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Nissan Pathfinder



  • deebardacdeebardac Posts: 23
    With reference to Post 6502. After a further 4300 miles on the Cross Terrains tread left shows 7/32nds outside and
    6/32nds on the inside. Seems 28lbs was a good pressure but I am going down to 26lbs to see if the wear evens out. The left rear tire showed slightly more wear, possibly due to the weight of the driver plus the fuel tank all on one side. Total miles on tires sofar 14000 miles.
  • Hi. I was hoping someone might be able to give me the real numbers for 3 parts for my '98 Pathfinder SE. Out of 3 dealers, I've gotten several different numbers and no one can seem to agree. They are insisting that their numbers are right but too bad I won't know until I special order the parts - then they aren't returnable. ANYWAY, If anyone has access to the part #s for 1.Vacuum Cut Bypass Valve, 2.Vacuum Cut Valve, 3.EVAP Purge Control Valve(this is the duty cycle type) THANKS!!
  • Just curious if anyone out there has replaced their in-cabin microfilter. I have a 2001 LE with almost 19,000 miles. The service manual says it should be replaced at 15,000 but my wife's Honda Accord didn't need to be replaced until 30,000. The local dealership wants $34 for the filter not counting the installation. I think I could do it myself, but would appreciate the input. I called Advance auto to see if they had an aftermarket filter, but they told me that the Nissan place was the only place I could get one. Bummer!
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Posts: 1,091
    I have 26K on my QX4 and did not let them change it at 15K. How dirty is it really at 30K? Did you look at the Honda filter after it came out at 30K? I will ask for the filter when I get it changed and I believe my service department to be honest but I don't know for sure if they will give me MY filter.
  • smibradsmibrad Posts: 34
    I have a 2001 PF with 49,500 miles. I changed my microfilter at 30,000 miles. Most of my driving is on paved roads, yet the filters where very dirty! (Yes, filters. There are two. One sits on top of the other.) I replaced the filters myself. They come with instructions and it only take 20 minutes to replace. All you need is a screw driver. The instructions say to disconnect some wires, but there is plenty of extra length that I just left them connected. In my opinion, it is now worth paying the dealer to have it done. It is easy to do it yourself.
  • db2gurudb2guru Posts: 2
    No it wasn't fuel injection problems..

    After visiting the dealer 4 times with this issue, I finally drove with a mechanic and recreated the problem after 15 minutes of driving.

    Just to recap: When merging onto the highway, under heavy acceleration (30 to 65mph), the pathfinder loses power, and refuses to accelerate. Just last Monday I was stuck for 2 minutes going 30mph (Engine runs rough) on I-90, while cars were zipping by..

    Well the mechanic said that the problem was the "Main Air Flow Sensor", but was surprised that the *Check Engine* light did not illuminate.

    He had not seen this problem on PF's, but had seen this numerous times on the 01 MAXIMA. (which makes sense, since they're the same
    Engine) Why didn't they think of this before? (I don't know..)

    Thank god I found it to, as I have 35600 miles on it, and was worried that they ask for money once out of warranty.

    Other than this issue.. I've been very happy with my PF.. Not so happy with the dealer..
  • pumpdudepumpdude Posts: 4
    I concur with smibrad about the filter.

    All you need is a screwdriver and 15-20 minutes.

    Mine did not come with one so I had to use a razor knife to make the slot as my dealer said he had no way of "retrofitting" for the filter.

