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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Purely conjecture here, but possibly a plugged A-C evaporator condensate drain line, so you are getting the condensed moisture building up rather than draining on the ground? Haven't had this with mine, but there might be a rubber tube hanging somewhere down below the firewall that you can blow out with compressed air.
  • I have a 1999 Mercury sable and my dome and map lights will not go out, I to removed the bulbs. The door ajar light goes out when the doors are shut. I did lube the door latches but it did not help. I pulled the relay out and it checked out just fine. It activated when I pluged it back in, which is normal for I had the door open. I can only think that it is in the timer circuit but I do not know for sure. Also sometimes the theft light will blink fast for about 3 minutes of car operation and than go out, like it is supposed to. Hope that someone can help. Thanks.
  • fintailfintail Posts: 41,928
    Thanks, I'll give that to her to suggest to the shop the next time she has it serviced. I guess that makes sense. The noise is certainly coming from behind the dash, I've never heard or seen anything like it in another car.
  • Both the map and dome lights will not go out with the doors closed. I lubricated the door latches and the door ajar light goes out when closing all doors. So now I know that it is not a door switch> I took the relay out and it benched checked ok. It activated when I plugged it back in because I had the door open. Also sometimes the theft light will blink fast for about 3 minutes of car operation and than go out, like it is supposed to. Where do I go from here? Hope that someone can help. Thanks.
  • I was changing my oil the other day when my neighbor came over. He asked if I was going to grease/lubricate the fitings while i was under there. Is there such a thing, or are they incased.
  • vtown707vtown707 Posts: 3
    thanks for the input jackdaniels1.. for some odd reason, i remember my radio goin out the same minute my speedo went out because my radio and amp was drawing too much current. i decided first things first lets check the fuse..when i replaced the fuse that's assign to the car's radio, not only did my radio started workin again but so did my i guess the fuse might share the same circut as with both the radio and the car's speedometer..?? but anyhow that problem is fixed. thermostat, i am convinced that this could be the problem because it's a common thing that goes bad especially for me having the car since brand new and putting 100 some odd thousand miles on the car.

    so i guess the only other thing i need to figure out now is my hesitation/miss fire i said, if im at a full stop after driving for awhile and give the car heavy gas initially after the full stop, the car seems to lagg in the lasts for only the first few seconds or so but funny thing is if i back off the throttle a little bit then gradually give the car more throttle again, the car avoids its self from hesitating..maybe someone might know what may be causing this problem?
  • vtown707vtown707 Posts: 3
    i'd probably try checkin a fuse or a relay that might control the windows and maybe even the the "lock" switch that disables passengers from rollin down their windows..also the connections to all the switches beneath the driver's door panel. I remember when i replaced my component speakers, i removed the harness that links to all the window/door lock switches on the driver's side to remove the door panel and forgot to plug the darn thing back..that unplugged connection caused me from not being to roll up/down my windows at that time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    your neighbor must be 80 years old, right? :P

    Very few cars have any kind of greaseable fittings...a few cars and trucks might have greaseable u-joints. Sometimes replacement suspension parts have greaseable fittings built it.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • pferrispferris Posts: 1
    I just inherited a 1993 V6 3.0 Taurus from my neighbor. The major problem with it is that while it starts normally with the key, it will NOT TURN OFF with the key! I can even physically REMOVE the keys from the switch. In order to turn the car off, I have to pop the hood, pull the battery cable from the battery, then pull the 3 wire (I believe it's 3...) plug on the alternator. The engine dies immediately. I then reconnect the alternator plug. Then, when I'm ready to start the car again, I connect the battery cable.

    The neighbor replaced the ignition switch itself in an effort to fix thi, with a Brand X from the parts store. He later determined that there is "...something wrong with the metal rod and a plastic piece, bit the switch itself is ok...". This means nothing to me (yet). Does it mean anything to you?!

    My question is, what's the fix?! Is the part likely replaceable, or would it be easier just to replace the steering column (not the airbag/steering wheel - I presume it's detachable from the column?).

    Any replies can be sent to pferris AT cox DOT net. All hints & tips are much appreciated!!!

    Thanks all!

  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hi, guys!

    I have a 2001 SES and I just wanted to let you all know that if you are looking for a GREAT set of tires for this car, go for the Bridgestone Turanza LS-T. They are smooth, reasonably quiet, have AWESOME wet traction and wet braking, have nice straight-line stability, and handle well. They have an 80,000 mile rating. Even though they are a T-rated tire, I find they handle as well as previous H-rated performance tires.

