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Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems
I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota V6 automatic, 4 x 4.
It stalls when engagning to reverse but only when the engine is cold. It is ok after driving 10 miles or so.
See also: Car stalling repair tips for all cars, especially Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth
It stalls when engagning to reverse but only when the engine is cold. It is ok after driving 10 miles or so.
See also: Car stalling repair tips for all cars, especially Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth
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Comments
Thanks in Advance.
Why no spark?
Why positive charge on negative line to Coil?
Why does charge on line 1 go away?
Coil good.
Lines clear.
Battery good 12 volt.
Fuel pump good with fuel.
Today Montgomery in the woods
I have recently replaced the crank sensor in my 98 dakota (156,000km) and everything ran fine for a week or so. Then it began to misfire while approaching normal operating temp (around 3 minutes down the road). It misfires, lurches, and sputters while only allowing 30km/hr speed. This goes on for 10-15minutes and then rights itself.
I've replaced all plugs, plug wires, and the distributer. If I park it and it cools down for 5 minutes, the same thing happens. A different mechanic has suggested spraying the ignition coil with water to find out if that's the weak link... Any other suggestions?
May I assume that when the problem occurred you replaced ignition components and the problem still persists in the same way?
Have you replaced the distributor cap and rotor?
Regards,
Dusty
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota that lately has been randomly dying on me. I'm not entirely sure what the problem is and I currently don't have the money to have a shop fix it so I'm trying to figure this out myself. The problem is that completely at random the truck will just shut down. I was told originally that the issue is a computer problem and that when this happens the odometer should read "no bus", but it does not and never has. The truck also just quietly dies. It doesn't stall or jerk or anything. It just...dies. No fuss, no nothing. I try to crank it again and it doesn't crank back up immediately. However, when this happens, all the electronics work just fine. The radio, windows, gears shift, odometer works, and the starter turns over, but the engine doesn't start. The thing is that I've never had to have it towed because I can wait about 10-15 minutes and the thing starts right back up again. I apologize for the long post, but I really need this figured out. Thanks for all the help.
I have recently seen a bad Ignition Switch on an older RAM that was causing the same symptoms.
Another possibility is intermittent Automatic Shutdown Relay or a stalling fuel pump.
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks.
Dusty
How are the shifts: 1-2, 2-3, 3-4?
Is there any indication of a harsh engagement from neutral to drive or reverse?
At the moment I cannot think of an engine management component or common principal that could cause this symptom only in reverse. My initial thinking is this could be a transmission problem.
A locked up converter would cause stalling in drive as well. However, at drive away one usually starts at launch and continues to some road speed. In reverse, one usually launches then quickly reduces speed. This type of scenario could be masking a problem that exists in forward motion, too.
A hanging converter clutch or band might cause this symptom that only seems to manifest itself in reverse. I think a broken planetary gearset could also give you this problem. You have a 42RE transmission. Converter clutch and sticky shift solenoids are a couple of the more common component problems, broken bands and/or planetary gears very, very rarely.
Just as an aside, what is the transmission history on this vehicle? Has it ever been repaired or rebuilt? Have you performed routine transmission maiontenance? How many miles on this truck?
Regards,
Dusty
Good luck
Dan C
Thanks for any advice.
My first suspicion is you have an intermittent electrical connection, especially on a vehicle that old. Another problem could be an intermittent ASD or fuel pump relay.
Good luck,
Dusty
Thanks again.
Brian
Weak or dirty Idle Speed Motor
Dirty/sticking PCV valve
Vacuum leak (Evaporative hoses are a common problem)
Best regards,
Dusty
220,000 miles on the truck
The truck is not a everyday vehicle, but I use it alot in the fall/winter months. When I come to stop signs I notice the rpm's drop and the truck stalls out. It starts right back up when I try. Is it a fuel senor maybe?
Hope I helped
Any help would be appreciated.
I have to be honest with you, PCM problems on Dakotas are very, very rare. If fact, I think I'd say that for most make trucks. The manufacturers go to great lengths in designing a robust and reliable computer. But, failures do sometimes occur.
I would be more suspicious of a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor, especially on the age of the vehicle and the vintage. I'm surprised no one has already suggested this to you. A badly worn distributor can cause the same symptoms as well.
Best of luck,
Dusty
Non factory ignition parts will cause this problem, as well as a serious vacuum leak.
Regards,
Dusty
The plungers are made of a highly fuel resistant silicon rubber material, and the plunger and the passage can and will get gummed up causing restricted movement of the plunger. This area can be cleaned with any common carburetor-type cleaner. On 3.9 motors, the IAC is mounted at the rear of the Throttlebody. It has a four wire connector attached to it and is secured by two torx screws and is easily removed.
Use care reinstalling the plunger. When they're dry they can be damaged trying to reinsert the plunger back into the bore. I find that a quick spray of carb cleaner on the plunger provides enough lubricity for reinsertion.
Regards,
Dusty
One more question. Can this gummy buildup have any effect on fuel economy? Like maybe less air in the throttle body causing a richer fuel/air mixture???
When the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) senses that the vehicle is reducing speed, the PCM tells the IAC motor to retract the pintle and close the idle air passage, If the pintle sticks and does not close the idle air flow passage, it would be equivalent to having an excessively high idle or opening the throttle partially on a carbureted engine.
If fuel consumption seems higher to you, there are a whole bunch of other things I'd check first.
Glad to hear cleaning the throttlebody solved your problem.
Best regards,
Dusty
Thank you for the update.
Are you in a cold weather part of the country?
Regards,
Dusty