    There are several on-line stores where you can buy the filter(2).
  • Thanks everyone for the replies about the in-cabin filter. I think I will try to hold out until 30k miles for replacement since I can't tell I'm having any problems with airflow. I will do the work myself since it doesn't sound like it will be too complicated.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    Changing it is not complicated if you are comfortable removing dash pieces. You have to remove the glovebox (it is easy, but you do have to be brave). The instructions that came with the filter in 2001 were wrong. I hope they have corrected them (they neglected to mention one screw that had to be removed - and it was easier if you removed the logo plaque above the glovebox). If you look way back you will find my instructions in a post. Yes, I too had to cut the slot in the fan box for the filter.
  • Hello. I just recently purchased a 2001 Pathfinder LE from Carmax. I just realized the standard cargo cover is missing from my car and when I called a local dealer to order one, I about fell over when I heard the price they wanted for a new one. Does anyone know where I can get one for a reasonable price? I am also going to call Carmax and see if they can locate the original or replace it.
    Also, I a month from the basic warranty expiring and I am considering getting one of Nissan's extended warranties. I would appreciate a recommendation for a plan to consider. I have a local dealer willing to sell me the gold preferred for 5yr/100K miles for under $1K. Is this a good plan or would you recommend looking elsewhere?
    Thanks. I really like my Pathfinder and think it was the best bet for a used SUV in this class size.
  • nikiblue1nikiblue1 Posts: 44
    Try ebay, I've seen them go for around $100.
  • twelsh140twelsh140 Posts: 7
    1. I have had 3 Pathfinders all with the in cabin air filter. I have always changed mine every year or 15,000 miles. The filter is packed full of dirt. You can change on your own, or have dealer. Yes you do have to remove glove box and on some years make a cut out. Dealer in my area is very cheap.
    2. As for poor performance on 2001 AC my pathfinder always produced ice cold air 40 degrees at center duck.
    3. My 2003 Pathfinder is a different story with very slow and poor performance of AC. On a hot day after 30 minutes of highway driving the AC can only produce 50 degrees. Dealers in my area have been flooded with complaints of poor AC performance. Nissan's answer it meets factory specifications. If Nissan does not solve this problem I will not be buying a new Pathfinder in 2 years.
  • pathfinder13pathfinder13 Posts: 110
    My dealer told me, it's all upto me if I want to change the filter or not so I didn't change it.
  • pathfinder13pathfinder13 Posts: 110
    My dealer said will cost me 119$ to change it but when I looked in edmunds guide it says $20. What is the actual cost to change it.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Posts: 1,091
    I remember when I went to the Infiniti dealership for the 15K service he wanted over $100 to change the filter. I opted to wait until 30K. This will be coming up this fall. Now I am thinking about doing it myself. I am not too happy about having to cut a part of my dash though.
  • smibradsmibrad Posts: 34
    bigorange30........if you already have a microfilter installed then you don't need to perform any cutting. This is only needed if you previously didn't have one installed.

    Also, removing the glove box is a lot easier than it sounds.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Thank you very much for your information on the 03 Patfinder A/C performance. I have been considering buying one but I live in central Florida and the last thing I need is a weak A/C system in my vehicle.
    I own two Nissans: a 95 SE V6 4X4 pickup and a 98 Maxima SE. Both have outstanding A/C systems and I have never had any problem with A/C on these vehicles. I am somewhat disappointed reading about problems and deficiencies with new Nissans. Why can't they leave good things alone? Constant redesigns, quest for cheaper parts, and cheaper labor is not the answer.
    My 95 pickup A/C is so powerful that I do not need to run the system in the recirculation mode in the peak of summer in Florida, and I run the fan on only second speed most of the time. In eight years I have not touched the system and it still works as good as on the day I bought the truck.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    on my 94 Altima, 96 Maxima and 02 QX4 are all ice cold. I never turn temp all the way down, or I'd be too cold and sneeze.
  • spinbearspinbear Posts: 9
    In the six weeks that we've had our new PF, the A/C seems to be working just fine -- gets cold quick, esp. if set to recirculate at first for the initial cool-down after being in the sun. However, this is our first PF, so no previous models to compare it to. Very happy with our purchase so far.
  • pathfinder13pathfinder13 Posts: 110
    Can anyone tell me what is the best way to tell if the vechile has microfilter or not.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    I believe the best way is to open the glove box door and see if there is a sticker on it. My QX4 has two stickers, one is for the tire/wheel, and the one in the center (recessed area) is for the micro filter, saying something like "replace it every 30,000 km or 1 year..."
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    If the sticker is not there, look up behind the glove box on the air plenum (plastic ribbed housing). It goes in on the right end of the plenum, as I recall.
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    I paid $30 or so for mine at the parts dept at my local dlr. Nissan has a discount coupon on their website for any parts purchases. This is definitely a DIY job. Why pay the dealer so much $$$ ($100+ including the part) for labor? It will take you 15 - 20 minutes max.

