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Chevy Tahoe



  • I have what sounds like the same dashboard rattle as described by blh7068. Loudest/most noticeable when cold and seems to almost go away when warm. I browsed the Denali boards and it seems that a few had it over there too. They are saying that the dealer fixed by adjusting or replacing a heat shield around the muffler. That's too far back to be my sound but there's a tin (SS?) shield bolted low on the engine side of the firewall on the driver's side. My bet is that this might be it. Being present when cold and disappearing when warm would be consistent with a heat shield - I just hope that collectively we can norrow it down and resolve together. I'll let everyone know results of my experimentation - I ask others to do the same.
  • Just purchased new 2WD Yukon SLT with 5.3L V8. Am faced with the issue of purchasing extended warranty (Total Care by GMC)...rates vary from $900-1400 depending on duration and mileage(60-84 months-50-70,000 miles). Any suggestions to offer? I drive about 7,000-8,000 miles a year. Thanks
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    so far.....crossing my fingers. Bouncy? Not sure I would discribe it that way although I suspect one or both of the rear wheels is losing contact with the pavement kicking in the anti-lock brakes. As I said, it only happens at a heavily rutted intersection or cornering a little too quickly into a parking lot. It just feels like a pickup with a light weight rear.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    When I was shopping it appeared the Yukon had a subwoofer (the big speaker in the cargo area, driver's side) and the Tahoe did not. Nowhere in any of the specs did I read the Tahoe had a subwoofer unless I bought an upgrade pkg, and the Yukon listed it everywhere including the window sticker. Nevertheless, my Tahoe has a big round speaker back there under the grill and does exactly what a subwoofer is supposed to do.....make bass. Perhaps this is just an additional speaker in the Tahoe and different circuitry in the upgrade pkg or on the Yukon makes it a true subwoofer.
    Whatever, that big speaker back there makes pretty good bass but requires some power (volumn). By the time the volumn knob is up enough to get good bass the front speakers generate lots of sound. That's all fine if you wanna rock and roll driving down the freeway. On the other hand, the system sounds anemic turned down low. My solution for lower volumn listening is to fade the stereo bias to the rear. That allows you to lower the volumn up front, turn up the power, and generate a fairly nice bass from the back. How the passengers back in the third seats feel about this, I can't say....but hey, I'm the driver, I'm paying for it, and I like it that way.
  • rick135rick135 Posts: 21
    Thanks for the Website. I tried the Bypass procedure and it worked great! What a difference!
    I was considering changing out the head unit and all the door speakers but this "fix" (which the website says actually bypasses factory crossover networks) brings back depth, fullness and rich lower bass frequencies. Those trying this procedure should remember when using Scosche connectors the pins are numbered backwards, opposite of Metra connectors. THANK YOU !!!!!
  • cemmdcemmd Posts: 4
    Any help/opinions on the autoride option for the Yukon would be appreciated. I have been shopping for a Yukon for about a month now. Some dealers have ALL Yukons with autoride...while others have NO autoride.

    I will not do much towing.

    What are the benefits? Any cons?

    Thanks for any help.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I think it provides a smoother ride and somewhat improved handling and improved load leveling. Drive both for yourself on the smae roads and see....
  • snowdonsnowdon Posts: 38
    What website talks about this by pass.

  • punjabpunjab Posts: 102 is the website. Post 110 has all the info to make the harness, or you can contact the poster for more info on having one made for you.

    If you read the rest of the discussion, it appears that most are happy with the fix (just like rick135)

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Well my dads truck is having a hard time passing emissions. His truck is 10 yrs old over 100K. My mom was talking today (serious talk) about buying a new tahoe (for herself) if her company doesnt go under (will find out this month but it may be bought so i have my fingers crossed)

    Gotta start planning

    ANy tahoe owners can you help whats some good options. (it will be a 4wd since we get our share of snow) She will probably go LT again like in her blazer (which my dad will be getting as a hand me down)
  • cemmdcemmd Posts: 4
    Anyone have experience or opinion on the best mats for Yukon.

    Has anyone tried the "catch-all" mats?

    Need something to help with wet weather.

  • 3lakeswi3lakeswi Posts: 77
    I too have done the stereo bypass and the results are AMAZING. It is like an all new stereo in the Suburban. I have actually had to turn my bass way down. I used to have it nearly maxed out. This "fix" is incredible.
  • snowdonsnowdon Posts: 38
    I must be slow, why is everyone doing this, why not just turn up the volume to get the same results.

  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    ok, folks, do I understand the way to inprove the sound by an "amazing" extent is to disconnect the power amp and let the radio's built in amp power everything. Even though I went to the site and found a description of what was involved to do this, it seems to defy logic. Anybody have a theory on why GM would spend money to install a power amp that made the sound inferior?
    I have always considered myself fairly discriminating when it comes to sound. Most of the salemen think I'm nuts as one of the first things I do is pop a disk into the CD and crank it up. Considering some of the cars I've owned in the last decade (Volvo, Cadillac, Lexus, Mercedes) + custom stuff I had done to cars prior to that, I find the one in my Tahoe, acceptable. I don't call it great but it's pretty darn good.
    As I have mentioned before, I wonder if the complaint about the sound is at lower volumns. I tend to listen only to cd's and to crank it up when I'm in the mood for music. I would agree it sounds anemic at low volumn, and there may be some logic to a small amp creating a more balanced sound at lower volumn (although I'm no sound engineer). I'd be willing to bet at higher volumns bypassing the power amp gives you distorted and unpleasant bass which I do not get as configured.
  • 3lakeswi3lakeswi Posts: 77
    I can't describe the sound improvement that this fix makes. For less than $30 in parts and 1 hours worth of time the improvement is far superior to the stock sound. All sounds are louder, clearer and more prominent. I don't believe that the amp is being completely bypassed. I think only certain channels are. I too listen to a lof of CDs because of the lack of decent radio stations in Northern Wisconsin. All I can say is the sound difference is night and day.

