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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • Looking for advice on an electrical repair I need done on my 1998 Mercury Sable SE Wagon (100K Miles)

    Problem seems to be an intermittent short in the electrical. Newest problem indicates faulty wiring or sensors in electrical system

    Long-time issues:
    * Driver side spkrs cut in and out.
    * Auto shut off of interior lights and auto lock of doors does not happen soon after start up, sometimes delayed 15-20 minutes, sometimes doesn't happen at all
    * Rain seems to amplify the issues

    Most recent problem:
    After normal driving of the car around town, engine will not start until after a few hours have passed. Battery seems fine (replaced a couple years ago), fuses seem fine. It's as if the starter/ignition system sensors or wires need time to cool down before they will allow the car to start. Turn the key - nothing. wait a few hours, and the car starts normally.

    Sometimes wiggling random wires seemed to fix the problem, but that's not a helpful fix now, is it? :(

    Would love to avoid unnecessary adventures in repairs and find the heart of the matter, minimize cost of repairs. Help!?!
  • You can get theese at your local auto parts store. If your in the states Autozone or NAPA Autoparts and there are many others just like them. Or if you are in Canada then Partsource or a local parts store.
  • steavesteave Posts: 6
    Thanks for the information Dave. It is greatly appreciated!

  • dcarr102dcarr102 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Mecury Sable LS Wagon. It has Auto a/c & heater controls. The A/C works fine (blows cold, adjusts to temp, etc). However, when I push the OFF button, it stops blowing cold air but it continues to blow air (and seems to move from the vent outlets to the upper defrost vent outlet). The display goes away - like it should when turned off but the blower keeps blowing. Any ideas?

    P.S. The battery was recently hooked up backwards - don't blew a 175 amp fuse (yep, that's a biggin!) and fried the alternator. Both were replaced and everything seemed fine after driving away from the repair shop - no other icons or funny happenings like it was doing on the way to the shop. Later that day, the blower problem occured - nothing else seems affected. :confuse:
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    The word "jingling" is exactly what my Escort did for a couple years whenever the AC was on. I thought it was something going on the AC and figured it's gonna be expensive to fix anyway, so I figured I would run it until the AC quit (it worked fine even with the noise).

    Some time later, I was under the car changing the oil and noticed two things on the exhaust: The little collars on each end of the flex pipe (that protect the braid ends) had come loose and were free to move up and down the pipe... and *THEY JINGLED* when I bumped them. Also, the bold attaching the exhaust support to the oil pan was loose and that bracket *JINGLED* as well. I figured the collars were no longer functional and just cut them off with tin snips, and I tightened the bolt for the exhaust bracket, and the jingle has not returned since.

    The Ford Aspire I had needed regular maintenance on the heat shields to keep them from rattling; I had to climb under the car about once or twice a year and tighten up all the clamps.

    A lot of jingly, rattly, nasty sounding noises on Fords (and many other cars as well) turn out to be loose exhaust components.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    I just thought I would share my experience with tires, since I just replaced the tires on my wife's 2003 Taurus.

    We got 70,000 miles on the original factory Continentals. I guess this shows the power of regular rotating and balancing. ;)

    They still had significant tread on them, but were getting noisy on the road. In looking into replacements, I had my eye on a set of Michelins from Costco, but I decided to look at Sears as well to make sure it was a good price.

    Sears was not very competitive on the Michies, but the salesman suggested Falken Ziex ZE512s. These are performance tires recommended as good replacements for Elantras (my other car is an Elantra and I know of a couple active boards). So I decided to try them out. In the P215/60R16 size (same as the stock Continentals), I got a full set of tires with full roadhazard warranty and lifetime rotate and balance for about $400.

    With the Continentals, it seemed the Taurus was really feeling its miles; I figured after getting the tires paid off, struts would be next. But after putting the Falkens on, the car feels much tighter and quieter than it was even when it was new. There is an enhanced road feel, but with very little loss of comfort; these tires don't beat you up but you really feel glued to the road.

    After a couple hundred miles, I would heartily endorse this tire as a way to give new life to your tired Taurus! :)
  • swimmer1swimmer1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Sable with about 100K miles on it, and it started running rough a couple of days ago. Its symptoms are a jerking motion within the drive train, and sometimes sluggish performance, even with your foot on the gas....

    At times it goes away after it warms up, but I have recently noticed it on the highway as well after driving for a while.

