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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • BF Goodrich Traction T/A T rated. Also Check out for survey results/ratings and some other highly rated tires depending what you are able to find. I actualy have and 03 tarus wagon the continentals were ok for the first 20k but didnt have much winter traction later. replaced mine @ 52K.
  • In Texas the winter traction is not really an issue, so waiting till now... 66k miles... wasn't too much of a stretch. I'll look into the Goodrich's. Thanks.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    I put Bridgestone Turanza LS-T's on my 01 SES. Very pleased with this tire. Excellent ride, excellent handling, excellent wet weather grip. I have 35k on them so far, and they show very little wear. Rated for 80k.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Are there any current generation Taurus or Sable owners living in cold weather winter climates that have a slight muted clunk in either their rear suspension or exhaust system?

    My 2000 SES has developed this. It only shows up in cool or cold weather and disappears after a mile or less of driving. Once the suspension has been exercised a bit or the exhaust system warms up the clunk disappears completely. It doesn't bother me much currently but if it turns into something that clunks all the time I might have do something about it. Anyone out there that have had this and have a solution?
  • would like to know more about the repair, my 01 sable has been ok since I changed to motorcraft oil, but I wonder if the noise will return, is there a bulletin on it or did you find a mechanic that had figured it out
  • The chirping sound i posted about quite a while back was indeed the cam syncronizer assembly. I will leave out the names of the places i went to about this problem. The first place i went to said they could get the part from ford and install it. I did alot of research on this synchronizer so I was about 90 percent sure thats where the noise was coming from and also learned how to replace it but didnt have the tools to do it myself and probably couldnt do it even if i did. So this first place said they could do it and got the old one out and sure enough that was what was chirping. They got the new one and put it in and i noticed they didnt adjust it. The shop repair notes i got stressed how important it was to align it and that you needed a special tool to do it. This place didnt have it so while driving home to get the shop repair info to show them my check engine light came on. well long story short i had to go someplace else who had the tool and could do it right. just lost money to get it done right.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Alcon are you around? anyone know any info on this?
    Update. SES seems to go out after three cold cycles. Then returns after a few days. Anyone know of the intricate details of how this code/system works?
  • I replaced both Rotors, Pads, Brake Cylinders on rear of my 98 Taurus. I noticed that only a small portion of the pad was hitting the rotor (top portion of the outside pad, drivers side, rear). My mechanic said that it would seat properly in time. It didn't. It quickly wore that outside pad down at an angle.

    I then replaced disc pads and rotors a second time, and again the outside pad, drivers side rear is only hitting the rotor on the top. It too is beginning to wear on an angle.

    This began when the brake cylinders were both replaced on the rear of the car. The mechanic says that the cylider is functioning correctly, and doesnt know why that one outside pad continues to wear on an angle.

    Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks in advance.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check with your local Ford dealer's service dept re this TSB. Not sure of the contents:
    98-06-05, Transaxle - Ax4n - Torque Converter Clutch Not Engaging And/Or Diagnostic Trouble Code (Dtc) P0741 Or P1744 Stored In Memory

    Some info:

    The Torque Converter Clutch locks the input to output together during low-torque periods of driving. This lowers RPM and saves fuel as well as engine wear and tear. The TCC is a duty-cycle between 0 and 100% and is controlled directly by the PCM.

    There are both Electrical - P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical

    and Mechanical checks - P1744 Torque Converter Clutch System Performance

    The following conditions have to be met before the CCM runs the TCC check:
    Conditions: Transmission Fluid Temp between 70° and 225° F and positive driving torque. The Electric check needs a Commanded TCC duty cycle of 60 to 90% with 0 RPM slip, while the mechanical check requires 60 to 100% for 0 rpm slip. The TCC is not checked while the transaxle is shifting gears.

