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Chevy Tahoe



  • dfwk2500dfwk2500 Posts: 68
    Take the Antenna and swing it down so it points at the ground instead of the sky. Look about an inch up the antenna (now an inch down towards the ground) from where it mounts to the glass and there will be an allen screw. Loosen the screw slightly and adjust the antenna to whatever angle you need. Once you have adjusted it, retighten the allen screw and swing the antenna back up to the upright position. If you don't have an allen wrench handy, you can probably adjust it carefully by hand just hold both parts of the assembly near the joint. I adjusted a co-workers 00 Yukon like that a while back with no problems. Hope that helps.

    I did not have to remove the base from the glass or or make any other adjustments to the system.
  • mitch43mitch43 Posts: 10
    Thanks for the post. I will try it tonight!
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    Since the base model has only front A/C, will the rear seat passengers be adequately cooled without rear air? I drove a couple of Yukons with rear air and it did seem very noisy with the rear A/C going - so I would rather not have it if the front A/C alone could do the job. The Texas desert would seem to be a good test for this front A/C only SUV. I appreciate getting your thoughts on this.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I would get the dual A/C it will cool quicker and keep a more constant temp in the truck. I drove vans, both mini and short full size, for many years and the rear passengers always complained about being to hot in the summer and to cold in the winter. In order to make them comfortable the front passenger and driver had to cook or freeze. I have a Yukon XL, and with the rear heat in the cold Michigan winter no one had any complaints. The Tahoe is smaller and I would imagine it would cool it down, or heat it up really quick, and once it is comfortable you can turn down the fan, it doesn't need to be on high all the time.
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    Base Tahoe does not have a rear A/C option. We chose white for that reason. I think of it just like a station wagon with front A/C.
    The LS package for $5-6K comes with rear A/C, Climate package for $1.2-1.5K has front A/C, rear defroster and cruise for the base model.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    Since you only have a 2 seat option in the base Tahoe, maybe the front A/C only will be OK.
  • gmcdongmcdon Posts: 3
    Several months back I posted the GM part numbers for those black factory 3/4 ton Yukon XL wheelwell moldings [as given to me by a GMC partsman]. It was stated two numbers had changed. Can you tell me what you have learned about them? I also thought these pieces would give my Yukon a nice finished look. I know the front fenders are identical but the fact is, nobody has confirmed if the rear moldings will fit for sure. I will not spend $125 on a part I can't return! Thanks.
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    gmcdon -

    The following is what I posted several weeks ago to uncommonman in regards to the fender flares:

    "OK, here's the deal. My local dealer had a 2500 YXL in the lot. I measured the vertical width (height) of the flares using my handy-dandy calipers and tapemeasure. This is what I got: 1.25" toward the front portion of the flare, widening up to about 1.5" half way up the wheel arch (about where the cut-out on the Yukon's door would be) and across the top portion. I also measured a Yukon on the lot, and the portion of the arch by the door measures 1.25". So - if the flares were a consistent 1.25", they would fit. But, unfortunately, they're not, and the extra .25 inches would get hung up by the door as you try to open it. Shimming it so that the extra .25 inches are toward the wheel away from the door probably wouldn't work, because of the irregular shape of the body panels and how the flares fit every nook and cranny. Bottom line? Out of luck, it won't work."

    Another option would be to use the Bushwacker Street Flares, which are a little taller / wider (height wise) than the OEM 2500 YXL flares, and mount on the rear door vs. the wheel arch below the door. You would need to either remove the body side mouldings, or trim the flares to fit over the mouldings as others have done.
  • cray8cray8 Posts: 1
    Above about 40 MPH, I get a vibration that I think is caused by one of the drive shafts. It doesn't change if I put the transmission in neutral while going downhill or shift to a lower gear. Had an old Blazer with a bad -joint that had a similar vibration. Has anyone had a vibration like this?
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    I was checking fuel mileages and making other comparisons and noticed that the Suburban is within 100 pounds of the weight of the Tahoe. Its fuel mileage with the same engine (5.3) is also the same. But its price is $2K more in the base model.
  • ees1996ees1996 Posts: 31
    I am looking for a yukon with the cloth bucket seats in the Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky Area. Also will purchase from the FayettevilleNC/ Raliegh area. 2wd with traction control. Will take any suggestions on dealers or should I order from the net? Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!!
  • lcolascilcolasci Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Yukon SLT and cannot seem to find the interior air filter listed in the manual. Any help would be appreciated.

