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Nissan Pathfinder



  • Recently I attempted to negotiate the purchase of a 2003 PF LE. In addition to the $2000.00 rebate and $500.00 manuf. to dealer cash, the salesperson said there was an additional $900.00 in possible incentives to the dealer that he would try to apply to my transaction. He would not go into great detail what it was. The $900.00 dollar number is not posted on the Edmund's/Nissan- rebate/incentive page. Does anyone know what it is and how long it is available?
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    It might be something called dealer holdback. It is the cash given to dealers for the period of time the car sits in the lot (around 2-3% of MSRP). Like a supplement for inventory costs. Th sooner they sell it, the more they keep. The longer it sits on the lot, the more the dealer uses this supplement to pay for inventory costs. It is the last thing the dealer will negotiate. The number is located on the actual Manufacturer invoice, request it(not the dealership print out they give you). Look for "Holdback" near the end of invoice(next to MSRP).Great time to buy a car. Buyers market! Push hard! Good luck!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    There may also be a manufacturer-to-dealer incentive that we consumers wouldn't ordinarily know about. Manufacturer to Dealer Programs

    Here's a holdback link.

    Steve, Host
  • I have a 2001 LE that I bought used back in July. I have had it in the dealship 8 times to attempt to fix a rattling driver side window. I am so frustrated I am considering selling it after 3 months. I have seen the service bulletin for the 99 model year to fix a window rattle in the same area where I hear the rattle (along the top of the window. I wonder if this TSB would include the 01? Has anyone had any luck in resolving a window rattle. The dealer has been very nice to attempt to fix it, but it has yet to be fixed. I am the end of rope on this and don't know what else to do.
  • sivi1sivi1 Posts: 82
    i thought pix of new pathfinder were great, not overdone.
  • hi,
    new to the board here. i'd like to buy an older PF (92~96 4wd) and use it as a work truck (taking out the back seat). in any case, i know nothing about these cars other than they seem to be pretty reliable. most of the cars i've been looking at have between 100K~135K miles. buying a car with this many miles on it, what should i be aware of? what should i be looking for and what kinds of repairs may i be looking at in the immediate future?

    thanks for your comments,
  • brisoupbrisoup Posts: 45
    I don't own a older Pathfinder but I can give you some suggestions.First I would go to and see if I can get some kind of vehicle history report.Then I would see if the regular preventive maintnance has been done on the vehicle.(buying from a private party may be helpful for this.) Finally I would have the truck inspected by a trusted mechcanic to look for any potential problems.But in the end buying a older vehicle is just like a crap shoot....Either hit or miss...
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    I have the same pathy with 36K miles. However, I do not have the same issue. Look on for a list of your TSB issues. I do not remember a TSB for a driver side window rattle. It did have other TSBs rattle issues such as for the rear hatch and shocks. I have the rear hatch rattle issue.

    Did the dealer look at the internal components of the window (ie, take off the door panel)? It may be just loose components (wires, hangings vibrating against each other, etc.) or a loose window seat. Window may need adjusting to seal and seat better. It may be a replacement for a broken OEM window but still has loose galss/debris inside door panel. It might be a wrong/poorly designed aftermarket replacment window that doesn't fit exactly. Hope that helps. Good luck.
  • pumerpumer Posts: 2
    I have a super cool '94 Pathfinder. It has the rims, grill guard, sport shock option, heated leather seats, CD/cassete..... It is dope!! The only problem is that in the morning when I put it into reverse, after letting it warm up for a good 30seconds, it stalls out. Also, if it at first it doesn't stall in reverse, it stalls when I get to the top of the incline out of my garage. Keep in mind it only happens in the morning after it has sat overnight. Also,I have 124K on it; I bought it with all maintenance records, last tune up was at 80K.. Any advice on this problem would be very appreciated.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Check your ignition wires, dist. cap and rotor. Change your fuel filter. Have your throttle body cleaned and fuel system cleaner added to gas tank. Check your air filter and air intake pipe for cracks. A lot of times stalling is caused by a bad PCV valve or PCV lines.

    Or you can probably manually re-adjust your idle speed if out of spec.
  • I have two offers on leases that look attractive. Both are 39 month leases with 12k miles per year. Looking for anyone's two cents:

    Option 1: SE with popular package, sunroof package, hitch, microfilter, mats, etc. ($32K sticker) Offer: $0 down, $346/month.

