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Jeep Cherokee



  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    You switch has gone bad. It's not the switch on the dashboard, but the one that switches the headlights from low to high beam. It's mounted on the side of the steering column under the dash. I'm sorry that I can't tell you exactly where. If you lay down in the floorboard and look up under the dash, work the level and also listen for a clicking sound. Once you find that, you have found the switch. Fairly cheap and easy part to replace.

    In you post, however, you didn't say WHICH switch you had to hold.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I wish you all the luck since I can't recommend a mechanic for you. This is one of those things I'd have to check out for myself.
  • thepdmmthepdmm Posts: 82
    My lower radiator tube was leaking from what looked like the lower end were the tube meets the water pump.. now I replaced the tube and it still seems to leak (when the engine shuts down and pressure builds). I am pretty sure I clammed down the screw clamp pretty tight (but I am not saying it can't be tighter) but before I clamp it down tighter, is there any known problems with the receiving end of that seal cracking? could I needlessly be tightening this hose clamp?

    any suggestions and comments are asked. please!.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    It's most likely the pump seal that's leaking and not the hose.
  • atolo28atolo28 Posts: 1
    My driver side speaker is no longer working. I took it to Best Buy and they told me that this is a very common problem for jeep cherokee owners. They told me that the wiring need to be replaced and they said that this problem can also lead to problems with my automatic windows. Which in my case me back-seat passenger side window does not roll down from my driver side control panel. Does anyone have any idea what I should do or has anyone else had this kind of problem before.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I don't think I'd trust Best Buy when it comes to diagnosis of your problem. It's not difficult to remove the door panel and investigate the speaker. Maybe a wire came loose. While you are in there you can also test the window switch. If you not able to do this yourself... take it to a Jeep dealer for qualified repair.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Yep, the speaker in my driver door has quit as well. If I open the door and wiggle the wiring tube, it kinda looks like an accordian, the speaker will cut in and out. I bet your window problem is the same.

    BTW: I have an '01.
  • i had a similar issue and it turned out that the problem wasnt in the steering at all but in the brake pads. something about them being composed of too much metal?? just a suggestion bc the pads rub the calipers differently when you're turning.
  • jolyshjolysh Posts: 1
    Sometimes my right blinker blinks very fast. I've read that this could be because the wrong bulb is being used. But sometimes it blinks normally, and sometimes, while the blinker is on for the duration of a right turn, it blinks fast, then normal, then fast, etc. Is very annoying. Could this still be due to a wrong sized bulb? Your help is appreciated.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Could be the wrong bulb. But I'm thinking you probably have a short. Blinkers work off resistance. If you have the wrong bulb, or burnt out bulb, the resistance in the circuit changes causing the blinker to change speed. Since it doesn't blink at the same rate all the time, look for a loose bulb or grounding wire. I have the same problem with the turn signals on my Gator at work.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    You know, texan has a good point, post #2018.

    If the brake pads are rattling, and I've had several do it over the years, checking it is very simple. Drive down a rough section of street that causes the rattling you describe. While driving, use your left foot and lightly depress the brake pedal just enough to feel the drag. If it is the brake pads, the rattling should stop while your foot is on the brake pedal. This is very common and hurts absolutely nothing.
  • I purchased a used 93 Cherokee 2D in February from a friend's garage. Last week after topping off the tank and adding air in the tires I got on the road and after a short distance and a speed change from 55 to 40 my Jeep began to to violently shake in the steering column and came up through the steering wheel. Braking really didn't effect the shaking. My friend's garage rebuilt the front axle and I can't for the life of me think what it is, as there's a host of things, u-joint, tie rod, tires (since it started after I filled them, although adjust the PSI didn't stop the problem). Anyone ever have this experience?
  • I just took my 2000 Jeep Cherokee (67k) in for a new muffler, and the mechanic said I need to have my axle joints and steering damper replaced, too. The axle joints are the same thing as the two CV joints, right? The guy quoted me about $250 each which seems reasonable. As for the steering damper, that prevents hard vibrations on the highways, right? How does that differ from the shocks and struts? Is $200 a reasonable price for it?
  • coechocoecho Posts: 4
    I've got a 96 4x4 Cherokee Sport and this has happened to me on two separate occasions. The first time a shop put a shock absorber on the front axle which fixed the problem. The second time which was years later a shop told me the frame bolts were loose. They supposedly tightened them and the problem went away and has not returned. I've seen this problem talked about on a few occasions. I think I've seen it referred to as the "Death Wobble". Good Luck
  • coechocoecho Posts: 4
    I've got a 96 Jeep Cherokee where the power door locks don't usually unlock the front passenger and two rear doors. I can hear the solenoids or whatever actually unlocks the doors firing when I hit the switch but it's as if they're weak or gummed up. For I then have to pretty forcibly work the locks back and forth to manually unlock the doors. The driver door works fine. My next step is to get inside the doors and investigate but I'm hoping someone has some advice to help me out before that.
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    for what it is worth I have had this speaker problem in the drivers door twice. The first time it happened I went to the dealer under warranty and the mechanic seemed to know what it was before he looked at it. he said to the service writer " I'll bet its that harness problem we have on cherokee's" and fixed it in 20 mins...ditto for the second time. My speaker also cut in and out when openeing and closing the door as yours did. recently I replaced my front speakers myself and noticed wire had been spliced in.....maybe the factory harness' is to short causing problems?
  • coecho-

