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Jeep Cherokee



  • ty so much for your reply, do you have any suggestions on what i should do.
  • Well, for lack of any better way to check, this is a suggestion. Crank the engine and let it run until it starts acting up. Shut it off. Then pull the valve cover off. Look for any valves that have really loose rocker arms. Those valves could be stuck in the open position. You can even start the engine with the valve cover off, just be careful of the hot oil. I've run engines at idle with the covers off and didn't have any problems, with the exception of one engine. It would squirt oil everywhere at idle. So just be aware of that possibility. No real hazard other than it being hot if it hits you and it will make a BIG mess. Look at the rocker arms and valve stems as the engine idles. You are looking for any valves not coming all the way up to closed. If everything seems fine there, then I'd check the valve train timing. I'm assuming you have checked the ignition timing and all the ignition wires are on correctly. To check the valve train timing, you have to completely remove everything from the front of the engine and remove the timing cover. The cover is behind the water pump and harmonic balancer. :cry: Once you pull that cover off, you should see two sprockets with a chain connecting them. The lower sprocket is the end of the crankshaft and the upper sprocket is the end of the camshaft. Roll the engine over to Top Dead Center - this is when the #1 cylinder is at the top of its compression stroke. There should be a dimple, dot or mark of some sort on the lower sprocket. When this mark is pointing straight up, then the #1 piston is at the top of its stroke. There should be a corresponding mark on the upper sprocket. If it is also pointing up at this point, then roll the engine over another full rotation. At this point, the mark on the upper sprocket should be pointing straight down while the mark on the lower sprocket should be pointing straight up. They will be "facing" each other. If they are not lined up, then the engine has jumped time and the sprockets and chain will most likely need to be replaced. An engine will jump time when these wear out.

    I hope this helps. Good luck.
  • How do you take off the pressure hoses with the plastic clip, without damaging or breaking it? I am trying to install a new radiator!!!!
  • Do these connectors have the two plastic tabs sticking out? If so, squeeze them together with your fingers, or use caution with some pliers, and gently pull it out. You may have to work it a little side-to-side to get it loose.

    If there are no plastic tabs sticking out, then go to AutoZone, or some other parts store, and buy a quick disconnect tool kit. If you know what size you need, then you'll only have to buy the one. They should be less than $5 each.
  • I would say that you need a new fuel pump and or filter, most likely the pump considering its age. -ryan
  • I have the same problem with my 98 Cherokee Sport 4.0l with 211,000 miles. I think it may just be a loose wire in the dash since the Speedometer + Tach will start working if I press the Trip Odometer but that does not always work. The Airbag light goes off as soon as they start working again. Do you have an Automatic or manual trans? I have seen some references to a speed sensor but I believe that is only for an automatic and mine is manual. Did you have any luck figuring it out on your 99? Mine just started happening today and I need the Odometer to record mileage for work.
  • Hi, I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the coolant sensor light has been coming on and off for about the past two months. It will go on for a few seconds then it will go off again and stay off for maybe a week. Then it will do it again. I haven't noticed a trend in the timing. I have had the coolant levels checked and my boyfriend replaced the sensor for me. I live an hour away from a Jeep dealership and my local mechanic refuses to look at Jeeps (says they are a nightmare to work on). I was just wondering before I took it all the way over there if anyone had any ideas as to what the problem could be. The dealership seems to think its a computer problem which could run hundreds to fix. Other than this the vehicle is running great. It had a tune-up last Nov. and just had an oil change done.
  • I have a 1999, 96k,Sport that is currently running around 210
    both when towing and by itself. I have replaced the thermostat, and water pump.

    I guess the only thing left is the radiator - Unless 210 isn't too bad?

    In the last six month I have replaced the air conditioner condenser, water pump,
    is it time for a ne vehicle? seems like $500 of something every couple months...
  • Is the coolant sensor light only supposed to alert you to low coolant? If so, I'd ignore it if you knew the coolant level is ok.
  • 210* is normal for a Jeep. I personally don't like it, but the engineers didn't ask me. I have three Jeeps - '04 Grand Cherokee, '01 Cherokee, '95 Wrangler. All of them ran 210* from the factory.
  • Mine use to run at 180 - If 210 is the norm then so be it.
    I might toss a aftermarket radiator in for next summers boat towing season!

