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Chevy Tahoe



  • poc322poc322 Posts: 22
    I'm going to be picking up my 2001 Z71 Tahoe at the end of the week, and i've been looking at adding a few aftermarket accessories. The big one i'm looking at is adding a brush guard. I'm not looking to do a front end replacement, but looking for a strong but good looking guard. I've basically narrowed it down to a ranch hand, or a mannik. I was wondering what brands ya'll have used, and if ya'll have any suggestions. Plus i was wondering if anyone knows where i might find pictures of those two brush guards on a 2001 tahoe.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    gm supplier discount ended up to be about $500 under invoice on my silverado back in april of 00
  • I've read your messages on the deal you got on your Z71 and your question about brush guards.
    It sounds like you got a killer deal. I bought one of the first Z71 units in the LA area and paid $250 over invoice plus tax etc.
    As far as brush guards go make sure you get one that is frame mounted and will hold off road lights.
    I know you'll enjoy your Z71.
  • punjabpunjab Posts: 102
    I have seen previous posts regarding a lack of mid to low bass in GM SUV's, so to those interested in fixing this, see for an "essay" I wrote regarding how to fix the problem of the poor GM SUV audio performance. The fix takes about 2 hours, requires no special skills, and costs about $30. You'll be pleasantly suprised by the results.
  • I'm about to make a very important decision soon. I've been researching Automibiles lately, and come to the conclusion to either buy a used '96 Tahoe 2dr, or a '96 Cadillac DeVille Concours. Please help me in my decision to buy a new car. I may be a lil' weird to have an SUV and a luxury car as the last two candidates for me. Oh well. Well can some folks help me out here on which one to buy.
    Very Kindly,
    The World IZ Myn
  • vwellinvwellin Posts: 2
    I have had my Tahoe since 1998 when I bought it new. It has 61,370 miles on it right now and yesterday as I turned a corner, I heard a loud crunch/crash sound and then realized that I no longer had reverse or second gear. Apparently, this happens to numerous Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban vehicles. I was told by a transmission shop that the Sun Shield had broken and that the replacement parts would run me $250. The labor on the other hand was going to cost around $1200. Has anyone else had this problem and figured out a more cost effective way to deal with the problem? And why hasn't GM not taken responsibility for the recurring problem?
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Does anyone have a 2500 badge or Z71 badge for sale?
    The 2001 Suburban 2500 doesn't come with the badges on the front doors and I would like to have them. I know that some people have removed badges for ease of waxing, but if you never wax these are not a problem.
    How about the Suburban badge on the rear door or the Z71 badges on the sides? Anyone?
  • To #1209, theworldizmyn. Your choice doesn't sound weird at all, I have a 96 Yukon and a 94
    Concours. The Yukon has 46K miles the Caddy 34K.
    The Caddy is the most fun car I've owned out of 50 some. It's powerful, luxurious and very comfortable, an honest 20mpg on trips 17 around town, only one problem to date, a power window motor but, it won't tow a 5400# boat, which is why I bought the Yukon. The Yukon is 4WD so it rides a bit stiff. If your need is transportation I'd suggest the Caddy, operating costs will be less and there is nothing disappointing with the car. On the other hand if you truly need an SUV (I've needed the 4WD once
    when I was stuck at a boat ramp) you'll have to overlook a few disappointments.
    and is a 16mpg vehicle.
  • bliragblirag Posts: 4
    You can get the Z71 badges from Chuck Hutton Chevrolet at The part numbers are:

    Rear Plate Part# 15051184 $8.25 each.
    Side Plates Part# 15758148 $9.35 each (2 needed)
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    are you talking about

  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    Do these guys know what they are talking about? I just received this answer.


    Thanks for your inquiry to

     Here are your part numbers you requested.

    1. Mud guards are not available on truck with flares.

    You can go to on our home page there are spaces provided to enter in your part numbers to check prices or place your order.

