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Chevy Tahoe



  • xyz71xyz71 Posts: 179
    No break in on a differential - If they just replacced some parts I would change the gear oil after 6-7K miles. But if it was a complete replacement I would not bother.
  • ojsosaojsosa Posts: 2
    Hello All - Having problems with the dealer and my new Z-71 Tahoe '02. Can someone clarify...
    (1) Are the side-view mirrors self-dimming STANDARD in the 2002 Z-71 Tahoes?
    (2) Don't they come color-matched from the dealer (when special ordered)?
  • vubsvubs Posts: 14
    Has anyone had bad u-joints make noises/rattle? The problem is very difficult to explain and duplicate if one has no idea what is wrong. The entire staff at Steakley Chevrolet (Dallas), including the shop foreman, misdiagnosed the problem as being bad O2 sensors. Needless to say, the engine light was never on. So after several trips, some new sensors and $$$, the problem persisted. A local shop finally fixed the problem correctly. Moral of story: not a good idea to use dealerships for any service other than a quick oil change, if even that. Their inexperience negates their convenience. I do love my 2d Tahoe, though, and long for their return!
  • ABOUT 4 MONTHS ago i purchased a new 02 tahoe. I have been having alighnment problems. dealership fixed it twice but problem still persists. my steering wheel is also centered to the left. i am slowly finding other tahoe owners with the same problem. i am currently taking GM to arbitration to get a repurchase of my tahoe. email me at if you have the same problem.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    Thanks for the response xyz71! My horror story is growing more gruesome by the hour! On Friday, I picked up my 02 5.3l 4x4 LS Tahoe (with 7000 miles) from the dealership after having the entire front differential assembly replaced (all the fluid leaked out and I had started to burn up all the metal). After bringing it home, I noticed it was still dripping fluid from the transfer case. I brought it back to the dealer and now have to take it in again to have them replace all the seals in the transfer case. Even worse, after getting it back from the dealer the second time, I filled it with gas and checked the oil. You guessed it - there was no oil on the dip stick! I waited about 20 minutes to make sure all the oil was drained into the pan and checked again - no oil! I added about 2 quarts to get it back to the full line. Ironically, the "check engine oil" light came on (for the first time) after I restarted the engine.

    I have called the dealership again and they have tried to convince me that it is normal for my 5.3 engine to burn 2 quarts of oil in 3000 miles. Is everyone else's 5.3 liter burning 2 quarts per 3000 miles?

    Does anyone have any experience with a GM buy-back? Does my situation warrant a buy-back? Do they deduct mileage and any damage from the buy-back price (I have a small scrape on the front fender). Do they actually buy back the vehicle - or do they replace your vehicle?

    Any advise would be greatly appreciated!!
  • eman5eman5 Posts: 110
    Is Stabilitrack (sp?) available yet? Heck, for that matter, are the 2003 sales brochures in any showrooms?
  • My 2001 Tahoe has developed the telltale "valve tick" symptomatic of collapsed lifters at only 40,000 miles. I have maintained it properly, changing the oil whenever the "message center" told me it was time to do so and have always used synthetic oil. I have not yet started to pursue what if anything Chevy will do for me.

    Is there anybody out there who has developed this problem also, and if so what was your experience like?

    Inquiring minds want to know!


