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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • ondarkoaondarkoa Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong with your Taurus? This same thing just happened to me this week and I would prefer to fix it myself. Thank-you, this would really help me out!
  • oldbug59oldbug59 Posts: 2
    Hi I'm a new owner of a Sable. It's 1996 with only 23,000 miles on it. The ultimate little old lady car. Anyway, My son has manage to break the wipers. The motor is operational However the the wipers do not move. How difficult is it to fix this?
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Posts: 228
    Does the 2008 Sable and Taurus come from the factory with synthetic oil in the crankcase?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Ford factory oil is a synthetic BLEND, also the oil used for replacement in the dealerships.
  • rogerb34rogerb34 Posts: 30
    Its Motorcraft 5W-20 syn blend. Syn blend is max 30 pct syn oil, balance is standard. Likely 15 percent though no oil company advertises the percentage. Meets latest API M rating. Excellent buy DIY for around $12/5 qt container.
  • rogerb34rogerb34 Posts: 30
    Since OBD1, engines are optimized for higher operating temps. Really bad to use lower temp thermostat with OBD2 and heated O2 sensors. The PCM maps to the proper advance setting for the grade of gasoline in use. The advance gives mpg and performance. Advance is "learned" from the knock sensor picking up incipient detonation. Vulcan is 9:1 compression and no point in other than regular 87 octane. The 05 Duratec is 10.5:1 and will effectively use higher octane gasoline but will also adjust for regular. Cost efficiency is the main issue. Lowering engine operating temperature means higher emissions. Higher emissions mean HC unburned gasoline and CO partially burned gasoline. Don't know about you but for me, I want max mpg per gallon and the benefit is lower emissions. Doubt an increase in HP duet to a cooler engine because the system is designed for higher operating temp and the PCM would require reprogramming and dyno testing.
  • tmp888tmp888 Posts: 20
    I have a 2003 Taurus SEL (3.0L 24V) and it is leaking oil (approx. 2 to 3 drops/week on the drive day). Does anyone have similar problem? I'm pretty sure that the oil filter is tightly closed.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    My '01 Vulcan motor did the same thing. Leak was at the oil pan gasket. A little pricey to fix becuase they had to pull the motor to get to it. Gasket itself is cheap.
  • I hae a 92 taurus with 99,000 miles on it. Recently my water pump blew & because it wasnt reading hot. I tried to make it to the next town (no cell) but it stalled after about 2 miles. I had it towed to a goodyear station (mistake) & they told me that the headgasket fried. That would be more than the car is worth (evin though its is in good condition for a 16 yr old) Im NOT reparing it if it is the head gasket & who knows if the head itself is not cracked. I dont trust what goodyear is telling me (had some issues in the past) I dont se any coolant in the oil Wich tells me that they are full of it. Im wondering if it is just a water pump?

    It also idles ruff & is hard to start. If there is a mechanic that could give me some advise that would be of major help.

    P.s they tried for a second time to buy my car for realy cheep. first time was with a sunfire. I dont think so.that made me suspitious.
  • urapigurapig Posts: 1
    I have replaced the starter switch on a 97 taurus and since found out that the linkage between that and the key does not move when key is turned. How do I get to and fix this linkage? Is it possible to do without ripping whole steering column apart?
  • > I had it towed to a goodyear station (mistake) & they told me that the headgasket fried.

    Probably too late to be of help, but maybe it will help others...

    The Taurus had know head gasket problems to the extent that Ford put a program into place to reimburse people for head gasket repairs out of warranty (a court settlement I believe). I have no idea if the program is expired, but it might be worth checking with a Ford dealer if your head gasket blows.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Can we have a split into Pre 2008 Taurus and Post 2008 Taurus as the 2 vehicles are completely unrelated?
  • I have to change the rear wheel bearings on my '97 Taurus Wagon. I can't find anything in the Haynes Repair Manual in relation to it other than how to replace the rear wheel spindle. I was wondering if you have to replace the whole thing or can you just replace the bearings themselves?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I was just reading through and thinking the same thing. I created a new discussion for just that.
  • Geez you would think it was the serpentine belt from the way it sounds (your water pump wouldn't turn so it would get hot very quickly, and your alternator wouldn't turn so the light would come on). Stupid question, but are all of the pulleys turning?

    Next thing... as far as your car not wanting to run... your car's computer is very sensitive, and if the electronics are not just right it will act like you describe - start but not have enough juice to move. If your battery starts going bad your alternator will work overtime trying to keep it charged and will kill itself in the process. If your car has to run on the battery alone it will run like what you describe. Change them both out at the same time.

    Hey, just throwing out ideas here, hope it works though still not sure about why the overheating. Best of luck... k
  • You did say you drove the car to the dealership right? So the car wasn't totally gone yet and you didn't imply that it got their by the skin of its teeth.

    So let me guess... the bad news either made them wealthy in repair fees or it convinced you to look at their selection of new or used cars while you were there. If you bought one from them, wouldn't it have been interesting to learn how much money they had to put into fixing up your old car - once they got it from you for a song (after telling you it needed a new engine I don't guess they gave you much for a trade in).

    I know this is late in coming, but for those who read this post later... I had a friend with a newer Bronco. It started running a bit rough so he took it to our local Ford Dealership in Titusville, FL (you know who you are). They gave it the once over and gave him an estimate of $5,800 to make it run right.

