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Chevy Tahoe



  • clifmvclifmv Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Z-z1 Tahoe and the 4x4 system was working great until yesterday. I have 124,000 miles on the truck. Several months ago the smell from the front diff. was smelling....just awful. I have the FD oil changed and thought all was good until yesterday. I put the truck into auto 4 and heard a hum that I never heard before. Mechanic showed me while the truck was up on the rack how the front diff. was moving slightly on driver's side. Also that in 4 HIGH the noise was evident on the rack while the car was engaged. Cost $2300.00 for a complete rebuild of front diff. and install. Is that considered normal cost. In Arizona
  • I heard a few years back they recalled the steering wheels on 1995-1997? tahoes/suburbans/etc. due to squeaking when u would turn the wheel. Mine has that issue, and didn't know if since it was never fixed, if it would be covered by a recall from several years ago? I have no knowledge of recall rules, etc. so that's why I'm asking.

    1995 2 dr.tahoe 4x4 205k
  • Did you ever get a response on this? We are having the same problem! :confuse:
  • We just bought a used 1999 Sub. We can find the child safety locks on the rear doors. Does this truck not come with this feature? I would think that a 99 would have these locks!
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Did you mean to say "We can't find the . . ."
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did you check the owners manual?

    I'm trying to remember whether my '97 had them. I thought they did, but we didn't really ever use that setting in any of our vehicles, so don't know for sure.
  • I have found that many late 90's - 2000 Tahoes and Suburbans have this same problem. Anyone hear of any inexpensive repair for it? The problem, apparently, is that the motor inside, hits the side of the case, causing a small hole. I was at the transmission shop today, and the tech. had a stack of them he showed me, all with the same hole in the same spot.
  • I have owned since new a 1996 Tahoe 2dr. w/6.5 turbo diesel. The only option I didn't get was the push button 4 wheel drive. Does anyone know how many of these were built? Mine has 130,000 miles and is a great vehicle. Mileage on the road is 17 -18 MPG. I call it a stump puller because of the power. It has taken the back seat to my Silverdo 6.6 Dura-Max but people still look in awh when they see it is diesel.
  • Hey man, I've been having the same problem. I'd really like to get this fixed because, while it apparently doesn't pose a serious mechanical threat(since mine's been doing this for nearly 5,000 miles), it is extremely annoying and embarrassing. I'm changing out my u-joints soon and will let you know if that's the problem.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The post you replied to, was 4 1/2 years ago. Good chance he doesn't even have the vehicle anymore!
  • fixitrodfixitrod Posts: 67
    edited March 2011
    This is usually the case in the longer trucks that unlike most vehicles which wear the front brakes out (as you break weight goes forward...more stress on front system) but in the XL/Suburban they get the back more often especially if you have ride leveling. I am on 3:1 ratio.
    Now the shorter Tahoes/Yukons unless you have ride leveling should act like most vehicles. Hope this gives you some piece of mind
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I keep seeing internet ads for Chevy that indicate you can get 9-passenger seating in LTZ trim. Yet can only spec out the LS model with the front bench seat on their website. Anybody know what the deal is? I'd love to have a Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, YXL with leather and gadgets along with the front bench seat. Misprinted ad, perhaps?
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    AFAIK you can't get a bench seat in front on a LTZ.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252

    73shark is correct; the front bench seat is not available on the 2011 Tahoe with the LTZ trim level. This bench seat is only available on the LS trim level of this vehicle.

