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Chevy Tahoe



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I had forgotten how many times to depress the pedal so did it 5 times rather quickly. And it reset itself.
  • dave5319dave5319 Posts: 51
    fishing line sounds like a much better idea then the floss. I had heard of that from someone else that used floss, but the fishing line would be alot stronger and cut just as good.
    Great Idea Gary...
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    Removed the "SLT" badges this morning. This time used the hairdryer, with good results. I think that the hairdryer worked well because the SLT badges are held on with glue instead of a double sided foam tape. Because of that, you can't get floss or fishing line behind the badge without contacting the paint. If you peel slowly, and press the badge back every so often, you can get pretty much most of the excess glue to stick back onto the back of the badge. I cleaned off whatever was left with the GooGone. The Un-Du was difficult to work with because of the vertical nature of the job - kept getting it all over the place, and didn't really need to use it anyway. Next up will the Yukon XL badges on the front doors.
  • dave5319dave5319 Posts: 51
    If I had to guess, it sounds like a bad ignition switch by the way you describe the symptoms. They can act up like that and its true if the dealer can't find the problem they don't know what to replace. But on the other hand with the description that you have given of the problem then they should have taken it a step further. I have seen this before on older models and its not an uncommon problem, usually not on a new truck but *&*^ happens. These trucks have 4 computers on board so that's why I can not say for sure this is your problem, but it does sound like a bad switch. I would go back to the dealer and tell them that this is a possible ignition switch problem and to replace it, If they won't help try another dealer or call GM direct. Just because they cannot duplicate the problem doesn't mean that there isn't one.
    Hopes this helps alittle.
  • gubbelsgubbels Posts: 2
    I had my 2000 5.3 Tahoe serviced just this Saturday. I told the service manger that it stalled again a while back. They checked the computer, and this time it set a code. They checked the bulletins, there was one having to do with engine stalling. They called in and hooked up with GM's computer and reprogramed the computer on my vehicle. I don't know why they didn't check for bulletins the last time, maybe it's new, I didn't ask. I don't have any bulletin numbers to give you, but if you ask your dealer they should be able to find it. I asked if it would help my poor -13- gas mileage. He couldn't give me a good answer.
  • I have a quick question I was hoping someone can help me with.
    I own a GMC Yukon and on my passenger seat the plastic part that holds the seat together has broke. Why it was made in plastic is beyond me. It is the part that allows the seat to recline and move forward. I was wondering if anyone knows who to contact to get a replacement? Any help would be much appreciated.
  • mhplummermhplummer Posts: 10
    Does anyone know how tall the '01 GMC Yukon w/16" Wheels and stndrd tires (inflated to spec) is WithOUT the cross members for the roof rack installed?

    Does anyone find the height of the Yukon/Tahoe affecting their city travel plans. Must you call ahead and inquire about the height of hotel's parking garages??

    It seems that the old body style was shorter.
  • lseradlserad Posts: 15
    I had to order my 2000 Tahoe LS (4WD) without a roof rack, so it would fit in my garage. The 2000 was 74.2" without the roof rack, and the literature said that the rack added 2.6" (my garage is 74.5 to the weatherstripping and 75" to the wood trim). You'd probably be 76.5 without the cross-members.

    I have been all over Downtown Philly and Manhattan, and only found 3 or 4 garages with a clearance of less than 6'3"...

  • andyl2andyl2 Posts: 84
    Nifty has decided not to make the second row floor mat to fit the Denali XL (all other mats fit). The 2nd row mat from the Yukon XL will not fit properly. Theresa Brewer is the customer service director. If enough people complain, Nifty may change their mind. Their phone number is 800-356-5666, ask for Theresa Bower. Tell her that you were told that Nifty will not be making a Catch-All for the second row of a Denali XL. If you want the mats, please call and bug her. She is on vacation until 3/12.

    Thanks for your help.

    In the mean time, any other mat suggestions would be appreciated in case we can’t get Nifty to change their mind and make the second row mat for the Denali XL.
  • mhplummermhplummer Posts: 10
    Thanks Iserad for your input. I was happy to see a '01 Yuk 4x4 parked in one of the pking garages with which I was concerned. The entrance warned of 6ft 3in clearance.

    (I talked to the attendant on my way out w/my Jeep who said the trick is to go very slow to prevent bouncing up. Famous last words!!)

    I am still thinking strongly about a Yuk; the long test drive I took was great. Just not certain I want to commute in something that big - (I have to parallel park 4-5 times per week. Piece of cake in my Jeep.)

