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Jeep Cherokee



  • Ok so i have a 96 grand cherokee that i recently had to replace its ac pump shortly after doing that i noticed i had two new problems one being that my heater will blow hot air for about 5 min. then blows nothing but cold air, the other problem I have is my new part makes a god awefull whistle what could be the cause of these problems and how would i go about correcting them.
  • I have a 1985 Jeep that i recently bought my problem is this. When i'm driving and i hit a pothole going 55 mph or faster the entire engine shakes, now its not just minor movement my entire front end shakes almost violently, At first i thought it was my struts, but after changing the struts it happened again. The thing runs beautifully considering the year, but i don't want my engine dropping out eventually. Someone told me that it could possibly be my motor mounts or even my cv half shaft. I'm at a loss now because i don't want to spent thousands changing everything out and still not fixing the problem. If anyone knows or has a solution to my problem i would greatly appreciate it. I have worked non stop for 2 days trying to figure this out but i'm running out of funds and cigarettes please HELP!!!!
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Hi Papa, I had this same problem on my 99 cherokee. its newer but the technology is the same. 50-60 mph on the highway, hit a bump and she jumps up and down so bad you sometimes have to pull over to calm it down. The problem was a leaking steering damper. $90 part from dealer, half hour labor to put it in. i never tried to do the job myself, might be an easy one. If you look Underneath your Cherokee, there will be a thing that looks like a horizontal shock absorber (because thats what it is) running in between your two wheels. It helps keep the jeep in control. If it looks to be leaking, chances are thats your problem.
  • karpindurkarpindur Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 Sport with 140,000 miles, and have used Bosch Platinum since it hit 25,000 with no problem. Every time I buy them, or ask a mechanic, they tell me not to use them however, and to stick with Champion or Mopar..Ignoring them has caused no problems but it has always bugged me. If anyone knows why the "experts" insist on OEM type plugs I would like to hear it.
  • karpindurkarpindur Posts: 11
    Just saw your post and realize its two years too late, but here is what I have: I had the same issue with my 01 Cherokee at 130,000 miles. Oil pressure would drop to zero and I would pull off the road and kill the engine, wait a minute and then restart, and it would go back up. It finally went to zero and stayed there at a time when I had no choice but to keep driving. The engine survived just fine, which led me to believe there was an error with gage. After doing some research, I bought a new oil pressure sending (sensor) unit and went to replace it. It is mounted on top of the oil filter and very easy to get to. When I unplugged the wire harness it popped off under pressure which should not happen. The male and female ends of the plugs were also full of oil. Looking closely at the sensor end of the plug I found a hairline crack that explains both issues. When I cleaned the ends and plugged it back in the pressure reading was fine, and has been so every since. The oil leak has either stopped or is contained within the plug. The $50 sending unit now resides in my tool box. By the way, Mobil One has proved itself in this engine as it runs like the day I bought it...Which happens to be the same day I had the OEM oil removed and replaced with Mobil One. ;)
  • karpindurkarpindur Posts: 11
    There is an open, four prong plug hanging near the fire wall just behind the tranny dip stick on my '01 4.0 Cherokee Sport. I was told at Advance Auto that it is for connecting to diagnostics, but I have never confirmed that through other sources. Seems odd that the gauge would go down after the transmission work doesn't it?
  • karpindurkarpindur Posts: 11
    I had a similar problem that turned out to be, I hope, a cracked plug of the Oil Sender (sensor). I took the plug apart, cleaned it, plugged it back together, and have been driving it every since with good and stable pressure. As such, I would really like to know how your situation played out and an update would be sincerely appreciated. :confuse:
  • jeepster15jeepster15 Posts: 4
    I have the same issue. However, I can't find the location of the oil pressure sender. Where's it located on the engine block??? :confuse:
  • My 1990 Cherokee Laredo won't go into 4WD. I pull the 4WD lever up and it feels like it works but the 4WD doesn't engage. I've heard the the vacum actuator could be bad, a leak in the vacum line, the lever needs adjusting, or something else. Can anyone give me some imput. I had a 1987 Cherokee "Cherokee Chief" and never had a problem with the 4WD. Is the actuator easy to replace?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    right by the oil filter
  • animal69animal69 Posts: 1
    Try checking the u-joints/cv joint on the drive shafts, front and rear. I had similar problem, except the vibration in the steering wheel, my rear u-joint on the rear drive shaft went bad, and would cause a lot of vibration under heavy load. I replaced it and that fixed the problem.
  • snooky57snooky57 Posts: 1
    I have a sensor in the back lift door I need to unplug that goes to the washer . I need to know how to unplug it and which one it is. Anybody HELP
  • k1yakk1yak Posts: 1
    My 99 Cherokee power locks are running themselves. you close the door and they just start clicking on and off, then stop, then randomly do it over & over until the battery is dead. I have to take the fuse out, then I lose all of my instruments & interior lts., which are apparently on the same fuse. When this started happening, the keychain button also quit working the doors. Any ideas?
  • jeepboyjeepboy Posts: 1
    i have a 1999 jeep cherokee sport with an HO inline 6. ive researched and looked everywhere on the vehicle and cant figure out what kind of transmission is in it. Its four wheel drive automatic. thats all i know about it. some help would be great.
  • mferrismferris Posts: 1
    ive replaced the thermastat water pump and flushed the radiator 2 times it still overheats ive also changed the drivebelt any suggestions HELP
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    even thogh you flushed rad it prob is part pluged have it ever been changed?