    Michelle P., GM Customer Service (assisting Christina)
  • mls1185mls1185 Posts: 4 has modules to disable the theft-lock systems.
  • ngail66ngail66 Posts: 1
    I was once a proud owner of my 2003 Chevy Tahoe, but I started having problems with my gauges on my dash not working properly. I never know what speed I am actual traveling, if my oil gauge is correct, etc. I called my dealer to check on a recall and of course they told me that they did not know of any, so my husband bought our truck to Chevyland dealership here in Shreveport, LA and he was told that it would cost $600 dollars to fix the problem and of course I think that GM ought to pay for the cost of the repair but they won't because my truck as over 200,000 miles on it. Then my A/C and door locks started acting up on my lately, due to the answer I got from the dealer and GM I am not even going to bother taking it to them, but I was going to purchase a 2011 suburban in September of this year and now you can bet your bottom dollar that I will not. I have decided to buy a toyota instead. You would think that after we the tax payers help bail out GM that they would show more appreciation towards their loyal customers, but I guess it's all about making the mighty dollar at that moment and not about keeping a lifetime customer, especially when I have five children and we bought them all brand new Chevrolet from the cobalt to the malibu and now my husband and I have decided to allow each of our children to trade their cars in for toyota and honda' s. Our younger son has all ready gotten a 2011 honda civic, our baby daughter has gone with a toyota corolla S and so has my mother who was a proud owner of a chevy van. So GM what do you think about losing thousands of dollars from our family (8 family members have all ready switched). I think we as consumers need to take a stand and tell GM to stand behind their products or else pay the piper. Let's see what help they will get when they go under again.
  • jdhchijdhchi Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my dashboard on my 205,000 mile 2003 Suburban. I was able to get my local Dealer to take care of it for $100 plus the part which I think was $350. Bottom line yes they have a business to run too. Its not only about making money its about customer satisfaction can't have one without the other especially today. I was not happy about it either BUT I was happy with the break in costs, the results and the guarantee I paid for. Im curious how you would have thought GM should cover the hard dollar expenses associated with a 8-year old vehicle? AND if this is the only major expenses (defined as above $500) you have had with the vehicle you're way ahead of the game! You need to look at it this way…regardless of the car you own its always good policy from day one to think "I need to put aside $20 per month for future repairs" in 3-yrs thats $720 in 5-yrs thats $1200 in 7-yrs thats $1680 because inevitably you will have repairs that cost you money. Its call pride of ownership. Yes, no one wants to believe after paying $40K+ for these depreciating assets (daily drivers are not 401K's) that you will have to continue to spend money on it but you will. At the end of the day IF you have $55K into the vehicle after all expenses, ie interest on the money (yep borrowed money is not free), cost of the vehicle, repairs along the way, etc thats still only $0.275 cents per mile! On average it cost $0.58 cents a mile to drive a new car today! You're better off then most people who flip cars every three-to-five years thinking its a wise financial move…thanks to those that do because thats when I buy them! I'm done buying new vehicles…I have learned my lesson that after spending $500K (Remember thats POST TAX dollars) on cars over the last 20-years (yes, I was one of those that bought higher end vehicles and flipped them every three years-smart me) I'm driving the last new purchase, my 2003 Suburban, until it just stops. Its been a great vehicle, gas mileage aside, yes there have been repairs matter-of-fact just yesterday I had the alternator (original equipment) go out which cost me $175 and two hours total time including trip to Autozone and back and its back on the road! Unless you're on the "List" that list of people with 1-3 year buying cycles (yes there is a list) you're not considered a "platinum" customer (with any car dealership) and nor should you be. After all you stopped paying their light bill after your last new car purchase! Btw, that whopping $500-$1500 they made on your purchase only goes so far and what do you think it cost to keep the lights on at a 200,000sf store/facility? Try $50K-$100K+ per month! So yes, its just like any other business treat the customers fairly, with respect and courtesy BUT don't let them keep drinking free coffee! Thats what the bank is for! :) One last note, if you're really interested in making a statement DON'T buy any new cars…that only helps drive pricing up! One more last statement….that Chevy dealership you have moved away from is more than likely not owned by GM but by a local family or sole proprietor classified as a small business owner. They don't make cars they sell and fix them…its the way they earn living…I'm sure they were will willing to fix your car for a fair price but why would they pull money out of their pockets to do so? They would not…its business 101…good luck!
  • My brother drove my 2 door tahoe one day, gave it back and said a fuse popped. I think it was the accessory fuse in the interior fuse keeps the door locks, mirrors, and power seats from working. He replaced the dealer fuse (12 bucks) and said it worked...he then moved the seat again and it blew the fuse. I replaced the seats with seats out of a 99 burb...and they work fine (picked up another 12 buck fuse out of the salvage car). However, the door locks and mirrors don't work. I wouldn't think both actuators would go out at the same time as well as mirrors going out completely (they needed replaced anyway, but i don't care about them). Anyone know if it is electrical issue? Why would that fuse allow seats to work but doors not to work? I appreciate anyone's insight :)
  • Looking to purchase a certified 2008 Chevy Tahoe LTZ with less than 48K miles on it. I live in the NY metro area and all the dealer seem to have a standard asking price of 34K. I was wondering if anybody out there knew the true market value/actual selling price of this vehicle???? Any help would be appreciated.