    Thanks for the feed back!
  • My 2001 Jeep Cherokee is kicking out a 'catalyst below threshold message', and after replacing the O2 sensors, (CA emissions package type...4 O2 sensors...), the trouble persists.
    I have also replaced the fuel injectors which helped the idle roughness and fuel milage, but can't seem to find a cheap, (relatively speaking) way around the replacement of the converters.
    The dealer wants around $450 for the 'Y' pipe and converters.
    Any one have a source for new units? I don't mind welding them in the line if neccessary, but I would like to find something for less money.
    Just a cheap b*****d at heart... :)
  • I have a 98 Cherokee Sport. We have been having problems with it suddenly overheating when the A/C is running, it jumps all the way to the right on the temp gauge and the check engine light comes on. We took it to the Jeep dealership twice so far and they don't seem to know what is wrong with it. They have replaced the thermostat, water pump, spark plugs, gas kit (?), hoses and made sure the head gasket was okay.

    Do you think I need a new radiator? Have spent so much already and I love this Jeep and don't want to get rid of it! This has been the only problem we have ever had with it.

    Thanks in advance!
  • Did you replace your ABS controller yourself? I have a 97 Grand Cherokee with 84k and I need to replace mine too. The local dealer wants $1500 to do it.
  • I had a mechanic recently replace a fuel pump. I had some major hesitation problems that were hard to diagnos. I still have a very very small hesitation problem right at start up. I'm near 80k miles. It's about time to replace the O2 sensor. When a sensor is bad what are the symptoms? Plus if I replace it, how do you reset the computer. I understand at 82,500k a dash light will come one.
    Any help would be much appreciated :)
  • Hi! I'm new to this but have a problem with my 2001 Cherokee Classic. I have owned it 18 months and it has 90,000 miles. It runs like a little champ - no problems at all except the check engine light came on about 6 weeks and three trips to the mechanic and still no answer. The o2 sensor has been replaced (I have the CA emissions I discover) and a full 90K mile tune up and still the light comes on. It is always off when I leave the shop but within a few hours usually in line at a fast food (diet cokeaholic!) it comes back on. I wouldn't have thought the drive thru had anything to do with it but 3 times that's where the light reappeared - at idle with foot on brake. Mechanic laughs - openly! So now $1k into this - what's the problem? Also, should I expect the mechanic to fix the problem now without charge - well really pre-paid. Thanks for any help.
  • Is your electric fan working OK? It's the only thing that comes to mind.
  • Take it to AutoZone. They will scan the computer and pull the codes for free. At least then you might have some idea of what's going on. Ask them what they think, sometimes they will have a decent shadetree mechanic working for them. I know my local AutoZone has a really good parts person working for them. He has helped me out a lot in the past. But that's a crapshoot, you don't know. Sounds like your mechanic is just replacing the sensors one at a time, then clearing the trouble code so the light will go off.

    Write down the trouble code, could be more than one. Then sit down at your computer and do a search on each one. Several articles should pop up concerning the code/codes. If you have more than one code, look for a common thread. Good luck.
  • I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee and I have a problem with the vent door not staying on the setting that it should be. For example, when i turn defrost on, air blows through at low air speed, but if i turn the blower up, the door closes and it sounds like it closes the air off. The other settings are fine.

    Thanks for any help
  • Have a 2000 jeep cher/sport...98,000 miles on it. just had some repair work done on it few weeks ago...replaced a valve seal and a few other things, I'd have to ask my husband for sure what all they did. Trusted mechanic though. Anyhow he (my husband) is very after I drive it for a while (maybe 15 miles) and come to a stop such as a red light or stop sign, after a few seconds the oil pressure drops down to zero and the check engine light comes on. Nobody seems to know why it's doing this...not even the dealership (but that's no surprise). The light comes on and the oil pressure drops to zero at a little under the #1 on the rpm gage. Anyone have any ideas? Trying to save my husband from some frustration. If I give it gas (if in park or neutral while waiting for a light to change) and get the rpm a little past #1 the light goes off and the oil pressure goes back up. Help me somebody please! Thanks in advance! :confuse:
  • Hey all, I went back and checked through some of the older posts and I didn't see this specific thing covered, so I thought I'd ask anyway.

