Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Cherokee



  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I'm not aware of any way to do that on an OBD-II vehicle, if I'm wrong them someone correct me. I know you could do that on the older OBD-I vehicles. The code scanners at AutoZone won't detect ABS problems anyway. I've got one of the Actron scanners that AutoZone sells. I think it's the same one they use. Mine will not pick up ABS codes. Sometimes I wish that I had laid out the cash for one of the more complete scanners. My scanner has saved me well over the $150 price tag in repairs. But, like I said above, I wish I had purchased one of the more complete scanners. Seems like I've seen those priced in the $400 range.

    Are you a big fan of ABS??? Living in Alaska you could be. Living in the midwest, I'm not a big fan. Of course I don't drive on snow/ice very often. If it were mine, I'd be tempted to disconnect the ABS module and wait for the light to burn out. Or you could pull the instrument cluster and pull the bulb out.
  • I recently purchased an '01 Cherokee Sport, automatic, 4x4. It didn't have factory cruise. The dealer, in good faith, indicated I could install either an aftermarket cruise or for mo' money a factory cruise. Well, some phone calls indicate MOPAR doesn't make the kits anymore, and also raised questions about compatibility issues re: down loading computer codes, etc.

    So: Does anybody have any experience with this? What parts do I need? I've heard a wiring harness, a servo/control unit, and a steering wheel with the buttons installed.

    If this won't work, what is the best aftermarket cruise that looks as close to factory as possible?

    Scott :confuse:
  • Dave (if that is your name)
    My dealers here in Albuquerque are telling me I can't get OEM parts to install a cruise controal in my recently purchased '01 Sport.

    How did you get the parts????

    Scott MacKie
  • jobbagyjobbagy Posts: 1
    my 1989 jeep is running about 15 degrees too hot, i"ve changed the thermostat,
    water pump seems to be ok, radiator seems to be ok. could the a/c condensor
    be the problem if it is old and plugged up on the surface with bugs,debris....

    4.0 V-6 4x4
  • Bugs plugging up the condensor could be the problem.
  • Can't open the lift gate with the remote. I read somewhere you can use the key. Where????? If not, what could the problem be and how much might it cost to get it repaired. I can't fix the brake lights without opening the darn lift gate.
  • Wow, that was fast reply. OK, I'm a girl, what is the condensor, where is it, can I just fix this myself???
  • i have a 87 with the 4.0 six and it runs great for the first two or three mins then it runs ruff and pops threw the throttle body, and if you give it gas then it dies, and will not run right again until the following morning. I have replaced the o2 censor and the throttle postioning censor, and tried a different ecu and distributor still no change wondering if anyone out there might know what the problem might be?
  • The condensor is what you see when you look through the grill, it looks just like a radiator. As air enters the grill, it first passes through the A/C condensor (that is if the vehicle has A/C) then through the radiator. If the condensor is plugged up with bugs or dirt, then the radiator doesn't get a sufficient amount of air to operate properly.

    You can try using a water hose to flush the debris out. Infact, you might not even have to remove the grill - which is very easy to do, four screws across the top and the grill tilts out. Standard household water pressure shouldn't be strong enough to damage anything, so go ahead and really flush it out. If that doesn't work, then remove the grill and use a bristled brush to clean it out. Using the brush and lots of water, run the brush up and down along the direction of the fins on the condensor. Be somewhat careful when doing this as the fins are very thin aluminum and are fairly easy to bend. If you do happen to bend some, don't panic, they can be straightened out with some patience. It takes a considerable hit to rupture the condensor. However, every bent fin does help to restrict airflow.

    If you don't have access to outside water at your house, you can use the coin operated car wash. Set it to rinse so all you are spraying is water. You do need to be careful if you go this route as a pressure sprayer will bend the fins and/or damage the condensor. I wouldn't get the tip of the sprayer closer than 1.5' to 2'.

