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Chevy Tahoe



  • vinnynyvinnyny Posts: 774
    Sorry it took me so long to respond, but I've been out of town.

    My Tahoe has a rear sway bar that appears to be installed correctly. I'm taking it to the dealer this week to see if there might be some other problem. All I know is the rear end is very loose. Hopefully the dealer will figure it out!
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    Lobsenza - Although I don't claim to be an expert on these issues, the Tahoe literature clearly indicates that the auto-leveling feature is not unique to the Auto Ride suspension. The "Premium Ride" suspension, which is standard on all 2002 Tahoes, also has auto-leveling.

    My $.02 - If you are budget minded, I do not think the Auto Ride is worth the money unless you are intending to use your Tahoe a considerable amount on mixed roads (dirt and pavement). The suspension is already soft enough to absorb everyday bumps (too soft in my opinion) and the stiffer settings you could obtain with Auto Ride are of no real practical use since few of us use a Tahoe to set any road course records. The Premium Ride suspension is nicely tuned for the type of use that most Tahoes get. Also, when I test drove a Tahoe with Auto Ride around town, I could not tell a difference between it and the Premium Ride suspension. Perhaps there is a noticeable difference on the highway or on rougher roads.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    The premium ride uses the motion of the shock to level the vehicle over several miles. Autoride levels the vehicle immediately with a compressor. I would think the autoride method would be more accurate. Both suspensions are auto leveling, but the way of doing it is totally different.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    Lobsenza - Thanks for the info on the Premium Ride auto-leveling. I had no idea there was a difference between the two. I would be interested to know how they do it without a compressor. Does anyone know how it works?
  • grand6grand6 Posts: 12
    To those with front bench seat and seating for nine, does the front airbag protect the front row center seating position?
  • rob222rob222 Posts: 49
    The dealer has given me this info on a fully loaded Indigo Blue Metallic SLT stickered at $43,509:

    Base Invoice: $36,798
    Dealer Holdback: 1,293
    Advertising@ 1.75% 749 (he said this was the rate in our area)
    Dealer Prep 189 (he would waive to close the deal)
    Less: Rebate (2,000)

    Total before T&T $37,019

    Thought this data would be helpful to others. My question is, are below invoice deals possible? Any strategies you've used to get into the dealer holdback or advertising? If a GM family member can get $2k (no holdback and advertising) off this car, shouldn't I be able to get half of that?
    Thanks, Rob in Sterling, Va
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    I may be wrong, but I got my Sub granted an LS but with leather and the LS package of goodies (and some small ones too).

    I paid about (I really can't remember -- but about 35.5k). According to edmunds invoice on mine is about 36+

    Has your dealer kindly (sarcasm) added Holdback to the invoice price? Because it is already in the invoice, if he added it, then that is an additional 1200 or so.
  • zenfulnesszenfulness Posts: 11
    Well, I finally completed the deal on a 02 Tahoe LT. Major facts about the truck. The big engine,leather, preferred package, trailer package, autoride, locking diff, 4wd, skid plate package, and every other bells or whistles I could get out of them without giving up my first born.

    Cost: retail $42,378.00
    Paid after rebate: $35,799.00
    Then add in CA taxes, license fees, and tire fee.

