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1995 Chevy/Geo Metro Real World MPG
I just purchased a 1995 Geo hatchback lsi (1.3L, automatic), and am getting just 27 mpg. Is there a serious problem with this car? Is there anything I can do to improve the mileage significantly?
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Comments
26 City, 31 Highway, 28 combined.
With no info on what type of driving is getting 27mpg for you, I'd say you're in the range. Now if that's your on your first tank (since you just purchased), I'd say give yourself some time to become accustomed to drving the car and see how the mileage performance goes. The conditions you have to drive in may result in numbers like that. My first instinct is that you're not looking at some kind of serious issue with the car.
I'm a definite believer in preventative maintenance with my vehicles and use mileage performance as a barometer of the car's health. A sudden change in mileage can be an indicator that something might not be right.
You might want to get an oil change/tuneup to clear those kind of issues and see how that affects your mileage. That will also set your starting point for thinking about regular oil, changes, etc.
-metrochekyoself REPRESENT!!!
I bought a used 99 Metro in 2003....with A/C...getting slightly less.....
I'm keeping it.
And if GM wants my business, they will have to sell a vehichle that gets as much or better in mileage.
Currently, I have slightly more than 80,000 miles on the odometer.
It's really neat to read about gas mileage based on actual experience, not on theoretical figures!
Thank you!
Thanks again.
do not give the ac parts to dealer as they have value and can be sold by them. your compressor probaly needs a 30 dollar clutch to be as good as new. the rest of the parts would sell for over 1000 dollars as reconditioned. remanufactured compressor goes for around 300.
My wife's 2001 (I believe that is the year) 4 door LSI auto 4 cylinder gets as good as 37 mpg and as low as 25 mpg. It really needs an overdrive gear and torque converter lock up to make it really impressive on gas mileage.
Even at 40 mph it feels and sounds like it needs to change gears. GM is very great about overdrive automatics, but on this GM/Suzuki model, the damn bean counters won out apparently to the detriment of the consumer and the reputation of the automatic equipped car.
I'm not aware of any automatic for many years previous to it that came without overdrive...In this day and age, it is not excuseable. That is my only gripe about that car.
My question is : Do you think is a do it yourself job to install the 30 dollar clutch or the bearing that went bad on my AC?? My AC makes that noice ,I disconected the belt, noise no longe exist but I know I have the bearing problem as it make noise if I conect the bell., or when i spin the wheel that hold the belt in place. If one can do it were can I buy the parts? Any help would be greate. Love this little car. 2001 Chevy Metro LSI 4 door 1.3cc engine.
I drive it pretty hard)
Recently had a career change that will soon require me to drive 450 mi. per week. I had never forgotten my Sprint, so I researched both Sprint and its Geo successors as I approached this career change. I decided to locate a Geo Metro 4-cylinder, manual transmission, with air conditioning, between 95 and 97, and began a 5 state hunt for The Car. They are *very* hard to find and, combined with the fact that total cost was an important factor for me, I knew I had to locate one in functional but restorable condition -- couldn't afford the few fully reconditioned ones I was able to find. (These were running between $4500 and $6000.)
Settled on a 96 2 door hatchback -- good interior, almost zero body rust, good AC, new exhaust system, new tires, good engine and tranny, 102,000 mi. Clearly needed a clutch pack, but gave me 40 MPG in less than optimum condition right off the lot for $1400. My mechanic added an axel and a front brake job to his list of needed repairs, but this was still within my budget.
One serious piece of bad news almost undid me. Although the car was accident-free, a full inspection revealed the front portion of the frame was seriously rusted in strategic places. I had to decide whether to sell it back to the dealer, make $600 of mechanical repairs and expect the car to last a max of 18 months --- or, double my acquisition cost by adding a frame repair, and try to make the car immortal.
I did my arithmetic, conservatively, and calculated that if I were able to sell off my lovely 2002 Dodge Stratus for $2000, the gas savings would pay for the Geo Metro *and* its repairs in nine months.
So, I'm going for "immortal". A thorough restoration now will cut my gasoline cost in half for the foreseeable future. And I happen to *really* enjoy driving this car again. Not everyone would like it. But in return for feeling a little bit like Fred Flintstone behind the wheel, I also feel like I am beating The Establishment (just like the old days) by getting where I want to go in comfort, at half-price.
I'm no mechanic, but I pay attention when my mechanic and my body man explain things, and I get under the hood or under the lift with them. I think I made a decision that will satisfy me, though it might not be for everyone.
