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Chevy Tahoe

This topic is a continuation of Topic 3260....

2000 Yukons/Tahoes - Any Details - XII. Please
continue these discussions here. Thanks!

Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host


  • Can someone take a picture of the exact location of the rear a/c drain and either post it or send it to me. I have looked for it and can't seem to find it on my Yukon. I am worried that it is plugged up because I never see any drain water on the floor for that system but always see it for the front system.

  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    Tried before to find something on how to replace welded door hinges but failed. While trying to find a picture of rear A.C. Drain hose for CW I came across Page 8-1508 = Collision Repair. It details a step by step procedure to remove and replace the old welded hinges.
    If someone still needs this procedure I`ll post a summary of the step by step.
    Please advise.
  • don434don434 Posts: 43
    There are about 15 pages of assembly/disassembly instructions on the rear A.C. and Heater Assembly. No where did it tell me to do anything with a drain hose or drain connection. The drawings do show a short item that protrudes thru the floor between the two heater hoses.
    If you slide under the rear bumper area you will notice four connections going thru the floor. The rear two are the air conditioning pipes. Inboard of these two and more forward are two heater hose connections. Directly between these two hoses the drawings show a short cone shaped nozzle. Sorry that no where do they specify this item but I think it must be the drain.

    If you find this item please DO NOT force a sharp object very far upward since the Evaporator coil is directly above this point - BE GENTLE.
    Please advise if you find that this is the drain so I can mark up my service manual and notify GM of my 24th manual correction.
    I think I now know why the 2001 Service Manual is so very late. It`s because they did such a poor job on the 2000 Service Manual. At least they will have a better product - I hope.
  • The part of the vinyl/rubber drain tube on our Tahoe that can be seen from underneath the vehicle is approximately 1 and 1-2 inches long. It is approximately 3/8 inch in diameter and round where the upper end goes through
    a cross-member support. On the lower end the item is shaped so that the sides are parallel to each other and there is only a very small opening. The item is to the inner side of the a/c tubes that go through the floor pan. Our vehicle does not have a
    rear heater core. Orville
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    thanks for the info on the door welds. I'll look it up tonight...I knew it was in there, just couldn't find it...or didn't look long enough...
  • My 2001 Suburban LS has just over 6000 miles and my rear driver side power window just quit. When it first happened both rear windows would not respond. The passenger side window starting working again right away, but the driver side won't budge. For those of you that have had yours fail and then fixed, have they been okay after the fix? Will this be a pain in the neck reoccuring problem or once it is fixed it is fine?

    Second topic: What does everone think of the Pennzoil Multigrade oil with Purebase. The brochure talks about many of the pluses that I have heard others on this conference talk about when recommending Mobil 1. Since my Chevy dealer is using Pennzoil do you think they would us Mobil 1 if I requested it or will they give me some bs about it voiding warranty? Thanks....
  • Cliff, an interesting poll to do or mayby some of out participents could include in their posts is their average milage by dividing the run hours available at the odometer site into there vehicle milage. Mine works out to 39.3 MPH Mike
  • Bill, both my rears have failed. It takes a while for the dealer to get them. While waiting for my first one to come in the second one failed. I have read other posts where the replaced ones are failing too. I intend to wait until they re-engineer these things So i don't make unessesary trips and wear and tear on the door panels. Im sure someone on this site will post when new part numbers on these motors come out. An other GM wonder. Mike
  • I just rotated my Wilderness LE's for the second time tonight with 19,100 miles on them. Very little wear showing and its even wear. Im impressed at the brake wear(or lack of). The front pads don't appear to have any reduced thickness. The backs are a little thiner. This is interesting because the backs will usually last longer. These trucks must be engineered to have the rears do more braking as the rears are actually bigger than the fronts. All the cars ive had, the reverse has been true. Extrapolating from what i see at this milage i think i can get mayby 60 to 75 thousand out of the rears and 100 thousand out of the fronts. I am easy on brake though. Mike
  • Your average miglage is 31.7 MPH, you must be sitting at more red light than me. Mike
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Arnold Palmer recommends it.....LOL!!
  • Thanks for the feedback regarding your video system.
  • They a certainly there for decorative purposes. On a clear evening press the fog light button while sitting in the truck. You won't notice the sightest bit of difference in illumination.


  • They do add a little extra light, but definity not as much light as one would expect if they were supposed to be 'driving' lights. I find they give extra light to the sides and give a wider field of view.

  • selmanselman Posts: 17
    My TransAm(4 wheel disc) wears the rear brakes faster than the fronts as well.
    The rear pads are a little less thick than the fronts when new, but I would think the braking system puts more emphasis on the rear brakes for what ever reason. May have something to do with the ABS.
    Either way, I thought it was kind of strange the first time I went to do a brake job. I assumed it was the fronts that were starting to squeel but it was the rear set.
    To date, replace rear set twice front set once.
  • selmanselman Posts: 17
    Had both rear window motors replaced not too long ago. No problems YET with the new ones. The new motors were the same part number as the original so I would imagine it's just a matter of time.
  • On one foggy morning I put on the famous fog lights, knowing it was not helping me but maybe with 4 lights facing forward someone else could see me better.

    When I got home from the 20 minute trip, I only had 3 lights facing forward, one of the cheap fog light bulbs exploded.

    dealer gave me a new bulb under warranty, but they are just a novelity that I think I will avoid using.
  • After waiting through a very long order process (ordered in July), I finally took home my Pewter 4wd ISD Yukon. So far I love it. It is cool to see over even other SUVs on the road. It rides nice (for a truck) and is very comfortable. Thx for all the tips!
  • Has anyone updated their onboard computer for the transmission clunk and if so, has there been any improvement?