    I just recently had my 95 Cherokee Emissions Tested and Inspected, It took some rear brake pads and some type of regulator swtich for the reverse lights malfunctioning. The mechanic also said that part, which was pretty expensive, could have been causing the hesitation in starting as well. I would turn the key and it would just whir for a moment and then not start. Try it again and then it normally would. So I think everything is all fine and fixed and now today at lunch I couldn't get the key lock off, the steering wheel froze. Finally I got it after ten minutes of wrangling with it.

    But now my radio/clock, wipers and AC aren't working. And the day before that the ignition problem started again. Could the mechanic have not installed the part correctly, or is this something completely different? And should I make a point not to drive it until it's fixed?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have the exact same problem with my 2000 sport with 110,000. thats how i found this site. i posted my problem a few pages back. i brought mine to three different mechanics. Dont know what caused the problem, other than that water got into the oil pan and ruined motor. i had two places tell me the vehicle wasnt worth it, but i love it (and still owe money on it) so i took it to a third place, who said i have taken very good care of it and i should get it fixed. i am replacing the motor with a motor that has 57,000 miles on it and a 6 mth warranty. cost is $2,000 installed. Most likely what happened to me happened to you. a problem was misdiagnosed and not fixed in time and ruined motor. seeing that they are same age and mileage, must be a defect or something. when oil pressure drops like that it can only mean need new motor. sorry!
  • Oh that's not what I was hoping to hear. When we had it fixed there was water leaking into the oil pan. So he installed a new radiator, and all the valve seals. He said he thought there might be a cracked block, but there wasn't. He also said we had taken very good care of it. Before we had it fixed the water temp was sky high and the oil was low. Now all of that is good, however, after running it for a little while and come to a stop, i'm losing oil pressure and the check engine light comes on and the rpm goes just a tad below #1. Other than that....I love my jeep and I really don't want the problem to get worse. I don't know if it's safe to drive? My husband talked with the local jeep dealership and believe it or not...they said "oh I don't know...never worked on a 2000 before" hello! I couldn't believe my ears! They didn't even know what it should be idling at! Do you happen to know? Thanks in advance!
  • Water cannot get into the oil pan from a faulty radiator or valve guides. That happens from either a cracked block or blown head gasket. "mycpg" does not need to drive it any further. You need to go out and check the oil level. I'll bet that you'll have a "chocolate milky" mess on the dipstick. That will ruin an engine. Just because it has happened does not mean the engine is shot. I have a '78 Grand Prix sitting in the garage right now that once got a good shot of water in the oil. However, it was only driven about 15 miles before I noticed a problem. That was several years ago as the car hasn't been driven in 15 years, but I did put about 60k miles on it after that happened with no problems. The reason why the oil pressure is dropping is due to water being 'thinner' than oil. The water/oil mixture will flow through the oil filter and bearing journals more freely than oil alone, therefore hardly any pressure is built at idle.
  • rd75rd75 Posts: 10
    I am still having the coolant loss problem that I described in my previous post. The dealership that has been working on it is to the point that they have no more ideas other than to replace the block. However, I have a hard time believing there is a crack in the block without any other symptoms. Now I did notice something a few days ago. I found a very small area of water under what I think is the heater core drain hose. It is a short hose coming out of the firewall in front of heater core and points downward. I wiped it off and tasted it and it didn't really taste like antifreeze, just dirty water. My first question, is this hose a heater core drain, and secondly, could this water just be condensation or is it possibly coolant?
  • I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 115,000 miles on it. I live on the East Coast so I use the a/c in the summer. I recently took my Jeep in for servicing and had the freon re-filled. 1 week later the a/c is blowing hot air. I took it back and was told that the evaporator is leaking and needs to be replaced. Cost for the job $1,200. The service person told me that these break all of the time on Jeeps and that they were made wrong from the start. I have been reading about Jeep eavporator problems all over the internet in the past few days. Is there a recall on this part? How do we start Chrysler on the road to fixing this problem? I am wondering if the dealer popped the evaporator by putting too much freon in the lines? Sounds like an easy way to make tons of money! Any thoughts would be appreciated
  • Im having trouble with my Jeep Cherokee, when I first start it up sometimes the engine sputters and shuts down im getting less than 500RPMs once it warms up its fine. its like its not getting enough air through the Carborator am I right with this and does anyone have some more suggestions
  • Is there any water showing up in the oil??
  • That short hose sticking out of the firewall on the passenger side is the drain line for your A/C condensation. It should drip water when your A/C is being used. Refer to my post #1463 for a picture.
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