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Isuzu Rodeo



  • 1. The PCV valve sits on the valve cover. It has a rubber hose attached to it with a clamp. Remove the hose and pull the valve out of its seat. 5 minute job to replace.


    2. To relieve fuel pressure from the system, remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse panel in the engine compartment. Crank the engine over for 30 seconds. Also, remove the gas cap and negative battery cable (just in case).


    3. The factory manuals the isuzu mechanics use are the helm manuals. Sometimes you can find them on ebay. Or, go to the Helm website (
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Thanks for the info! I'll check Helm Website.


    I forgot to reply to the posts concerning bumpy rides on Rodeo. Yes, if you lower your tire pressure it will make the ride softer. However, your gas/mileage will suffer and the tires will wear off sooner. I know Isuzu recommends lower tire pressure than Discount Tires put in, but I'd rather have better gas/mileage, better handling and less wear on the tires. That's just my opinion though.


    I did try to lower the pressure when I was 4WDing on sand and I forgot to inflate the tires after that. I can't say I was too happy with the nandling I got.
  • I currently have a 2002 S 2WD Rodeo. It's so vastly underpowered for me, and I'm thinking about trading it in for a 2002 S V6 4WD. I'm wondering if I can still even find one, or if the difference in money is worth it.
  • I take it you're talking about going from the 4 cylinder S model to the V6 model. A vehicle of that weight being powered by a 4 cylinder 130hp engine has never made any sense to me. I'm sure you'll notice a big difference when you test drive the V6 with 205 HP. In my area, there are plenty for very reasonable prices. Test drive and see.
  • Looking for an SUV to pull a camper we'll be buying. I can buy a leftover 2WD with the new 3.5L for around $18K (plus/minus). I know the Rodeo is "old tech" compared to the new SUVs on the market...but I'm looking for the biggest bang for my buck in the new-car segment. Just worried the "negative" feedback in this forum may outweigh "positive" ownership experiences with the Rodeo.
  • atlgaxtatlgaxt Posts: 501
    I had a '99 Rodeo. It was a good and dependable vehicle. Since I drive a pickup, we figured we did not need two trucks so we switched my wife to a crossover (Subaru). If you are looking for a good, basic SUV, I would not hesitate to go for a leftover Rodeo. However, depending upon how it is equipped, I would think you might be able to do a little better than $18k at this point.
  • I need to know how much it cost for a power window motor? Can i install it myself or i need a mechanic to install it?
  • A power window regulator runs around 100 bucks on ebay. It's a do-it-yourself job if you have some basic mechanical ability. Often on these vehicles it is not the motor that dies but the various linkages and guides that fall out of position. Remove the door panel and check all the parts inside before putting out money for unneeded parts.
  • I have a 92 Rodeo that has 87,000 miles and the

    check engine light has been coming on intermittently, plus my gas mileage has dropped to 10 mpg. My mechanics have been unable to find a problem (with the computer sensor). Other than that it runs fine. Therefore, I am looking at a 2001 to replace it, unless someone knows a possible fix. Any suggestions, or is it time to replace?


  • Find a new mechanic. Check engine light problems are not difficult to diagnose or fix. It may be emissions-related resulting in the lower gas mileage. Getting it fixed will likely be less expensive then a new car, and who is to say the new one won't have a check engine light on at some point.
  • I did, found the problem, leak in the manifold gasket....$525.00 repair. So I guess I'm buying a new one. I'll miss my 92 Rodeo :(

    It's been a great truck. So long ole girl!
  • i have a prolem with my front axle the mechanic saw that the cv boots are ripped both of them.Can you change just the boots or you have to change the whole axle?
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    You should be able to replace just the boots. I haven't done it on the Rodeo, but I've done it on another car.


    There might be two different cv boots available: one that you can put on and glue together, and the one that you can pull on by disconnecting the axle from the wheel. Once again, I don't know what's available for Rodeo and the only experience I have as far as changing the cv boots was on '88 Chevy Nova.


    At that time (about 7 years ago) I was recommended not to get the "split" type cv boots as they don't live long.
  • I bought a repair CD off of Ebay for about $15 if I remember, for my '01.

    It is actually a Honda Passport ESM, Electronic Service Manual, copyright 2004 by American Honda Motor Company.

    It is a bunch of pdf files...I haven't looked at it much and still haven't found much of an index. But it is all there.

  • Hi folks,
    I'm just migrating over here...sold a 2002 Honda CR-V and bought a '01 Rodeo cuz I needed better off road clearance and capability, and more towing ability.

    First thing...the Isuzu takes a lot of pedal pressure to stop. It doesn't inspire confidence in braking ability. Should I look at aftermarket and/or high performance brake pads? It has 43K miles on it.

    Second thing...I just bought a set of factory fog lights. The kit contained two lights and brackets, a relay, two short wiring harnesses one for each side to connect the lights to existing wires behind the bumper...but no instructions at all? Does anyone know of a set of instructions? I'm hoping all I have to do is plug the relay into the under-hood fuse box, install the switch (hopefully the wiring harness is already there!), and install the lights. any ideas?