    If the output Driver feedback circuit does not match the commanded driver state (> 1 volt if commanded on, ) the P0743 DTC is recorded. If the slip across the torque converter >100 rpm (or on some application the speed ratio <0.93%) then P1744 is recorded.
  • My dad's mechanic diagnosed the problem first. When mine started chirping, I did a search in this forum and read what other people were writing. I passed along the info to my mechanic who determined I had the same problem. Don't know how your changing oil brands would silence this type of problem. Could be just a coincidence. If so, I would expect the problem to return.
  • Have your mechanic do a search for bulletins on this. Mine found several, each one seeming to change its position on this stuff. My mechanic decided it was best just to go back to the green and stick w/ it. Less potential problems w/ gelling, + proven reliability.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    With what appears to be many problems with various long life coolants, it would seem that better information would be widely available.
    I ran across the beginnings of a class action against GM and Dexcool. Much of it sounded like BS to anyone knowledgeable but it might work for an average jury. One of the defenses GM was using, you let air get in system. OK, that might work with vehicles that had a recovery bottle so the coolant heated and under pressure wouldn't react with air. But I have an Aurora which has a pressurized reservoir much like on recent Taurus. Has to have air in bottle, says Dexcool only on the cap. And I haven't received any info such as recall or notice changing that. And you mention the green. As I recall, part of the reason for a move away from it was the composition which can clog a converter. Part of the reason for the GM change I'd bet since the allowable seepage for GM spec is so high. Yet a lot of the people in the class action were alleging plugged coolant systems, radiator, heater cores, resulting in blown head gaskets. GM certain seems to have a high rate of this in it's 3.1,3.4, & 3.8 engines. Ford also has it's problems mostly in the 3.8 and the newer Duratec. That seems odd to me since the Vulcan is the same engine with different heads which leads me to believe it is a design flaw.
    I can not help but wonder if American Automotive would be best served with a watchdog/blabber mouth organization such as the crash test people but only for durability/reliability of vehicles. It might force Detroit to build better. Something is seriously wrong when you look at the reputation of AX, AXOD, AXOD-E, AX4n, & AX4s family of tranmissions. Over 20 years of this and they haven't fixed? Yes seriously wrong.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks Alcan,
    I replied yesterday but for some reason it didn't post.
    Do you understand what they mean by duty cycle?
    Quite informative is that they designed a way for the computer to ensure that the electrical circuit wasn't open.(no code p0743)
    Wife took car to shop the other day. They said new tranny. Then I learned wife added fluid. It had never lost any in the two years since flush and fill. Claimed she dumped several quarts in. WHAT?? It was at proper level less than a week before. Also found bottle that said type F. OS! Went to shop yesterday morning, checked level, vehicle cold and it was a little low, but likely correct if warmed up. They swore they never dropped pan, so where did all the fluid go??????
    Now suspect wife checked engine off. double OS! Added type F and of course way over full. Limped to shop, should have been suspicious something was going on she wasn't revealing. My stupidity for believing she was finally listening to me. And after looking under car, no major leaks present, I noticed that all the pan bolts looked very clean and dry. Some wetness around gasket, which makes me believe the pan was down and cleaned and for some reason they are lieing about dropping pan.
    Further they claimed it needed new compressor, drier, and condenser. Ok, system leaks a little each year and was tracked to a factory crimp on low pressure hose returning to compressor. I managed to tighten that crimp with more clamps to the current leak rate. Never any sign of oil on condenser and none at crimp, anymore. No mention of replacing that expensive hose assembly with the visible clamps. More Hmm! Also claimed rear seal was leaking. Well it has been leaking small amounts of oil, visible in driveway. But I'd have bet it was the oil pan gasket with mileage/age of vehicle. Been there twice before and seems rear seal is rather rare on Vulcan.
    Current plan, filter, flush and fill of tranny with correct fluid. Pray.
    Look for more info and reason TCC has been engaging early. Hopefully you can give me a hint as to what parameters are needed before TCC engages. Then pray it hasn't ate TCC by over stressing.
    The sensors in the tranny that feed the computer seem very limited and make me question why a tranny rebuild. I suspect the side pan can be gotten off without pulling.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks again Alcan,
    I doing a follow on to last post as it was wandering and getting long.
    Still puzzled what is meant by duty cycle.
    Have to question what sensors are related to TCC lock. No other codes. Possible sensors in tranny would be fluid temp and turbine shaft speed. Range sensor would be external and suspect show other symptoms. VSS is external. Other electrical components are solenoids for shifting and pressure regulation. Since it seems to shift normally in every rate of acceleration except for early TCC under mild acceleration, I can't help but suspect something else is going on. To the best of my knowledge, there is no mechanical control over whether TCC is engaged or disengaged in the valve pack. Modulator valves and springs may affect the rate of engage or disengage when the TCC solenoid changes state thusly modifying how quickly the clutch itself engages or disengages. This has shown no harshness.
    Possibilities that might be related to code:
    TC clutch is slipping.
    Internal leak not allowing full apply pressure.
    Something electronic is out of range.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "Still puzzled what is meant by duty cycle."