    Paul V.
  • I am about to buy a 03 Tahoe. I would really appreciate it if someone could give me an idea of what a good price would be for me to shoot for. (2003 4x4LT or LS Doesn't matter ) Thanks:)
  • tom213tom213 Posts: 49
    With the 2003's only out about 3 weeks now, it's hard to tell what kind of deal a dealer will make for you. I bought a 2002 a little over a week ago that was one of the last off the line (some papers I found under a seat showed a 7/23 build date) using the 0% financing and here's what I got: MSRP $41,588 (LT with 4WD, 3rd seat, trailer package, etc); dealer went down to $37,299 before deducting my trade-in. Next they gave me $16,000 for my 2001 Mazda Tribute LX/4WD w/22,000 miles, which brought it down to $22,299. Retail for a used Tribute is around $18,000, if they're lucky. There's a lot of competition here in Oklahoma City, so the deals may be better here than where there is not much competition. Good luck!!
  • Has anyone else experienced a "rattling" type noise behind the AC or radio? It comes and goes on my Yukon and does not seem to be related to anything. I took it into the dealer this weekend and they mentioned that a number of other people have complained of this but they do not know the problem.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    It is probably the radio cooling fan. Next time it happens turn the radio off. If the noise goes away that's the problem. Tell the dealer what you did, and what happened. They should change out the radio to get rid of the problem.
  • I am from Oklahoma also. Stillwater to be precise.
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    The condition on a "buy-back" vary state by state according to your state's lemon laws. A lemon law case is different from manufacturer sponsored arbitration, where the manufacturer has most of the control. Check with your state attorney general's office to get specifics of you lemon law.
  • jeff331jeff331 Posts: 21
    Just as a data point, I've had my 2001 Z71 Tahoe for about 15 months, it has about 15,000 miles, and I've never
    added a drop of oil between oil changes. I've notice it drop maybe 1/4 of a quart between changes.
  • I was just wondering if anyone else could tell me what they paid for their new 02 or 03 Tahoes. It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks:)
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    I pretty much paid invoice in a roundabout way. Plus took the 0%.
  • donahuesdonahues Posts: 36
    I don't have a wiring diagram and am wondering if it is difficult to rewire the center console accessory power adaptor. Currently the power remains constant to the unit even when the ignition is in the off position. My radar detector drains the battery. Is it possible to rewire this center console accessory power adaptor to carry power only when the vehicle ignition is on rather than have constant hot?
  • donahuesdonahues Posts: 36
    paid a couple hundred over invoice for a Denali and took the 0%. They even financed my TTL at 0%. Find a dealer with a lot of the model you are looking for. My dealer only had a couple of Denali's but at least a dozen Yukons. The sales manager told me he would really wheel-and-deal to get the Yukons off the lot.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    Use a test light to find a circuit that is on when the key is on only. Cut the power wire to the lighter and hook up this wire instead. They make an add a circuit device that can be used to tap directly at the fuse panel if you want to use it.
  • I'm hearing a high-pitched rattle- actually, a cross between a rattle and a squeak somewhere in the engine area when I drive along on slightly rough neighborhood streets. I've heard this same sound on other GM pickups in recent years. Any idea how I might fix the problem? I know that the description is extremely poor, but I'm hoping for help anyway.
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    It was coming from the left (small) compartment of the glove box where I keep a couple small hand tools take a look, maybe you'll get lucky too.
  • I have had my 97 tahoe.. for 20 months and have logged all most 23,000 miles and have not added a drop.. I check it often.. but have never needed a drop... My guess some dip stick tech forgot to add the oil after he got back from break...
    It's the dealers fault...
  • I just put new brakes on my 97 LT w/ 61,000 miles .. I heard from someone at work that I need to take it to the dealer and have them reset the computer .. to let it know that the brakes are new?? Is this a lot of fluff or truth....
    Also when I go around a corner or turn at a stop.. I hear is little rattle as I turn.. Alignment shop can't find it??? what might it be ??
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    No you don't have to have the computer reset. If you have 4 wheel drive the rattle might be the CV shafts for the front drive wheels. It could also be the intermediate shaft on the steering column.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    Had a driver's door rattle and window buzz. Turned out to be a broken window regulator mount which caused the door rattle and a mis-aligned window which caused the window to buzz. While I would have preferred no problem, I was happy it took one visit and 4 hours to get a fix. The window problem aside, my Tahoe remains quiet.
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    my milage seems to be going down with each new tank. I've owned the car since February and kept records with each fill-up. I started out getting right at 15 (all numbers are city driving). It moved into the 14's by and by and now at my last visit to the gas station I got slightly under 13mpg. I've assumed it's the difference between no AC driving and all AC driving. I know it's a mind game. I'm driving a 2 ton vehicle. Nevertheless, I keep hearing how the mpg will get better as the engine breaks in. LOL.....I'm old enough to remember when 13mpg was a respectable number highway milage for a great big American car. Any thoughts?
  • fortopfortop Posts: 239
    My experience is that A/C on all the time takes about 2 mpg. away from you. So, if you were getting 15 mpg and now get 13 mpg, I would attribute that drop to A/C. I don't use A/C on the way to work in the morning - I just roll the windows down - low tech, but effective cooling at 5:30 - 6:00 am in the morning even in the AZ desert at 70-80 dry degrees. I usually don't use A/C on the way home, since I only drive about 15- 20 minutes and roll the back windows down. If I start to perspire - I roll up the windows and turn on the A/C (stuck in traffic will do it).
    Accelerating quickly to merge into traffic several times will take .5 to 1 mpg away from me on a tankful. Actually driving the speed limit (using cruise set at the speed limit even in town), accelerating slowly from stops, anticipating light changes ahead and coasting(rather than speeding) to the next stop light is the real gas saving driving method - but few people have the patience to drive this way. Identical vehicles can have different gas mileage, due to the engine/drive train variability
    on the production line. 13 mpg/15 mpg = 13.3% less mileage X about 24 gallons on a fillup = 3.2 gallons X about $1.35 per gallon = about $4.32 per fillup penalty for your current driving style.
    The best I got on my Yukon 5.3/3.73 2WD was about 17.5 city - driving grandma style as described above, but your mental health may be worth $4.32 per fillup. Unless you need the 10 extra horsepower and extra torque for towing, I would recommend the 4.8/3.42 on your next purchase.
  • xyz71xyz71 Posts: 179
    I record the miles and engine hours at each fill up - I can see a correlation between average MPH and MPG.

