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Jeep Cherokee



  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Off road suppliers may have a special hose but those tires aren't that big. Just make sure the new lines never touch anything that moves, especially when turning. The stock hoses should be OK if installed in proper orientation.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    First thing to check is engine coolant temperature sensor unhooked or bad. Check wires for break or disconnect. If OK, test sensor or replace.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Check out a helper spring. Here's one place...

    I'm sure there are other brands. These do not affect ride height; only work when vehicle is loaded.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Yes. I believe you can use Dexron II, Dexron III or Mercon ATF. Select-trac - 3 pints. Command-trac 2.2 pints.

    Poured out... sounds serious. Did you have any service to it recently. Could be a seal tear or look closely for a case crack.

    Were you off road???? ;)
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I've had something similar going on with mine lately. My code scanner told me it was a small evaporative emissions system leak, it's the fuel vapor management system. Turned out to be a 4" section of rubber hose that had a crack in it. I had it fixed in 15 minutes and cost me under $5.

    Your's could be just as simple. But you do need to drive it more often and/or greater distances.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    My nephew's 2000 Grand Cherokee had those exact same codes pop up. Turned out to be a thermostat that was stuck wide open. $10 for a new t-stat and silicon gasket and 45 minutes later it was fixed.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Is it injected or carburated??? If it's injected, I'd look at the Idle Air Control valve, it's mounted on the side of the throttle body. You can test it by cranking the engine, lightly cracking the throttle linkage open by hand revving the engine a little and holding it at a steady rpm. Then disconnect the IAC plug. Once it is disconnected, very slowly try to bring the engine back down to a near normal idle by hand. If it still cycles back and forth, then the IAC is probably working properly. However, if you can get it to idle by holding the throttle slightly open, then the IAC should be cleaned or replaced.

    I'm assuming you have checked for vacuum leaks????? If not, you need to verify that you don't have any, and fix them if you do.
  • ngaron1ngaron1 Posts: 3
    Thanks. I'll check the thermostat.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Posts: 148
    Where is this hose located and I will take a look. Thanks for the info.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Locate the EVAP system purge valve, it's attached to the firewall between the valve cover and heater core, it'll have two hard plastic lines running to it. Trace the top line along the firewall towards the brake booster. It will turn and head down the firewall just to the left of the booster. About 1' down, it will join a steel line. Where the two join is the rubber hose section. However, there are little rubber hose sections all over the EVAP system.

    I was able to find my leak by slightly pressurizing the EVAP system, that includes the fuel tank!!!! There is a tag on the system that says to use no more than 1psi regulated air pressure! This is how I rigged up an airline for mine. First I used the blowgun attachment and connected a section of small diameter hose to it with duct tape. Then a put a cone adapter on the end of the hose, like one you might use to fill an air raft or pool toy. I lightly pushed the cone adapter into the top line at the purge valve. The regulator on my compressor was set so that it would shut off when I placed my finger over the line. I said to lightly push the adapter into the top line so that if too much pressure is built up, hopefully it would pop out before fuel started spraying everywhere!!! :surprise:

    Then I started tracing the lines, listening for hissing and sniffing for gasoline. Maybe you'll get as lucky as I did and this will fix your problem.
  • bls1bls1 Posts: 4
    I just replaced my trasmission gasket and filter.When I went to take the pan off I used a hammer and screwdriver and I put a dent (burr) on the housing(where the pan bolts to).I went ahead and put the pan on and it's not leaking.Is this a problem in the future?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    It could be a problem. As the transmission body and pan go through their heating/cooling cycles, I'm almost positive they will expand/contract at different rates as I'm sure the tranny body is aluminum while the pan is stamped steel, I could be wrong though. That means any burr on either surface COULD slowly cut the gasket to the point where it will start to leak. My advice at this point is to just keep an eye on it, it may not ever leak. But since you've already put in back on, no since in taking it off if it's not leaking now.
  • Hi Clocke
    HAve you made any progress on your freeze plug problem? I also have a 1998 CHerokee 4L. Leak - replaced freeze plugs - a few days go by - and leaking again!
  • oldtimer1oldtimer1 Posts: 2
    Thank you for the reply, Dancerman. I,also, feel the tires are not THAT much over sized, but they apparantly are, as I have tried every position for the brake lines possible, and the lines still rub, either way, at 3/4 full turn. I'll take your advice and check off road suppliers for special hoses.
  • chrispagchrispag Posts: 2
    what is the difference between the command-trac and selec-trac 4wd systems? does one work better than the other?
  • We just purchased a used 1993 Cherokee with 162K miles. It had been sitting for about a year, but was run every day before that. The oil had recently been changed and they charged up the battery before we took the car. On the way home we noticed a loud ticking from the engine after it really heated up well. Originally I thought they might have left some oil out, but it checked full and clean. I was teaching my son to drive the stick when it started having trouble starting after he inevitably stalled it a couple of times. Need less to say it finally quit for good just down the street from our house.

    So far I have charged the battery, then replaced it. I recrimped the battery cable and have checked the voltage at the battery, fuse box, and alternator. It all looks fine. The car does not want to turn over at all. The battery cable wire get really hot when we try.

    What should we look at next. Any advise/diagnosis would be greatly appreciated.

