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Isuzu Rodeo
This topic is a continuation of Topic 2263....
Isuzu Rodeo - II. Please continue these
discussions here. Thanks!
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
Isuzu Rodeo - II. Please continue these
discussions here. Thanks!
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
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There already is a vast improvement in the ride. So if you're thinking about changing the shocks in your 2000 or 2001, the part numbers from a 98+ WILL fit.
David
I enjoyed the Bilstein for some time on my '99 Passport. It had excellent lean, bounce, and dive control (good for racing sports) but I didn't like the way it transmitted all the minor road irregularities (asphalt undulations and old concrete road bumps). They were a big turn off to me, and the wife complained on it of being uncomfortable especially on long drives. This is just not our taste for regular trips.
I am now more comfortable with Monroes. The monroes also gave better control on lean, dive, and bounce compared to the OEM shocks.
I have been trying to help a friend get as close to my deal as possible, but with little luck. There are very few 2000 Rodeos left, so the dealers are not willing to do much. The best deal we can find on a 2000 LS 2WD that lists at $26,700 in this part of the country is $19,999. However, my dealer in Arlington has a 2000 S Trooper that he will sell for $19,999, so my friend is considering that. In my opinion, a scratched 4WD Rodeo demo is not a deal at $25,500!
Doc
-mike
-mike
today i had bilstein corp ( Western Office:
8845 Rehco Road,San Diego, CA 92121
a nice engineer named lou) install bilstein shocks on my 2000 rodeo 2wd.
the good news is that the part numbers are going to be the same as the 1999 shocks.
i drove home to los angeles area from san diego and i was very pleased.
good luck to other owners and thank you to bilstein for using my vehicle to test the 2000 shocks.
-Michael
Regarding a 2001 Rodeo (automatic, pref pack #2)
Is ($235/month, 39 month lease, 1,000 miles/month
$1,500 total out of pocket with the $700 Gateway Comuter voucher)
Is there a better deal out there than anyone is aware of?
I got an outstanding deal in '97 which was $285/mo for the Rodeo S w/Performance package (auto, a/c, alumn wheels, LSD, 6 speaker stereo) with $2000 out of pocket for 36months. It had a $18,000 residual value and Isuzu wanted the "old" models off the showroom floor before they put out the '98 models.
So $235/mo seems like an outstanding deal, IMHO.
-mike
Do they improve cornering and emergency manouvering on highway, please? We don't do much of off-road
BTW: do they make Monroe Reflex shocks for a '99 Rodeo?
Thanks
I had washed my car in a cold evening(two days before) and kept it in the garage(unheated)... I'll go to work, but when starting it after hours it would start with a jolt when releasing the clutch(I've had it last winter as well)...
But, next morning, it got worse, it wouldn't move at all, even after releasing the clutch almost completely(this time I was afraid to release it completely, considering the high revs, some cluncks, the previous jolts and the fact that I couldn't move the car my hand either)...No hand brake engaged
I'll take it out of 4hi, put it in 4 No, then in 4 hi again, then in 2wd(After starting to two it. I've stopped the towing truck, re started the engine, just to make sure that the 4hi light went off)... But as the towing truck was turning out of my drive, we heard one loud CLANK and I was sure that my dealer would find the truck in perfect shape(which he did)
He even kept the truck outsideover night and re started it, no problems at 8 am next morning(but on milder weather)...
They say they've "checked everything"...:) Not reproducible...
It's not only that now I'm afraid to wash the truck when it's cold, but I'm afraid something might be damaged anyhow...
Even if we're careful not to put in 4hi when there are patches of dry asphalt, etc, etc
I also kind of thought that the clutch ride was too long(at least compared to my sedan), but then the dealer let me test drive a brand new 2000 and he drove my '99 and the clutches behaved in a very similar manner...
My '99 has only 22.000 am on it and it is a frustrating issue to have in the back on your mind... E.g. the next day I had to drive 200km one way and we got freezing rain and some snow on the way back and you are afraid that the truck might give up on you (OK it only manifested so far at start-up, but still)...
Any hints?
My dealer is 417 Saturn-Saab-Isuzu in Ottawa, Canada...
http://www.a-1shocks.com/maticplus/index.htm
These are your part numbers:
Front #32336
Rear #32337
Good luck. They really make a difference.
We have an '99 Rodeo 4WD V6 with 22.000 am on it...
I was looking for a way to make highway driving safer, mainly in terms of body lean when cornering or fast lane changing...(We do only limited off-roading...)