    Also, I have a Bizzare stitch on my drives side seat under the seat belt bracket. I noticed at the dealer that many of them had some variation of this stitch. I cannot understand how someone looked at this and decided it should leave the factory. Does anyone else have this stitch ?
  • greenhgreenh Posts: 3
    I previously reported several rattles and a respondant asked me to post the solution if it was ever found. I believe GM is making progress in eliminating these rattles. The GM rep reported that there are a lot of similar rattle problems on the Escalade (same vehichle as the 99/2000 Denali), and they believe the source is the running boards (believe it or not) even though the sounds appear to be emanating from the doors and/or windows. They tightened both of my running boards (although they weren't loose, per se), and the rattles are significantly diminished, though not entirely gone. The running board theory seems to have some credibility. My dealer has offered to loosen and re-attach the running boards if I am not satisfied with the current level. Try having your running boards tightened; I think this procedure may help you.
  • sprakermsprakerm Posts: 1
    I am considering ordering a 2wd Yukon with leather and third seats. I will not be towing anything and therefore will not be getting the towing package. My concern is the 4.8 engine. Will this V-8 have enough punch for highway driving? Will it be able to handle the AC and other options without a noticeable loss of power? All of the dealers here, central Virginia, have only 5.3 4wd on their lots. Does anyone have experience with the 4.8 in a 2wd Youkon that can put my mind at ease?
  • aimonaimon Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Tahoe 2WD that I love. In the last couple of weeks, however, I've noticed that when I'm stopped in gear (such as at a stoplight) with the a/c on, there's a strong vibration in the steering wheel. It stops when I turn off the a/c and it doesn't do it if I'm in park. I'm after my husband to get it in to the shop, but until he does, does anyone have any ideas?

  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    This is from Jim on GMSUV
    The interior air filters are not difficult to change. There are 3 hex-head screws that hold the black plastic cover on under the right side of the dash. Then you remove a screw that holds the filter cover on, which is under the glove compartment. I changed mine at 15K, although it had a lot of black dust from driving in traffic, it looked like it could have gone a while longer.
    I got the filters from (Flow Chevrolet). The list price is $22.49 but sells them for $13.47. I have ordered other stuff from them in the past and they have always delivered the parts quickly. You do need to know the 8-digit GM part number to order with the on-line system, and they do have a minimum shipping charge of around $9.00 (UPS ground), so they may not cost effective with small orders.

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    check out this site he has a pic of what you need to remove

    in case the pic doesnt show up below

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240

    Cabin Air Filter
    For reference, what you see at the top of this picture is the bottom of your glove box. To check/replace your cabin air filter, remove the screws at #'s 1, 2, and 3. the entire plastic cover below the white dotted line in the picture can then be pulled down. but do so gently, as it will still be attached in the back. from here, reference your owner's manual - it will show you how to disengage the clip that holds the filter elements in place. replacement elements can be purchased from your dealer's parts department and run about $28 for a box. a box contains two elements - enough for one change. so yes, once you get the first element out, don't quit...there's two in there.
  • jamesk4jamesk4 Posts: 55
    I bought my YXL from a dealer in middle Tenn, $200.00 under invoice, send me an E-mail for more details if interested.
  • everharteverhart Posts: 59
    I've got a couple of LS Cast Machine 16"- 6-lug 1/2 ton Tahoe wheels for sale. If you need a spare for a 5-tire rotation or want to mount snow tires,whatever let me know $100.00 plus shipping each. Leave message here or at Thanks Brent
  • mike6298mike6298 Posts: 2
    Any detailed suggestions for the best bang for the buck for upgrading the factory speakers/amplifier etc. on a 2001 Tahoe with the CD/Cassette and nine speakers with sub.
  • Our 2000 Tahoe does the same. Also first thing in the morning in reverse. I can feel it in the seat and wheel. I can feel it with the AC off but moreso with the AC on.