    If you go to Firestone during their "BUY 3, GET THE 4TH FREE" sale, you can get them for $500 with tax, lifetime balancing, lifetime rotation, lifetime repairs, and free tire replacement program.

    The tires are also rated 2nd in their class (Standard Touring All-Season) according to, only being below the BF Goodrich Traction T/A T.

    Since I had lifetime alignment already at Firestone, these were a GREAT deal and I got them for $490 OTD and a FREE XM Satellite Radio Tuner for the car ($79 value!).

    Let the tires break in 1000 miles and really feel them shine. They are much better than the Wal-Mart tires.

    - Alex

    P.S. If any of you experience a fuel cap light followed by a check engine light pertaining to fuel, use BP/Amoco 89 gas, and you will not have that problem - and cleaner burn.

    P.P.S. My car has almost 109,000 miles and runs like new!
  • timothyftimothyf Posts: 40
    Hi, I have a 1996 LX with 114K in average shape. I backed into a light pole (don't ask how) and messed up the bumper and rear quarter panel. The body repair is roughly $1K but isn't really needed to keep driving the car. Prior to the damage occurring I was hoping to keep the car till it becomes unreliable. Anyone have any thoughts as to if it makes sense to get the body work done? Thanks
  • We recently inherited a 1990 Taurus with 28,000 miles on it and a plain radio(no cd, no cassette). We would like to remove the radio an replace it with a newer one. How do you remove the radio? It has 2 trays and an ashtray under the radio. Any help would be welcome.


  • For the life of me I can not figure out how to make a new post subject of my own. SO, I am hijacking this thread. How can I tell if my new 1998 Mercury Sable has the vulcan or the duratec motor?

  • alright, my 96 Ford Taurus G keeps on breaking down... kinda

    After I switch from Drive to overdrive or vica versa, after awhile, the car will basically die with the service engine soon light as well as the oil, brakes, and gas light coming up. My car feels like it is breaking slowly and my steering wheel becomes locked

    what causes this?

    My oil temp was in the middle and i had around half a tank of gas left
  • there should be a hole in all four corners of the radio panel. you can buy a tool that fits those holes that release the radio panel. but if you are coordinated enough you can get four copper wires and poke in the holes to release the panel.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Well usually the Duratech's will have something that says that on the valve cover "24V DOHC Duratech" or something of that nature. Also, at least on the Tauri Duratechs, there was an emblem right behind the front wheel well "24V DOHC". Not sure if they did the same on Sable.
  • brownikabrownika Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Taurus that the air does not turn on in any position. Sometimes, it does work. Right now everytime that it doesn't work, I open the hood up and shut it hard, and the air comes on. Do not know what is causing the problem though.
  • shill2shill2 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on the same 2002 SEL and would appreciate ant knowledge on the problem.

  • Look in the WHITE pages of your telephone directory under the words "Latin" or "Latinos" for a body shop using those oen of those words in the sop's name. If none are listed, look for an auto repair shop with those words in their name and ask them for a body shop recommendation. Lastly, look in yellow pages of phonebook for an auto repair shop with a Spanish name and ask them.
    National chain body shop wanted $1800 to fix my car's front end damage, Latino's Body Shop (yes, that is its name) did it for $850.
    Rear-ended Taurus had estimated $2000 in damage, same shop charged $400 plus painted front bumper for an extra $150!
  • I recently purchased a 2000 Mercury Sable LS Premium,on floor shift, which I like very much; but I cannot find out which of the two transmissions Ford listed is installed - the "AX4N" or "AX4S".

    The engine is a 3.0L V6 Duratec DOHC 24 V and it does have a lot of getup and go. I thought the VIN would specify but it does not. The information sheet just says "Automatic 4 speed transmission"

    I have been told the AX4N is a better transmissioin, but do not really know.

    I will appreciate your assistance.