    After my friend woke up on the floor after his heart attack, he drove it home and that weekend took it to a friend of his who worked at a Ford Dealership in Georgia. The Bronco needed less than $100 dollars in parts and it ran as good as new. So don't you believe everything you're told even if you're at what should be a reputable repair shop (especially a new or used car dealer where you're going to pay through the nose anyway). Buyer beware. ;)
  • ss3251ss3251 Posts: 1
    The battery light on my dash lights up, but I don't know why.
    I changed the battery and the cables, but still it lights up.
    Any Ideas??
    Would this have to do with alternator??
    2001 Ford Taurus SE

    Serpentine belt had been squeeking, so I replaced that at same time as battery and cables..
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Yes; the indicator light that looks like a battery will typically indicate a problem with the charging system in most vehicles. Charging system = alternator.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Yes; the indicator light that looks like a battery will typically indicate a problem with the charging system in most vehicles. Charging system = alternator.
  • mc_catermc_cater Posts: 1
    Hi, I am new to the site but did try looking up my problem but couldn't find anything.
    My interlocking front stabilizer bar is loose. I did talk to the dealership and they said to replace it and then I talked to someone else and they said that it could be tightened and another mechanic told me it wasn't actually needed and to ignore it. What should I actually do about it?
  • sidmanmsidmanm Posts: 1
    So, I'm interested in your thoughts on this as before I bought the Taurus in '01, I had only leased cars.
    Here is the repairs that I have had since the car rolled off the lot, minus battery / tires / routine maintenance:
    date odometer repair
    6/10/2005 60306 Transaxle Seals
    8/7/2006 79919 Transmission clogged
    2/6/2007 89649 front stabilizers, struts, coils
    2/6/2007 89642 rear break service, washer service, stabilizers
    4/4/2007 94999 tie rod, ball bearings
    4/10/2007 95288 front spring coils (recall)
    10/22/2007110142 rear drums replaced
    5/29/2008 124963 Serpentine belt, upper and lower hoses replaced
    7/17/2008 129900 new front struts (does not include new tire)

    A few obvious things -
    - I drive a car, I don't know how to fix it.
    - Either a dealership or a Goodyear Gemini Car care facility have touched it.
    - Lots of highway driving - probably 85% of the miles are highway....
    - Odo currently reads 129931.
    - OEM parts still in place include alternator, starter, and fuel pump

    My questions:
    - is this "typical" wear and tear?
    - Since end of warranty, almost $3,700 was spent on repairs (not maintenance, such as oil changes, tire rotations, etc.). All of these repairs, except for the clogged transmission, were "pre-emptive" where the tech strong suggested that this be addressed. This seems high, but I do not know...

    For what it is worth, I have never had the car break down because the maintenance has been steady, and the repairs were done to prevent a failure that would halt the car.

    Thanks for your thoughts!

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Sounds about right for a domestic car, not out of line at all for that mileage. If you want double the dependability, pay nearly double the price, and get a Camry - you'll spend about the same because the parts are more, but less will need to be replaced in the same amount of mileage.

    Breaks, BTW are spelled Brakes. ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,375
    I'd agree. Those repairs sound about right for the mileage. Some people might tell you that they didn't have to do those things, but often those people just drive around with weak struts, leaking seals,etc. and don't even notice, or care. I couldn't tell you all the "great running used cars" I see where I can add up $2000 in repairs without even getting dirty looking around.

    Sounds like you give your car what it needs, and it costs something to keep a car in top notch running condition. Deferred maintenance would have allowed you to extend some of those repairs, like the seals, the struts, stabilizers, shocks, belts, etc., but then you'd have one of those cars that is in the wrecking yard at 125,000.

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  • fordblue1fordblue1 Posts: 1
    3.0 Bank 2 Sensor 2 Where is it?
  • 94 ford taurus my temp gauge is not showing the car hot but it smokes and i smell it. there are times that the car wont start. i give it some time and retry to start it and it starts. it is beginning to run bad. any advice?
  • phillyjoephillyjoe Posts: 1
    '98 Sable LS 104,000 miles. Icy cold a/c until yesterday. Washed, waxed and vacuumed as the car is for sale locally. Young couple stops by to look and takes a test drive. They like the car but wonder why the a/c doesn't come out the dash vents. Impossible, I say. My daughter has been driving this car for the last 4 years to school and if the a/c wasn't working, I would have known. Sure enough, no matter what I do, the cold air comes out the floor and windshield, but no dash. Daughter confirms it was coming out the dash Friday. Did I knock something loose vacuuming? These things are run by a vacuum line and some kind of diverter flap? They really want the car and I would like to fix this as I told them everything worked. I don't want to take this to the dealer for this if I can. Any ideas?
  • rmplayerrmplayer Posts: 3
    I have a 94 taurus wagon that runs well on cold startup with reasonable power on acceleration. However when the engine temperature gauge has reached normal operating temperature after three or four blocks, the problem will be lack of power and an inability to accelerate into traffic from a stop lite. It feels like I am trying to start in second or third gear. What do you believe to be the cause?
  • rmplayerrmplayer Posts: 3
    the owners manual suggests Mercon with a postscript 'R'
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You have a blend door stuck somewhere in there, but the fix isn't easy. You can try pounding on things under there and see if it frees up - but more than likely, the acuator has failed, and is not moving the door, OR, the vacuum line, as you said, has come loose. Probably nothing you did, these things happen randomly, but more often as a car ages. Worst case, the dash has to come out to fix it.
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