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Chevy Tahoe



  • If left idle for a week my tahoe battery would go dead.I found a 150ma drain until i removed the 15A info fuse under the hood.I haven't noticed any loss of any equiptment. What does that fuse energize?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    What year vehicle are you talking about?
  • sorry, its a 2006
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    My 2007 manuals indicate that the Info fuse is for the Telltale assembly, right rear corner of passenger compartment in the waayyy back d-pillar.

    Do you have reverse sensor indicators on your vehicle, that warn you when you are backing into something...object detection?
  • Thanks very much.I didn't realize my owners manual had that information.My info fuse is for on star /rear seat entertainment. I have neither now, so the fuse will stay out.
    Thanks again
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You may have confirmed something though. There have been a number of folks who mysteriously and periodically have a drained battery. I queried the last guy, and asked him to track when it happens to see if it by some chance was caused by a problem with the on-star call home every month. He never got back to indicate what he found.

    You actually traced the leak back to the onstar circuit, so that is the most damming evidence I've seen up to this point as to the potential cause of others problems.

    Will give them something to investigate....thanks for getting back.
  • Hey Dan!

    I am just curious if you ever got the Front Differential situation resolved and how. FYI, I feel your pain. I have an 2003 Suburban that I have "loved" since new with all of the factory maintenance per the schedule and just learned at 95k miles that the front diff is toast - same situation as you, dealership showed me a styrofoam cup of my front dif gear old - black goo full of metal shavings. Wants $2200 to change it out, but says I can drive it until next winter - probably - if I don't use the 4wd much. In our case, we'd towed a bit too (21 foot boat), but basically never in 4 wheel. Mosgt of the miles have been up and down the interstate (example: still running the original brake pads and they have 40% pad remaining).

    What did you do about your differential?

  • tsmith2233tsmith2233 Posts: 18
    This is a late reply, but I ended up taking it to the service shop that replaced the intake manifold and the guy checked the tranny fluid level and noticed it was about 1.5 quarts low! Yeah, I'm stupid for not checking it, but I haven't had any leaks, so it didn't cross my mind. Then, I remembered it was probably low from when a sh*tty service shop replaced the radiator and didn't top off all the fluids (that was about a year before, but figured that had to be it). Anyway, he topped off the tranny fluid and it has shifted flawlessly ever since! Thank you JESUS i did not toast it! I never get this lucky...I made sure to make note of it ha ha.
  • jlstutzjlstutz Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 Tahoe... replaced the door Jam switch replaced the alternator.. and a new battery but the dome light stays on after the key is pulled.. only goes off if I press the dome override switch ???? what's the problem... I heard something about a body control module..???? any help with this issue would be helpful

    [email protected]
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Did the lite stay on before you replaced the door switch? Could be a bad switch if it did.

    Key has nothing to do w/ the interior lites.
  • jlstutzjlstutz Posts: 3
    The light stayed on before I replaced the switch......
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Why was the switch replaced?

    Does the lite stay on if you disconnected the switch?
  • Have a '02 Tahoe LT with 91K + miles on it. A little more than a year ago, noticed a clanking noise when steering to the right, usually on interstate ramps or gradual right hand curves, but never when steering to the left. Sounds just like when a rock used to get into a hub cap in older cars. Took to a GM dealer in June '09 and during test drive, service manager seemed to think it was a plate located behind the left rear wheel. Said they rust over time and not really much can be done about the noise. To check it out, they would probably have to pull rear axle, etc. Assured me it was not a safety issue. Lately, this clanking has gotten a lot worse and now I hear it all the time, not just when steering to the right. Has anyone else had this problem?? Sounds like the entire wheel is ready to come off. The noise is driving me nuts. Any suggestions??
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Another possibility is wheel bearing.
  • ha33ha33 Posts: 3
    Hi, does anyone have lease options on a new Tahoe?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    Hello Ha33,
    If you can provide me your zip code I can look up what leases are available. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Check the Chevrolet Tahoe Lease Questions discussion for any recent deals.
  • clint02clint02 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 tahoe. When I am driving it shutters when it shifts into 2nd gear from 1st. Also when I am pulling a load up hill on the highway it slips while in 2nd gear. However, it only slips while the transmission is in 2nd gear but the shifter is in third. When I manual shift it into 2nd it does not slip pulling a load up hill. Should I be saving up for a new transmission, or could there be some kind of sensor or computer problem?
  • tjkansastjkansas Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe Z71, it bogs down when I accelerate to get on the highway or similar situations when I have to give it more gas than when I take off from a stop sign or stop light etc. It won't go more than 30 to 40 mph regardless how much you push on the gas and shows an indicator light that says reduced engine power. After pulling over and shutting it down and restarting it will continue like normal with a engine light illuminated for a good portion of the day but will eventually go out. My service 4-wheel light stays on as well. Is this a problem anyone has or does have? I can't get it to go into 4-wheel drive either....indicator light shows service 4-wheel drive. Going to take it in but thought I would see if anyone has any experience here on what it might be! I'm afraid of the CO$T involved!!
  • Does anyone know why two cracks in my dashboard wouldn't be covered under warranty? One of them is right by my airbag, I don't think this is safe.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    Hello Bumble1030,
    Can you please email me your VIN, contact info, current mileage, and dealership so I can look into this further for you? You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • I just emailed it to you from my personal email.

