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Dodge Ram Idle and Stalling Problems



  • rick3177rick3177 Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    Have any of you guys tried to replace your EGR value? I have a 2005 with the hemi and i had the same problem. My wifes uncle is a real machanic and said to try and replace the EGR value and the problem went away.
  • vdawg2vdawg2 Posts: 1
    My 2004 dodge ram keeps stalling when it is at idle. It only stalls when i go of the throttle to brake and not every thime @%#^# WTF. Any info about this would be great.
  • I have a 2000 dodge ram 2500 that recently begin stalling but it will restart. I took it to mechanic and according to the readings on the computer the problem lies between ecm and crank sensor, but was advised to try sensor. The crank sensor was put on however it started stalling again. Anyone have any ideas of what can be the problem.
  • i had the same problem with my 04 dodge ram 1500. i changed the EGR valve and that helped with the stalling. The part was $75 and real easy to change. i hope this helps.
  • I have a 01 Ram 1500 5.9 and it will stall when I go to slow down and stop,It does it rarely in the day time,but here lately at night when I would leave work and get going down the road as soon as i slow down at a red light it will shut off or start to die and I have no clue what the problem is,any ideas?
  • Start with the simple stuff. With my 98 Ram the stalling turned out to be a matter of removing the throttle body and giving it a thorough cleaning. There are some sensors on the throttle body as well. If cleaning doesnt solve your issue, you can try replacing the Idle Air Control on the throttle body (if your model year has one), which is less than 30 bucks. After doing those 2 things the stalling stopped for me.

    Read thru this forum and the other Dodge and Ram online forums to get more helpful info. on this specific issue.

  • I changed the transmission in my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. The truck starts fine, but will only run at 2000's RPM and only then if I hold the gas pedal down. If it drops below 2000 RPM, it shuts off and won't start back for 30 minutes or more. I've replace the fuel pump and the front oxygen sensor. Any clues...
  • Idk if the cummins has this but my 360 had it go out. Try the (iac valve or idle air control valve. It should be on ur throtthe body
  • i have a 2004 Ram 1500 with the Hemi too and the rpm's jump up and down then stalls. this problem has been going on since the truck had 4300 miles on it. the dealership couldnt find any problems with the codes on the computer. it usually happens when pulling into a parking space, the truck idles rough then stalls. is this the same problem you had and did replacing the EGR valve work? the guy who had the truck before me turned it back into the dealer for the same problem and was considered a "buy back" because they couldnt located the problem.
  • I replaced the throttle body also, running great for 2 years now. Stall quite often before I replaced it.
  • Alot of the dodge rams dont have an EGR Valve!!
  • hold the gas pedel to the floor and crank it it should fire. have the same probem with my truck intermitant no start but if i do that it will fire and not do it again for a month or so. havent figured out the fix yet thinking failing tps but not sure
  • ply32ply32 Posts: 3
    Found out it was the main injection pump-