  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Here's some info from

    "The transfer cases used are all chain driven with aluminum housings. NP stands for "New Process" which is the brand, if you will. The newer ones are NV instead which stands for "New Venture". It is the same transfer case just a different name.

    NP207 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.61:1 ratio low range - used 84-87
    NP231 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2H - 4H - N - 4L - used 87-01
    NP228/NP229 - "Selec-Trac" - 4Hi(full-time) - N - 4Lo (part-time) - used 84-87
    NP242 - "Selec-Trac" part-time OR full-time - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2wd - 4part-time - 4full-time - N - 4LO - used 87-01"

    If you want to use 4WD on dry hard surfaces, I think you want Select-Trac. You probably can find more info on the each at that site.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    When you hit the starter, does it make any noise at all??? Can you physically turn the motor over by hand?? What was the oil pressure running prior to this?

    Just off the top, I'd look at either a jambed up/locked up starter motor or a locked up engine. You should be able to put a socket and rachet wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt and rotate the engine fairly easily. The harmonic balancer is the large belt pulley on the bottom of the engine.
  • truaxmjtruaxmj Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport 4X4 and the AC stopped working. It blows luke warm air. I checked all the fuses and they are good. I am told the next logical step is to recharge it with a can of R-134a. Here's my problem. I don't know a whole lot about vehicles. I have the can to recharge with but I can't locate the exact spot where it goes. Can anyone tell me where the service port is and what it looks like? Thanks.
  • Well the saga continues. After replacing the battery and rewiring the wires at the terminal we finally have the car running. Not running well, but running. The starter seems ok, the alternator is putting out juice. The car is not over heating. It just runs really bad. We have replaced the spark plugs, new cap, new rotor. It is running very bad when it heats up. The engine still makes a lot of clacking noise from the rockers. The oil light comes on intermittantly ... It's off during idle, then comes on when we shift into 1st gear. I have given up on the home mechanic portion and taken to an expert. I'm still interested in hearing ideas, so that the shop doesn't take all of my money.

  • bls1bls1 Posts: 4
    My 95 Cherokee smokes when it is first runnning then it stops.What is the cause of that?
  • Chapter 4: We had the car towed to the mechanic. Yep - blown #2 cylinder. Needs a new engine. Next question is we are $2000 USD into this adventure. Do we put a new engine into it or get out now and sell it for parts? What do you think we could get for a 1993 Jeep Cherokee with a blown engine? What and where can I get the best price on a new/used engine?

  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Probably worn valve stem guides/seals. It's not a terribly expensive job to have done. If the shop uses compressed air to hold each valve in place, then all they have to remove is the valve cover, rocker arms and valve springs.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I don't know, what condition is the Jeep in? Is it worth it to you to spend another $2,000 on it??? Professionally rebuilt engines can be purchased in the $1,500 and under range.

    If the rest of the Jeep were in really good shape, I'd say go for it. But then I'm a Jeep nut, and I'd rebuild and replace the engine myself. And I'd also know the condition of the tranny and t-case. There are too many variables for me to tell you what to do.

    If the rest of the Jeep is in good shape, and depending on the mileage and what other goodies are on it, someone would give you $750 to $1,000 for parts or to build it up as a trail rig. If it's beat all to heck and has a ton of miles on it, then you might be stuck.

    Good luck.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Before you try this... you can visually check the charge by looking at through the sight glass (I believe it's below the compressor). With engine warm, turn A/C on, adjust to coldest setting and fan on highest speed. Keep doors open so A/C system doesn't cycle on/off. Let run a few minutes making sure the compressor stays engaged. Look in the sight glass. If refrigerant looks foamy or has bubbles, it is low. Also, at the compressor, the larger line should be cool and the smaller line should be warm. I'll go look at my '99 to find the charge port, may be same as '01. Keep in mind that if you need to add refrigerant, there is a leak that will need repair.
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    hi all, I have a 99 Limited that i bought 4 years ago with 29k on it....this truck is great. just wanted to share something to save someone a couple bucks. I lost my high speed on my blower and went searching for the high speed relay....not under i gave up 4 awhile then found it after removing the was staring me in the face. when i went to pull it out the high speed kicked in! it was a loose connection that had been there the whole time i've had the car as i would loose the high speed from time to time. check this before you run out and buy the relay first....all the harsh bumps must have an effect after awhile...
  • bugs7bugs7 Posts: 6
    Would that also hold for the following? Drive car for awhile. Stop to get gas. Shut off engine. Attemt to restart and nothing happens. No cranking, no selenoid noise, nothing. Waint 10 to 15 minutes and then restarts. Help?
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    What year is your Jeep?
  • We are now down to either getting our money back from the woman we bought it
    from. (slim chance) or rebuilding the engine in my garage. Does anyone have
    a REALLY good book or manual for rebuilding the engine. It's an inline 6.
    It's been a long time 20+ years since I worked tore down an engine.

  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Good news for you is Jeep I6 is one of the few engines left that are "old technology". If you have rebuilt engines in the past this should be a breeze. I have a Haynes repair manual that does a decent job covering the basic rebuild work. I'm sure there are others. Have you considered buying a remanufactured long or short block instead? It will save you a bunch of time and will have a warranty ( $1500).
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