    Received the vehicle with 7 miles on. And thus far I have put on over 600 miles. I truly believe that I got the most vehicle for the buck! I really love driving this truck!!! The steering is tight, you can really feel the road, you feel in control of this vehicle. I have a Ford truck for work, and crossing over was a real challenge for me. But brother, I am glad I did, and I haven't looked back since! Hope this helps out for some of you. This board was a great help in making up my mind on some of my issues with this vehicle. Thanks to all!
  • scot2646scot2646 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2002 Yukon SLT. It was manufactured in Arlington, TX. After about 200 or so miles, I began experiencing a ringing noise that originated in the engine area. It only occurs when I lift my foot off of the accelerator. While the accelerator is engaged the noise will not occur. When I took it to the dealer, they told me since these vehicle are made in TX. they are designed to take ethanol as well as gas. The noise is originating in the fuel rail, and that it is normal due to the ethanol aspect. I have friend that have the same model and year that do not experience this noise. I was wondering if anyone out there has experienced the same thing. If so, how were you able to resolved it.
  • adunkeradunker Posts: 32
    Jaw, you've already stated that you paid invoice for your vehicle, now your saying you paid under invoice?
    Rob, the base invoice is like the base MSRP on the sticker. Options still have to be added, just like holdback and advertising. Like I've stated before, Holdback is only there for the first 90 days a vehicle is on the lot. It deminishes during that 90 days until it isn't there anymore. That is GM's way to help the dealer keep the vehicle on the lot(taxes, interest, ect.). Your chances of getting a deal under invoice is slim to none. GM will pay the dealer back for sales to Employees or Suppliers, not anybody else.
  • punjabpunjab Posts: 102
    I'd get a second Arlington tahoe doesn't ring, and we don't use corn gas down here in texas anyway.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    "When I took it to the dealer, they told me since these vehicle are made in TX. they are designed to take ethanol as well as gas"
    So all vehicles made in TX are intended to remain there and use the corn gas? More of the same dealer crap. They will say anything to make the customer go way after the sale. Are all dealers this way or only the General's?
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    I am not trying to have a war of words with you. There is a person here who is seeking advice, with all due respect, most people do not trust dealers or dealerships to offer any real information.

    But let me ask you what's in it for me? I can tell you absolutely nothing, so that said, what value would there be for me to lie, and why must you find it so important to suggest that I am?

    Next thing you know, you'll tell me that I don't even have one.

    I am simply trying to offer any incite or information I have to a fellow buyer if he is able to use any of it, then all the better. But, let's allow me, you and him to determine reality versus fiction.

  • adunkeradunker Posts: 32
    Guess what I did before I was an Internet Manager. I prospected good deals online just like you and everyone else here. Now that I have solidified myself in the business, I offer insight to shoppers like I used to be. This insight is fact, not fiction. I do leave it up to the consumer that wants the info to determine for his/herself. Suggest you lie? I am merely saying that earlier to informed another buyer that you yourself paid invoice for a vehicle, and that no one else should pay more than invoice for a vehicle. You now assume you paid less than invoice with your statement,"I paid around $35.5K for mine, Edmund's shows invoice to be over $36K." You have a fascination with wanting to know all about holdback, and wanting to haggle this holdback. You show me a dealer that will legitamatly dip into holdback, and I'll show you a dealer that is fighting to survive. Fact is, dealers believe it is a sin to sell below invoice and typically won't do it. That is the reason why I stated haggling for holdback is a chance of slim to none. Will a dealer sell at invoice? If it has to. Will a dealer sell below invoice? Not likely.
    Don't have one what? You didn't say it, but I assume you mean an oppinion. Everyone has one, you're entitled to yours. I won't refute that. However, look for an opinion on the message board that hasn't been challenged. You probably won't find one. That's what makes life interesting, debating on what you know.
    I'll leave it up to the one asking for advice to determine if I'm telling the truth. By your suggestion, I know you think I am lying. Now I ask you, "Why do you find it so important to suggest that I am?"
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I don't care about holdback - I just pay attention to the "price out the door". The dealer's accountant can write up my purchase price in the books anyway he likes.

    Can we return to the Yukon/Tahoe please?

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  • rob222rob222 Posts: 49
    I was all set to try to get the $800 fee for advertising in my invoice price knocked out. I figured because it was so easy to get to invoice with no fees, why not further?

    One other question, can a VIN number give you any additional data to assist you as you compare cars? Thanks.
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    How's about a donut?
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    Have you priced it out on Edmunds (or any of the other sites) to see what possible differences you might encounter?
  • adunkeradunker Posts: 32
    If someone is saying they are charged $800 for adveritising, that sounds high. The most we are charged is around $400. Advertising is one of those fees that are charged to the dealer, this does not come out of the invoice. The price stated on the invoice is the price the dealer has to pay.
    The VIN itself is set up to let you know a little about the vehicle. It can tell you the brakes, chassis, body type, engine type, model year, and plant where it was built. As far as specific features, you would have to find a place that knows what was on that vehicle when it was built. That would be difficult. If you can find one, let me know, I would love to check it out.
  • jdh8jdh8 Posts: 9
    Has anyone changed the fuel filter on their Yukon/Hoe? I've got a 2000 Yukon and I would like to change the fuel filter. I've got a set of instructions that says I need a fuel pressure gauge for the job. I've never done this procedure before, but I'd like to do it myself. Does anyone know where I can get a fuel pressure gauge for this job?

