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Isuzu Rodeo



  • Keep cats away from that antifreeze. Even a drop can be fatal. That's why I have a shop flush my cooling system. It's less messy and ensures that all the old coolant gets out.
  • i just purchased a 2001 rodeo v6 2wd (?) and i have this strange problem. when starting from a dead stop ( red light ) if i give it any kind of gas to really get going the back tires spin as if the pavement was wet (and it isn't) and then the engine and tires seem to grab and i mean grab. it's... 1. accelerate, 2.spin, 3.engine jerk, 4.grab and then 5.go, and then all is well. i am not talking of trying to do 0-60 in 5 sec. i just have an area here where 2 lanes go to 1 lane and i have to accelerate to get in front of the pack and this is what happens to me. it is very unnerving. i have tried it a few times now to see if it always happens and yes it does from a complete stop. any suggestions?
  • cptsessocptsesso Posts: 116
    My first thought would be tires. Even if they are still showing good treads, they may be the problem.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Have you ever used any fuel line cleaners? This could be the problem. When I start having problems accelerating from the stop (jerking, not even RPMs, etc) I put in a bottle of BG40 (so similar) into the gas tank and it seems to be fixing the problem for at least 6 month. The bottle of really good cleaner will cost you no more than $20 (you can get pretty decent one for about $10) and it really makes a difference.
  • cptsessocptsesso Posts: 116
    If you read his post, he states his rear wheels break traction and spin on heavy, dead stop accelerations.

    He does not have any engine problems, just traction problems, which makes me think he has poor rear tires.
  • your right, you would think of the tires at 1st but the tread is in very good cond. the spinning is similar of spinning tires in neutral and throwing it into 1st gear. it will only grad the gear when i let up and it seems to catch up and grab. it really has excellent acceleration after this. (it is an automatic). i would not think of the tires as being the problem. but maybe i am wrong.
  • r0de099r0de099 Posts: 35
    What is the symptoms if you have a starter problem?
  • karman1karman1 Posts: 25
    Hello guys, I have a question for you.
    I have a 98 2WD V6 Rodeo, can anyone recommend any good shocks? I have almost 109k on it and I think I'm still riding on OEM's. If you have any recommendations that would be great.
  • I have a Isuzu Rodeo, though not reliable as a Honda or Toyota. With the currentt incentives in place and that the company i not going to be in business for not long, is it prudent to buy a Rodeo for around 16K? If it runs for 8 years, I am OK with the purchase..

    What do you all think of buying a ROdeo for 17 K vs a Camry for 18 K?
  • atlgaxtatlgaxt Posts: 500
    How can you be cross shopping these two vehicles? They are completely different. If a car will take care of your needs, do not get an SUV. They roll over, do not ride as well, and burn more gas. The SUV is safer argument is bogus.

    If you really need an SUV, a car is not an option. Needing an SUV means you tow or have a need to go off road, which are two things a car will not do. If you are only concerned with cargo capability, get a wagon or a crossover. The bottom line is that if you are asking this question, you really do not need an SUV, so get a Camry, or an Accord, Mazda 6, or some other car.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    OME - Old Man is where you can research. or is were you can order.

    I got a set for my Trooper and love them.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    I got my loaded Trooper back in 2002 because it was cheap. It replaced our Corolla. My other options were Camry or Accord V6s and they would have been more expensive. They are all vehicles that will get you from A to B and I happen to like to sit up high to see over the vans and Explorers and have lots of cargo space for weekends at Costco or at the beach. I don't tow or go off-road, our roads are straight and even, and we all dream of driving earth-shattering 75MPH while sitting in traffic. That's the reality.

    I'd get the Rodeo for 16K. Any other full-size wagon or crossover would be in a different (much higher) price category. You get the decent 3.2 V6 engine, auto, ABS, tires and suspension that will outlast those on any regular car. Plus you can load it up to the roof if you need to.

