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Nissan Pathfinder



  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,727
    I've ridden in a LX 470 and they are very quiet. The one I road in did have some rattles that really surprised me, but it was extremely quiet at all speeds. Toyotas 4.7 v8 is buttery smooth and you can hardly tell it's running even when pushed.
  • woodyr1woodyr1 Posts: 142
    Which model of the Geolander did you have installed? Thanks
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Alright, my 1993 ES300 is a bad example/comparison. I have driven the 2000 RX 300 with little to no noise not like my 2001 LE Pathfinder. In fact, I have driven a 1995 and 2001 Isuzu Rodeo with less wind and road noise at highway speeds. It may be just my Pathfinder and the OEM Duellers. Maybe also the very thick roof rack.

    FYI..I moved the forward roof rail back(to rear) as much as possible and it helped a little with the wind noise

    Don't get me wrong. All in all, I love my Pathfinder. The quality build, good design, and awesome engine.
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    Thanks for the great analysis. That is exactly what I was looking for.

    Like Woodyr1 asked, which Geolander model did you buy? There are three. I think you got the unidirectional model with the sportier handling. If so, I think the standard model would ride a little softer with less handling. The third model is for heavy duty commercial trucks.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,727
    I had the Geolander H/T G051 installed.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    I remember shows the Dueller H/T 689 (OEM on QX4) is quieter than many other tires, althrough not the quietest. Not sure of tirerack's index number, maybe from consumers' statistics.

    When I am at a constant speed and turn my head around and face to the right side, I hear more noise comes from the back. Maybe caused by the liftgate that can leak some air compared to a fix glass, or maybe caused by the less airodynamic square shape of the back.

    Wonder if anybody applied sound-deadening material to their Path/QX4.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Another thing to consider is the Air Deflector attached to lift gate...
  • Jiamin,

    I have also noticed noise from the glass liftgate, especially on rainy days. I wonder if a wider seal or thicker glass would reduce the noise. I don't think there is a fix for this, so we might have to accept it. The noise is noticeable, but not bothersome...I just crank up the radio !!!
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    Hi jack44,
    I have the air deflector on (from factory). I'll take it off to check the noise difference.

    Hi pathalogical,
    Right, I don't think there's a fix to the lift gate. Thicker glass is definetely better that's way some high-class cars have thicker glass. BTW my 00 RX300's front window glass is thicker than the back which is as thick as the QX4's. They say some MB cars even have double-pane windows...
  • I have an '03 LE and am looking to ditch the crappy Toyo's that it came with (21k and more than 1/2 the tread is gone, plus there's no grip in the dirt or snow). One problem is the selection for 255/65/16's isn't very good. I was wondering if anyone has tried 255/70/16's and if there was any problem with rubbing? Looking to get a good AT tire that's good in the Sierra snow, any suggestions would be great. Thanks
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    You might consider the Michelin LTX...They come in 255/65/16's...I have them on my QX4, original tires, now 35,000, probably at 1/2 tread, and am very satisfied...
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    I took two roof crossbars off and tried both local and highway drive. It's hard to tell because wind conditions change. Well at least it does not seem to reduce noise a lot.

    Just recalled driving on one particular road, the QX4 was very quiet. So I think road/tire noise has
    a big % of the total.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    Remember from another site that one Maxima owner took almost all interior trim panels off, and applied sound-deadening material behind the panels. The car was much quieter. Later he sold that Max and got a Lexus LS400 and started working on it (if I remember right) to further reduce the already very low noise...
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190
    I agree with you jiamin. I notice very little noise on smooth asphalt roads (little to no tire or road noise, wished all roads were smooth asphalt for our Pathys). It must definitely be combination tire/road noise and poor sound insulation. Sound deadening material looks like the way to go. Anyone have ideas on where to strategically place the sound insulation material?