    Thanks again...
  • lseradlserad Posts: 15
    >>I am still thinking strongly about a Yuk; the long test drive I took was great. Just not certain I want to commute in something that big - (I have to parallel park 4-5 times per week. Piece of cake in my Jeep.)<<

    I have no problems parallel parking my Tahoe, but maybe that's because I learned to drive in my Dad's Suburban in downtown Philadelphia!!! :-)

    I went from a 2-door 97 Blazer to the 2000 Tahoe. We're only talking a couple of feet difference. I live in the 'burbs but spend a lot of time in the city. I even parallel park on tiny streets. It took me a week or so to get the hang of it - it was no big deal. :-)

  • I bought a 2000 Tahoe last fall, and twice this year I have experienced a loss of braking. This is not a fading of brake power, but a complete loss of stopping power. Both times were on clean dry roads, on very slight hills. The last time was exiting from a highway. The Tahoe slowed well from highway speed to about 5-10 mph. At that point the braking just disappeared. I rolled about 30 feet at about 5 mph while pressing the pedal at far as it would go. The feel to the pedal was about normal. It did not go to the floor. This was after driving for only about 10 miles with no heavy breaking.

    There also seemed to be something amiss with the transmission, as when it finally did shift it was sudden and rough (jarred the whole truck). I read a few other posts where others have seen similar problems. Has anyone discovered what the cause is?

    I had it towed into the dealer, and they say everything is fine. I also called the Chevy Customer Assistance line, and they refuse to do anything as well. As this is the second time this has happened, I am VERY nervous about driving the truck until the problem is corrected.

    Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I wouldn't want to second guess your problem, not when the brakes are the concern. I would take it to a reputable mechanic and have them give it a good look at. If they find anything wrong you could have them or the dealer fix it and give the bill for the repair to the dealer for reimbursement.
  • coffey3coffey3 Posts: 2
    I just put my truck in the shop for the 5th time
    b/c the back air condiioner went out, it's been
    there for 4days b/c they had to order parts,has
    anyone else had that problem, and about 4months
    after I bought my truck they had to replace the
    fuel pump, the back windows, and my car jack,
    And every once and awhile it acts like it doesn't
    want to start,
    I've learn my leason, This was my first chevy and
    it will be my last chevy, I don't care for American cars that much.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I don't know what is going on with your truck, it just sounds like a batch of bad luck. I have had no problems out of my Yukon XL. You can request a loaner to drive until yours is repaired, or tell them you want your truck back and to call you when the parts are in. What was wrong with your fuel pump? Did it quit or was it making noise? I have heard of rear window motor problems on this board, but have not had any on my unit. How did you get a bad jack?! Never heard off that, what went wrong with it? I carry a small floor jack all the time, it is faster than using the factory jack. It cost $30 at my local parts store, with case. If you have a 2000 model with a 5.3L engine, there is a service bulletin for the dealer to re-program your engine computer, for the no-start/stalling problems that have cropped up. Have them check it out. What happened to the rear air? Just a fan motor,switch or what? If you look at this page and the Yukon XL page you will see plenty of people with very positive experiences with there choice. I am sorry to hear you have had so many problems with this one. If you like imports and want to appear to drive a US car/truck try the Chevy Tracker.
  • tomf11tomf11 Posts: 40
    I would like to install after market flares,as the OEM ( GM ) cost too much. I have seen Bushwacker has a couple of different styles. In order to install,it appears that the side vinyl protective moldings have to be removed on the front fenders,and timed on the rear door (4dr ) and trimed on the rear quarters. I don't want to notch the flares as thats a place for dirt to accumulate. Is there a way to trim the necessary molding's with out breaking the paint. To avoid a rust problem.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    I priced a set of flares for my 2K Silverado at the local Chevy dealer at about $800. I got at set at GM Parts Direct for about $254 + S&H. They were the gloss black type (not the matte black flares the local dealer quoted), and I have not received them yet, so I don't know if this will work out O.K. They also had painted flares at low prices. I don't know it the Tahoe flares would be as low, but it could be worth a look. I also found Chuck Hutton Chevrolet on line - priced a little higher but they pay S&H. I ordered at full set of body side moldings and the flares for my stripper (base model) for $374 complete. When I get my flares in a few days I will post again. Good luck.
  • jbfgatorjbfgator Posts: 1
    My Tahoe was my first American made car and I won't buy another. Granted we are at 100,000 miles, but we've already had one fuel pump, 3 compressors, 3 alternators, one master cylinder, 2 water pumps and a myriad of other repairs since we bought the car new in 1996. All maintenance and repairs have been done on schedule and at certified Chevy dealers. Since being paid off a few months ago we've shelled out $1,300 for various brake work and the problem is still not fixed. The brakes seem to be in constant need of some repair and have never really worked right. (Now the ABS light is coming on and when it does, the fan goes off.) This isn't to mention the shoddy interior that has cracked and literally fallen off since about 50,000 miles ago. GM basically blew me off when I tried to talk to them about the $7K plus in repairs and said "you should have bought an extended warranty." That tells me they make their cars to last the warranty period and that is it. I'd like to think that my car is just fluke.... but it's hard. I just caution all potential buyers to do their homework. No car is perfect, but when you spend this much for a vehicle and it literally starts falling apart at 50,000 miles - that doesn't speak well for the product.
  • airball50airball50 Posts: 13
    I've had similar, though not as severe, problems with my 2000 that I bought in May. Occassionally, I'll get a seeming total loss of braking but it only lasts for about a second or two tops. Also, I've had times where the tranny feels like its shaking the whole truck. Let me know if you find out anything interesting. As for me, the dealer, who has generally been pretty good, checked it over and found nothing.
  • sanjilsanjil Posts: 2
    I live in Minneapolis, Minnesota and own a 2001 MC Yukon, 5.3L V8. I have about 5,300 miles on the vehicle and the mileage on this vehicle has not improved yet. In 2 wheel drive I am getting 11.5 mpg in the city and on the highway I am getting 13-13.5 mpg. I wanted to post this message to see what kind of gas mileage other Yukon owners are seeing. Any information on this would be appreciated.
    Sanjil Set hi
  • greenhgreenh Posts: 3
    I have two rattles in my 2000 Denali, which 5 trips to the dealer have not cured. I was wondering if anyone else had similar experience and a clue to possible solutions. The first rattle is in the front passengers window area, and sounds like the glass is flexing. Turning a corner or hitting a bump will cause this "chucking" sound in the glass. On less than smooth secondary roads, the noise is continuous. Dealer has adjusted everything associated with the window with no success. The second rattle is a true rattle - somewhere in the very back of the interior - either in the barn doors or right side - which manifests itself when the car is cold, and last about 10 minutes. Any clues would be much appreciated.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    I have a 2001 DXL (therefore can't provide much help on the post regarding the 2000 Denali rattles since it is an entirely different vehicle). I am getting 12.5 mpg with the 6.0L and AWD on the trip computer. I am hopeful that the fuel economy will improve as the engine breaks in.
  • airball50airball50 Posts: 13
    With the stock rims and tires on my 2000 Tahoe, I got anywhere from 12-19 mpg, depending on where I was driving. I tend to do alot of freeway driving, but when I would do alot of in town driving, my mileage was right around 13-15, so yours seems a little low relative to what I was getting. I put bigger rims and tires and lost about 1-2 mpg. Hope that helps.
  • nsxwesnsxwes Posts: 84
    I have a 2000 Yukon with the 5.3L motor and about 12,000 miles. Best gas mileage has been 16.8 mpg with an average of about 12.5 mpg. Any around town stuff and the mileage drops accordingly.