  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Edmunds, Kelley's Blue Book, NADA, and AutoTrader for a start. Might check CarMax also.
  • After GM Customer Service verifies with the dealer that I documented a rusty bumper on my 2003 Z71 suburban well within the corosion warranty period, and that it was clearly a manufacturing defect (rusted from the inside out), they claim that it is not going to pay a cent because the corosion is not all the way through the bumper (at this point it almost is). Beyond the dealer and GM Customer Serivice has anyone found a path forward for this. To be treated like this makes it very difficult to see why "Buying American" benefits anyone.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Might give the BBB a call.
  • I accidentally opened my automatic garage door while my liftgate was up. 2005 Tahoe, Silver Birch Metallic. Left a long scatch. Google pointed me to a product called Dr Colorchip.
    Has anyone had any experience with this product? Thanks.
  • You might also check

    I purchased my 07 tahoe with 42,500 miles at $26,000 two months ago, found it listed on, although I live in NM and had to travel to Texas... It was well worth it!!!!! DON'T EVER BUY A GMC ACADIA!!!
  • Not sure if this will be any use to anyone but I just wanted to mention that I too experienced the special GMC touch when my guages acted up. My vehicle was out of the covered repair limitations so I started to repair them myself.

    I now repair these guages for $150.00 and that includes all of the backlighting and re calibration of the gauges.

    It is frustrating to own a $40 - 50 k vehicle and have it fall apart around you!

    Feel free to respond to this posting as I am monitoring all follow ups.

    Take care and if it makes anyone feel any better it wasn't just the Yukon but it was spread full gammut across all GM/ GMC vehicles... amazing don't cha think?

  • James,

    I’m sorry to hear that you (and many other posters) have not experienced satisfactory customer service.

    In the future, if you would like Customer Assistance in any way (help working with a dealership towards a repair, recall/warranty information specific to your vehicle), please email us with your information (name/user name, VIN, dealership) and we’d be happy to assist!

    GM Customer Service
  • rwilcox4rwilcox4 Posts: 1
    Angry Disappointed With GM

    My husband and I have been GM consumers for the past decade, wanting to support our American based companies...BIG MISTAKE!! Four years ago my husband was in a devastating car accident that left him with a traumatic brain injury, and various broken bones. It has been a long and painful recovery for my husband and our family; attempting to adjust our lives to the challenges of living with a traumatic brain injury and 8 surgeries to repair the damage that a head on collision left my husband with. Now disabled, my husband and I live, literally, paycheck to paycheck, trying to support ourselves and our two young children. As you can imagine it was a big decision as to what vehicle we would purchase to ensure our families safety. We chose a used 2007 Chevy Tahoe LTZ, with 80,000 miles on it. We chose this car because of its size and the reassuring measures of safety that it came with; ie. Onstar, the reverse alert system, and as I stated before its immense size. Although the vehicle was costly, we felt we were making the right decision. This is our ONLY vehicle, we didn't see the need to have two vehicles, since my husband is now disabled and unable to work, and the payment of the Tahoe was the MOST we could afford. At the time of purchase we were not offered an extended warranty, I was not even aware of the option to purchase one. Well, its been less than 15 months since we purchased our vehicle, and it now sits in Kentucky, at a dealership, While my family is home in Michigan.
    This past week we were able to go on our very first family vacation, by way of my Father-in-law's new home in Florida. While traveling back to Michigan, after a much needed fabulous family vacation, our Tahoe shut down while traveling at 75mph down I-75. There we were stuck on the side of I-75, in Kentucky (6hrs from home) with our two young children. Onstar Quickly got a tow truck out to us and we thought we were on our way to solve the issue. Because it was a Sunday all the local dealerships in the area were closed. We had the driver drop us and our car off at an Auto parts store, they hooked up a tool to "read" the issue with our vehicle and it read it out to be the Cam shaft position sensor. We changed the part and thought we would be on our way, wrong! For NINE HOURS my husband and some local good Samaritans worked on our car in 90 degree heat. It could not be fixed. After purchasing two new sensors we had only a hundred dollars to our name. We were forced to stay overnight in one of the most disgusting hotels I have ever seen, with my Children! The next day we had the car towed to the dealership. First they told us it was the fuel pump...Nope. Second, they said it was the computer Module...Nope. Finally, they said our engine would have to be taken apart, because these "Certified Technicians" now believed that the Time chain was broken...Yup. The Technician even told us the time chain was faulty, said it never should have been put in our vehicle in the first place! He even went so far as to show my husband the "weak link" in the chain!!!!
    So here were the options we were presented with, pay $6,200 for a new engine, or $3,000 to rebuild ours!!!!!!! Its a 2007 Chevy Tahoe LTZ, and too bad for us 10,000 miles over the warranty. I was/am beside myself!!! WE HAVE NO MONEY!!!! I called GM Head Quarters begging for some kind of assistance. I was assured that we would be aided in the repair and costs of such, by a costumer rep. She took all my information, the fact that my husband and I had owned 9 previous vehicles, between us, which were always certified GM products, and said we would be helped. I was told I would be contacted by the District rep for my area. The next day I was in-fact contacted from the District Rep, who was located in ARGENTINA!!!!!!! All she said was there was nothing GM could do for us! I asked how could she be the district Rep for GM, for my area (MICHIGAN), when she was located in ARGENTINA?!!!?? She had no real answer. This company whom wants to be recognized as an American Company, that American consumers should buy American, has the nerve to have their LOYAL consumers swept under the carpet by a Rep from ARGENTINA!!?? The Head Quarters are based in MY home State, not even an hour away from my doorstep, but yet they have someone whom can not even speak fluent, proper English, dealing with their LOYAL consumers???? And meanwhile my families ONLY vehicle sits in Kentucky.
    I will never in my life buy another GM product from this AMERICAN based company! What a joke!! I can not even express the disappointment and regret I feel about giving this company my families money. Money which is so difficult for us to come by. We trusted this Company, put our families safety in their hands, only to be pushed aside when their "Faulty" part finally, inevitably, broke.
    By the way, we personally Know 4 other people whom own a GM vehicle with a 5.3 Liter, Flex- Fuel engine, whose engines have also needed to be replaced or re-built, between 92,000 and 98,000 miles!!!! Beware Consumers!!!!!
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    You have my sincere apologies - I am very sorry about this situation! Could we please get your case number (71-**********)? We would like to look further into this.
    GM Customer Service
  • Bought our 2008 LTZ new and other than a few little issues have loved it as a family vehicle.
    It has been garage kept and other than a few long highway trips a year my wife drives it a few miles a day to get groceries and take kids to school, 61,000 miles so far.