  • So I notice alot of people on this post are having problems with stalling and staggering or idle problems. Well recently my Dodge ram 3500 began to stagger while driving at about 40-50mph, but when going faster it stops. Then it started cutting out every 10 minutes while driving till it just wouldn't start. Code showed P0148. I Changed my lift pump (fuel transfer pump) and the truck began to drive again. Its been about a week and now the staggering is back and a little worse and i'm showing codes P0148 and now a new one P0628. Any ideas on what to do or how to fix this? the staggering seems to be getting worse.
  • ply32ply32 Posts: 3
    I had to put new injection pump. As for the codes we also had PO628 and was told the problem existed between the EGR and module-We reset the code and then put on new injection pump and its works fine now-Be careful where you buy injector pump because all are not the same.
  • bgm29bgm29 Posts: 1
    i work for a full service garage and am the fleet mechanic. We have a dozen or so of 2007-2008 dodge ram 1500 with the 4.7L and 5.7L One of the trucks came in this week with a stalling and bucking problem. It threw the codes P0655, P0688, P2112. These are ASD control circuit codes and accelerator position sensor 1 codes. This is a huge issue for these damn trucks and there is not definitive answer from the dealer or Chrysler. I took the Totally integrated power module which is the under hood fuse box which all the relays and what not are built in via a large circuit board. this is where the connections are for this issue of the ASD control circuits and modules are along with the PCM,.... But there a 4 or 5 tourqe screws you can remove and then separate the casing and you can view the pins and circuitry is. I found a hand full of very corroded pins and connectors and evidence of a moisture issue which is not surprising due to its location on the truck. It is prone to collection all of the rain and salt and crap from the roads and it is a very poor design, but this was 2/3rds of the issue and i also looked over the pcm connections and found two wires that were chaffed and bare in a spot that were touching causing spikes setting these codes which is in turn stalling and shuddering the engine. the wires are so small and are easy to transfer current if the conditions are right which will spike voltage and set codes INTERMITANTLY !!!!!!!!!! which is the worst of all to diagnose. hope this helps out. let me know if you have anything to add.
  • I have a 2006 ram with the 4.7 and was having the same issues with rough idle and stalling at times. I replaced the tp sensor and map sensor and cleaned the iac valve and truck runs perfect now. I hope this helps someone with similar issues.
  • I appreciate the info but I have a '08 6.7 3500 Dodge Ram. What it is doing sometimes go dead immediately or when I hit a rough spot or bump. I have to try to crank it twice before it start. Then as I start driving about 1/3 of a mile go dead again, I knockout of gear, crank back up immediately. Sometimes I have to repeat it several time it going dead, crank up, go dead before it actually stay crank. Also it will go a week or so without cutting off and run as though nothing is wrong with it. Code did not call for a crank sensor but I changed it anyway. If you can call me I would appreciate it at 601-497-2343 or 800-896-9909 ASAP.
  • I have an 04 dodge ram 4.7L 1500 SLT quad cab with approx 180,000 miles on it. We have had our truck looked at by a trusted mechanic that has always done us right in the past and he is unable to find the issue that I am hoping someone else might have come across and can help me out with. He has already cleaned the TP sensor, throttle body taken apart cleaned, he has probed the TP Sensor and even ran a test to check the feedback from the computer ( Im pretty sure thats what he told me today) My engine is increasing in the amount of RPMs put out (which causes the truck to somewhat buck or jerk when in motion) It happens when at at idle as well. Its been a while since it has stalled out, but that has happened on occasion. It tends to rev more severely when its damp or cold out. Its almost like someone steps on the gas and then lets up is the best way to describe the action it does and the sound of the motor. As of just tonight it was 66 out; we were driving down the road and it started to just increase in rpms by like 400-500. We have gotten to where we dont pay it much attn since we were told that we would have to deal with it til it gets worse since no codes are being found as to why its doing it. Though after a few mins more it started to really jump in RPMs like 1000 or 1500. We were running 60-65 and the truck stayed at like 2000 RPMs and the highest it would hit was 4000( only like 2 times). At times we we have been able to turn it off and reset it so to speak but this time restarting the engine didnt help at all. Any one have any ideas as to what it might be cause the issue since its not picking up or giving off codes so it is leaving everyone a lil clueless and frustrated on our end
  • my 95 ram 5.7 has 357,000 miles on it. it has a problem stalling occasionally when the motor is hot, not all the time. it will turn over but not fire. once it cools down all the way it will start like it was new.
    it will run on either, so it has spark. i have replaced the fuel pump as well. it just won't put fuel in the cylinders.
    any help?
    yes, it is the original engine and trans. with 357,000 miles! the only work on the motor is 2 water pumps.
  • Yea ive got a 04 4x4 hemi and this as only happen to me twice but the first i just got fuel and went 3 three miles and went to put it in park and the rpms just dropped to about 200 to 300 so i put my foot in and held it wide open and it came out of it. The next time i did not get fuel just went to start it and it would not start. I tried twice with just the key and nothing so i held the pedal down and cranked it over and it started then smelled flooded. that was about 2 months apart maybe at the most but it has not done it since. All else its a good truck beside the rust in the wheel wells and the blue smoke on start up sometimes but it does not appear to burn oil. Any ideas on were to start or look for the idle issue.
  • gpais1gpais1 Posts: 1
    i see your post was in feb ,but hoping you still use sight have 98 with the very same problem checked pump is good 45 lbs pressure good spark clled tow truck when i got home took off rollback it started wonder did you ever guess what it was thank you for your time
  • ghuffordghufford Posts: 1
    my truck did same thing in hot weather had to wait for computer module to cool down, at first i replaced voltage reg, dist. cap, rotor, crank sensor, alternator, etc etc, finaly i bought a rebuilt computer module from orilleys for 300 dollars which included the core of the old one, they programmed it and all for my truck for that price and no problems since
  • bcliffordbclifford Posts: 2
    I have the exact same vehicle with only 80,000 miles on it and it is doing the same thing. So far Chrysler has done all of the above to the tune of $800 dollars CND and they still have not fix the problem. It is going back in today (July 4, 2012). There is also and update for your engine computer that they put in and for the extra $150 dollars, this did not help either. did you eventually find what the problem?
  • robertg3robertg3 Posts: 3
    I changed the whole fuse box mount on the left hand size under the hood and was told to not have more than one or two keys on key chain because I had a bunch of keys on my key chain. It work and hadn't had the problem since.
  • rawramrawram Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 dodge ram my truck sits for months at a time because of my job. Recently we got alot of rain so I decided to drive it.About an hr in the no bus light come on and my gauges die. I parked it and drove it later the light shut off. Now its idling funny like its going to die. My odometer moves while in park. Also if i turn my key back towards me just a little it idles correct but my ac and radio won't work. and suggestions?
  • hiflier68hiflier68 Posts: 1
    Was the problem ever solved.. I am having the same issues with my 98 1500 Ram
  • bcliffordbclifford Posts: 2
    After and extensive search on the internet, I determined it was a "Throttle Position Sensor" or TPS. It cost $29 dollars and I installed it myself. Bingo!!!!! Problem solved. Go to utube and watch the following video. :)
  • jeff808jeff808 Posts: 1
    edited August 2012
    I bought a 06 Ram quad cab Hemi 4x4 (38,000 miles) with the same problems. It would stall when coming to a stop, stopping on an uphill grade, and it would do mini neutral drops while accelerating from a stop during right turns. It also had a delayed engagement when placing my trans into drive. I had my tranny serviced at my normal shop (flush and filter change, 450 bucks). No improvement. I then changed my plugs and EGR valve, still no improvement. I took it to a transmission specialty shop and they told me that it was low almost 4 quarts. They informed me that the fluid needs to be checked in neutral, not in park like how I checked it. I know this sounds too simple but all my engine and transmission problems were solved, just like that. If you haven't already fixed your problems, I hope this helps. By the way, my mileage still sucks (about 10-11 mpg w/35"s), but I'm happy now.
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