    Thank you
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    Hello Bumble,
    I just sent an email out it may have been for you, it didn't have a screen name on it so I wasn't sure whose it was. Please let me know if you don't receive an email. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • dantheman3dantheman3 Posts: 14
    Hi Brad,

    Sorry I haven't look at this thread in a while. I have signed up for the email responses so if i post something and can keep up with it. I had the front differential rebuilt ($1150) I wouldn't have done it but we do tow for the majority of the summer. I just replaced my front brake pads (turned the rotors) @ 68k, rears are fine. Just comes from the towing. Now the compressor went bad (bearings). Got a new one ($700). The known problem with the speedometer/tach display was replaced under warranty. Other than that rig is rolling along. Put some very cool LED taillights on. I will have to post a picture. Gift from my son.
  • Hey Dan!

    Thanks. No worries about the reply timing. I haven't replaced my front diff yet, but looks like I will in the fall sometime. The Suburban is othewise rolling along OK at 102k. Honestly, I really cannot tell that I have a problem with the front differential other than the dealership is telling me I do. The 4x4 system still works fine all other signs are normal (example fuel consumption doesn't indicate any extra drag caused by a drivetrain component that doesn't want to turn easily, etc.)

    LED tail lights sound interesting. Please do post a picture.

  • Sorry took so long to update this post. Took our Tahoe to a local mechanic here who has a pretty good reputation. He found that both back rotors were severely rusted (stated Chevys and Fords were bad about this). He replaced both along with back brake pads, performed tune up, new plug wires, oil and filter change, new fuel filter, rotated tires and balanced to the tune of just $586. Not bad at all! He also recommended the backing plates be changed sometime in foreseeable future as they are deteriorating. And thankfully so far, that annoying clanking noise is gone.
    So, if anyone has similar problems like we did, get your mechanic to check the rear may be the problem.
  • I have a 96 Tahoe that runs great 85% of the time, the other 15% it runs rough like there is a miss in the engine.

    Hard to explain but i will try, We took a trip to Chicago from Kentucky and all went great on our trip back to Kentucky i noticed the engine shaking very little thought it was bad gas and used heat to disperse any foreign matter or water and did help for a while.

    the problem got worse when i passed an 18 wheeler before we got to a 2 way road and as soon as the transmission went back into over drive it caused the shuttering and shaking of the motor.

    It only acts up after returning to drive or over drive from passing gear.

    shimmy shivers shaking out right just runs rough.

    turn off the Tahoe and start back up and drive normal it will not do anything but normal driving.

    any assistance greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • I have a 2000 Suburban with the 5.3 engine and had a miss. I tried everything including replacing the intake manifold gaskets. It was the ignition wires. When I replaced them, it has run well since.
  • I have a 2000 suburban w/ 4WD. My rear rotors deteriorated on the inside only at around 40,000 miles. I replaced the rotors and pads and the same thing happened at around 100,000. The front rotors and pads lasted past 130,000 miles with the same wear pattern- deterioration of the inside only of each rotor. A Chevy mechanic at the dealer says he sees this a lot.
  • Thank you i will do that over the weekend im sure the wires haven't been changed in a long while.

    Had my mechanic change the plugs, cap, rotor and fuel filter today but the local parts places didn't have the wires and had them ordered to be in tomorrow.

    She runs better but still misses after coming out of passing gear.
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