    Last night on the way home from some errands, the engine light came on...

    I had a friend hook up his computer to it, and it came back with a P0401 Insufficient Flow EGR Valve code

    I am reluctant to take it to the local Mercury dealer as they have done some shotty work for me in the past, including recently quoting me work that another mechanic told me didn't need to be done.

    Any thoughts on what the actual cause of this code is?

    Would appreciate any help you can provide.

  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Have you replaced the EGR valve? I mean, not to be a smart aleck, but that's what the code says, and if it hasn't been replaced in 100k miles, it's a good place to start.

    Aside from the code, from your symptoms I would think you need new spark plugs and wires.
  • swimmer1swimmer1 Posts: 2
    doohickie -

    thank you for the advice, I suspected as much, on the EGR code, but have never had this problem with a car before, and didn't know how complex these things could get, I understand there are relays, vacum systems, sensors, etc... involved....

    Looks like I'll start with the valve and go from there...

    The plugs and wires are a good advice as well, although I've had bad wires before, and it tended to cause more of a miss and backfire, but it is still worth looking into

    Thanks for the help!
  • I looked around in a few other forums on the net, and it seems that alot of people who get that code either ignore it, and just keep clearing the code. Or instead of replacing the EGR Valve they clean it in carb cleaner (making sure not to get any on the electronic parts).
  • jfl330jfl330 Posts: 1
    I just got rid of my Continental's at 47K miles, loud, hard, terrible when wet.
    Put on a set of Turanza LS-T's, best tire I have ever ridden on.
    Can't recommend them highly enough.
    Check on snow rating if applicable, isn't here in Florida!
  • brucer2brucer2 Posts: 157
    The two most common causes for that code is:

    1 - A bad DPFE sensor (a description of the EGR system is here:

    2 - The channel that goes between the EGR valve and the intake is clogged. The channel is in face of the intake manifold where the throttle body mounts. The throttle body needs to be removed and the channel cleared out. A new throttle body gasket needs to be used.

    The EGR valve itself does not usually go bad.
  • jrejre Posts: 6
    Does anyone know how difficult it is and what all has to be removed to replace the bearing in the air conditioner clutch on a 1996 Taurus with 3.0 engine. Thanks
  • Whenever I put my car in reverse, the radio cuts out. It returns when I get out of reverse. Can anyone help?

    The car has 60,000 miles on it.
  • sph2sph2 Posts: 1
    My ac unit clutch is also bad and have not got one yet but I believe that the only fix is to buy a clutch or a whole new unit. The clutch is about $100.00 and the whole unit is about $180.00 at a part store. In either case the bad news is that the system has to be broken, so you will have to have someone recharge the ac system, of course I believe mine was about due for a check up, so no big deal.
    Good Luck
  • azuazu Posts: 84
    I have a 95 Bonny with same issue. I'll be doing the same thing soon!


    I have 2 vehicles and thought I was in the Pontiac Forum! Sorry! :confuse:
  • taurus3taurus3 Posts: 1
    I own a 1997 Ford Taurus GL, 3.0L V6, it 's check engine light is on and i had it checked and the code #P0411 came up and it states, circuit relay defective or fuse open. Check connector & wiring, Air pump defective or blocked hose, I have tried to find a clear diagram and testing procedures of this system and all parts involved with no luck. I would appreciate any help from someone that knows how to rectify this problem. Thank you very much. Mike
  • I had the same symptoms and after replacing all the sensors on the thing after every mechanic said "EGR's don't just go. It's probably a bad sensor" and resetting the thing I took it to a place that said "Oh! It's dirty channels."

