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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • I am having the same problem in my 97 wagon... started after I held the accelerator down and cranked the key.I think I flooded it as well cause I smelled gas :mad: Can you tell me where that valve is located? I have been running out to my car all day now to see if it still cranks !!! :surprise: LOL
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    They are lights under the side view mirrors that light up when you unlock the doors. They illuminate the street/sidewalk area next to the front doors so you can see if you are going to step into a puddle when you enter and exit the car at night.
  • rectacrectac Posts: 4
    same here same year.cannot find gave up.
  • rectacrectac Posts: 4
    You are doin just fine. you should be grateful to the work the excellent tech did to keep it running. That lite is so minor . further, a hundred hrs might be needed to chase the thousands of possible connections that can cause it.
    That tech is not clueless, you just have to put up with a little lump here and there. Be happy at 190k and give a tip and praise to the tech. Wow
  • moerodmoerod Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 Sable LS Premium with 112000 miles. I replaced the lower ball joints and control arms (i believe thats what they where they were white plastic bracket aboout 12" long) about a year ago, thats alll thats been changed on the front end. Now about 2 months ago i started hearing squeaking at the front of the car while driving. If i pushed up and down on the car while parked i heard the same thing. Now i also hear a squeaking when i apply the brakes (it is not the brakes they are new. I was told by a few that it could be the ball joints but my mechani says he offered no warrantee. Now as i've done some research i've seen these separator tools and such. Whn my mechanic istalled them i remeber him going at it whith a sledge harmer and pipe. needless to say i don't go to him anymore.

    Anyway i want to replace the lower ball joints myself, i'm pretty capable but just need to know what are the proper tools i will need, i'm also going to install the Monroe Quick Struts (Strut and coil assembly in one) while i'm at it.

    Help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • moeohmoeoh Posts: 13
    Glad to help.
    ~23mm socket for axle nut, Female torx bit for ABS sensor ?#7?, XXX Ball joint fork to separate, ball joint puller to remove, ball joint press to install., Spring compressor for springs. tools after the xxx are rentable for 0$ from autozone when you buy the parts.
    You will need a torch to heat the joint at the control arm and in the hub assy (possibly) MAP gas at least.
    do yourself a favor- replace the hub bearing assy and axle shaft at the same time
    Remove tire, brake caliper,(13mm) support it off to the side.
    remove ABS sensor(torx bit not sure size)
    Use spring compressor to collapse spring (rent from parts store)
    Loosen axle nut ?size but its a big one maybe 23mm?
    you will nee a puller tool to push the axle out of the hub.
    (BTW I would replace the wheel hub as well as long as you have it apart)
    break the BJ loose with a screw press also from the auto parts store or use a seperator fork, but there is no going back if you use the fork, it rips the boot.
    once it is separated your choice is to replace it on the car or off. If you are changing the struts than I would do it off the car.
    I am getting long winded. if you need more call. its in chiltons
  • moeohmoeoh Posts: 13
    Had the same problem and just cut it off and let it go inside the franme rail. Did not result in a noise or interfere with the new mount.
  • moeohmoeoh Posts: 13
    Sorry to see this so late but I have the sam problem. It is not a tire problem yet it occured or became noticible to me just after new tires.
    I am convinced it is a CV problem or flywheel imbalance (stretch) I would say CV except I replaced them about 4 months ago so it would have to be defective part?