Maybe even less nose dive when braking(shorter braking distances, by any chance?)? We do have long and windy highways over here in Canada Even city driving (like Tom in Roswell was mentioning in a post) is a problem when changing lanes with the OEM shocks...
I knew that an SUV is not supposed to handle like a sedan, but people here have posted that they felt some improvement after upgrading the EM shocks...
So, I know that MAP had Bilsteins and then since the ride was kind of harsh he went for "Mon roe Reflex Shocks? not yet available for my '99 Passport too, ended up with Monroe Matic "
I was about to do the same(they are also much cheaper then the Bilsteins or Edelbroks), but then the vendor (a-1shocks) wondered why would I want those since they are kind of light duty for an SUB and not the Sensatracs? I've asked him if they had Rodeo customers for the Manics and his colleague said that they were happy with their purchases...
Eventually I've ordered the Sensatracs after the guy assured me that not only they will improve handling but they won't give me a much harsher ride then the EM
BOW: Thank David, I hope your Sensatrac will do the trick
I know that Tom in Roswell has the Sensatracs and he is happy with them!! We'll see for our truck... got them for about $29 each, plus $21 for I&I to Canada... My dealer will charge CAN84 for 1 1/2 hour of labor to replace the EM ones...
The second part to the story is that Chris Perosi mentioned in an earlier post that one may want to replace the torsion bar as well?
"CA) Ah, OK... Then you can replace the shocks all around with something better, like the Ranchos, Bilsteins, Edelbrocks, OMEs, whatever, just something better than the stockers. Additionally, you can do heavy-duty torsion bars from Bob Land Racing or Sway-A-Way (boblandracing.com and swayaway.com). They'll definitely keep things flatter in the turns. Hmm... What else? Be sure your tire pressure is correct, set to what it says on the door jamb, NOT what it says on the tire... Make sure all your shocks are tight, and make sure your swaybars are tight.
There's probably a lot more you can do to really fine-tune it if you'd like, but that's a good short list for now... "
I went to swaybar.com and found:
Isuzu Rodeo 4WD 27mm 39.313" Part # 1566
I didn't see anything at boblandracing.com, but I'll call/e-mail them...
I have no idea how much the torsion bar would cost or how much the dealer might charge me for replacing it, do you know?
First of all, I was curious if it is a worthy investment?(I mean besides the after market shocks)?
Thanks,
Marian
1. Squealing noise when braking. Had brought vehicle back to the Jack Miller Isuzu dealership for at least 3 times. First reported 1/4/99
2. Steering wheel made rubbing noise when turned - fixed on 1/4/99
3. Squealing noise from tire(s) when turning. The noise could be heard occasionally regardless of turning radius. First reported on 8/6/99
4. Large brown stain on headliner - stain was in vehicle on the day it was purchased. The headliner was replaced in 11/17/99
5. Rear washer won't spray washer fluid - problem reported on 12/30/99 and fixed on the same day.
6. Squeaky suspension noise - problem reported on 1/10/00 and mechanic at the dealership removed the lower right control arm bushing, lubricated it.
7. Rattling noise from rear of vehicle - problem first reported on 1/10/00. The right rear axle seal was replaced because it was leaking fluid.
8. Rattling noise from the right side of hood - problem reported on 1/10/00. The right hood hinge was or dered and installed a few weeks later.
9. Rattling noise from the tailgate - problem first reported on 1/10/00. The rear window latch was order ed and installed on 1/28/00. The same problem occurred again and was reported to the dealer on 10/18/00. It was replaced a few weeks later.
10. Rattling noise from winshield - problem first discovered in winter of 98. Rattling occurred again in winter of 99. This rattling noise occurs only on cold days. According to the dealer, this was normal.
11. Keyless remote won't unlock tailgate - problem reported on 3/16/00, but this problem existed on the day the vehicle was purchased. This was fixed on the same day it was reported.
12. Strange mild dew like odor when A/C is on - problem reported on 3/16/00 but mechanic at dealership said it was normal.
13. Paint peeled off from front grill - problem first reported on 5/23/00 and was repainted a few weeks later.
14. High-pitch squealing noise from engine when starting vehicle on very cold days - brought vehicle to dealer in winter of 99 but was not able to duplicate problem because of warm weather.
15. Rattling noise from steering wheel when driving over bumps - problem reported on 11/9/00 but mechanic said this was normal. This is not normal since it had not occurred until recently.
16. Engine light on due to broken engine intake manifold - problem reported on 11/1/00 and the intake manifold gaskets were replaced.