    Option 2: Demo LE (4,500 miles, loaded, $35K sticker)Offer:$1,500 down, $359/month.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Check your ignition wires, dist. cap and rotor. Change your fuel filter. Have your throttle body cleaned and fuel system cleaner added to gas tank. Check your air filter and air intake pipe for cracks. A lot of times stalling is caused by a bad PCV valve or PCV lines.

    Or you can probably manually re-adjust your idle speed if out of spec.
  • pumerpumer Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice "Ibinh". I appreciate it. Your right, Every time I put the fuel cleaner in it, it runs mcuh better (less stalling prone). Now I know where to start, to attempt to solve this annoying little deal. Thanks again!! If there is any other hints out there, they are welcome.
    You rule.
  • I just negotiated a lease for the 2003 Nissan Pathfinder LE 4X4 Fully loading for $423 a month no money down. I think it a fair deal. Please tell me your Input.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    I learn as much from comments as I hope to help them.

    I also read that oil gasket leaks could be caused by a cloged PCV valve or PCV lines. Pressure normally alleviatede by the valve is built up in the engine and causes gasket leaks. If you have a gasket leak and stalling problems, it might just be the PCV system. Cheap fix.
  • anybody know of a good place to get replacement rotors in southern california installed? oh, and also which are the best non-stock rotors out there?
  • Hi,

    I was wondering if anyone else has this problem. The front passenger seat belt constantly locks up for no reason. One minute all is well, then the next you are pinned to the seat. It is really annoying. The only way to temporarily fix it is by unlatching the belt and letting it retract and then re-belting. I have complained about this to the Nissan dealer at every service. They always say it is just fine.

    Besides from that and one other issue, we are very happy with our Canadian PF. I actually just got off the phone with Nissan USA because we are having warantee issues. There is a leak (most likely water) on the drivers side somewhere that is constantly saturating the carpet and goes right through the mat. When I brought the PF for service I had them look at it quickly...they don't do this kind of repair on Saturdays. They said the PF would have to stay overnight at some point to find where the leak is. Anyway they went to look up my warantee and said it wasn't on the system.

    Luckily, I followed John's every instruction and I transferred the warantee to the US when we got home. I even saved the case number. It sure came in handy. I heard that you can't transfer a warantee from Canada to US anymore...bummer. Anyway, Nissan was pretty nice about it on the phone. They said that the warantee is transferred and that they could not explain why the dealer had no record. They the person that helped me put me on hold while he called the local Nissan Dealership. Next thing I know I bring the car in next week to get the leak taken care of....I mentioned the seat belt too. Hopefully they will just replace it.

    My only complaint is that my 2001 doesn't have the LATCH system. Installing a car seat is really a pain. I feel like I need 3 hands.

    Thanks for listening to me ramble. Any advise anyone has is appreciated.
  • Might purchase 2001 le, 40,000 miles and they're asking $21,000. Price seems pretty fair. What kind of warranty remains on this? Also, what are some typical maitenance concerns are there at 40,000 miles?

  • smibradsmibrad Posts: 34
    $21,000 sounds too high. The bumper to bumper warrenty runs out at 36,000 miles. If you go to the appraisal section on Edmunds, you will see that a 2001 LE in excellent condition has a dealer retail price of $19,438 and a private price of $17,689.
  • scantyscanty Posts: 171
    Ask Terry over in "Real World Trade-In Values." Be sure to give him all of the info (style, trim, condition, extra equipment, color, etc.) and your location. He'll shoot you an accurate price.
  • Just got off the phone with Carmax salesman in White Marsh. He told me they will soon be selling 2004 Pathfinder Platinum Edition....the last of the current body platform models. Has anyone else heard of this model? Told me that colors will be added and some dropped.....door handles will now be color coordinated like QX4.
  • The dealer said squeaks and rattles are only covered during the first year or 12K miles. I have a 2001 GLE, leather seats with 34K miles. All of a sudden both front seats starting squeaking when occupied. It's getting very annoying. Any one else experiencing this? I would appreciate any suggestion...
  • Hello,

    I saw the tv commercial for the Chinook, if it's replacing the Chilkoot (like the 03 I have) why does it show the vehicle with a sunroof ? It's the base model, not the higher up SE or LE. My 2003 brochure shows sunroof standard on SE & LE, not available on Chilkoot. Is this a new change for 04 model ?
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    For MY04, what has been called the LE model will now be called the Platinum Edition. It has many of the extras that the outgoing QX4 had. This includes the electroluminscent guages, the aluminum like trim around the shifter, special interior dark wood trim, PE badging, platinum colored wheels and aluminum door sill plates w/ the PF logo. There are 3 new exterior colors, Canteen, Platinum (PE only) and Luminous Gold.

