Ford Expedition Air Conditioning Questions
i've got an 02 eddie bauer. this weekend i began to notice a smell coming from the a/c when you first turn it on. it also takes longer for the system to get to an acceptable cool temp. definitely different than normal.
i go to walmart and buy a canister of refrigerent with attached gauge connector hose and i can't find the port to connect the connector to. i have a jeep wrangler and readily found the correct port on it but all i see on the ford is the "upper" a/c port. the canister says to look for the "lower" port.
can someone tell me where this "lower" port is?
i go to walmart and buy a canister of refrigerent with attached gauge connector hose and i can't find the port to connect the connector to. i have a jeep wrangler and readily found the correct port on it but all i see on the ford is the "upper" a/c port. the canister says to look for the "lower" port.
can someone tell me where this "lower" port is?
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Need assistance, looking for the electrical diagram for a 2001 Expedition, XLT Sport Edition. Took the truck 3 months ago to get the oil changed, all of the sudden the rear a/c stopped blowing cold air. A week ago I did my own oil change and noticed a loose connector underneath and I am asking myself if this has to do something with the A/C situation. This connector is nearby the drain plug. Looking for the diagram in order to troubleshoot it.
Thanks,
kastroj
I have a noise with my rear air in my 02 Explorer. It sounds like a pump or something pulsating. Its a constant click, click, click. The engine does not have to be on, just the ignition. The rear air still blows cold. I pulled the panel off in the rear and it feels like its coming from a clear colored part behind the air unit. I unplugged the rear air to get rid of the annoying noise. When it started it would continue for about 30 minutes and then go away. Now it does not go away.
If anyone has any idea's on what this might be, I'd love to hear them.
Thanks.
jminier
Or check out the more generic Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars discussion.
Steve, Host
You'll need part number #YL5Z-19E616-AA costs $86.06 + tax.
It is the unit described by jminier in his reply.
The box snaps apart by 2 plastic molded clips on each of the 4 sides.
The gears had teeth that were indeed broken. I did some more investigation as to why this happened. The box is a simple DC motor / gear assembly with a wiper resistance pot to feed back position. The cars controller does not have the correct set points for the stopping points. This problem drives the motor even when the mechanical stop (flap is fully open or closed) is reached. This continued pressure strips the gears and causes the clacking noise.
We all need for FORD to better engineer their vehicles so this does not happen. :mad:
I have not dug into the controller to see if the end points can be adjusted to turn off the motor at the end points.
Let us all know if someone does this work.
Hope this helps (it is not cheep)
The front on the other hand is a pain in the you know what. I replaced the heater core in that. You literally have to take out the whole center console along with the whole dash board and everything in tact. After replacing and getting everything back together, I still had no heat. That is when I heard the "blend doors" go bad 95% of the time you have ac/heat problems. So for a temp fix, I drilled a small hole behind the glove box, into the left side of the housing for the heater core, and used a screw driver to pry open the blend door till warmer wheather comes and I can rip the dash out again to repair. Good Luck!
The front is a whole different story
Thanks. :confuse:
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Your problem is in the vaccum line that runs from the firewall to the ari mixture controls behind the dash. More than likely its in the hose under the hood at the firewall. You can just cut and replace it there. Inspect the line good and see if you can find any cracks. It just takes a small crack for this to happen. It is located between the battery and the firewall. It is a very small "spaghetti" tube. Hope this helps!
Plus the A/C seems to take a long time to get cold. Haven't brought it in yet, but just wondering if anyone else has had the same problem, or might know what is causing it. Of course when I go in, the dealership will probably give me the old "well we can't replicate the problem" routine, so I know I'm going to be frustrated as usual. Please help !!
Thanks.
my AC was working, occasionally. Then I noticed that my cold-hot gauge would drop to "c". When this would happen the air compressor would shut down and then the AC wouldn't blow out cold air. Then, for whatever reason, the gauge would be reading correctly and the air would resume. This eventually got to be where the guage wouldn't read at all then there was no cool air. I took this to the dealer and a local mechanic. Both said there was no correlation, but still no solution to the problem. THe local mechanic has replaced every thermostat that might be related, the accuator, flushed (or whatever) to the vacuum, but still no cold air, nor does the hot-cold guage work. The dealer has never seen this problem. Any suggestions?
,
Thanks!
Jim