    If so, please e-mail me at

  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    at or near invoice, and also are getting the $2000 rebate. See dardson's post #1900 as an example.
  • waggywaggy Posts: 6
    factory invoice pricing includes holdback and advertising fee. I just bought a Yukon SLT with running boards, third seat, aluminum wheels and heated seats/ onstar with a msrp of 39968, I paid 300 UNDER factory invoice, plus 2000 rebate, plus tax, title and license....this was the best deal I could find in the Orange County, California area. It seemed as though most GMC dealers in the area had formed an alliance not to sell for less than 500 over invoice. The dealer I ended up at was contacted through or something like that. After initial email from dealer stating the 300 under factory invoice offer, I made an appointment with the designated dealership contact, walked in, no hassle and very matter of fact, Deal done. I have to say I was skeptical about their offer based on postings on this site and was sure I was in for them trying to renegotiate the deal once I got there. Hmmmmm....I hope I got a good deal.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    are a steal right now. GM seems to have made the decision to keep pumping out the trucks and sell them for less money. I bought a modestly equipped Tahoe in February for $28k (big engine, liftgate, and upgrade tires). That's pretty much what I paid for the same Tahoe in '96. A medicore sedan costs 25ish these days. Don't get too lost in the the details. With the rebate and the near invoice pricing, these vehicles are a screaming deal. Better grab one while the deals last, IMHO.
  • vinnynyvinnyny Posts: 774
    I bought my 02 Tahoe LS with most of the LT options for invoice plus $300. I kept the $2,002 rebate and also got a $500 loyalty rebate. The details follow:

    MSRP: $37,054

    Invoice: $32,822.52
    (includes holdback $1089.72 + advertising $363.24)
    Mark-up: $300
    Total: $33,122.52
    Less rebate: (2,002)
    Less loyalty: (500)

    Total paid: $30,620.52

    I'm not sure if that means I paid "less than invoice" but I was pleased with the deal. I probably could have gotten the dealer to take off the advertising fee and the extra $300, but the dealer was helping me out by shipping the truck to Hawaii, so I didn't want to push my luck. Anyway, no dealer in Hawaii will sell one of these trucks for less than MSRP. They even try to get more than sticker and keep the rebates themselves!

    By the way, I believe the GM loyalty rebate applies to all current GM owners and leaseholders. The dealer probably won't tell you about it, but the program number is 02-31CJ.
  • wingfoot1wingfoot1 Posts: 2
    Have a 1999 Yukon 4x4 with a vibration. It runs smooth as silk below 65mph, but over it starts a vibration. Example, 10 sec. smooth, 5 sec vibration, over and over again (times are examples). One tech said a transmission bearing. I have had 18 different tires installed over the last month with the same results. With the Michelins it got a little better, but is still there. Planning a 8.000 mile tip in August and really could use a solution. Has anyone out there had the same problem?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Did you have them check the rims? Sometimes, the rims are defective but you'd never know without testing them without the tires mounted.
  • mustangronmustangron Posts: 44
    I've got a new Tahoe Z71 with leather seats. What is the best stuff to use to maintain the seats?
  • onebuconebuc Posts: 28
    Have a 2001 Tahoe LS, with Tow and Traction package. When towing a double axle boat trailer at about 4000#, The trailer starts swaying dangerously at about 58 MPH. It also seems to sway as I let off the accelerator approaching turns, no brakes applied at all. This is happening to a boat/trailer combo that I have had for 5 years, and towed and still tow with no problems with an F150. I have made several trips over 200 miles with the pickup cruising 60-65 MPH and no problems. I still prefer to take the Ford, even on short trips, because of the problem. Is this something the Tahoe could be responsible for? or is it the trailer? my only guess is maybe the distance from the truck tires to the trailer tires are different.
    Any thoughts.
    Thanks A Lot
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    You may want to ask over in the Towing tips for SUVs discussion too.

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