  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    It should actually be the 4FSN transmission.
  • I have taken my car to four different mechanics due to popping noises and squeaking noises that it was making. The first mechanic repaired the passenger side strut. The second mechanic repaired the lower ball joints and stabiizer bars. The third mechanic put on new calipers and rotars. The fourth mechanic put on four new tires and replaced the turn plate on the passenger side strut. Needless to say, I have invested a ton of money. The problem is, the car is still making noise - not as much noise- it's making noise. It makes four very distinct popping noises as the brakes are applied. As you press the brake pedal, the pops will occur as it goes down. There is also a very distinct popping noise when you make sharp turns to the left and the right. The latest response that I got from a mechanic was, "The car has 150,000 miles on it, noises are normal." I don't think these noises are normal, but nobody can seem to figure it out. Any suggestions?
  • beancounterbeancounter Posts: 31
    My 2000 Sable has 165,000 miles on it and it's as quiet as a mouse. There's a reason your car is making noises. I would keep searching for the reason.

    There was a recall on Taurus'/Sables that required the installation of some kind of shield above or around the front springs. I believe it was a corrosion issue and was designed to keep the spring from puncturing a front tire should it break. Don't know if 1999 was included in that recall. I had to have the same shields installed on a Contour and Mystique that I owned due to a similar recall. There were a number of complaints about the noise if they were not installed correctly. Some of them appeared here in the Forum. I experienced the problem on the Mystique and got it corrected. I have not had the shields installed on my Sable because I had the springs and struts replaced at 140,000, and didn't want the aggravation. (Eventually I will have them done due to it being a safety issue.) If you've had them installed on your Taurus, you might have them checked. I don't think it is the cause of the popping noises when applying the brakes, but it may be the cause during turning.

    I've also had front & rear stabilizer and stabilzer link repairs done. Those can make popping noises too, but it looks like you had stabilizer bars done. Front or rear, or both?

    Good luck.
  • mcinsulismcinsulis Posts: 1
    I'm fixing a car for one of my buddies, he drive a '92 mercury sable with 200 something miles on it. He told me the other day that it shut down on him while he was driving and he pulled over on the road. When he got it back to his house, he couldnt get it to turn over, now it the ignition wont even start. He said he fixed the Fuel filter, i assume it's the EEC, but i don't know. If you guys have any ideas lemme know--schools out in a few weeks and he has to drive it home. Thanks!
  • bstraightbstraight Posts: 1
    Thanks for the post. It was very helpful. Before leaving for work this morning my wife said her blower was not working in her 2002 Taurus. I did some searching and found your post. When she called from the garage, I asked her if there was a puddle of water and she said yes. So, I told her the problem before she told me. Our Taurus only has 38,000 miles and already we are replacing the blower motor, which I have never had to do in any car I have ever owned. I am sending my complaint from the link you provided as soon as I get home. Hopefully Ford will have to make good on this.
  • scrubscrub Posts: 1
    I am hoping you can tell me how to get the hood open. I decided to try to check my own fluids. I pulled the knob on the inside that has a little car with the hood up icon on it really hard & it seems nothing happened. I got out to try to pull the hood up (it was still closed looking!) A long time ago I could just put my hand about in the center of the front of the hood & there was a lever you could push up on & the hood would pop up (on my 75 model Olds). Is there something like that on this taurus? HELP! :confuse:
  • laura6081laura6081 Posts: 3
    The front stabilizer bars have been replaced. I'm not having any problems with the back of the car. All of the noises are coming from the front.
    Here's another challenge for you. Under the hood there is a rattling noise, one mechanic said that it is the AC compressor. However, the strangest thing happens. I can crank the car and leave it in park and the car won't make the noise. I put it in gear, leave the AC off and it will make the noise. Put it back in park and the noise will stop. Okay....I can turn the AC on while in park and it will make the noise. It also makes the noise while in gear with the AC on. In short, it will make the noise when the AC is on and when the car is in gear.
    Also, the check engine light is on. We had a mechanic use a computer to find out why, said we needed a new EGR valve. We replaced the EGR valve per instructions and then reset the light by unhooking the battery. Lo and behold, it's back on!

    I know...I need a new car, but I really need this car to last another year and a half. I'll graduate from college then and have more money to spend.
  • Hi, I have this same problem on my 98 Taurus.
    The things that push the hood up are worn out and don't work. What I do to get my hood open is, pull the hood release like you did, and then on the vehile grab the hood at the top (where the windshild wipers are located), slip your hand under the hood and pull up, then go to the front and do the normal relase at the center.
  • NurseMBHNurseMBH Posts: 7
    Just bought a 2004 Ford Taurus and was wondering if anyone can help me find the location of the door keypad code? Thanks in advance for your help. :)
    Las Vegas, Nevada
  • Hi, I was wondering if someone could please explain or link me to how to replace the front door handle on a 1993 Taurus Wagon. Thank you for your help.
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