    Some of us are flexible about what we drive and it mostly comes down to price. I'm actually eyeing a red Camry SE-V6 to replace my old compact... pickup truck. I also am tempted by a loaded Mazda6 wagon for $21K but it's a Ford though it looks nice... If GM sends me that additional $2,000 rebate like they did last December then I might even get the Aztec - that's how flexible I am :-)
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I somewhat agree with the posters opinions, however some manufacturers don't always put the best/longest life shocks in a car, so while may perfect for a cars suspension, may just be bad overall. Also, just adding "performance" shocks isn't perfect either. OME specifically designs its shocks for each vehicle and spring rates, etc. Which in my opinion makes them much better than say Rancho's or other "upgrades". I did the OME shocks alone and not springs in my Trooper and got much improved performance over stock. Onroad was good, offroad performance was great.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    OMEs are great. I did the Rancho thing on my Trooper for the first go around, changed over to the OMEs on my 2nd shot. Much better IMHO.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Cross shopping is fine with me.

    Depends on how long you want to keep it. In the long run the Camary is gonna cost more to keep up than a 2wd Rodeo due to the fact that it's not going to take abuse nearly as well, which is fine for 50-100k but once you push past that 100K mark, the rodeo will withstand harsh roads.

    Just my take on it, long term the Rodeo will cost less and hold up better IMHO.

  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Have a question to everybody. About 6 month ago or so, I noticed that my Rodeo is making a terrible squeaking noise when I back up. It sounds just like when your brakes are worn to the metal and you slowly slow down before the traffic light. However, it ONLY happens when you back up and is especially bad when you turn the wheels ton the right or left at the same time.

    I know that my brakes are somewhat worn - it shakes when I brake at high speed - but they are silent when I brake. It's when I accelerate backwards is when that noise comes up.

    Somebody suggested that it could still be brakes since when I back up, the wheels turn in to different direction and if the pads are not worn evenly, they'd start squeaking. This doesn't make too much sense to me as the sound never comes up when I brake.

    I am planning to take it to the brake inspection in a week or so, but I'll need to replace the pads and machine the rotors soon anyways (61K+ miles on original brakes). However, this doesn't sound right.

    oh, also, at first, the sound would come when it was wet outside. Now, it is mostly noticeable when its dry and not very cold. Go figure...
  • It's your rear brakes. Have it checked out. It's a common problem on Isuzus. If brake pads need to be replaced, OEM pads are highly recommended.
  • kat6kat6 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Rodeo. The transmission light will come on and flash for several hundred miles then will stop for a while then start again. Had the codes read at autozone and got the P1870 Transmission Component slipping code. the tranny seems to be functioning fine. Anyone know anything about this problem.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Rear brakes??? That surprises me - usually front brakes are the ones to go first, not the rear ones. And I'm pretty easy on brakes too.

    I kind of thought of brakes (even though I wasn't blaming it on rears), as the sound is very similar to brakes sounds when they are worn. However, the sound never comes up when I brake. It is only there when I back up with the wheels turn and disappear when I slow down after backing up.

    I'll definitely have them checked, but I'm just curious about the physics of the problem.
  • If you do a search on any isuzu forum (4x4wire, planetisuzoo, etc), you'll find the "squeaking noise in reverse" problem reported. Some blame it on the design of the calipers that allow the pad to move around too much when the pads are worn. Others say that the pad is worn down to the wear tabs which strike the disk. Regardless, its always the rear brakes and replacing with OEM pads does the trick. Sometimes the problem arises when putting in non-oem pads, so go with the dealer pads.
  • Whenever transmission problems arise, you should have the transmission fluid flushed as a precaution. The Isuzu transmissions are very sensitive to voltage. So, make sure your battery and alternator are in perfect shape. Cheap rebuilt alternators from local parts stores have been known to trigger the transmission light on these vehicles. Also, check serpentine belt tension. If you have installed car stereo amps that draw lots of current, then remove it and see if this helps. You can try to reset the trans light by removing the negative battery cable for 20 minutes. If the transmission is working fine, I would not worry about it too much. When transmission registers 3 faults it will enter a 'limp mode' to protect itself. In this mode, the trans will stay in 3rd gear all the time. You can still drive it gingerly to a mechanic at that time.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Thank you,

    I'll get the brakes checked out. The problem is that none of the brake places will want to deal with OEM pads - they make most of their money on parts that they use. Dealers will charge about $250+ per axle. Is there anything special I need to know about changing rear brakes on Rodeo by myself? Last time I changed brakes by myself was on '89 Tercel, and they were drum brakes.

    Is there anything special I need to keep in mind as I'm dealing with ABS brakes?