    If the average speed is 25-26 MPH then I get a little over 15 MPG, when average speed drops down to 20 the MPG drops to about 13 MPG, lowest I can recall is a tank with Average speed of 15 MPH this took my MPG down to 10 MPG. The best was a pure highway tank - average speed over 60 MPH - MPG just over 19.
  • ....but it's not the white LT I originally went to purchase...instead, the dealer got fresh off the truck a green and a black '03 Z-71..I couldn't believe it! I had the LT deal worked at invoice with a $1,000 rebate and 5.9% financing. The Z71 cost me the same money but had a sunroof that the LT didn't have but didn't have the third row option or XM radio. I got it for $500 over invoice and 6.5% for a full 72 months. Overall, the '03 Z-71's have most of the LT features including the same heated seats but the styling is much improved if you like the stiffer suspension and the larger wheels. Also, I'm going with the Kenwood 911DVD system with Sirius satellite instead of XM - do your own reseach and I think you will lean slightly towards Sirius...a bit more money but no advertising. When I see the Z-71 next to a standard Tahoe, for me, I substantially made the right choice. And at resell time, I should get the $500 back and more. ;-)

    I highly recommend the '03 over the '02...a lot of small improvements but when you add them up, it's a big difference.
  • Maybe it's the architecture of the Tahoe but I'm not tempted to drive quickly. However, I do find my route to work (5 miles) requires I kick the gas to get up to speed when pulling onto this crazy 6 lane street where the limit is 45 and everyone seems to be going 55.
    Somewhere I read AC used in summer is somewhat offset because the summer blends for fuel are more efficient. For most of the summer I've been getting just under 14 which would be more like a 1mpg AC penalty. My to-date average fuel use since February is 14.62mpg counting two 600 road trips. I have a little over 7k miles on the odometer.
    As I said it's mostly a mind game. My dad taught me in the 60's to measure a car by the power and the milage. He had a 68 El Camino with the 457 4barrel (I think). That thing would flat move but he did well to get 8-9mpg. So what am I bitching He didn't get 14mpg on the road.
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