel delivery, you might have enough fuel to start after the engine was rested, but not enough to keep it running.

    Who has determined that all of those parts had to be replaced? Seems you could have had a mechanic spend an hour of time diagnosing this problem, before throwing all kinds of expensive parts at it. If you're not a mechanic and don't have any diagnostic tools, then I'd suggest getting it towed to a competent/reliable mechanic, and have him diagnose the problem and fix it for you. He can do compression tests on the cylinders to know that the internals of the engine are okay. He can check the fuel pressure to validate fuel delivery. He can check the engine computer, to see what error codes might have been recorded, etc. You could randomly throw 20 more parts at this and still not find the problem.
  • bmgt18bmgt18 Posts: 1
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Have they checked the "intermediate shaft coupling"?
  • ashlynashlyn Posts: 2
    Hi! I am trying to purchase a 2005 or 2006 Black Tahoe Z71. I am pretty picky and so my choices are limited. It seems that the Z71 comes with sunroof, DVD player and leather interior from what I've seen. I have been told not to buy from the north (due to snow salt and rust), but it seems most of them come from up there. I did find one somewhere else but it's a 2005 with 93K miles. Is that bad? The others had 65K miles or so. I work very close to home so I won't be driving long distances everyday, but just don't want to buy a car that has too many miles to start. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks!
  • ashlynashlyn Posts: 2
    I really have no idea what that means. It's from a dealer, is this soemthing I should ask them? If so, what do I need to look out for?
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    Can anyone point me to information on converting a Tahoe to run on natural gas? Thanks.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Try the Natural Gas fueled vehicles discussion for links.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Yes, you should ask the dealer as it is a well documented problem. They replaced my wife's on her 2004 w/ a new design for free under a customer appreciation program. They used to just relube them.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    I did find one somewhere else but it's a 2005 with 93K miles. Is that bad?
    Not bad...but that is a lot of miles for an '05....23K+ per year. If you look around you can probably find one with under 50K miles...that would be my choice.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    This is the best site I found - about a family that converted their jeep to cng. mid=100
  • I am having the exact problem. my is a 2004 tahoe. the 20 amp fuse keeps blowing for some reason. did you ever had the problem resolved?
  • Which 20 amp fuse is the problem? I have been through both fuse boxes and can't find any blown fuses.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    I thank You Everyone participating in Chevrolet Tahoe and Suburban forums. There is a lot of information that has been useful for me and hopefully I have been able to help some of the readers with my postings.

    However, I have "moved on" with my vehicle selection and do not own the '04 Tahoe LT that I had any more. Instead I drive an '09 Audi Q7 now.

    I do not want to go to politics with this but in general I don't like a company who files chapter 11 for just a couple of months to clean itself of all the bills to pay and then says we are a new company... Cheating other companies (suppliers) of their money does not mean GM suddenly became a better company to deal with. Their product quality was very bad before the chapter 11 and is as bad after it. No magic happened between before and after chapter 11...

    I have tried to help you all with my postings but now I see no interest of doing it any more on Chevy Tahoe or Suburban forums. Instead you will find me at the Audi Q7.

    Especially I would want to thank kiawah who seems to have very good knowledge about Chevy trucks! Keep on the good work man!

    Thanks to all of you!

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059

    Thanks for all the help, guidance and insight you have provided to our members in these Forums over the years. We're looking forward to seeing you over in the Q7 Forums.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Good luck with your new Audi, that will be a fun change for you, and totally different driving experience.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Thanks kiawah.

    Driving experience indeed is very different in a positive way. This vehicle is "glued" on the road.

    The other really nice thing is that it really and truly gives 20 mpg on highway as is advertised. Tahoe also is advertised for 20 mpg on highway but I only got 17 - 18 mpg at speed I drive.

  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    I just wished we had let GM file a true Chapter 11 and not the induced one that we had to fund. :(
  • harvmharvm Posts: 3
    My 2001 Tahoe LE speakers will not work. All indications are the radio is functioning just fine - just no sound. Since there appears no way to pull/test front speakers, I would like to pull rear speakers and ck ground, ets (?), but can't see how to pull them?!!

  • mozismozis Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 tahoe and both fog light lenses have fallen out,and just looking at other GM vehicles with the same type of fog lights,i've noticed a lot of them also missing lenses.has anyone elce have this problem?. Is there a solution.
  • The radio stays on when the ignition is off. I have to manually turn it off and then the clock stays on. What is causing this? This is the factory orginal radio and just started happening a few days ago.
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