  • jamesk4jamesk4 Posts: 55
    yes, I have a 2000 GMC ext cab, and I have the same little clicking rattle coming from around the top drivers door hinge area. Touch the brake and you get a click, turn, and get a click. On a smooth road, nothing, bumpy road, you get dozens.

    Note: I put oil on the adjuster rod pivot that turns the interior lights on and off,(it is located below the top hinge) and the door clicked like crazy. I believe it has something to do with that rod. I am going to put a big rubber band around it and the door hinge and see it tension stops the noise. Please, it you fix yours, reply back.
  • onalaskaonalaska Posts: 21
    My 2000 Yukon 5.3L 2WD 3.42 rear axle has about 24,000 miles on it now. After about 3,000 miles the gas mileage has averaged about 17.5 MPG. Worst mileage has been about 15.5 MPG with a lot of city driving, best mileage was 22 MPG with all highway driving in Colorado with the A/C off.

  • I have a 2000 Yukon, 5.3L, 4WD with about 16000 miles. So far, worst fuel economy was about 13.5 mpg when driving through the snow country in Vermont mostly in 4WD. Best mileage has been 18.8 mpg going all highway, no A/C, in 2WD. Average over the whole 16000 miles has been about 16.9 with at least 65% city driving. My gas mileage was not affected by the cold temps.
  • dan176dan176 Posts: 1
    Having read many threads on the vibration/harmonic distortion problem with the 2000 Suburbans, I was curious if any of these vibration or noise distortion problems are present on the 2001 Tahoes? Are there any other known issues for the 2000 or 2001 Tahoes that a new buyer should be aware of?

  • bberardbberard Posts: 2
    I've checked with my dealership as recently as last week about the 5.3 L stalling problem and they blew me off. If someone could come up with the bulletin number or any other info I can give them, I would appreciate it. I'm bringing it in next week for the brake recall. I've also experienced the brake fade 2 times (last Fall) but didn't have it checked at the time. I was braking slightly heavy for a stop sign, at a slight dip in the road, the abs kicked in and the brakes softened but still stopped ok. I will have it checked out now that I've seen it mentioned here.
  • edad333edad333 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2001 Chevy Tahoes which came with P245/75R16 tire sizes. I now want to put on P265/60R17 wheels and tires. I was told by a service representative at a Chevy dealer that if I put on this size tires that it would throw my speedometer off, could lock up my transmission, and it would void my extended warranty. Does anyone know if any of this is true?
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