    The roof rack removal does help some with the wind noise.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    I used it one time on my 86 Sentra. When I slamed close its door or just knocked on the door panel, it sounded like a cheap tin can. Took the plastic interior panel off and glued some sound deadening material (maybe called dynomat?) to the door metal wall. Was not a good job because the access was bad. It noticeably reduced the tin can vibrating sound, became a very solid piece. But it didn't reduce overall noise much, as I think the whole car was cheaply built. I knocked the roof panel and it sounded like a real tin can...

    I read the wheel well can be a starting point to reduce road/tire noise, and there is some spray type of sound deadening material to apply. But don't know the details.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    I haven't noticed that the Pathfinder is noisy. To me it's quiet. Certainly not as quiet as a sedan, but some wind noise is expected from such a "brick". There is a lot of noise from the rear wheel wells, water noise in the wet, and stone noise when on gravel.

    The latest "hot setup" for noise reduction is "Brown Bread". Ususally sold at car audio places. It sticks on. Not too expensive, but not cheap either.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    Somewhere I read manufacturers use asphalt based material for noise reduction. I wonder in the wheel well if I use the roof patching asphalt coating from Home Depot, will that reduce tire/road noise to the degree I can tell the difference before and after?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    It will work to some extent. However, even if you manage to get it to seal perfectly, eventually a void will develop behind it, which will collect corrosive chemicals. This will eat the body steel. What you're really talking about here is undercoating. In wheel wells it tends to be high maintenance, which is why most cars now have plastic fender liners. It would be best to use the audio damping stuff on the inside. It will not trap corrosive chemicals there. Brown Bread, Dynamat, etc. Easy to apply too, just lift the rear seat bottom. Shouldn't take much material.
  • jiaminjiamin Posts: 556
    Thanks pathstar1, for the reply.

    I think I'll try what you just recommended, under the rear seat. That's an easy enough access. Maybe next I'll try the trunk area, under the carpet which is an easy access too. The door panel is a little difficult to remove and also not so easy to apply material inside, and I think it mainly reduces wind noise that is not so bad compared to road/tire noise.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    I just put a set of 265/70SR-16 Yokohama Geolandar A/T Plus II's on my '03 SE 4x4.
    Yes, there is some rubbing. The rears are fine, but the fronts rub at the extremes of steering wheel travel left and right. I removed the mud flaps from the front wheel wells and managed to adjust the splash guard at the front of the wheel well away from the tires and all seems to be good.
    The Geolandar A/T Plus II's are GREAT by the way -- in both wet and dry. (and based on their ratings at, I expect them to be spectacular in the snow.) Steering response is tremendous compared to the OEM Duelers. The larger size really looks good too -- I have gotten several positive comments on how well the tires fill the wheel wells. Really changes the look of the truck -- looks very agressive now.
    I'd recommend them as long as you don't mind doing some minor mods to the front wheel wells.
    Btw: Notice I went up to 265/70 size as opposed to 255/70. If you keep the 265 width but go up to a 70 series tire, you end up with a narrower contact patch. (of course, the 255/70 might not rub... )
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    is set to be early may of 2004.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    They sound nice...But remember if you do a lot of snow driving...That thinner tires work better in snow than do wider tires...The wider tires act like snow shoes and you will ride up on top of the snow rather than dig down deeper for traction...Something to consider if you live back east and encounter snow for more months than here for just a California weekender...
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    I think you now mean the Nissan Pathfinder Armada...The huge 8 passenger V8 powered SUV...No more mid size...
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    the armada has been out now for 6 weeks. im talking about the 2005 model pathfinder. midsize, 3 rows of seats, and a full redesign.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 382
    Smokey, in your post #7071 you don't have the facts entirely correct. Mobil did not tell me their product is incompatable with the LSD in my '01 Pathfinder. (see my post #7048) What they did say is that a friction modifier additive is required in my vehicle, and they said that the my owners manual specifically states this. However, I pointed out to them that the bottle their product comes in says that it is LSD compatable, but does not say a friction modifier additive may be required. I suggested they note that on the bottle, and they told me they would pass my suggestion onto their Marketing Department. At least one competitive product (Red Line) comes with the friction modifier already mixed in. I've purchased it, but have not had a chance to replace the Mobil 1 product that is in my rear axle now. I'm curious to see if my LSD works properly again after I make the switch.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    That's what I meant SHARK715... by not compatible I meant without a friction modifier. But, the tech I spoke with at Mobil 1 said that it is completely compatible without any friction modifier... straight out of the bottle. In addition, nowhere in the users manual or the service manual does it call for the addition of a friction modifier. It only tells what weight is required & something else (don't have my service manual with me), but Mobil 1 gear lube meets both of these. Also, I have always used Mobil 1 gear lube in my PF & the LSD still works. You might want to call Mobil again to see what they say this time. Just out of curiosity, have you tested it by jacking up the rear end to make sure it is definitely not working?
  • lbinhlbinh Posts: 190