    I thought he was talking voodoo but he took the lid off the engine, showed me the carbon all over the place in there, cleaned it out and it's been peachy ever since.
  • jrolfjrolf Posts: 24
    does anyone know how you remove the lower ball joints on a 1998 ford taurus?
  • 541541 Posts: 1
    Hello, Can anyone tell me what would cause a 3.0L to be hard starting, hesitate on take off and backfire through the intake? Seems to happen at a certaint throttle position. runs fine after you get going.
  • About a month ago we had a very very hot day, and my car which is automatic transmission stalled about 5 times. Power would still all be there, but the engine would shut down, and I woudld have to turn it off and start up again. I figured this must of been the engine over heating, so i drained and flushed the cooling system. I thought the problem was solved until today. We had another hot day today it was over 100F. You could feal when you were starting again after a red light, you could feal the engine want to stall, and you could watch the RPM fall and then spike up again when you gave it some gas. Then it finally stalled on me, luckly I was close to home, and just came straight home. Does anyone know what could be causing this. Also on both ocasions when this happened I had the air conditioning on.
    Thanks, Dave
  • 2000 Ford Taurus 24V DOHC mileage: 156500. I have a starting problem in the car. After the car has been sitting for a while, it has a hard start upon turning the ignition key. Upon turning the key, it either cranks for an unusually long time before it starts, or I need to step on the throttle to make it start. This has been happening in hot weather or cold weather. Problem started happening intermittently and now I experience it every day. However, if the car is started when it has been sitting for less than 2-3 hours it starts up fine anddrives fine with no hesitations. I have taken it to the mechanic three times already and they have performed several diagnostic tests without success. They have replaced the crank sensor, coolant temp. sensor and fuel filter. Unfortunately, it has not solved the problem. Can you provide me with any new ideas what could be cauing this? I ve been told either a bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump.
  • My 96 taurus has 82k miles and its finally dead. new transmision put in 3 months back ($1600) and now more problems with front axels engine AC and more. I feel you pain buddy.
  • timothyftimothyf Posts: 40
    Hi I have a 96 LX with 117k miles. When I start forward from a standstill, no problem. When I start forward from a standstill pressing down on the accelerator normally, there's a hesitation, slight rumbling, and the tires will chirp a little. There's no problem in first once the car is moving. Shifting up and down through all the gears is fine. Any one have any ideas what is wrong? Thanks, Tim
  • ohio7ohio7 Posts: 67
    Well, two months ago I was bragging about not having to have anything done to my car (except recalls/warranty work) in the six years that I've had it, but right after that post I started to have hesitation while driving and more so while at a stop. Took it in to a good mechanic (and honest) and the code said #3 cylinder. He went ahead and replaced all 6 plugs and a coil to #3 since he had everything off. Yeah, I was mad that I had to have a tune-up at only 34,000 miles instead of 100,000 but labor is expensive in my area and plugs are relatively inexpensive.

    Still had trouble so he sent me to another place that had the equipment to totally clean out the carbon deposits that I had (because I put less than 5000 miles in a year, mostly city). It is a system by BG 44K (or something like that recommended by Pat Goss of Motorweek). Also had the transmission fluid changed by the same companies system and antifreeze. Still had the problem. :mad:

    Back to the original mechanic - over and over again. No light came on even though it was still hesitating. Short long story. Light finally can on and it only shows that it was the 6th cylinder this time, but the plug was new and the coil produced a spark so instead of just changing everything and running up my bill he decided it must be the plug boot. To make sure that it was, he switched it to the #5 cylinder and last night code P305 came up instead of P306. He then ordered me a boot which is only $18 vs. $104 for a coil. It will be installed on Wed.

    Hope this helps some of you do-it-yourselfers which on this car I'm not.

    Last August I had Ford replace the DPFE sensor under the extended warrenty and the engine light went off till this June.

    Also decided to replace my over 6-year-old battery.
  • gmhellmangmhellman Posts: 121
    My mother in law just bought a 2006 Ford Taurus SEL for 12,700 on the road (ttl included honestly). When we were test driving it I noticed a rubbing sound and vibration in the steering wheel. The dealer replaced the passenger wheel bearing. We have now purchased the vehicle and I am noticing that the drivers wheel bearing is acting up now. I am not worried being that we have the factory bumper to bumper warranty still, but is there any recurrent issues that we need to watch out for in the vehicle before the warranty runs out? The vehicle only has 17,219 miles on it so we have some time? I love the car (Tungsten Metallic with the power driver with lumbar and cloth, keypad entry system, split rear seats, auto-dimming rear mirrors.) I actually enjoy the ride and the spaciousness of the car.
  • kimanijkimanij Posts: 2
    Did your fiend get the stalling issue resolved? And if so what did they say the problem was? I'm having the same problem.
  • kimanijkimanij Posts: 2
    Were you having issues with your car stalling & shutting off before they replaces the sensor and after they replaced it did the probelm stop?
  • Hi Mike, did you ever get information on the wiring diagram? I have the same problems with my 97 Taurus. How did you rectify the problem? My local mechanic says I need to replace the air pump unit. thanks
  • larybalaryba Posts: 1
    Did you ever get an answer - I have exactly the same problem
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