    take to rad shop and see if they can check flow rate but new rad is prob cheaper

    also check the fan clutch when engine is hot and you shut off motor you should feel drage when you turn the fan by hand (be carefull as the rad will be hot ) when you try this.
  • the air will only come out of the defrost vents when you change the control to any position. Wife's jeep so please help me.
  • Your vacuum line under the the hood rotted off. All your duct systems are controlled by vacuum from the engine. Open the hood and look around the firewall on the passenger side of the car, ( I Believe that is where it is, I'm not driving my Jeep today and I'm at work). You will find that the hose has most likely come off. If its in good shape, you can just cut off the rotted piece and stick it back on, if its in bad shape, just replace the whole hose. Just look around the firewall there, you'll see where it came off. Please let me know if this works or not.
  • mjgirardmjgirard Posts: 10
    I had the same problem last year and replaced the cruise control vacuum hose which the earlier reply mentioned. I ran a new line from the firewall to the cruise control and underneath the battery to the blatter underneath the bumper and now it works great.

    Good luck, it really is an easy job.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    i've just read your post about the heater problem with your's july now,and hope you found a solution before now..if not,heres what i suggest..
    ..if you have a/c,there is a vacum operated water valve connected in with the heater hoses..this shuts off the flow of water to the heater core..try moving this valve manually,to see if it;s frozen/rusted into position..try applying some vacum to the digaphram,and seeing if that makes it can test weather you are getting vacum by running the engine,and putting the heater controls either on heat,or air condition,then pulling thee line to the valveone or the other (probably a/c) will give your valve vacum..
    ..a simple ,and probably cheaper fix would be a trip to the hardware store,and getting a simple water valve.i recomend a ball valve,in either a 5/8,or 3/4 size ,fitted with hose barbs..this will allow you to turn on and off the water to the heater core
    ..usually,you will only need to open this valve when cold weather comes,then turn it off when the heat of summer comes to keep the engine heat out of the interior..
    ..if your heating controls are not working,check your main vacum line for your controls..usually when age has dried out the rubber line..cut it back only as mutch as you need,as this will give you a few more opportunities to fix it without having to replace the entire line....
    sorry for the late response,but i hope this helps! :shades:
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    i agree with the other poster,,your vacum control isn't getting any vacum..
    as a safety setting,all heater controls sold in the u.s ,and operated by vacum must go to defrost ,because that's the setting that you need if all else fails(witch it has)
    :lemon: ..find the vacum line coming from the firewall going to the engine manifold,or a vacum terminal block,and see if it has either fallen off(witch will also give you a vacum leak,making the engine run lean-poor idle,ect),and trim it back just enough to where it's not as dried out,and not cracked/broken..while there,check all your vacum connections for leaks..
    ..for serious vacum leaks,i used to use a foaming engine cleaner..spray foam around where you suspected leak is,and start the engine..the foam starts disapearing where the vacum leak is!!..the bonus is where you clean some of the filth from the engine compartment!..i've found bad carberator gaskets,and manifold leaks that way..good luck! :)
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    recently aquired this abandoned project with a TON of spare parts,thinking i should be able to glue it back together-despite this being my first jeep..i was mistaken..
    --despite a great body,especially for a 90,and the engine compartment looking like at least SOME regular maintenence had been done,it has become a lawn ornament,a driveway sculpture,rather than a functioning mode of transport..