    Turn a light on for 3 seconds, off for 7, on for 3, off for 7. One cycle is 10 seconds, and the "on" time is 3 seconds, or 30% of the length of one cycle. This is a 30% duty cycle. Now reduce the time frame of one on-off cycle from seconds to milliseconds (1/1,000 second) and you have typical automotive electronic circuitry performance. The "on" time is also referred to as the pulse width. Typical pulse width modulated devices include fuel injectors, trans pressure control solenoids and TCC control solenoids, linear EGR valves.

    Parameters for TCC apply usually include:
    - engine warmed up
    - 3rd gear
    - minimum road speed met
    - throttle off idle
    - less than wide open throttle
    - manifold vacuum within specified parameters
    - brake pedal released

    If any of the above conditions are not met, the TCC will not apply.

    Re the F fluid, the container probably reads M2C33F. It's the early Ford fluid spec. Major difference is that it does not contain any friction modifiers, which are used to control the lockup rate of clutches and bands for smooth shifts. A complete refill with F will probably cause more abrupt clutch apply and may cause TCC shudder on apply, a small amount will probably not cause any noticable difference. Fwiw, an old trick with GM transmissions for was to fill them with F for a "shift kit in a bottle".
  • gerry53gerry53 Posts: 1
    About a week ago, the climate control system (heat/defroster/AC), regardless of the temperature setting (automatic or manual) is currently putting out air roughly the temperature of the sunny side of the planet Mercury. At first I thought the problem was only confined to the Air Conditioning as it was producing only hot air. I soon discovered that the heater/defroster was unaffected by any change in the temperature setting. It seems like the temperature control is stuck on the maximum setting.

    I have since found Technical Service Bulletin #02236 dated 11/25/2002 the summary of which states:


    The complete text to this TSB makes references to Workshop Manual sections 501-12 and 412-04. It lists the part number as 3F1Z-19D842-AA and states the repair should take about 3 hours which includes removing and reinstalling the instrument panel.

    Please excuse my ignorance, but is this a repair that someone of modest mechanical abilities (me) could attempt to do? On another repair forum, I was told "yes it's a relatively simple repair". Yet, on another repair forum, I was told this is a very complex task involving recharging the a/c, removing the entire dash and heater core. Obviously I'm a tad confused and from what I gleaned about having a shop do the repair, I'm looking at over $600.

    If this is indeed something I could attempt, where could I find the appropriate instructions or workshop manual(s), either printed or on CD?

    Thanks for any help that you might be able to supply.

  • What does revving the engine while in park do to the engine?? Also, my emergency brake light is on constantly. It used to only go on while I accelerated or when I turned or when I was stopped but it seems to be on all the time now. What could be the problem? :sick: :confuse:
  • warlock1warlock1 Posts: 2
    Hey, just curious if you know anything about Ford Taurus Tranny's. I have a 2001 SEL Double OH and blew the Tranny at 180,000 miles. I found one at a junk yard, but it is for a column shift and mine is a floor shift. Everything else is the same, except for the shifter location. Will that tranny still work? I would almost think that it would only be a linkage issue and being that mine is on the floor and I have all hardware, I would be able to switch it over without a problem. HELP!!
  • warlock1warlock1 Posts: 2
    Hello All,

    I have a 2001 Taurus SEL with DHC. I travel all over the country and put over 50K a year on it. I blew the tranny this week at 180K and need to replace it quick. Mine is a floor shift and the tranny that I found is a column. The cars are exactly the same, with the exception of the shifter location. Are the tranny's the same other wise and can I use this tranny with my hardware?
  • bodenebodene Posts: 1
    wife noticed a noise checked it out front wheel seems like it is about to come off. any ideas? also anybody have a link to see a view of that assembly. would it be easy to fix? thank you all
  • rmillardrmillard Posts: 1

    I am also having this exact problem with my 98 Sable. Have you been able to find the cause of this yet? Thanks,