    Personally, if I was in the market for a PF, I would either wait for the redesigned '05 model w/ 3rd row seating or pickup a '01 LE thereby saving a minimum of $10k in depreciation costs. The only reason why I bought new in 12/00 was because I wanted the VQ35 engine (new for MY01) and needed a car right away as I was coming out of a leased 99.5 PF SE. The PFs have not changed significantly since '01 --bigger wheels on the LE, some minor interior styling changes and recent availability of the VDC and tire pressure monitor options. And oh yes, the deletion of the nav option that appeared in MY01 and the deletion of the SE 5-speed option starting in MY02 I believe (or maybe it was '03?).
  • goose1207goose1207 Posts: 113
    For those of you that are DIYers, how long does it take to R/R the front rotors and all 4 pads? Is this a straightforward procedure on the PF (MY01+)? Are the instructions available anywhere other than the Nissan technical svc manual that costs over $200? Thanks.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    I bought my 2001 LE with 26K miles in Houston in Feb '03 for 19,250. Neg. from 19,500 asking price. Mint condition. Haggled but I sensed they were willing to deal. Got a new windshield and $250 dollars. I felt in hindsight that i could of gotten more off the price.

    Only warranty left on your potential is corrosion and powertrain warranty for 5yr/60K miles. 2001 Pathy have very little maintenance besides simple oil changes and all filters until 105K mile interval.
  • I also bought a 2001 LE this past summer. When I bought the truck this past August it had 25,000 miles on it and was in excellent condition other than a few small paint chips. Seller was asking $21k and I bargained down to $19,800. At the time, dealerships in the Milwaukee area were asking $24k+ for LE's with similar or higher mileage. I'd say $21k is pretty high and you should be able to get down quite a bit lower.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    Replacing the pads only is a pretty simple process. Replacing the rotor is somewhat more difficult, as you need to remove the hub.

    If you decide to change/remove the rotors yourself, you won't necessarily need to repack the bearings or install a new grease seal, but as long as you've got the hub off, you might as well do that little extra work.

    You'll need a grease gun and a bearing repacking tool, which makes repacking the bearings a lot easier.

    You will probably want to get some new inner wheel bearing grease seals, too. The whole process isn't really that hard, it's just a little time consuming and quite messy. Have a decent supply of paper towels and/or shop rags close by.

    The process is relatively simple, but time-consuming:
    1) Remove wheel
    2) Remove brake pads
    3) Remove brake caliper
    4) Remove drive flange (Refer to these photos.)
    5) Remove locknut retaining washer (use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws; the screw heads are very easy to strip, so be careful!)
    6) Remove bearing locknut
    7) Remove outer bearing
    8) Slide hub/rotor off the spindle
    9) On the back of the hub, unbolt the rotor (six 14mm bolts)
    10) Take rotor to an auto parts/auto repair center to be machined
    11) Remove inner bearing and grease seal: Place the hub face-up while supporting it around the edges on a vice or blocks of wood. Tap out the inner bearing and seal from the top, forcing the bearing and seal to pop out from the bottom. Use a wooden dowel or hammer handle to pop out the seal, tapping around the circumference a little at a time. Do not pry it out from the back. *Note the orientation of the seal before removing it.
    12) Repack the bearings.
    13) Wipe off old grease from the spindle and the hub, reattach rotor, reinstall inner bearing and grease seal
    14) Reinstall everything in the reverse order it was removed.

    Here's a photo write-up of the bearing repacking process on the Xterra, which is very similar to the Pathfinder, once you're down to the hub locknut. The main difference between my procedure and the one described in the link is how to remove the inner grease seal.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    You don't need to repack the bearings when replacing the rotor. Therefore you don't need to remove the inner bearings or grease seals either. You just need to be careful not to damage them.

    If you do opt to repack the bearings, be sure to buy new grease seals.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 382
    I have an '01 PF with a limited slip differential. I recently changed the rear axle gear lube, and used Mobil 1 synthetic (Mobil recommends it for limited slip units). Now the limited slip function no longer works. It's not making any odd noises or anything, it just no longer works. I can tell because if I have to accelerate hard on a wet road, one of the rear tires will spin never did that before I changed the gear lube. One thing I did notice is that the owner's manual calls for 80W90 viscosity, and the Mobil 1 product is 75W90. Might this be the problem? Does anyone have any ideas on what I should be using? I prefer to use a synthetic product since I tow a 4000 lb boat and trailer frequently. Anyone know what product the dealers use for limited slip units? Thanks in advance for your help.
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