    Does anyone know if the fog lights work independently of the headlights? When I installed the factory fogs on the CRV, I had to do some changes to the wiring to let the fogs work independently from the headlights. Otherwise, they only worked when the low beams were on. I'm hoping to be able to use them independendtly so they can be used as daytime running lights sort of!

  • Hi, my 2000 2WD Rodeo start to leak some red/brownish fluid to the garage floor. I crawed underneath to check and it seems to leak from the small rectangular oil pan. This oil pan is located between the engine oil pan and the automatic transmission oil pan. Does anybody know what this one is? What kind of fluid, filter or gasket it used? Oh, by the way I am just past 60k mile and plan to have an independent to do the 60k maintenance rather than the dealer. The dealer is too faraway (Houston) and expensive. Do the transmisson oil pan need a gasket and filter when I change the fluid? Any suggestion for the 60 K maintenance? Thanks in advance.
  • The smaller oil pan is part of the transmission oil pan. The reddish brown fluid is transmission fluid. Since you have the leak, you might as well change the filter when they take off the trans. oil pan to replace the gasket. You can buy a transmission filter and gasket set at autozone or other auto parts stores.
  • i took my rodeo to the shop saturday to get my outer boots fix both of them the mecahnic look at it 15 mins. later came back told me that i need to replace the whole axle and it will cost me $575.00 but i told him to just change the boots coz i dont hear any clicking or noise coming from the axle and he said the botts are not gonna last.So it took the car out went to meineke and see what they say they told me the samething change the whole thing but they agree to change just the boots so i let them change the boots but it still cost me $311.00 Is it really that expensive even just to replace the boots?They said the labor take long.
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    Yes, there is a lot of involve. It is long, dirty,nasty job.There is an article on 4x4wire dot com if you want to know details. You would be glad you payed somebody to do it.
    Just change a boot actually add more work as outer joint is not separatable and they had to open/separate inner cv to get outer boot on.
  • I called the dealer about the oil leak and they said it is cover under the powertrain warranty. I brought it in last Saturday. It turn out to be some piston seal leaking and not the pan itself. It was repaired under the 10yrs/120k powertrain warranty and no charge for me. So I suggest anyone to try to utilize the Isuzu powertrain warranty first before spending one's own money.
  • elticoeltico Posts: 1
    I just got a Isuzu 99 4 cyl. 5 speed manual trans-mission. While I'm driving a light goes off and on at the instrument panel it shows "U/S" What's the meaning of it? I don't have a user's manual.
  • 97rodeo97rodeo Posts: 12
    I have a 97 rodeo with 205K.
    This occurance has happened once before, but seemed to fix itself. It happened again yesterday, dont know what it will do today.
    Heres what happens;
    Driving down the highway with the cruise control on, approach an incline (hill). Starting up the hill, the cruise works at keeping the same speed. Suddenly however the engine starts over revving, under revving and so on and naturally the tranny is trying to keep up with this. Not a good feeling. I take the cruise off and feather the gas pedal to smooth things out. Once I am back in town driving, from a stop, I accelerate and the same thing happens. The tach jumps up about 500 RPM and then back down again, over and over. My speed slowly increases, but can't stay constant on the pedal to accelerate.
    The first time this after happened, I after the fact changed the fuel filter, but it had already stopped doing this "thing".
    I haven't got a clue!
    I read through the forum until about page 58 and wasn't finding this occurance per se.
    My Rodeo has never had any major problems. It keeps on plugging away and I love it.
  • jbkennedyjbkennedy Posts: 70
    My wife's CEL comes on intermittently on her 2001 Rodeo with 44K. She says it will come on when she is accelerating I have checked all the the fluid levels and the gas cap. My nearest dealer is over 20 miles away.

    Any ideas?
  • r0de099r0de099 Posts: 35
    I just notice that i have a couple of small leaks
    under my car and it looks like anti freeze what do you guys think would that be?Maybe you guys can give an idea.THANX....
  • makayemakaye Posts: 81
    With an automatic transmission, a possible culprit is the torque converter or lock-up feature. If you do the same thing in 3rd gear instead of OD, does the hunting occur? When accelerating from a stop, if you manually run through the gears, does this happen? I would place my bets on the torque converter or the lock-up solenoid.
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    U/S - UP SHIFT.
    ECM think you should change your shifting habits. Disregard it.
  • iatechiatech Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my remote, it opens only the driver's side door lock, but will lock all locks. I tried using the key and it will only open the drivers side and not all the locks when I turn the key for the second time. The inside switch on the drivers door locks and opens all the locks. The passenger lock switch will lock all doors, but will not open any of the locks. Any ideas on whats wrong?

  • jbkennedyjbkennedy Posts: 70
    I think that you have to press the unlock button on your remote twice. Pressing it once just unlocks the driver's side only. Pressing the button a second time opens the remaining doors. This is how it is programmed on our 2001 Rodeo.