    Can you explain to us in detail the mud guard "mods" you mentioned. How long did it take with what tools? Did the mods change the look of the mud guards? Any other rubbing after the mods?
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 382
    Smokey, I didn't speak to anyone at Mobil in person. I sent an email to the web address on the bottle and they responded in writing. Their response was "Your owner's manual recommends a friction modifier that must be added
    with the Mobil1 product." My owners manual calls for "Only LSD gear oil: API GL-5 and SAE 80W-90 approved for Nissan LSD" I have the factory service manual and it says exactly the same thing. I didn't try jacking up the car as you suggested, but I'm familiar with that procedure. I've had several cars in the past with LSD's. Mine is definitely not working anymore. If I have to accelerate quickly from a stop on a slippery road, the right rear tire will loose traction. If the LSD were working properly, both rear tires would lose traction simultaneously (if traction were lost at all). It's certainly possible that the problem has nothing to do with the Mobil 1 gear oil, but it sure seems coincidental. I do a lot of heavy towing, and I guess the heat generated from towing could have damaged the LSD unit. That's why I thought a synthetic product would be a good idea. When I get a chance to install the Red Line product I'll let you know if it solves the problem.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    The rubbing is very minor. It only happens when:

    Backing up while turning the wheel to nearly the full extent left or right and then applying the brakes. (like backing out of a tight parking space)

    It never rubs during during forward travel.

    The rubbing occurs at the extreme left and right limit of the wheels -- the outside front edge of the tread catches on the front of the wheel well "tubs."

    The mods are very minor and shoud require no more than normal household handtools.
    Mod 1:
    I removed the mud flaps from the rear of the front wheel well. They weren't rubbing, but one part was within 1/2" or so of the tire. I removed the flaps just for extra clearance for "fenderbergs" (snow build-up) in winter. (they seemed to be more for looks than anything since the step/running boards below the doors will deflect most any sand, snow, etc. coming off the front wheels.)
    You need to remove three screws (2 hex heads, one philips) from each side. Total time 5 minutes.

    Mod 2:
    (This one is still in process.) I need to push the inside plastic wheel well tubs at the front of the wheel wells forward only an inch or so. The tubs are plastic and are lightly bolted/screwed to various body points. They are extremely flexible and I can easily push them to allow even more clearance than I need. The trick is to figure a way to attach a bracket to push them away from the tire from inside the wheel well, or pull them away from inside the fender. The only thing I've tried so far is to wedge something -- don't laugh, I used a few of my daughter's Legos -- inside the edge of the fender between the fender and the tubs. This seemed to work, but it is only a temporary solution as they will eventually fall out, or (if glued in place)could become traps for sand and salt.

    I will post a couple of pictures when I get a chance.


    PS: Jack44 -- you make a good point about the width of the tire in snow. (and being from New Hampshire I usually see fair amount of it.)
    But by increasing the width from 255 to 265 AND increasing the sidewall ratio from 65 to 70, I have kept the same overall treadwidth. Only the diameter increased. (by about 1/5")
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Posts: 621
    Instead of using Lego bricks to mod your front wheel wells, if you have a blow-dryer or a heat gun, you can heat the fender liner and remold it into a shape that gives more tire clearance. (I heard about this mod on another Pathfinder board.)
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