  • I just returned from a trip to Florida with my 2000 Suburban, 4 X 4, 5.3 L, 4.10 rear with a 6630 lb (dry weight) trailer in tow. With trailer and vehicle loaded, I am sure I was still under the 8800 lb rated towing capacity of the vehicle. I checked the oil before the 1100 mile trip from PA to FL, and it was full. When I arrived in FL, 1100 miles later, it took two quarts of oil to bring the level to full on the dipstick. This was after driving all the way in tow/haul mode in 3rd gear, 60-70 mph, with engine speeds from 2900-3200 rpm.

    On the way home, I consumed slightly more than 1 quart, but limited my cruising speed to 65 mph (2900 rpm). I averaged a little over 10 mpg for the trip down and up I-95.

    Prior to the trip, I was watching the oil level and can extrapolate a consumption of about 1 quart per 3000-4000 non-towing miles, which I thought was acceptable.

    My Suburban has 10,200 miles on it now. I was shocked that I consumed 3 quarts of oil in 2200 miles of towing. However, the vehicle ran fine throughout the trip.

    Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I expect oil consumption to increase dramatically under heavy towing conditions? In any case, it is hard for me to believe that this oil consumption is normal. I assume (hope) that oil consumption will return to the previously observed non-towing rate of 1 quart per 3000-4000 miles. Is this even normal for an almost new vehicle?

    Any comments would be appreciated.

  • For the third time in 9 mos my 00Yukons radio has had to be reset due to SEC message. Any body deal with service dept on this issue? Intermittents can be a bear to deal with. Just a nuisance.
  • I had my 3/4 in for cluncking while towing after it got hot. 200 degrees. They reprogramed and recalibrated. Now shifts hard between 3rd and 4th but seems to be getting better. I think it is re-learing itself. Been 4 days. I havnt towed again yet. Dont have the ice breaker on my boat.
  • selmanselman Posts: 17
    I was told by the service department that some oil consumption problems in the 5.3L motors were due to bad PCV valves. Seemed that the problem was pretty pronounced, over a quart per thousand miles without towing a load. Don't know if this will help but thought I'd pass it on.
  • Had both of mine done about 2 months ago, still ok. Mine were also replaced with the same part #'s so I won't hold my breath.

    Cliff, the rear AC drain is next to the AC lines going into the rear evap, Its a short black hose.
  • Has anyone had experience with the MPC hood protector? After getting my first dime size ding and paint chip on the very front of my hood, I realize I do need one of these things. I really don't care for the way they look, but this MPC protector that I found at is one of the better looking ones. I know I have read many posts about some vibration, wiper issues after installing a hood protector . . . Thanks.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    had my silverados tranny updated and it shifts much nicer now.

    Also how much are dealerships charging you guys to do an update on tire size. They want to charge me $72 to go from a 265 to a 285. Kinda pricey u think?

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    not too many options on the reprogramming unless you buy a tech2 unit for $3000.
  • ledled Posts: 4
    My Suburban has 20K and the rear windows failed some time ago. I had them replaced. About a month later they failed again. They were replaced about three months ago and have been perfect ever since. I believe the part (Window motor) was redesigned and now the problem has been solved.
  • 1) SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT went on. I heard some ticking sound under the hood on the left side looking at the engine. It also vibrates unevenly. I can only get in to the dealer on Friday.

    2) TRANSMISSION SHIFTING is getting worse again, mainly between 1st & 2nd gear, downshifting and upshifting. I'm NOT impressed with GM's trannies at all. It catches and "double-bumps" if that makes sense.

    3) FRONT END STEERING/SUSPENSION still pops when turning, although not as bad as before and not as frequent when they tightened all the cross members.

    4) FOG LIGHT/REAR WIPERS conflict like CW pointed out. If they can fix this, I'll get it done.

    5) SAFETY RECALL arrived the other day for missing rear wheelhouse plugs. I guess some people have been getting gassed from the exhaust somehow.

    6) INTERIOR DRIVER'S SEAT has been crunching/popping when I lean back in it or accelerate. They were going to check this from last time, but they wanted to wait until I came back the next time to get the water leak problem solved. This started ever since the other dealer "fixed" the driver's side side-impact airbag sensor.

    7) LIFTGATE WATER LEAK is still pending. I'm waiting for them to get the back-ordered weather-stripping in.

    8) COMPUTER UPDATES...have them check once again.

    So...this should be fun! ;) We'll see what happens. Let's visit number 4! Yippie!

  • Well, I made the plunge. I just got my Hypertech Power Programmer III and PowerStat160 via UPS. I got both for $331 with shipping and no tax on E-BAY! Not bad since they both usually cost anywhere from $350-$400 together new. Some guy close to me here in CA was selling his 2000 GMC Sierra for something with better fuel economy since he got a new job. The PowerStat was never installed, and the Hypertech was used only once. The only downside is that the darn thing wont install because I got computer updates already...I think. I have to call Hypertech up and arrange a free reprogramming of the unit to take into consideration GM's alterations.

    Anybody get a Hypertech and install it yet? You like it? Notice any improvement? If you have, could you confirm that the part #'s are 30003 for the 5.3L unit and 1014 for the PowerStat?
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