    Prior to placing a shock absorber on the front axle and then tightening the frame bolts did the shop ever mention tie rods or u joints or any other areas that could be the cause?


  • the1426the1426 Posts: 11
    I don't have the solution, but my 95 Cherokee has the same problem on the rear passenger doors only. I also find that the problem seems to get worse in cold weather.
  • coechocoecho Posts: 4
    No I can't say that the shops mentioned any of those items. Nor have I had to have any of them replaced up until a year ago (one tie rod end) which is four years after the frame bolts were tightened. On other forums I've seen those items mentioned but none that offered a concrete answer.
    Good Luck
  • coechocoecho Posts: 4
    I know what your saying. I live in Minnesota so in the winter you can forget about it. This symptom leads me to believe that the (solenoids?) are either dirty or gummed up which could cause them to become stiffer in cold temperatures. But why then does the drivers door work just fine? It is the most commonly used door and lock so maybe it's not the solenoids maybe it's the whole linkage system that needs some grease. HMMM
    Thanks for the response.
  • the1426the1426 Posts: 11
    I live in Minnesota too. Funny. Oh well, at least we've got another 3 months before winter sets in again. Maybe one of these days I'll take apart one of the rear doors and see if I can figure if out. If I do I'll be sure to post it here.
  • montehmonteh Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 1997 Jeep driver door speaker. It seems the connection is lost between the rubber boot between the door and the speaker. I put a new wire from that location to the door and corrected the problem.
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    anybody know how to remove the handle on the automatic shift lever? I need to remove my center console...TY in advance...
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    its a 99 cherokee by the way
  • rherndonrherndon Posts: 1
    For the last year I have been dealing with an ongoing problem with my above referenced vehicle. I am traveling down the road or freeway and suddenly the car will act like it might cut off, engine starts sputtering, and the check engine light comes on. The car starts this violent jerking like it might cut out at any time. Sometimes the engine feels like it is racing. Frequently when I come to a stop it will just die and I have to put in Park and start again. This problem is very intermittent. I can go weeks with the car acting just fine. I have had this car in the shop for the same problem probably close to 10 times and noone can seem to find the problem. The dianostics never seem to pinpoint the exact problem. Just within the last month the diagnostic revealed a factory upgrade re-flash of the computer software was needed. I took it to a dealer and had the upgrade performed and less than 2 weeks later, the car started the same difficulty. It really feels like perhaps the computer is not recognizing I am giving the car fuel or it thinks it is not getting enough fuel. Anyone else experience this difficulty?
  • jeepgirl3jeepgirl3 Posts: 10
    I have a 94 Cherokee Sport (225000 miles on it) and have had the Death Rattle several times over the years. For my Jeep, the problem has been uneven wear of the tires due to a couple of out-of-round rims. Each time, getting the tires balanced and rotated, or getting new tires, if the old ones are too worn to balance, has completely solved the problem. I have Cooper tires on it now and I think they are the best I have had, yet.

    Good Luck:)
  • zacman411zacman411 Posts: 2
    I'm trying to fine chrome door handles,chrome rear hatch handle, & chrome gas fuel door cover. Help!!!
  • with 117,000 miles. For only 800 bucks, so I'm pleased. Former boss of mine had to move abruptly.

    Has new alternator, starter, battery, runs fine, but seems to need new brakes and also needs new shocks.

    Any recommendations as to what I should get done to it, preventatively? It's in great shape, and I'm hoping it lasts about three years with no major repairs. Any recommendations as to what I should do at a minimum?? I havent' bought the hilton's yet...can anybody in Tampa recommend a mechanic? I've been to the jeep dealership by the stadium and they just seem like shysters to me.

    I really appreciate it. Charley
  • My headlights won't work at all. I've changed both bulbs, had the switch replaced and tried pulling the codes to find the problem to no avail. When I turn on the headlights the dash lights for the blinkers and the brights come on but the headlights and front blinkers do nothing. Help!!! :cry:
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Other than brakes and shocks, sounds like all the high maintenance items have been taken care of already. Check your front wheel hubs, they could be going, but then again they may be fine. Other than that, I'd suggest replacing all the fluids.
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