    A while back I noticed the black coating peeling off the covers on the steering wheel. I replaced them with matching burl covers (look beautiful) as dealer said replacing with OEM would just peel again.

    After reading posts here I inspected the dash...and sure enough there is a crack at the left top corner of the airbag going back to the vent. What is going on here? A $50k+ vehicle?

    After all the posts here and elsewhere about these dash problems, does anyone have info regarding an official recall or service bulletin where GM is taking responsibility for this design flaw?
  • I just want to take a minute and say that I am and always have been a big fan of Chevy, I have always bought Chevy products since I started driving.

    I have a 1995 Chevy Tahoe LT with the 5.7l V8 4x4 with 296k miles on it. I recently got the A/C fixed and properly filled with the right freon and the compressor has been replaced with a new one. I live in Las Vegas and the last 2 days the temps have been over 100 degrees. Ever since I bought the old beast 5 years ago I was just used to rolling the windows down and called that good, but after getting the A/C fixed and running properly I have noticed that while sitting at a red light or even sitting under a shaded canopy my temp really started to climb, normally runs around 180F. but today it was up to the mark in between 210 and 260. It also took a little time to cool down to it's normal temp when running while I was driving. I know it is normal for any vehicle to get a little warm when sitting in traffic when the A/C is on but after a few minutes with the vehicle in park under a shaded canopy I never expected it to climb that high. I have a brand new dual core radiator, a brand new thermostat, a brand new fan clutch and my coolant is all brand new as well 50/50 mix Dex-cool, my water pump is brand new as well. Why is my Tahoe running so hot? I litterally after shutting off the old girl opened the pressure releif valve on the radiator cap to releive the pressure from it running so hot and while it was filling up the releif canister it was also at a rolling boil, so I know that it had hit the boiling tempature of 228F. Is that normal? Even after 5-10 minutes of it sitting to cool down?
    Another unusual problem I have run across is when the A/C is running and I am cruising down the freeway at 55MPH my engine starts to rev up, at 55MPH my RPM is just a little under 2k but when crusing at 55 with the A/C going it revves up to 3k-3.5k then does back down, then climbs again. THAT IS THE ONLY TIME IT HAS DONE THAT! The transmission is rebuilt and has otherwise never given me any problems as well as the engine, it too has been overhauled. What explains that?

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