    As far as the A/C issues with the '03 PFs, why not just get a used PF then? If I were in the market today, I would get an '01 since that has the VQ35 motor so it is the same car as an '03 other than a redesigned dashboard, 17" alloys (LE only), tire pressure monitor (optional) & VDC (optional as well). Save your $$$; why take the depreciation hit? I would have bought used in 12/00 but I didn't because I was coming out of my lease on a 99.5 PF SE Limited and wanted the 3.5l engine.

    As for the extended warranty question, if you have the vehicle history/service records, and they are clean, there is no need to spend the $$$ on an extended warranty on these cars. If it was an Audi/VW I would definitely say yes since they are known to have reliability issues. The PF has been ranked the best SUV in its class in initial quality the last few years and also just ranked #2 in it's class for long-term reliability (JD Power).
  • garthdgarthd Posts: 2
    2 things I am trying to get fixed:

    1) shrill metallic squeal coming from front end after 15-20min driving, appears once speed is over 40kph

    2) power loss at higher speed/high rpms (ie hills climbs over 70kpm and 3500 RPM). Engine feels like it is choking itself out. Easing up on gas results in power recovery.

    Any thoughts?
  • mchinmchin Posts: 22
    I was checking the battery cell levels last evening. I filled the cells that needed to be filled with distilled water. I started the car this morning and the AT temp, battery and brake light came on. I drove it about a mile and the warning lights would go off and come back on. Has this every happen to anyone? Thanks.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    I don't think the warning lights are related to your battery maintenance. The occurrence is likely coincidental.

    If all of those lights turn on at once, it could be a sign of a loose belt. Check the tension and condition of the serpentine belt, which runs your alternator (battery warning lamp), water pump, and engine fan (AT temp warning lamp).

    As for the brake light, check the fluid level in the reservoir. If it's low, the brake warning lamp will glow. The brake fluid level may be low because your front (or rear) brakes may be near the end of their useful life and should be checked.
  • mchinmchin Posts: 22
    Weird how all of a sudden the belt would become loose??
    I know that the brake fluid level is fine. You might be right about the brake pads. They may need to be replaced. Any idea on how much it will cost to replace by the dealer? Is it easy to replace it yourself?

    Thanks for your help xplorx4...
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    Not sure how much your local dealer quotes for front brake pad replacement. Contact some other local auto service shops for estimates as well. Ask them what they do, besides just replace the pads. Some places will also resurface (aka "turn") the rotors, which is quite a bit more costly. Depending on the mileage on your truck, they may also try to sell you a brake system flush, which may not be a bad idea if your truck has over 60,000 miles.

    If you've got a garage, a floor jack, a lug wrench, a C-clamp and a 14mm socket/ratchet, you can do a "pad slap"- replace the pads without servicing the rotors in less than an hour. It's a relatively simple job, but if you're not handy with tools or are remotely squeamish about working on your car yourself, leave it up to a qualified shop.

    For reference, during the first 110,000 miles, I did nothing more than "pad slaps" (myself) before it was necessary to remove the rotors, which were in need of replacement. I was fortunate enough not to have ever warped my rotors, unlike many other people on this discussion board.

    Also (FYI), rear brakes tend to outlast front brakes by 3 to 1 or 4 to 1. That is, you'll probably replace your front pads 3 or 4 times before you need new rear shoes.
  • dcmikedcmike Posts: 53
    First time poster on this board (usually on the Maxima board) with a question - my sister just bought an 03 LE PF and told me that it was AWD. Is there any labeling outside the vehicle to specify that it is an AWD model? I know that my wife's Highlander clearly states AWD, just wondering if the PF does as well (because of the price, I'm really concerned that the dealership screwed her and gave her a 2WD instead of the 4WD). Thanks for your help...
  • dpphotodpphoto Posts: 1
    I am thinking about buying a 2000 4x4 PF from a dealer. The car is from New York and I live in CA, will I have trouble with the DMV and passing smog. Is the 2000 a good modle year? Thanks
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