  • I posted this in wrong section i believe earlier....
    Hi iam new to site and looking for advice. About 3 weeks ago my wife took car to walmart for oil change.02' Ford Tauras..24 valve doh cam 54,000 miles. They double gasketed the filter(left old one on). Wife drove around town and car lost 5 of the 6 quarts of oil. Wal Mart knows they did this as they left message on machine saying we needed to contact them as soon as possible..oil trail out of their bay. Now I have low compression in a cylinder. They have set me up with rental car and and authorized dealer to find root of problem to see if the cause is due to the loss of oil. My question is, if the car ran perfect before the oil change fubar, and now I have a bad cylinder, can they deny their mess up dint cause the problem. Also, what else could be ready to explode inside the motor if all they do is fix this problem. Thanks for advice.
    P.S. They are admitting they are at fault of double gasket, I have receipt documenting it with manager signature.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    You are entitled to a NEW engine, not a remanufactured or a rebuilt engine. I would accept nothing less! They damaged your vehicle let them correct the problem. While you are waiting for a determination of this issue, I would also seek advice from your family attorney. Prior planning will prevent poor performance on your part with regards to dealing with Wal-Mart. You can be sure, that they have turned this issue over to their legal department. ---- Best regards. ---Dwayne
  • Greetings all. I'm assuming that this is the 12-step Taurus support group??? LOL...had to get that in...

    Seriously. I have a 1998 Taurus with with non-operating windows. This is a problem that manifested itself gradually. It started with one or two windows not functioning. It was intermittent. It gradually got worse. Eventually, I started hearing this rattling noise like a relay going bad, then the windows quite alltogether.

    I changed the window fuse under the dash, but I am told there is an all-powerful window regulator that controls all the windows - oh and I'm told it's behind the glove compartment.

    Can I get to this? Is it something I can get from Auto Zone and change myself?

    Also - Is this linked somehow to the courtesy lights? I noticed that the courtesy lights would not go off right before this problem started.

    Thanks :confuse:
  • It gets pretty hot here in Texas. Even with a windshield screen, the dashboard above the instrument panel has debonded and is warped about and inch above the plastic panel surround. Is this something I can fix with a good dose of RTV? and a decent weight? Or...should I use some type of heavy-duty double-sided tape?

    Thanks :confuse:
  • How can I get a copy of the extended warranty notice?

    My 2000 Taurus' DPFE sensor failed before 80K miles, and I would prefer not to pay the $197.40 the dealership wants to replace it.

    Also, other parts have failed and I am wondering if there is any way to find out whether there are extended warranties covering them as well.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I doubt that you really have to have the notice in order to get it repaired under warranty. I kept my notice in a file in case I need repair in the future. Let your dealer know you know of the extended warranty, then if that does not help, call Ford's 800 number for these type of issues, and I am sure they will be able to help you.

    If your car is under the extended warranty, it should cost you nothing for the repair. Note, I do not know if the warranty applied to all 2000 Tauri with both engines, but it definitely did to mine, which is a 2000 SES with 3.0 Duratech, and the car was built toward the end of the 2000 model year.

    I don't know of any other extended warranties except the front suspension springs. However there were several recalls that your car may have not been brought in for, such as the wiper motor and brake light switch replacement that I can remember I had replaced under recalls several years ago. With the VIN number, your dealer should be able to tell you whether your car had these recalls done.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks Again Alcan.
    First this must be S, not N by filter kit. 17 bolt pan, not 19.
    Still confusion over the duty cycle thing, but not as to what a duty cycle is. In the area of no slippage requirement which would seem to make both checks fail or pass as written. I do wonder though if the wording should have read "TCC solenoid" for duty cycle.
    Has the system progressed to the point that the apply rate of TCC is being controlled by PWM of the solenoid? It used to be fully on or off and TCC apply rate was controlled by a pressure and spring modulator valve circuit.
    Wife took car to shop, they said new tranny, but think they were guessing and don't know what reader they used.
    Change fluid using Lubeguard's flush. Much darker than I expected with 35K since last time. Probably a normal amount of material on magnet. Flushed via cooler line using 16 1/2 quarts. Test drove seemed OK. Wife driving and so far no code. Will redrive when time allows. Much confusion about why fluid was low, per wife, where excess may have gone to when she added. Just like a woman to confuse beyond any diagnostic measure that might point to the idiot behind the wheel.
    Thanks again.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Dash light is likely dual purpose. Check owners manual,learn to read.
    Second purpose could indicate problem in main brakes. Malfunctioning master cylinder, low fluid. Check fluid level immediately. Do not move until done and topped off! If low, likely you've got a leak. In either case, unless you fix, slowly go with caution to service station, if braking seems OK!!!
    Could also be bulb check circuit, bad wiring, but don't bet someone's life on it.
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