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Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier



  • A few days ago I forgot to turn off the lights of my 2000 ML 320 and the battery went dead (you'd think a Mercedes should've automatic light cut off like my 1989 Toyota camry wagon!). So I entered the wrong code a few times and it went into Cyber-land and the screen says "Wait" since yesterday morning. Even when I switch switch the engine off and on it's still says "Wait". Lately I'm not able even turn it off unless I completely switch off and remove the key!).

    I'll try your 15-minute on "on position". I hope it works! Any suggestion if it still doesn't work? Thanks. johnnye at
  • I've heard that the WAIT algorthm can be anything from a few minutes to 24 hours.

    When it happend to me I think it was about a half hour.

  • I have a 2003 ML350 with the same problem. I went to purchase the brake light switch for about $21 and brought it home for my husband to replace per the instructions I've seen posted but he can't seem to locate it in our ML350 under the brake pedal. Anyone have any thoughts where it would be located in a 2003?? or pix of it?
  • Hello Everyone new owner 99 ML320. I accidentaly pushed the LOW button on center dash and it went thru. this is conencted to what it seems a AUX FOG LIGHT SWITCH . Is this LOW switch active useable or just a indicator ligh. Thanks to all taking it in to dealership today have 30 day warranty. Thank you everyone.....
  • cneffcneff Posts: 65
    I had a 2000 and the same thing happened - they just readjusted something in the console. But I think that button is for low range of the 4 wheel drive system so get that fixed.

    There is an Aux button for fog lamps (not functioning), I think in upper left of center console. These fog lamps are actually there, inside the main headlamp assembly, but are disconnected (at least in US models) since the beam height was considered too high for fog lamps (what dealer told me).

    anyway, I got my dealer to reconnect the fog lamps, they just hook up wires as everything is there. Cost little but the difference in lighting the way down a dark country road was great.
  • amb82amb82 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 ML320 and while driving it the engine has died on three occassions. There was no engine noises and the engine light has neve come on. The first two times it happened I was able to get it restarted. However, the third time I was unable to restart it. Since then I have not driven it anywhere but it continues to start and the engine light has not come on once. Any ideas what could be causing this? I was going to have a diagnostic scan done but was told that it would only pull up codes if the engine light had been on so we did not do the scan. Any info you could give me would be helpful Thanks.
  • Hi,

    I am new with MB. Is it worth to prepaid $1845 for 52K or 48 months which ever comes first on maintenance? I figure I will be driving around 7K miles a year. Thanks.

  • cneffcneff Posts: 65
    Hi Vic,

    Congrats on your new MB.
    Take a look at this forum as it is for new MLs - there is good info on other questions you may have for your new ML
    sshowitt, "Mercedes Benz M-Class: Prices Paid & Buying Experience" #1, 30 Jan 2001 12:32 pm

    You should ask your dealer what they charge for service and when they recommend you come in - they will tell you. Your ML will also tell you when to come in.

    As for prepaying that is playing with the numbers and a comfort call. ML350 service is every 13k I think, I have a diesel and it is every 10k. If you only do 7k per year it may not be worth it to prepay.

    Good luck
  • My 2003 ML350 doesn't have a brake light switch from what I'm told and there isn't one in the spot other forums have suggested. I still don't know what the problem is but it's going in today to the MB dealer to find out. It's never anything inexpensive when I take it in so I'll let you know what they say.
  • Well, My vehicle is still at the Mercedes Benz Dealership and I took it in on Wed, Jan 4th. First of all I told them to hook it up and read the codes so that was a $100 estimate right off the bat. I was told I could wait for them to do this so I took a seat in the waiting room until the Service mgr came out to tell me the bad news. He said it was a broken wire in the speed sensor harness and IF they could repair the wire it would be $600 and if not they would have to order a new harness but they would let me know. They told me that it wouldn't be finished till the next day so I requested a loaner car and went home. The next day I got a call from the service manager telling me that they repaired the broken wire but that there was still no power so they suspected that I needed a new Control Unit to the tune of an additional $1100!! But not to worry because I wouldn't be charged for any additional labor but that they would have to order it so it wouldn't be done for another day. My estimated total at this point is $1723.11 and today I recieved another call telling me that after they installed the new Control Unit it all worked temporarily but then it all didn't again but it's probably just a pinched wire or something like that but that it would have to stay in the shop over the weekend and they would work on it again on Monday. Soooooo, I still don't know if this is actually the problem or if they are just going to continue adding additional parts and labor for several hundreds of dollars a piece until the repair is more than the value of my vehicle. They insist that they are confident that this is the problem but it just takes time to repair. I'll keep you posted.
  • debsmbdebsmb Posts: 3
    That is ridiculous! what are these dealerships doing ? it makes me want to go as fast as i can to trade mine off, i have a slk320 and this ml500 and i have gotten afraid of both of them, I had a honda accord for years and never spent the money on it like i have these two vehicles . I am being to think your just buying Mercedes just for the name not for the quality, If there not careful they will be at the bottom of the junk list along with hummer and ranger rover! **
  • Since my ride is an 86 E series, it may be apples and bowling balls but never the less I had a similar problem. Turns out it was as simple as replacing a small black box called a "CDI" in the electronic pannel on the passanger side of the motor. The part cost me $50.00 and the guy at the Mercedes shop (not dealer) said they need to be replaced every year or two or "when seasonal weather changes occur." I simply pulled the old one out, plugged the new one in and away I went with no further problems. That was about a year ago.
  • You got that right! I am considering taking my lumps with this one just to get it fixed (if they ever figure it out) and getting rid of it. I will not buy another Mercedes, like you, I thought Mercedes meant quality but that is obviously not the case. The dealer said that if you're going to own a high end vehicle you have to be prepared for the cost to maintain it! You wouldn't think you would have so many problems with a "high end" vehicle. Isn't that the reason you would buy one?
    Anyway, the next one might be a Lexus, I too once owned a Toyota and a Honda and never had these kinds of problems.
  • Initially it was thought to be a brake light switch ($21 at the dealer/parts dept) but that all changed starting with the 2003 models. Same thing with the ABS relay ($15 part), nothing is the same anymore. I think that once they figured out that people were able to fix their own with inexpensive parts they changed them!
    Anyway, thanks for your post and I will mention it to the teenager that is working on my vehicle at the dealer!
  • pkunk1pkunk1 Posts: 8
    2nd bump....I can't believe that noone on this forum has never changed their antifreeze! Well, I haven't & I want to. Any Ideas on where I can get the info/pic of the drains & how to access them?
    "I know I should be doing it, but I am really inconvienced by taking it to a dealer 180 miles away. Most of my vehicles have been a piece of cake to drain and refill. The 2000 ML320 has a radiator drain that is impossible to reach, the block drains are invisible. Anyone have a clue how to do this? Do I have to pull the bottom radiator hose?"
  • I have a '98 320 with 207K miles. We had our first serious issue this weekend. I'm wondering if anyone else has encountered the same.

