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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • Don't go by no broken wire appearance on the resistor, in the upper center main wire you will see like a small thicker tubular piece, this is filled with wax and has a circut breaker inside and if this over heats it will stick open, use a jump wire to bypass it and then check your fan speeds, it least you can confirm if the resistor needs replacing or not. I had the same problem and it was the resistor.
  • mcm020mcm020 Posts: 9
    I'll check both the resistor & the switch... but I apologize, I'm not familiar w/ a jump wire??? is that anything other than using another wire and just hook it up to the fan switch to see if the switch works properly?
  • Yes . A jump wire is nothing more than a piece of wire you use to jump across different terminal.
    I used about a 3" piece of wire and stuck it in the wiring connector coming from the cars wiring harness. The black wire is the 12 volt power wire. The other wires are the different fan speeds. Once I found medium speed, I put crimped on spade connectors to my jumper wire and pushed them into the wiring harness and left the fan on medium.
    I couldn't stand the noise of the fan on high, so I picked medium...
    I ordered the switch so when it comes I can remove the jumper wire and plug in the switch.
  • I purchased a remote door opener on EBay for my 99 Taurus. Problem is I cannot get the car into a program mode nor for that matter can I find anything under the dash that looks like a RAP module. No module, no remote door unlock so I read.

    Has anybody added a RAP module to a similar vehicle? Was the car wired for the RAP??

    I just added cruise control, was suprised that all the needed wiring was in place for the upgrade except for the steering wheel's electrical bus along with the shroud that fits under the wheel. I quickly changed the wheel electrical bus along with the shroud. Had to swap the air bag also. My point in mentioning this upgrade is all the wiring was put there by Ford. I would be surprised if the wiring for a RAP module is not there.......... but then again, I don't exactly know where the RAP fits along with what the wiring harness for it looks like.

    Thanks for reading this far---

  • pepper4pepper4 Posts: 10
    I replaced the radiator cap , What is the low pressure model and what is the location of it? I have a 3.0 v6 with
    manual controls for fan and temp. When the other heater cores leaked they fogged the inside of the windows all up.They never got the carport wet.

  • moeohmoeoh Posts: 13
    you can by replacement caps good for different pressure ranges at Autozone or pep boys.
    I think I went with 10-15 psi? but not sure. I went with the lowest pressure available.
    They usually also come with a red pressure relief toggle on the cap if that helps you spot it. simply replace the regular cap and the whole system runs at a lower pressure, so less prone to leaks.
    It does run hotter however in hot weather but has not been a problem in Ohio.
  • hvye1hvye1 Posts: 1
  • I had the same problem on my 2002 Sable. Here is the information from two postings I received when I asked. Not that tough, take your time.

    - Dave

    One of the two screws for that trim piece is under the door trim.
    You could try to get in there with a flexible screwdriver set. You'd have to remove the one panel screw that is on the hinge side of the door.
    Then try to pull the top of the panel by the mirror off a little bit to fit in that screwdriver.

    IF it's a power mirror you're going to have to bite the bullet and remove the trim panel. It's really not that hard. You just need a trim pad removal tool (less than $10) and a phillips screwdriver. Remove the phillips screws holding in the arm rest and then pop out the Christmas tree fasteners along the edge of the door. Peel back the vapor barrier to disconnect the power connector to the mirror, and pop off the trim piece behind the mirror. Total job is less than an hour.

    No need to remove the vapor barrier, the harness is on the outside of it.
    Don't forget to remove the 5 screws around the outer perimeter of the door along with the 2 by the door handle.