    I mentioned it to the dealer when we first got it. Got the "they all do it" response. Now one year and 10K miles later I am going to bring it in soon and try again.

    Please keep me posted as to what if anything your dealer does so I can pass it along to mine. Likewise I will do the same. I know one other person who hangs around here (used to?) that had the same problem and same dealer response. This is a tough one. But maybe one of us can get someone to fix it and start a trend. It is really my only complaint with the truck.


  • I bought a new 2001 Yukon last week (4/18).

    In general I like it, but there have been
    two problems. One was a loud rattle
    in the door which the dealer fixed. This
    was caused by a loose screw in the rear
    drivers side window channel.

    Now I noticed the climate control does not work.
    Yesterday in Chicago it was 48 outside and
    with the fan on Auto, and the internal temp set
    to 74, cold air was still blowing out of the
    vents. When set to 82, still cool air
    (although less so). I double checked the manual
    and experimented with several settings.
    For instance, this morning I had it on 82,auto
    fan and auto mode for an hour on the way to
    work and still no heat, it was rather cold.
    The only way I can get heat is if I put the
    temp setting all the way to the right
    (clicked to the red stripe)
    which forces max heat according to the manual,
    so I know that I can produce some heat.

    Possibly a sensor problem, which I have to take
    it in for the second time, for two separate
    problems, in one week.

    Has anybody else had spotty new Yukon quality
    problems, or problems with the climate control ?

    I start to wonder what kind of quality control
    and testing these things go through, or
    what else could be wrong.
  • daju00daju00 Posts: 5
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I have one on my Yukno XL and notice no standing water. Mine used little plastic plugs that fit into 4 factory square holes in the bottom of the hood near the front. If yours uses the tape, take it back and get the one that uses the plastic plugs and screws. This gives the water a way to get out and doesn't get trapped by the long strip of 2 way tape that used to be used. Mine took all of 5 minutes to install. Got the clear one and had it painted to match the body color. Let us know what you got.
  • pmchalepmchale Posts: 1
    Am looking into a used Tahoe/Yukon, preferably in the 96-99 years. Anybody with thoughts on reliability and safety? Appreciate the insight...
  • lseradlserad Posts: 15

    I have the vibration in my 2000 Tahoe...2 dealers have told me "It's normal"...So I just turn the stereo louder and try to tell myself that's the cause...(heavy duty sarcasm there...)

  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    jgmilberg: Which Lund deflector did you purchase, from where and how much? Where did you get it painted and how close was the color to the actual vehicle color (what color is your YXL?)? Did you use the dealer for painting and how much did that cost? Are you satisfied with the deflector as I am considering it for my DXL. Thanks for the response.
  • virg7virg7 Posts: 7
    I have a '97 4wd LT Tahoe with about 70k miles on it. You need to be aware that the injectors have a tendency to get clogged and shut down. You will get the check engine light and your car will be running on 7 cylinders.
    This is a known problem for all vortec engines from 96-99, but according to GM only happens in California(They say it is the gasoline that is causing the problem). I received a letter from GM as did my friends, that states that GM is aware of the problem and will fix this for 10 years free of charge. If you still purchase one, have the injectors power cleaned and the problem with take longer to show its head(about every 5k to 10k for me). The only other problem I have had is the alternator at 40k.
    Also, the dealers are giving about 80% of the wholesale kelley blue book for a trade in, so keep this in mind when you are shopping. Good luck!
  • You are the one I mentioned in my post, I just forgot your name....sorry.

    So, no satisfaction huh? Well, I'm not done with this yet, I need more frustration in my life ;-)

    I am going to try the dealer (maybe a PCM flash, tranny fluid pressure check). I am also going to try new plugs and 10/30 Mobil 1 oil in the hope that changing the idle harmonic slightly will cure it.

    We'll see. Keep ya posted.

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