    -----Original Message-----

    Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 11:32 AM

    To: GMPartsDirect

    Subject: Customer Service Request

    Make: Chev

    Year: 2000

    Model: Silverado


    VIN Number: 2gcek19t8y1282xxx

            Contact Information

    Name: Dustyone




    State: Zip:

    Message Text: Need part numbers and price for splash guards front and rear for truck with factory flares.

  • I have a 2001 Yukon SLT. Fully loaded with sunroof. I bought it in October of 2000. My question is can I upgrade to the automatic climate control just by switching the units out, or is it more complicated than that. Also I have a extra amp that I would like to put in just to power the sub for a little more bass, any suggestions?? I love the truck just should have gotten a little more for the money.
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    which I think GM calls "small wheel lip moldings". Did you see these on 2002 2WD Yukons, or just the 4WD Yukon XL 2500s? Thanks for the info.
  • thanks for your honest response. I've been to other web sites with boards like this one, but haven't gotten the good advice like this one. thanks for the help. now I know which car to get. I've now been looking like crazy for a used '96 Cadillac DeVille Concours.

    Very Kindly,
    The World Iz Myn
  • I just purchased a new 2001 Z71 Tahoe, Pewter, with a MSRP of around $38,900 for $32,200. My question to others is, how's this price? Tthis is my first chevy since the 1970 Impala I drove in H.S. Any recommendations on accessories that I should get? Thanks for any comments.
  • minikinminikin Posts: 389
    $6.7K off MSRP is a decent deal, even at the end of the model year -- for a Z71 Tahoe, it's great!
    -- Don
  • www57www57 Posts: 1
    Bought an '01 LS 4X4 in March. Immediately after driving it off the lot, we discovered the heater blower was not working on 3 of 5 settings. It took the dealer two days to discover an electrical connector was forced together at the factory resulting in misaligned prongs.

    Several months later, we discovered water on the front passenger floor. Returning it to the dealer for an oil change, the problem was a leaking evaporator casing. It took SIX days to fix because the dealer damaged the actuator motor and had to source both parts from Detroit. Once we got it back, within a week we discovered the glove box light was broken and the low coolant sensor was damaged. As my wife stood outside the dealer owner's office to complain, the service manager offered to take a sensor off a vehicle on the lot to get her on the way.

    Three days after this problem was resolved we discovered the rear audio controls weren't working - another day in the shop.

    Don't get us wrong - we love the power, versatility, towing capacity, etc. but we just got rid of another problem vehicle and don't want another lemon. Has anyone experienced similar problems?
  • poc322poc322 Posts: 22
    I just picked up my 2001 Z71 light pewter metallic on friday. It had an MSRP of 39710, which i was able to get down to 32535 which included the 1500 rebate. So i think the price you got was a good one, considering there are a lot of dealerships who are not willing to negotiate on Z71's since they are harder to come by. As far as aftermarket stuff. So far i've added a mannik brush guard,(which i think is better looking than the ranch hand), and i tinted the front two windows. The one thing i wish i had them do before they put the guard on was spray it down with that stuff they spray truck bed linners with. It adds extra protection to the guard. Other than that i don't plan on adding anything else soon. But in the future i plan on adding the plastics things that go over the windows, and i might go ahead and install the baja lights into the roof rack.
    But so far i'm extremely happy with the Z71, and was even happier to see that it can handle mud, and high water since i had to drive in flooded conditions this weekend.

