Mazda CX-9 Tires and Wheels
Hi all, I have owned Mazdas for the last 15 yrs or so. Thinking about buying the CX, so went for a test drive a few days ago. I was concerned about the ride quality of the 20's so tried it out. Then after that, drove the one with 18 inch wheels over the same course. I really couldn't tell any difference in ride, but what I noticed right away was the higher level of tire/road noise with the 18 (yes eighteen) wheels. I was wondering if anyone else found this to be true. With Mazdas, its wonderful how the ride smooths out at highway cruising.
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as far as the ride difference, you'll definitely get a more sport ride with the 20's as there is less sway when turning. 18's have more height (from the outside wheel edge to the outside tire radius) to absorb more road shock...but 20's are a perfect diameter for this SUV...
After driving it, I completely forget about what I read and focused on getting a GT instead since it has some features I want (except MORE chrome...GYAH! LESS chrome, PLEASE - I'm not 17 yrs old!)
Love the heck out of the car though. I agree with another post, went with the Touring b/c the wife and I didn't like all the chrome.
Second, for any tire experts out there in snow country - would you expect any difference in snow/ice traction between the 245/60R18 H speed rated on the Touring vs the 245/50R20 V-Speed rated on the GT?
Thanks
Question on the Blizzaks. Do you know how those wear vs normal dry weather tires? Are they a tire you can drive on all year, or do they need to be pulled off in the warmer months?
I know some people switch out their nice summer rims for cheapo ones in the winter, but that's usually because they are downsizing in rim size so that their winter tires will be cheaper.
It would be interesting to read the Acadia forums: the Acadia comes in optional 19" rims, so when winter hits it might be a nice benchmark to see if these folks have issues (the reason I mention the Acadia is because their forums are much more active than the CX-9 forums, so there should be more real-life data there).
I also had fears of going into the tire store when the 20" tires need replacing. Best estimates I could get is that the 20" tire would run between $75 and $100 more per tire to replace than the 18"! Ouch.
I think you're right about the tires, on average the 20" will cost more, and you will have less choices than the 18". I am also looking at the GT, and had looked around since I had the same concern. Sam's Club does have a couple brands at about $100 per tire, that's the best that I saw (but you have to order online). I'm sure Costco would have similar deals.
As for winter tires and speed rating: Consumer Reports tested V and H-rated winter and all-season tires, and the bottom line is that there are no correlations between a higher speed rating and lower performance (i.e. the V and H-rated tires get the same performance ratings). What I did find is that there seem to be more choice of H-rated tires.
I think you might be thinking of a pure performance summer tire with high speed rating, whose rubber compound hardens in the winter and thus does not provide optimal traction. But here you're looking at two all-season tires, so differences are minimal.
The chains I bought for my Honda CRV were over $100, an my friend just bought some for his 18" tires for about $350, so I'm just a wee bit concerned.
Tahoe is at 1400 metres and the grade on the interstate going up to Donner Pass is steep, sometimes as much as 6%. Donner Pass on that route is 1818 metres and it's not the highest road pass in California. On one trip over, we decided to hit a motel late in the day and take our chances on clear weather the next day to avoid buying chains.
Obviously my local dealer never checked air pressure before selling this car, but even more concern is that I could have taken this car out on the highway for a long drive and perhaps blown a tire, due to over inflation!
I had read previously that auto makers do over inflate the tires, as the cars ride better on the car carriers. Not sure if this is true or not, but it certainly points out the need to double check everything once you have it home!
So far the CX-9 is great! Love the handling - reminds me of a sports sedan!
I don't find them noticeably noisy, or hard or soft to any material difference.
If you compare them to racing tires or Off-road Desert Tracker tires, yes, you'll notice a difference, but for an all-season $200 tire, you can't go wrong.
Good luck and Hit it!
Tahoe in 2 hours
http://www.vulcantire.com/cgi-bin/chainsearch.cgi?size=245/50-20&model=SZ435&f=c- hainz6_c.htm
Just bought a set for my 20" wheels. They need very little clearance. These guys shipped it out fast.
Z-Chains
The tires on my CX-9 GT that I took delivery in January 2008 in California were also over-inflated to 46 when hot but dropped down to 40.5 when the car sat in the garage overnight. I reduced the tire pressure to 35 psi when cold. The ride is definitely less bumpy now.
Check your tire pressure and fluid level. You would be surprised.
I wonder if mine were overinflated as well. No way to tell now of course. That was an expensive lesson.
Oh, and, sorry if I missed the topic elsewhere. My search revealed nothing.
By balancing, I meant
- diameter
- tire grip (same brand, same age/wear)
Even tire of the same "size" (i.e. 245/55R20) actually might have slightly different diameters (see tirerack.com for specs).
So, in short,
- if your tires are still new (few miles on them), I would buy the same tire and put just ONE on.
- if your tires are pretty worn, I would recommend you buy two (per axle) and keep the old one as spare. And, put the newer two tires on the rear axle.
That is just my opinion. Let us see what others have to say.
Our CX9s are equipped with TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system). When rotating tires, you DO NOT need to reset the TPMS. Here is what I found after some research.
- if your vehicle is capable of telling you WHICH tire has too low pressure, then, chances are you need to reset TPMS every time you rotate tires (such as some high-end luxury vehicles like Acura RL or Lexus LS)
- if your vehicles is NOT capable of telling you that (like our CX9, which only shows a warning light), then, you simply rotate the tires like you used to do.
I just rotated the tires over the weekend. 100 miles later, no light at all. Google search before I did it gave me confusing information. Therefore, I post the correct answer here to share with you all.
When changing to new tires, make sure you tell the mechanics not to damage the sensors connected to the valve stem. They are pretty expensive. There is no way to turn the TMPS light off permanently since it is against Federal law. For those who use winter tires set, you either have to buy a new set of sensors to go with them or simply ignore the constant light of TPMS that shows up in your dash.
According to the WorkShop Manual, our CX9s pressure sensors inside the tires sends signal to the central antenna (same one as your SmartKey or non-SmartKey receiver). The sensors do so once per hour and after the speed reaches 25km/h (15.5mph). "Once per hour" so that the little batteries inside the sensors can last 10 years.
I can post the procedure to register the new sensors if anyone is interested.
I believe it is also in your owners' manual so I omit it here.
Yoko Parada Spec-X
(Check tirerack.com for reviews).
They sound too good to be true. I live in Northern Jersey so snow capability is a must for me.
Thanks ceric
OE tires (Bridgestone Dueller H/L) are not cheap tires. It listed $200 on tirerack.com (while Yoko Parada Spec-X is ONLY $160). So, MAZDA was not trying to be cheap here. It is just that they chose summer performance over snow.
The OE tires work well on dry and wet pavements.
Also, make sure you choose a CX9 that is manufactured as late as possible (see the stickers on the base of B-pillar) so that those TSBs (see another thread) don't apply to your new CX9.
I could not find any specific comment on this.
The Yoko Parada Spec-X are more truely all-season tires.
Both are all-season ones.
Unlike snow-tires, they don't wear very quickly in summer.
Yoko Spec-X has wear index of 460 while OE one has only 260. That means, by federal testing, the Yoko lasts almost 2X longer!
Now that's an expensive mistake! About $1000+ maybe?
Is there someway you can use a steel chain attached to the down cable with weatherproof locks (to protect from road debris)? Maybe you can thread it through the new rim and attach with a steel bar that can fit through the opening and be locked in place with u bolt or other.
So where do they expect you to put the 20" wheel with the flat if you get one on the side of the road and you got the back full of other stuff? ie. on a road trip with the family and the car is already stuffed to the gills.