    We don't use the low range often. We tried to activate it and the truck didn't seem to want to go into low range. It finally did and the check engine light came on. Then we couldn't get it out of low range. The low range inficator went off but it wouldn't shift properly. I think we finally got it back into high range but the check engine light is still on.

    Anyone else experience this?
  • fmfc1fmfc1 Posts: 4
    You can try to cycle the transfer case from low to high range a few times. if this doesn't fix the problem the transfer case motor will need to be replaced. the check engine light is on because the transfer case motor didn't respond correctly
  • Can anyone help? My wife's 2003 M-Class started this morning without a problem. However, it made a wheezing and not very loud noise after a half a mile of driving. The noise sounded like a decompressing sound of an electric motor. Then the power steering was no longer functional and the car was difficult to steer. I called a Mercedes Dealership and the service rep said that this model has tendency to “pop off” a hose in cold weather. I did indeed look under the hood and saw some fluid spray on the engine in the general area of the reservoir, but I didn’t see a loose or disconnected hose or clamp.

    Any ideas? Is there any place on line for drawing or pics of the hose schematics? Just in case I missed something when I looked.
  • chumsaechumsae Posts: 61
    ML's (not sure on the model year range) have had a recall on a hose clamp in the power steering system. This is likely your problem, and MB should fix it even if
    out of warranty. Alternatively, our 2000 ML320 just had a hose failure on a cold morning (about 20 F), and that hose cost about $50/part and $50/labor at a non-dealer shop.
  • Probably what you are hearing is the popping/snapping sound coming from the shims from the torsion bars, this is a result of dirt and rust gathered in this area, no big deal will not hurt anything but is annoying. After the car wash is goes away because the water present is acting a a very temporary lubrication.

  • You are most likely experiencing a very common ailment in the the ML's, that is a faulty CPS (crank position sensor). This is an approx. $500 round trip fix to the dealer and yes no engine lights will show but if they pull the codes it will show up...been there done that.

  • You have to pull the access panel that surrounds the brake pedal arm.... this really is about a 15 minute fix.

  • You are most likely experiencing a very common ailment in the the ML's, that is a faulty CPS (crank position sensor). This is an approx. $500 round trip fix to the dealer and yes no engine lights will show but if they pull the codes it will show up...been there done that.
  • Go to :

    Struts all the way around shipped to your door will be about $400; any good idenpendent shop should be able to install for $80 an anxle and then ake to the dealer for an aligment for about the $230; no other shop will have the right tools to due a correct alignment.

  • You received crappy advice, all four wheels are can be adjusted. You have to take the ML to a dealer for an aligment, most is not all indy shops do not have the proper tools or knowlege for this service.

  • When installing new breaks the dealers are suppose to use an anti-squeal kit which is a packet of "molly-lube" lubricant apply to the various components associated with the install. Ask the dealer if this was done and if the answer is yes, ask them where is the part listing on the invoice if it is not there, then let them do it again.

  • This is a recall item, have the dealer check your VIN# and see if the service was performed.

  • pkunk1pkunk1 Posts: 8
    I had a PS hose pop off the other day also. It was the return hose coming from the radiator connection. Loosen the clamp, shove the hose back on & retighten. Refill the PS resavoir while tutning the steering wheel back & forth to purge the air out. May take several refillings.
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