Hope this might help some others in their decision-making.
Linda
I miss my Geo already, but I had to get a new car because it was beginning to die and I couldn't risk being stranded out in the desert with it.
thank you
victor.
A couple of years ago, someone left a note on my car offering to buy it, but I thought it was a joke and ignored it. Now, after reading a lot of reviews on this car, I realize that the offer could have been serious.
Thank you.
Don't go more than 4000 miles between oil changes, or you will also, find your engine burning oil.
My engine does not burn any oil between oil changes, after 65000 of my miles.
I listen to the engine when I start & I allow it to idle up to 60 seconds before I drive off (I do have to go up a steep grade). I can literally hear the change when the upper parts of the motor start to really lubricate properly. The sound is subtle, but it is there once you notice it. I really believe that this has made a huge difference for the motor.
I never fail to do this if has been more than 2 hours since I drove it (when the temperatures are mild).
I paid $1200 for the 3 cylinder engine, including installation. I recently heard that the cost has gone up several hundred since then, but everything has gone up with that gasoline cost increasing.
Until last year, my Manual 3 cylinder Always got 50+ mpg; city/hwy.
Mine now needs a new engine computer, sort of; Meaning that the portion that acts like a computers RAM (basically instant memory used for start up) no longer works, so the computer has to take about 20 seconds to (quoting my mechanic" "remember how to make the engine run most efficiently, again".
Because the Automatic has no overdrive to reduce the engine speed, the Manual stick shift feels like the engine will last a lot longer. I also prefer to drive the Manual on trips as it wears on your body a lot less, than with the high revving auto tranny. Hope this helps.
thankyou
Driving mostly 60-65 mph. But even up to 75 still got me mid 30's. I was astonished, and still am getting about 33 mpg city now!! I love Geo's!!
(Also have always used Prolong oil additive to help engine run smoother. Firm believer in its ability to help my engine last so long up to 240K miles. Will have a celebration when it gets to 300K.)
With high gas prices I went out looking for a 3 cyc. Stick and bought one on ebay. It was a 300 mile drive one way to get a pretty straight body. I checked with my mechanic first about dropping a low mileage Japanese engine in, assumng one might be needed. One was needed, it was burning 1 quart of oil per 100 miles, OUCH! The good side was I drove it 800 miles and fuels it every 110 miles to check fuel consumption. Filling into the neck, it got 46-55 mpg with a bad engine! Not bad!
With a new to me engine and trans, I am hoping to get that 68.2 you mentioned. I want to try a few long trips without gimmick products, then consider some of those later. I am one of those that deposited $500. on a future Aptera, so the Geo is keeping me busy until the SUPERCAR goes into production. I have driven 5,000 miles in the past 25 days, so I need something that scores record mpg.
Thanks for the mpg info you posted.
Jay
jb
Part #4339, CON SN 7614 REV CI, PG 2007-4.
On one end there are 4-connections:
Side One:
2-push on connectors,
1-plastic with 6-wires in this order: Red, orange, purple, green, black-thick dull, red.
1-plastic with 3-wires in this order: Red, Black-thin shiney, Black-thick dull.
SIDE ONE:
Empty slot: says CN4
The Blk-thick dull connected to Blk/Yellow wire.
The Blk-thin-shiney connected to green wire.
The Red, connected to White/Blue comming from ignition (using clip connection).
The Blk-thick dull, to Black/Yellow comming from ignition (using clip connection).
And 2-Blk-thin shiney wires to ground screw.
SIDE TWO:
Slot says CN5
On the other side of the part there is a white cable with a hint of brown on the #1 position (looks like a computer IDE ribbon), or like a computer drive cable, about 1-inch wide and 18-inches long.
I do not know where this cable goes, or what it hooks into. The car won't run without this part connected, and functional.
This car was stolen, I just regained possession after 8-months. It was mal-treated physically. It was also hot-wired, but no wiring was cut; they rigged a toggle switch from the alternator by alligator clips, and ran the wires to driver's seat where the toggle switch was.
The car was running the other day, but my son's friend somehow-accidently disconnected this cable, now the car won't run and I can't locate where it should run to for connection.
I am moving and have only a couple of days to remove our possessions, and have no other way to to this. I am extremely grateful for your advice, and consideration. Thank you.
I am 70 miles from Los Angeles, so I would think if there was a supply, they might have a source close by.
Thanks/Jay