    Good Luck!
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    The lights will only come on when you have your regular lights on. They will go off when you turn on beam lights.

    Installation is pretty much fool proof. Put the brackets under the bumper and screw the lamp assembly to them. The pig tails will connect the lamps to the car wiring.

    To remove the switch plug on the dash board, you need to remove the two screws that hold the hood release and the one on the bottom right corner. Then, pull the weather strip out and remove the bottom pannel.

    I just finished the installation on my Rodeo and the memories are still fresh :-)
  • mdocodmdocod Posts: 1
    Bought my 1995 isuzu rodeo about 9 months ago (~6/04) with 144,500 miles. Condition looked nice and I had the chance to see the condition the owners traded into the dealer and drive it before it went through cleaning/inspection etc. The vehicle had nice 16" allow wheels and nearly brand-spankin new dunlop radial rover xt tires. This is the V6 model with manual tranny, nicely loaded. very few minor things wrong with this vehicle upon purchase.

    The dealer was asking $3900, plus $400 dealer fees, plus tax.

    I offered them $2700 out the door and they took it.

    Of those minor things wrong, 1 of them was an outer CV boot. I let this slide on word from a friend that I could buy a quickboot repair kit and take care of it myself.

    <<<I've read some posts about expensive boot replacements... to help those folks out with outer CV boot problems, get yourself a few bottles of brake cleaner, prop up on jack stands, remove wheel, rip off the old boot, clean all the old grease and dirt out of the CV with the break cleaner, install a "quickboot" repair kit, I found that Pepboys had some that for my rodeo. They are slitted and do not require the removal of the CV shaft to install. you can do this yourself in ~1hour for about $20-30>>>

    The week after I bought it, I drove it on a 3,000 mile road trip cross country to visit family, there and back, all things went very smoothly and I could not have been happier.

    Did some 4-wheeling with it this last summer, seems to handle itself offroad as well or better than many other stock SUVs. very happy there.

    Then, a little over 150k, the infamous valvetrain clicking began. This was very discouraging. Took it to a good mechanic I know, he wasn't suprised at all and I would soon learn that this is common for these enguines. My "good" mechanic said to keep changing the oil and I would be lucky to get another 10k out of it before it needs to be rebuilt.

    Well, I'm sure some of you out there have had a look at the rebuild and part costs for these enguines, not to mention how hard it is to get ahold of the parts for them to do any DIY enguine projects. The hydrolic lifter that is the culprit for the noise, is a little piece of metal, a shim about the size of a .45 bullet. From isuzu they cost about $20 each, that's $480 for a full set. pretty nasty. Isuzu has a somewhat poor enguine design with no roller anything in the valve train that is prone to these problems.

    I wasn't willing or able to have the enguine replaced or rebuilt so soon, So I've been on a search for oils, oils stabilizers, oil treatments, cleaners, etc etc. Trying different weights of oil, 5W-50, 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50, 15W-50, synthetics, high milage formulas, blends, STP, marvel mystery, rislone, MOA, etc etc.

    162,000 miles was my last change, (i'll be doing another one tomaro for my ~165,000 change). I started this set of oil off as usual with a 99% multipass efficiancy filter from fram, this time I tried 10W-40 Mobil high mileage synthetic blend. I should point out that each oil change since the tick has began, has been the onset of a noticably louder time in this little enguines life, seems that the detergents in the new oil clean away varnish that helps bolster up warn out parts. hence- newer oil is both helping and hendering the problem. The mobil brand was no better or worse it seemed. To further suggest that the cleaning action was actually hurting the senario- I tried a karoseen flush using a karoseen based flush. (for use at drain time), after using this, the clicking got much louder.

    I loose about 1 quart per 1500 miles since I bought the thing, this isn't suprising given the age of the enguine, it's bound to have some consumption. About 700 miles into my last oil change, (about 0.5quart low) I decided to try adding some oil treatment. This time it would be "Enguine-Restore,".. comes in a silver/black/blue can in different sizes for different sized enguines... (though I think the 8 cylinder size would be fine in the isuzu, since the oil capacity is nearly as much as many small-blocks) This stuff is a blueish milky looking substance that looks like it would never belong in your oil. However, the results were astonishing. The clicking was hardly noticable within 5 minuts of driving, and the very next morning, when those "cold-morning-CLICKS" are usually the worst on these enguines was completally silent. Sounded like this enguine was bought yesterday. If you are having this clicking problem, try enguine restore for awhile. I doubt it will make any enguine last forever, but It might just buy these old enguines another 20-40k before they actually need replacing. I should also note, that my oild consumption dropped slightly.

    I should point out, that towards the end of this change, the clicking has returned a bit, but is still significantly quieter than it has been for the last 12K or so. tomaro i'm going to use the larger size can combined with a heavier oil with less detergents. I'll try to post some results in another 3k.

    Try enguine restore before rebuild/replacing these things.
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