    ..i've discovered the engine -or "power control module",located inside,next to the radio and heater controls,and the gas pedal-is missing!!..two trunk leads,with two large connectors are lying on the floor,(60 pin,and 40-some pins)..
    while talking to the man i got it from,my guess was it needed a new fuel pump,witch i've done before,along with some fairly serious wiring,but some people i've talked to say this module has to be specific to this car-right down to the serial number,and the want several hundred dollars for a module..
    as i've never heard this thing run,and have no idea how mutch more would be involved in breathing life back into this thing-besides the fuel pump..
    my one hope is the fella i got it from might find the module in the barn,witch i still hope might happen..
    other than that,what are the chances of getting one from the bone yard that would work??
    or am i spinning around the bowl,and down the hole??
    thanks for any advice. :sick:
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    i've got the body and service manuals from chrystler-but you need a degree in engineering to figure it out..for a 1990 cherokee
    what i could figure out was if the origional jacks are there for the origional speakers,(a) is in+, and (B) is out-..mebee that will help,short of a volt/ohmm meter.. ;)
  • I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee w/ 85K miles that recently began having problems with the front end shaking out of control. At first the pulsations began while I was braking from 60 to 50mph, but then progressed to uncontrollable shaking (the car literally felt like it was going to fall apart).

    I first took the Jeep in and had the rotors grinded, but then 2 days later the uncontrollable shaking happened again when I wasn't even braking. I took it in again, to a new shop, and had the front brakes and rotors replaced. The mechanic also fixed the U-joint in the front right axle thinking that this could also be causing the problem. Unfortunately, neither of these repairs solved the problem. The Jeep still shakes uncontrollably at high speeds or after going over a bump in the road. The mechanic is out of suggestions and I'm having the Jeep transferred to a body shop to have it checked out.

    If anyone has any suggestions as to what is causing the problem or how to fix it, I would really appreciate it.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    from reading the forum here,this is a regular problem..two things to check..u-joints in the front driveshaft,and the steering dampner-the shock absorber-lookin-thing on the steering.linkage...also,maybe rotate the tires front to back,as you may have "cupped" the tires when it was shaking...good luck!!
  • I had a similar problem. In my case, I needed to replace both front wheel bearings. Mine crapped out about 100K and got real bad by 120K. Just another item to check into.
  • I have the same problem. did you ever figure it out?
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    in your other post,you said"

    I had a similar problem. In my case, I needed to replace both front wheel bearings. Mine crapped out about 100K and got real bad by 120K. Just another item to check into."
    did fixing the wheel bearings-both sides fix the shaking?? :confuse:
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    forgot what i said in that post,but,no-i still don't have a body key for my cherokee..ny main problem seems to go back to the power command module-the computer just above the gas pedal..mine is missing,and from what i find here,it's a royal pain to get one that matches and works..
    sometimes i long for the old days when you put in plugs,points,cap,rotor,a fresh air filter,change the oil,and was set for another season...computers are better-but only while they work..when you've got to start reprograming them,you've gone from be=ing a knuckle-bustin-grease monkey to a data entry person..the two aren't always harmonious.. :shades:
  • jeepboy96jeepboy96 Posts: 1
    Hi i have just bought a standard jeep cherokee bull bar for my jeep on a 96 plate and im not mecanicly minded and wondered if any of you guys could tell me how to fit it Please and what size bolts i would need please. diagram would be nice thank you very much John :confuse:
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