    The only downfall is that almost all of those goofy little settings like "Jazz" "Country" "Rock" seem to be a little out of whack. I think the bypassed system sounds best with all of them off or in the "Pop" (I think it's called Pop) setting.

    No one is saying you have to do it. For 30 bucks if you think you liked the stock sound better unplug the bypass and everything returns to normal. No harm, no foul and all you're out is a measley $30. I too was hesitant to try this. However, after hearing the results I sure am glad I did!
  • punjabpunjab Posts: 102
    I believe that your are bypassing a crossover, not an amp. The factory head unit in the stock position or in the bypassed position is what powers all the speakers except for the sub and rear tweeters (which are powered by the amp).

    Although the bypass has no effect on rear audio controls,on-star, etc...I do think that the crossover is "dynamic" and was designed to deliver more bass to the front speakers when the rear audio headphones are plugged in (which turns off the sub, and rear speakers). However, once the system is bypassed, the front door speakers have more bass anyway, so this low-end boost isn't necessary.

    As 3lakeswi said, try it and if you don't like it, all you're out is $30 and a little of your time.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    to give it a try. How and where do I get exactly the info and hardware I need to do it? I'm absolutely all for great sound and my curiousity has gotten the best of me.
  • 3lakeswi3lakeswi Posts: 77
    Someone posted the Delphi link about 10 posts ago -- #1931.

    I got the parts from an online place because I don't live near a Best Buy or similar type of place. I would think that most larger electronics stores that do audio installation would stock the two required harnesses.

    I did this in one evening after work in a total of about 1 hour. It is very easy. The only other advise I would have is that the clip that holds tha amp in place is way up on top of the amp. Just put your hand up there and it clips off pretty easily. The actual installation of the finished harness takes about 5 minutes. Making the harness is what takes the other 55.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    Before I try to figure out exactly what I must do to improve my stereo, I wanted to ask if the "fix" discussed above only applies to the upgraded stereo in the Tahoe LT and/or Yukon, or will it also work on the base model stereo found in a base model 2002 Tahoe LS? If you know that answer, I would appreciate a post. Thanks!
  • 3lakeswi3lakeswi Posts: 77
    Does the LS have the 9 speaker (8 speakers plus one sub) stereo with an amp behind the glovebox? If so, then it will work. I have the Z71 which is an LS with the Z71 package and mine has that stereo.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    My LS does have 8 speakers with one sub. I assume it must also have the amp behind the glove box -but I'm not sure. Is that something I can see if I look? Do you have to take apart anything to see the amp and to get to it?
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Seems like the old year order interval ends about the 15th to the 30th of April.
    Anyone have a idea when the 2003 Tahoes can be ordered, Intend to order two as soon as the new options are known. Would like to see quadrasteer included as a option, as well as two-tone paint choices.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
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  • 3lakeswi3lakeswi Posts: 77
    The amp is right behind the glovebox. Just open the glovebox, push the tab on the right hand side to release it and it will drop all the way down. The amp is the small (about 4 x 6) aluminum box mounted in the top right corner.
  • punjabpunjab Posts: 102
    was in the Delphi post. Right behind the glovebox.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    Thanks for the help 3lakeswi and punjab!
  • fievelfievel Posts: 16
    I have been monitoring this board, as well as the Trailblazer/Envoy board, and the Durango board. I have decided to purchase a Yukon or Tahoe based on what seems like a fairly high percentage of satisfied customers. I'm also partial to GM since I currently have an 1988 Jimmy, and it has been a decent truck. I need a bigger vehicle as I recently bought a camping trailer that weighs almost 4,000 lbs (loaded) and the Jimmy just doesn't have the guts. Since I won't be ready until the fall, it is likely that I will get a 2003, which I am told will have some of the interior features that the Trailblazer/Envoy has. Also, I would like to see 17" wheels on the truck, as I think it would look much better with larger wheels. I don't want to buy now as I want a loan I can pay off in 12 to 18 months, so I have to save a bit more...

  • cwaynecwayne Posts: 81
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I posted the TSB for this problem before, if you scroll up you will find it. I think it was back in September/October. If you don't want to go through all that email me and I will email you the whole TSB. The TSB number is 01-01-37-008. Give the number to the dealer for them to investigate the problem.
  • momsz71momsz71 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Tahoe Z71 purchased in April 01 wth 6'400 miles. Well my question is has anyone had a problem with the front brakes? I just had to do new pads in Feb 02 and I only have 18,500 miles on the originals. Of course this was not under warranty! Dealer says this is common on these vehicles, I'm wondering if he was just telling me this due to my blond/female status.
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