    There are no good manuals for this car. The only manual I found covered Rodeos from '91 (I think) to 2004 and their sample vehicle was a '97 rodeo (I think 2WD).
  • I haven't had to do my rears yet, but it is harder than on most other cars. Fronts are not too bad, but the parking brake and general design may make it a troublesome job. I would call st charles isuzu and order the pads, then bring them to a mechanic and have him do it. I heard all 4 oem pads (front and rear) cost 100 bucks with free shipping from st charles. This forum won't allow posting of phone number for vendors so search stcharles auto on the web. They're in missouri.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    I'll call them up. I've called them before for parts and can look up their number. The pads from my local dealer will cost about $60 per axle. The problem is to find anybody who would use the parts that I bring to them. I'll try though. I'll try to take it to brake inspection this week.

    Just out of curiousity I called one of the local dealers here and they told me that the price to for a brake job will be about 2 hours of labor ($105/hour) for each axle + parts. Don't think I'll use them :-)
  • We have a 98 rodeo and just went through this.The dealer charges like 200.00 or so? Just for the part alone.We decided to go to the salvage yard and we purchased one for 106.00.We actually had to take the first one back because it didn't work the rear window.But my husband just took it with him and got one off of a 2003 total coming in and installed it right there and works perfect.Maybe a little bit of trouble but for the money we saved(approx 300 some odd dollars including labor + part) and ease of installing it, it was worth it to us.
  • I believe my engine is gone...I hear a ticking that gets louder with increase speed.

    Any suggestions on where I can get a used engine.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Very interesting experience that I wanted to share with everybody. I took my car to one of the Brakes Plus locations here in Denver and experienced the most straight on attempt to overcharge/overprice/underestimate I've ever seen.

    When I took it in, i complained that the steering wheel pulsates when brakes are applied at high speed and about that squeaking noise I've already mentioned in this forum. I also suggested the take an extra look at rear brakes for that noise. When they called back they said that the front rotors need to be turned (well, duh...) and, therefore, the pads need to be replaced for $159 + $50 rotors + $50 grease packs. They didn't find anything wrong with the rear brakes but he said that he didn't hear any sounds coming from it. I asked him if he got a chance to test drive it and he said no.

    Hmm... Getting frustrated, I asked him to put it back together and test drive it and let me know. After two hours, I called him myself and he said that he did hear the sound (he also said that he just didn't hear first time but did drive it. Hmm...) but didn't know where it was coming from. His guess was it might be coming from e-brake system, but they didn't check it out as they normally don't do it as part of the brake inspection as it's unlikely that it will go bad. When asked if it's possible that the drums or the pads in that system are worn, he said “Yes, but unlikely.” When asked if it may be not aligned, he told me the same thing, while still admitting that's the only possible place the sound might be coming from. He refused to check it as, as he claimed, they didn't have enough time and too many cars in line (they had my truck there for 4 hours at that time).

    When I picked it up and looked at the “suggestions” that were listed in the estimate I noticed they “suggested” I change the shocks and serpentine belt. The belt didn't surprise me too much (except the price tag on it was $115: $50 labor and $65 parts), but shocks did. When asked, he explained that shocks are fine, not leaking or anything but “they” recommend replacing them. I wondered who “they” and his answer was: “Dealers and other such places”. I don't remember seeing “replace shocks” in my maintenance schedule for $60K mi. In fact, i don't remember seeing it in ANY scheduled maintenance plan for any vehicle.

    So, basically, the results of my brake inspection are as follows: they didn't feel like messing too much with the brakes to check it out completely even though the possible problem area was determined.
    They found a $300 problem(front brakes) which the found sufficient to pay for their time.
    They tried to sell me unnecessary parts with the most ridiculous reason.
    AND the overshot dealers prices by a good portion on the belt. (dealer wants $30 for the belt and $50 labor).
  • whoa...slow down. A ticking sound can be hydraulic lifters which are known to get noisy in these vehicles. Try changing oil to synthetic Mobil 1 0w-30. Or, the ticking could be caused by the timing belt tensioner. You got a lot to look at before pricing out a new engine.
  • I hate to over generalize, but I've heard so many stories like yours that I generally stay away from these automotive chains, including midas and the like. I would get recommendations on a good mechanic and go that route. Go to your local library and check out 'consumer's checkbook'. They're like a localized consumer reports. They have ratings on local auto repair shops. Good place to start.
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