    Vibration seem to be on left side, only present over 35 mph. more pronounced during accel or under load.
    anyone have some insight or a solution.
    120k on sable ls
  • moeohmoeoh Posts: 13
    This is way old but I hope it helps someone.
    I have sable and Taurus They never stayed aligned but always showed OK on the printout. It was not until I kept bring it back to ford that they got it right by adjusting the toe in. not a big deal you say. well it involves cutting welds on the top of the shock tower so nobody wants to do it. looks ugly but fixed the problem. apparently the TI is set at the factory and never expected to be adjusted.
  • moeohmoeoh Posts: 13
    I am looking for this one as well. please let me know if you hear something.
    I was thinking it might have something to do with the flywheel? I did tune the engine and the vibration subsided a little.
  • rmc52rmc52 Posts: 1
    Summer 06 my 2000 Tarus Wagon had a cracked reservor Did not overheat. Had replaced. Everything seemed fine. Then it started overflowing at reservor had new cap put on then it quit puting out heat reservor low on water then would overflow the garage says it has cracke head no milky oil. can drive 70 on interstate. at times has a slight hesatation. I have had reservor replaced again. Now not overflowing but is staying overfull. Does this sound like a cracked head any ideas? RMC52
  • badgerfan,where are you?LOl. Last week my 97 would only start after several attempts. After holding the accelerator to the floor. Then it would crank all day. This would happen every three days or so. Now it won't :sick: turn over at all. It cranks srong but I get nothing. Tried jumping it off as well.Starter solenoid finally went? If so, How do I find it?I am a single mom with a small baby and this really,really stinks! 3.02v
  • O.K.I am back with more info . Going on day three with no wheels (getting stir crazy) and had someone check to see if there was a spark to any of my plugs. There weren't,soooo now I am being told the ignition coil needs replaced .The starter is working fine and the fuel pump is working, the car cranks, but won,t turn over. Any suggestions anyone?
  • mcm020mcm020 Posts: 9
    '03 Ford Taurus Sedan 3.0 Vulcan, 12L, 72K miles, haven't had too many problems, the AC wasn't working properly it was kicking on & off somtimes... it was just a faulty switch from the fuse panel under the hood, $12 at dealer, easily fixed. Now, the fan won't work right, using heater mostly now, but if I put on cool, still does same thing - fan will ONLY work on HIGH setting! Could it be the switch or something? Also, I just recently a squeling noise from the dash over on the passanger side, only makes noise when I turn the fan on, lol, on high. ANY help would work! Please! email me if your sure you know, [email protected]
  • mcm020mcm020 Posts: 9
    I'm not sure if it's the same w/ Merc's, but I'm on my 2nd ford, and I used to have a '93 ford, and it did the same thing, couldn't figure out what it was, wouldn't turn over... well go figure, there's a fuel system shut off switch... located in a little cargo compartment in the trunk, and it had a little red button on the top, I pushed the button, and it started right up. Maybe that's it, idk? Hope it helps.
  • "The fuse panel or block is located on most vehicles covered by this manual is located to the left of the steering column tube, and is hung from the instrument panel. To gain access to the fuses, pull the release bar up with the right hand, pull the fuse panel down with the left hand, then remove the two bolts from the cover."

    Source: the Chilton Manual section 6-48.

    Now then, I bought a used 95 Sable two months ago. The radio doesn't work. Which fuse is for the radio or where is something to tell what fuse is where on that panel/block?
    I'd like a schematic.

  • My 99 Taurus fan worked only on the two highest postions until yesterday. Now it works only on the highest position. Yesterday I could smell plastic burning or at least heating inside the car.

    As I understand the fan's circuit concept, there are only two things that should cause the problem. Obviously the switch is one and the second is the resistor. I have not found this thing yet but intend to look for it tomorrow. The resistor is used to lower the voltage supplied to the fan resulting in a lower speed.

    I was told the resistor is (one, two or thee of them??) located in the engine compartment between the horn and the WS wash tank. I could not even find the horn. My Ford CD claims the resistor is located somewhere behind/below the center of the glove compartment. The resistor/s is/are most likely round, maybe ceramic with one common wire and wires provided for each fan speed other than the high speed.

    More later--

  • There aren't any bolts on the cover that I can see...The owner's manual says to "push up on the arrow" then pull the cover out. But there isn't any arrow either!! I'll be able to tell you what fuse is for the radio in my next message..
  • mcm020mcm020 Posts: 9
    thanks for the info. on the other hand, is it easy to replace the switch? What/where would this switch be to even see if it's broken, is it a electrical type switch? or literally, the switch from the dash? OR, is it more likely that the resistor is going out? I called my local auto parts store, they said they only had a relay for the blower motor, could that be what your talking about? $8 at the local auto parts. I can't even find a chilton to tell me what else this could be??? Let me know if you find anything else out.
  • One other thing; make sure you use distilled water. If you use tap, or even soft water, galvanic corrosion will cause really fast deterioration. Use ONLY distilled water.
  • Do NOT use heat on your front end. You will destroy the balljoint, and even if you do intend to replace it you could also damage the wheel bearing, CV joint and anything else in the neighborhood whether by burning the rubber, making the grease run away, or softening the parts by annealing out any heat treatment done to them. Torches are for people with the wrong tools. Period. I posted this about ball joints on my Sable a while ago, and it worked for me. But I think the squeal you hear is probably from the shocks; I'd suggest you just replace those first.

    #2443 of 2545 Re: lower ball joints 98 ford taurus [jrolf] by rmncoknme Aug 18, 2006 (2:56 am)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
    Replying to: jrolf (Jul 29, 2006 7:35 pm)

    I have the Haynes manual; it's not in there.... So when I went to replace mine it was all by sight and feel. Anyway it worked. You'll need a press kit, I hate it when they say "bash it out, then smash the new one in". So, simple things skipped....