17. Hissing noise from the engine - reported on 11/9/00 but mechanic said it was mostly because of the related problem with the intake manifold. However, even after the intake manifold gaskets were replaced, I can still hear the hissing noise.
18. Squeaky noise from the hood - first reported the problem on 10/18/00. The first time I brought my vehicle to the dealership to resolve, part that was totally unrelated to this problem was orderd. I found out the source of the problem a few days later, and the mechanic added grease to the hood hinge. The squeaky noise stopped for a day. The third time i brought my vehicle in, the hood was raised and the squeaky noise stopped. But now I could hardly shut the hood after opening it.
Thanks guys,
Changren Yong
I wanted to let you know we have finally gotten the Isuzu Owner's club going on Town Hall! Thanks to Karen S. who is the moderator in the Owner's club area we are finally up and running. We would like to welcome all prospective Isuzu Owners, Current Owners, Former Owners, and Owners of the sister vehciles from Honda and Acura as well as the Holden and Vauxhaul equvilents to participate. Check out the link below and let's start populating those areas...
/direct/view/.eea11fe
-mike
Doc
-mike
Thanks for input. This thing didn't show any charge at all with the engine running today. Before today, it would show about 13-15 on the gauge, but drop below 12 with the hvac on. The fact that the heater motor is not working now has me concerned that this is harness or other wiring glitch.
Rich
cyong: Man, you've got one bad truck there. Unfortunately you can't take advantage of the lemon laws because they've managed to fix the major problems within 3 tries. The nagging squeaks and rattles won't count as lemon problems anyway.
My '98 just went in for it's second warranty service last week. Here's the scoop:
A) Right front window tint (aftermarket - top grade) scratched by something inside door: loose electrical connector reattached. Dealer claims Isuzu not responsible for window film, but I haven't played my last card here.
Right rear window squeaks when operated: tracks greased
C) Rattle in front while driving: bumber bolts tightened. (rattle back again this week.)
D) Recall - axle bolt problem: bolts replaced.
E) Seat belts (the 4 w/shoulder harnesses) dont retract properly: dealer said normal. Well, I guess if you don't mind an empty seatbelt sparking down the road, it's normal. Not the end of this.
F) Gas gauge failed intermittently: replaced sender and recalibrated.
G) Passenger recline handle pops loose easily.: Part ordered.
My first warranty service fixed a broken vent selector knob on the climate system (fixed), a recalled accelerator pin problem (fixed) and air in the brake lines(not fixed). Actually, the service advisor argues as to how I knew that there was air in the brake lines so I explained the symptoms and that's what he wrote down. The service mgr couldn't see the problem (must have been a moron) so I insisted that the brakes be bled and the problem was somewhat better but not perfect. I've learned to live with it for now. I inquired about the vibration problems that plague many Rodeo owners and myself and the dealer insists there is no problem.
What this boils down to is that the Rodeo is not a top-quality vehicle. There are many items that leave something to be desired. Most of the troubles that remain I blame on the poor dealerships that service Isuzu. I will never buy one again. I had just as many (but different) problems with my Jeep Grand Cherokee and also swear I will never buy another Chrysler product. My next purchase will most likely be a used MB ML320 or something similar. My keen interest now is safety. Since the crash tests have come out, I am very unconfident in my vehicle to protect my family and myself.
Anybody know a cheap way out of my Isuzu lease? I've got 20 months left.
Good Luck all.
/direct/view/.eea11fe
Thanks
Finally, last Thursday I noticed that the antifreeze bottle was empty and then checked the radiator, which was bone dry as well. When I checked the hoses and groud for stains and found none, I became really worried and my concern was justified, as I was told by the dealer that it is a blown head gasket and cylinder heads. The truck has been sitting there for a week and Isuzu still has not sent the parts to fix the piece of @#$%^. This truck only has 28,000 miles and it feels like it's been in the shop more than my driveway. Please do not buy one!!!!!!!!!
-mike
-mike
-mike
If you like the Rodeo, you should find a good dealer that can assure you (in writing) the it will fix any vibration problems (most likely tire related) and address other minor issues, which is covered by the warranty anyway.
Maybe, the only major thing that's bad is the factory shocks, which can be replaced with aftermarket (replaced mine with Monroe-matic plus) shocks for only about 80 bucks. Or you can choose the ISC (intelligent suspension) which is very comfortable for an SUV, soft but has a more controlled bounce and dive. In fact, ISC is carried over to the newer ISUZU AXIOM.