    - You have to remove the door panel to get to the lower screw on the sail panel.
    - The connector is just below the sail panel behind the door panel
    - The Painted part is an insert, but to warn you, its a PITA to get it off without breaking the clips, if you do break 'em, just stick it back on with 3m double sided tape.
    - I don't know anything about the ebay ones
  • I seem to have the same problem (Fan Only works on High). I plan on troubleshooting the resistor. Would it be possible for this problem to also take out the stereo? Yes I know anything is possible but has anyone heard of this additional problem or is it coincidental(sp)?
  • 2003 Taurus, 3.0L V-6, 70K Miles.
    (1) Fan motor only works on High. Plan to trouble-shoot resistor.
    (2) Radio is completely dead. Plan to trace wire bundle for possible short or contamination from the leaking cabin filter that took out the Fan Motor resistor. Have a back-up radio if I can't find anything.
    (3) Motor surges when a heavy load or foot is put on it. First encountered while CC was on and going up a hill.... scared the heck out of me.... Works fine when using gradual acceleration. Have no plan of attack for this yet. Looking for advice?
    The other problems sound familiar from the previous post but I haven't seen any on the surging problem.
  • I bought a new switch from the Ford dealer. It did the same thing, fan only worked on high.
    I then bought the resistor pack. That fixed the problem.
    Now I have a brand new Ford switch I can't take back.
    Anyone want to buy it?
    I'll sell it for $17.50 with FREE shipping to the USA.

  • '95 Mercury Sable

    Having drivebelt/alternator/electrical charging problems...
    Brought the diSABLEd into Sears auto center for a tension pulley
    replacement, as that pulley that was part of the serpentine assembly
    disintegrated for mysterious reasons. Got the car back, with a new belt
    and tension pulley/arm, (which should automatically adjust the tension, on the belt, right?) and was still having problems getting the alternator to charge the battery. (battery is <6months old, jumping is instantly successful) It would squeal when accelerating and the alternator was real hot to the touch. Went back to Sears and they said it was because of a bad alternator, so I took it home and installed the new (refurbished) alternator myself. The battery is still not being charged while running, and the new alternator still gets real hot and is wearing away my new Sears belt, you can see by the rubber splash pattern that the problem seems to be isolated to the alternator pulley. It still squeals from the alternator pulley when the engine is being revved, also. Is this an isolated electrical ground problem somewhere else, or what gives? I'm all out of ideas, so any help is appreciated.
  • If no warning lights are coming on and my 96 Sable is beeping several times when the car starts and now when I drive it long distances it randomly beeps, how do I know what's wrong? My car hasn't smoked or smelled strange, & nothing seems to be working any differently. Should I be worried that it's serious? I've read my entire owners manual and still have no idea. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 61,440
    which alarm is going off?

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  • that's exactly what I don't know. no indicator lights are illuminating to tell me what's wrong & nowhere in the owner's manual does it say what the beeps mean. there are 4 high pitched beeps, a pause then more beeps. it does this a total of 5 times. for about a week this happened only when the car started, but I took a 5 hour trip and it did it about 4 times whle moving as well.

    I don't know if this is related or not, but my airbag light used to flash becaue there are no longer bags installed and my engine light WAS on due to a DPFE (or some initials like that) sensor that is going bad.....those 2 lights are no longer on.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 61,440
    Well maybe someone who actually owns a similar car can comment. I have no idea on this one.

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  • waiwai Posts: 327
    My fuel cap light will not go off for almost one month after I forgot to close the fuel cap. At first I thought my fuel cap is kind of loose and cannot shut tight and put a new one on.
    Still cannot let the fuel cap light go off. Can I disconnect the battery to get rid of the light?
  • Hi everyone,

    I own a 1997 Mercury Sable Vulcan V6. I've noticed lately that if I bring the car to a complete stop and then turn left as soon as I hit around 20-40Km/h I can hear a howling noise from the front end. If I tap the brakes the sound will dissapear for a small amount of time. Once my speed has gone past 40Km/h the sound goes away. Could this be my wheel bearings?
  • rchauhanrchauhan Posts: 4
    2000 Taurus Wagon, I have the same problem - The fuel gauge light is burnt out and need to replace the bulb. Other lights are working.
    Can someone help.
    How to do it and what to avoid.
  • The previous owner SWORE the ignition key will work for the trunk. NOT, it's shaped differently. How to open the trunk without a key? Locksmith?

  • w9cww9cw Posts: 888
    Last week, my wife and I purchased a 2000 Mercury Sable LS Premium for our daughter who recently graduated from university. It has the 3.0L Duratec 24V V6, and the AX4N transaxle. The car was purchased from a private party, and has 36K on the clock.