    Just one question to the group. Not that it matters in the end, but the rear wiper does not go all the way across the window. Is it not supposed to, or can i have it re-ajusted?
  • tucsonjwttucsonjwt Posts: 283
    black fender flares like the 2001 Yukon XL 2500 4WDs. Does anyone know if the Yukon XL "small wheel lip moldings" will fit the regular Yukon as well as the Yukon XL? The clearance between the rear fender and the rear door looks like the doors would clear the small wheel molding, but it would be close.
    The short black "nipple style" antenna on the 2002s sticking up out of the driver's roof area does have an unusual extraterrestrial look, but at least you can tell a 2001 from a 2002 right away. Seems like the rear of the vehicle was a better looking place on the 2001s.
  • Please look at the thread in the SUV forum about brake failures on GM SUVs. I've had a serious failure and I'd like to see if any others have experienced it.

    joe_jensen "Brake Failures on GM Fullsize SUVs?" Aug 28, 2001 8:13am
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I remember some of you with the cold air on the passenger side of teh truck during the cold winter months. GM has now issued a TSB, here it is. If the dealer give a hassle give them the TSB number and tell them to fix the problem.

    I apologize for the long post, but it is the entire TSB, for those with "problem" dealers that don't like to look things up, so they can print it up to take with them.

    Passenger SIde of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers SIde (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl
    Seal) #01-01-37-008

    Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)

    1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models

    2002 Cadillac Escalade


    Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:

    1.Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
    2.Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
    3.There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.


    Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.


    Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:

    1.Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
    2.Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
    3.Open the hood and install fender covers.
    4.Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
    A.Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
    B.Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.


    Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.

    C.Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
    5.Lower the hood.
    6.Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
    A.On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
    B.Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
    C.Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
    D.Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
    E.Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
    7.Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
    8.With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
    9.Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
    10.Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC
    11.Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems
    only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
    12.Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some
    way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:


    It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.

    A.Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
    B.Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
    C.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from
    dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
    D.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet
    metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
    E.Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
    13.Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
    14.Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
    15.Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
    16.Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
    17.Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
    18.Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
    19.Lower but do not close the hood.
    20.Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten

    Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

    21.Raise the hood.
    22.Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.
    23.Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.


    Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for
    the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked positi
  • jasonrupjasonrup Posts: 13
    Looks just like Avalanche in the front and will have a mildly restyled interior to go with the mid-model freshening

    should carry over to the silverado as well.


  • jasonrupjasonrup Posts: 13
    Looks just like Avalanche in the front and will have a mildly restyled interior to go with the mid-model freshening

    should carry over to the silverado as well.


  • jumboagjumboag Posts: 1
    I heard a rumor the other day that GM is considering rereleasing a 2 Door Tahoe / Yukon for either 2003 or 2004... Has anybody heard anything or seen anything about this??
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    did you notice how its sitting in front of a dirty white silverado pickup?

    For some reason i get the feeling it was doctored up (computer enhanced)

    Dont take it the wrong way i did hear the silverados are getting the av grill soon also

    But that pic for some reason has fake written on it (in my opinion)
  • tomtorgtomtorg Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if there is an exact fit light that was supposed to come with the z71 pkg that fits in the circular knockout area of the heavy duty roof rack? I assume that Chevy had/has the part since the light was even advertised in their brochure. (I hear the FEds made them pull it since it could be turned on while driving, thus blinding drivers behind you). I WANT this light. Please email if you know anything about it. Much thanks, Tom
  • poc322poc322 Posts: 22
    I too am looking for those lights to put into the Roof Rack of my Z71. The dealership i purchased my vechile from said that they were baja lights and that i could purchse them from most truck accessior stores, or order them online. i'm still though waiting for the dealer to call me back with the dimensions. If you find anything out let me know. Plus i'm currious about how to wire the set up. I haven't looked that far into it, but hoping to find others who have installed the lights or maybe the dealer will give me an idea.
  • tomtorgtomtorg Posts: 2
    Mark...I will keep you do the same for me. Be careful...halogen lights, I think will melt the cargo rack plastic cover. I haven't torn off my rack covers yet but I am under the impression the wiring harness is in place and leads to the dash. If not, I am planning on running the lights to a switch location near the cargo door "door lock" switch inside the cargo area. I will just buy a factory switch and use a solvent to eliminate whatever writing is on it. I figure that will be the closest to stock we can get.

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