    I hope this helps! :D
  • Before you go any further changing sensors and looking at the electronics, have you verified that there are no mechanical problems? Sounds to me like it may have jumped time. Or possibly one or more valves are sticking in the open position once they get hot.
  • ty so much for your reply, do you have any suggestions on what i should do.
  • Well, for lack of any better way to check, this is a suggestion. Crank the engine and let it run until it starts acting up. Shut it off. Then pull the valve cover off. Look for any valves that have really loose rocker arms. Those valves could be stuck in the open position. You can even start the engine with the valve cover off, just be careful of the hot oil. I've run engines at idle with the covers off and didn't have any problems, with the exception of one engine. It would squirt oil everywhere at idle. So just be aware of that possibility. No real hazard other than it being hot if it hits you and it will make a BIG mess. Look at the rocker arms and valve stems as the engine idles. You are looking for any valves not coming all the way up to closed. If everything seems fine there, then I'd check the valve train timing. I'm assuming you have checked the ignition timing and all the ignition wires are on correctly. To check the valve train timing, you have to completely remove everything from the front of the engine and remove the timing cover. The cover is behind the water pump and harmonic balancer. :cry: Once you pull that cover off, you should see two sprockets with a chain connecting them. The lower sprocket is the end of the crankshaft and the upper sprocket is the end of the camshaft. Roll the engine over to Top Dead Center - this is when the #1 cylinder is at the top of its compression stroke. There should be a dimple, dot or mark of some sort on the lower sprocket. When this mark is pointing straight up, then the #1 piston is at the top of its stroke. There should be a corresponding mark on the upper sprocket. If it is also pointing up at this point, then roll the engine over another full rotation. At this point, the mark on the upper sprocket should be pointing straight down while the mark on the lower sprocket should be pointing straight up. They will be "facing" each other. If they are not lined up, then the engine has jumped time and the sprockets and chain will most likely need to be replaced. An engine will jump time when these wear out.

    I hope this helps. Good luck.
  • How do you take off the pressure hoses with the plastic clip, without damaging or breaking it? I am trying to install a new radiator!!!!
  • Do these connectors have the two plastic tabs sticking out? If so, squeeze them together with your fingers, or use caution with some pliers, and gently pull it out. You may have to work it a little side-to-side to get it loose.

    If there are no plastic tabs sticking out, then go to AutoZone, or some other parts store, and buy a quick disconnect tool kit. If you know what size you need, then you'll only have to buy the one. They should be less than $5 each.
  • I would say that you need a new fuel pump and or filter, most likely the pump considering its age. -ryan
  • I have the same problem with my 98 Cherokee Sport 4.0l with 211,000 miles. I think it may just be a loose wire in the dash since the Speedometer + Tach will start working if I press the Trip Odometer but that does not always work. The Airbag light goes off as soon as they start working again. Do you have an Automatic or manual trans? I have seen some references to a speed sensor but I believe that is only for an automatic and mine is manual. Did you have any luck figuring it out on your 99? Mine just started happening today and I need the Odometer to record mileage for work.
  • Hi, I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee and the coolant sensor light has been coming on and off for about the past two months. It will go on for a few seconds then it will go off again and stay off for maybe a week. Then it will do it again. I haven't noticed a trend in the timing. I have had the coolant levels checked and my boyfriend replaced the sensor for me. I live an hour away from a Jeep dealership and my local mechanic refuses to look at Jeeps (says they are a nightmare to work on). I was just wondering before I took it all the way over there if anyone had any ideas as to what the problem could be. The dealership seems to think its a computer problem which could run hundreds to fix. Other than this the vehicle is running great. It had a tune-up last Nov. and just had an oil change done.
  • I have a 1999, 96k,Sport that is currently running around 210
    both when towing and by itself. I have replaced the thermostat, and water pump.

    I guess the only thing left is the radiator - Unless 210 isn't too bad?

    In the last six month I have replaced the air conditioner condenser, water pump,
    is it time for a ne vehicle? seems like $500 of something every couple months...
  • Is the coolant sensor light only supposed to alert you to low coolant? If so, I'd ignore it if you knew the coolant level is ok.
Sign In or Register to comment.