    Apparently, power steering pump problems are quite typical for the vehicle. The PS pump makes quite a bit of noise when the steering is on center, but more so when turning from lock to lock. From my experience, it sounds like an aeration and cavitation problem, rather than an actual PS pump failure. I know the Ford shop manual specifically goes through the purging/bleeding procedure thoroughly for this system.

    I took it to a good independent shop, and they stated that there's also a screen in the external PS fluid reservoir that can become clogged which can exacerbate the problem. Moreover, the specified PS fluid is Ford-spec MERCON ATF, and I will be willing to bet the previous owner used standard PS fluid to top the system off in past years from the looks of the fluid in the external reservoir.

    The shop's first step is to flush the existing fluid, clean the screen in the reservoir, and then refill with ATF, and bleed the system. And, then go from there . . .

    Any thoughts on this from anyone more experienced with this on the Sable and Taurus with the non-integrated PS pump/reservoir system would be greatly appreciated.
  • danielj6danielj6 Posts: 285
    My 2000 Sable wagon had the same problem you describe. After replacing the steering fluid pump and bleeding the system, the next step would've been replacing the rack and pinion. The noise became was loud only while turning the steering wheel.

    I never found out the precise fix for the problem because after a collision the car was unfortunately declared a total loss.
  • blkwingblkwing Posts: 1
    does anyone out there know what type of transmission is in a standard ford taurus gl year 1995 3.0 litre please help pending finding right transmission for afriend
  • geoff813geoff813 Posts: 2
    There are 2 versions used 94-95. The AX4N and AX4S. The ID tag and a parts yard with a Hollanders manual can get you the correct one. A 93 AX4S will also work but you have to change wiring at the plug. Just one of Ford's better ideas to confuse, confound and overcharge.
  • bobby19bobby19 Posts: 2
    Hi, my 1993 taurus started making that clicking sound when turning, I assumed it was the cv joint, so I took it to a shop and he 'said' he replaced both axles, the car still makes that noise so I take it back to him and he says that noise is the ball joint and its not really a big problem. Anyone out there know if this sounds reasonable?
  • My 2000 Taurus has 125000 Miles. I have a 2000 Sable With 78000 Miles. They both have 24vDOHC Duratec Motor' s. They have 6 individual ignition coil's per cylinder. I had to replace one of them on my Taurus they are $100.00.The sable i put a coolant tank in it to shut my low coolant light off. And struts and ball joint' s. But that's the only problems i've had with the two cars. So if you get a sable or taurus Make sure it has a 24V DOHC Motor in it!!! :shades:
  • I can't find anything for my 2000 Sable. It has a 24v DOHC.
  • Do you still have the Alternator that came off the car before the problem? The pulley on the new alternator might be to small .
  • Hi, I have a 98 taurus with 122,900 miles that I'm going to get the trans fluid changed in. Now my question...Should I get all the fluid changed with a flush where they don't drop the pan and change the filter or should I just have them drop the pan and change the filter and just the fluid that comes out with the pan off? The last and only time the trans fluid (out of the pan) and filter was changed was at about 60,000 miles. Trans seems to down shifting alot when I let off the gas in slower traffic lately (30-40 mph). Thanks for your thoughts.
  • danford1danford1 Posts: 10
    Here is what I did. I pulled the pan and changed the filter. I also let the trans drip overnight to get as much fluid out of it as possible (about 7 qts). I then put a drain plug on the trans pan. I reinstalled the pan and put in 7 qts Mercon V. I drove around to warm up trans, pulled the drain plug, added 7 qts, drove around, drained it, added 7 qts etc. I ran 28 qts through it. To me, this makes sure ALL the fluid got changed plus it has a new filter.
    Now, every 18,000 or 20,000 miles I can drain off 7 qts and add 7 to refresh the fluid. At 50,000 miles, I'll run 28 qts through it again.
    Most people will tell you they only get about 6 qts out of the trans. That is true. BUT, if you read enough info on the Taurus trannies you will find where they say to add 1 qt over the full mark on the dip stick. Don't do this with a rear wheel drive car ! It is OK on the Taurus though :-)>

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