Mine is actually a "99 Honda Passport (Rodeo twin), and I fixed minor squeecks and ratlles here and their. IMO, it is very powerful, silent, and comfortable especially on long drives.
-mike
Cincinnati, Ohio to New Or leans, LA. Unfortunately, I hit a patch of "black
ice" on South 65 right by Louisville, KY. My car slid off the road and
down an embankment, we landed in a bunch of trees. If we had not been in
our Rodeo my husband and our two Jack Russell Terriers would not have
survived. Luckily with just a few scratches and bruises we lived. My
brother has made a Web page of the pictures from our accident if you go to http://mischief.dyndns.org/images/Chris_erika_accident/ you can see just how lucky we were. I think the Rodeo is a great car. Unfortunatley the only problem I am running into is trying to find a dealer who will give me a fair price on a new one.
-mike
1) A squeaking noise developed after 3 months of driving. After a few months of checking and checking posts in newsgroups, I couldn't find the source until I oiled every joint I could find.
2) If driving in heavy traffic, I can't turn on rear defroster as the car shuts off - drains the battery.
3) Consistent battery problems in weather less than 35 degrees.
4) Almost had 4 accidents due to car's failure to stop in wet road conditions. For instance a Beamer did a 360 in front of me. A Cherokee Jeep in the lane to my left was driving at the same speed was able to stop before reaching the Beamer. I on the other hand skid past the Beamer and stopped 40 - 50 ft beyond. This happened 3 more times at red lights until I got new brake pads at 13K miles but don't know if it was the cause of braking problems.
5) Taxi backed into my front bumper at approx. 30mph causing $75 damage to the taxi and $1300 to my bumper and corner panel. You can look at the underside of the bumper and see its poor construction construction
6) Bass sounds horrible.
7) Consistent rear wiper problems
8) Had to use the car jack once and guess what - it didn't work because the arm wouldn't fit into the slot.
9) The way the spare tire is positioned at an angle, ground clearance is not much higher than a regular car. I parked next to an Outback one day and noticed my clearance was lower than the Outback - go figure.
10) Takes a couple of tries to get the car started.
I will return my car in June with 10K under my allowance as I truly feel it is not a safe car to drive, especially in wet road conditions and would urge all Rodeo owners to get their brakes checked as 98 is the first yr of the new model.
I noticed how the ride can sometimes be bumpy and how sometimes it's smooth. (On the same road same speed)
Also car stops fairly quickly in dry weather, but in wet it doesn't stop.
Is there anything that can do to improve my ride?
-mike
I have a '99 Passport (Rodeo twin) and I can tell you that the factory shocks are CHEAP, real cheap. It's only for smooth roads and not designed to be driven on rough surface which defeats the purpose of an SUV in the first place.
Actually, I believe the harsh ride contributed to the worsening body rattles. Since I switched to MONROE MATIC PLUS, the ride was MUCH MUCH BETTER. Softer on bumps and potholes and rebound is very much controlled compared to the "floaty factory shocks", I can feel that the wheels can follow the road contour as compared to the factory shocks the abruptly jolts you up. Body ratlles were not that loud anymore. I bought it www.A-1shocks.com for about 80 bucks including shipping.
Make sure you order MONROE MATIC-PLUS and not the other line of shocks there that they are discounting and offering promos. This one has no promo but delivers a car-soft ride. Part numbers are 32336 front and 32337 rear.
I'm have more than 10,000 miles on my monroe and very very happy. I should have bought them earlier, maybe my SUV could have much much less rattles.
I tried Bilstein before the Monroes, the Bilstein are too stiff for my wife's taste, especially on long drives. IMHO, the Bilstein have superior road control, corners very flat, but I can feel every peeble on the road. Besides, the Bilstein costs about 190 bucks.
Bottomline, it depends on your taste. I prefer more comfortable ride.
i had good tires on it , in good condition, and the brakes are good.
Is it me or , is the way the the car was made
It turned out that the Rodeo's ABS logic is very simplistic and too sensitive. It kicks in when slowing on bumps. Once it kicks in, stopping power is so inadequate that you risk of running over people or hitting other cars.
I had a number of close calls because of it. I now learned to abort the ABS and improve stopping power by reducing the pressure on the brakes and reapplying it again. And repeat the sequence if the ABS kicks again in a very quick succession.
The ABS brakes (in general) is intended to maintain directional control while stopping. But the Rodeo's ABS gives up too much stopping power. It doesn't feel safe for me and I scared to let my wife drive it.