    Remove the wheel bearing nut, it's about 30mm (you should need a breaker bar). Jack up that side of the car, support on the frame rail where the driveshaft goes through it. Remove wheel. Remove brake pads, caliper, caliper support, disc. Loosen and remove nut on bottom of ball joint. Remove the lower part of the plastic support from the suspension (white thing about a foot long). Remove the end of the steering tie-rod from the steering knuckle (you'll probably need to press it out).

    Loosen the nuts/bolts on the lower control arm where it is attached to the frame; if you don't it's really hard to remove the other end from the balljoint stud (my trick to you).... Using a press, push the balljoint out from the control arm, so now it's just held in by being pressed into the steering knuckle.

    Get a steel pipe nipple about 2.5" long (actually get several, in 0.5" increments in this area) and 3/4" diameter, thread a cap onto that. Put that over the balljoint so it rests agains the top part of the balljoint that is pressed into the steering knuckle. Now use a press to get it out.

    Probably it's necessary to remove the steering knuckle, but at this point it is just by loosening the pinch bolt on the strut. This makes it easier to press in the new balljoint.

    For assembly, it's reverse of removal. One trick though. When tightening the nut at the bottom of the balljoint, put the car's weight on the control arm so the friction between the tapered surfaces will stop the balljoint from spinning.

    Good luck....
  • I also have an 03 Taurus. I noticed yesterday that the fan ONLY works on high. I do remember smelling rubber burning when I first drove the car in the morning. It didn't smell like wire burning, it smelled like rubber. I thought it was outside from another car at the time. Now I think something is related to the fan problem.
    I'm going to go out and have a look at things. My guess it's the resistor, but finding it isn't going to be easy, plus it is 29 degrees and I'll be in snow checking this out :-(

  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    My 2001 had the same problem. The fan resistor caused the problem. It is a rectangular shaped piece located on the fan motor behind the glove box. It has an electrical connector to is, and if I remember right, the connector has 2 wires running to it. Lay in the passenger side floor, and you will see it. The resistor is available at your dealer, about $15.00 or so. The squealing sound may be a fan motor issue. Some Taurus' have a problem with water leaking from the the front cowl, right below the windshield wiper, which covers the cabin air filter. If this cowl piece is not sealed properly, water leaks down and gets into the fan, causing it to rust. On mine, the fan motor itself is working fine, I only had the resistor problem.
  • mcm020mcm020 Posts: 9
    Thanks for the help. I will probably just replace this resistor and see if that fixes it. It's funny you mention the water leaking from the cowel... the winshield wiper fluid line has broken more than once, and a I just tape it closed... I will let you know if replacing the resistor fixes the problem. Thanks for all the help!
  • I found my problem. It is a bad fan switch. First I pulled the glove box (03 Taurus) then unscrewed the 2 screws holding the resistor unit in. The resistor looked good, no broken elements.
    I then pulled the radio out and unhooked the fan switch wiring harness. I used a jumper wire in the harness to varify that the fan works on all speeds. It does, so the switch is bad. I left the jumper wire hooked up to the medium speed until I get a new switch.
    The switch is only held with one screw and is very eay to change.
    Anyone know of a decent place on line to get the switch? I don't live close to any stealerships.
  • mcm020mcm020 Posts: 9
    danford1, that sounds like what I'm looking at... not literally... I would like to find a manual before I start ripping apart my dash, I guess chilton doesn't make them for an entire repair manual for an 03, do you know if haynes makes them? Or another one I could use? Also, yeah, I checked my local parts store, they said the electical fan switch is a dealer part...
  • No I don't know of any repair manuals. I haven't looked yet. This car is "new to me", I bought it used. This is the first problem I had with it.

    I did find the switch on line. I searched for 2003 Taurus heater fan switch in Yahoo. After a few picks, I found a dealer website and found the part. It was $9.92 so I ordered it. The shipping was $6.95 though. I was too lazy to try a dealer in my area so I just paid the shipping and ordered it.

  • The radio fuse is #11 in the fusebox beside the steering wheel. Now, how do you get the cover off of the fuse box?? There aren't any bolts to remove...nor is there an arrow to "push up on" !!! Thanks for any help!
  • I had the "high speed fan" problem that I fixed yesterday. It was the resistor, purchased a new one from a Ford dealer for $16-.

    I found the manuals such as Haynes to lack the details I search when trying to do repairs. What is somewhat better is a Ford Service & Repair CD-Rom. I do not know if they are actually the same disks used by the dealers but they do have far more info than the repair books.

    I purchased several for different cars on EBay for less than $15 each, delivered. You may want to at least look at this avenue for alternate ideas.

    Good luck---

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